natterjack

Problem with using Imperial Western 1/120?

Good thoughts, as might be electrically conductive couplings that could extend the available space for batteries (there is a commercial example available from PEHO in Germany for TT120/N Gauge size NEM pockets).

Depends on size and N Gauge (not 2mm FS) wheels or tyres are an alternative source for the smaller drive wheel diameters.

For those having trouble with scale conversions and working in a CAD drawing programme, just draw the thing full size in your datum measurements and, when satisfied, draw an easily convertible box around the whole thing and change the scale in one go. All done with only one calculation. You might then have to sort out practicable clearances, material thicknesses etc but that is another matter.

If these are independent of the directional running lights then maybe magnetic reed switches could be used, operated by a 'magic wand' or by suitably placed magnets alongside the track.

While this thread is active, does anyone have a clear photo of the tender side frame fuel and water cocks? I'm in the throes of scratch building a TT120 GT3.

I think some people imagine it is the axle end point that provides the 'bearing contact' whereas it should be the angular interaction of the cone and cup/hole edge- hence no surprise your solution has worked. and well done for pointing it out.

I stand corrected; 'Liquid Lead' is still sold by DCC. And I thought actual lead shot was a thing of the past.

I'm looking forward to seeing all the shunting planks with a front coupler fitted Duchess.

Depends upon the circumstances.

We seem to be using some potentially confusing terms and I don't know of any liquid lead that isn't molten and rather hot. 'Liquid Gravity' as sold by Deluxe is, I think, some form of manganese shot (probably manganese steel as used by the fishing fraternity). As such it should be rather dense but most applications I have found it to be less so than solid steel (in fact around half as dense- must have something to do with so much air between the balls).

There is a handy database for dating the various Farish loco model numbers; https://www.modelraildatabase.com/grahamfarish/locomotives/

I have mentioned this elsewhere but the thing about 3D printing is that, in our terms, it is in essence a domestic or cottage based industry- so the chances are that you can find somebody local to work with to get the results you are seeking at considerably lower costs than the likes of Shapeways Moreover, you develop personal collaborations to enhance future projects.

When we can print at 0.1mm thickness with 0.05mm surface detail and fully developed curvature I'll concede brass has lost much of its role. Meanwhile, Worsley Works provide aids rather than kits with much to be sourced or made by the modeller, a situation not helped by the recent closure of N Brass Locos.

One has to remember many, even most, of the older kits were made pre-CAD and thus offer little comparison to what be generated today from a desk-top.