pre assembled motor gearbox combination

[Londontram]

      I'm looking for a small motor gearbox combination for a small 00 scale 0-4-4 sized tank loco so length and width is not to much of an issue but height might be.

 

     Does anyone make or supply one all ready assembled that takes standard Markits (Romford) axles. I don't want the hassle of folding up etches with all the fears that gears wont mesh or things like that I just want an off the peg ready to fit and go option.

 

    Any one got any suggestions of whats out there and the best place to get one?

 

    Thanks Steve

[Gordon A]

Pre - assmbled a Portescap gearbox with a coreless motor.

 

However I would highly reccomend a High Level etched gearbox. They are easey to fold up and fit.

Their are also a variety of ratios and differing shapes of gearbox to fit a variety of locos.

The gearboxes are designed to work with Mashima motors.

 

Gordon A

[bike2steam]

However I would highly reccomend a High Level etched gearbox. .

 

Gordon A

Agree, although I've used Mitsumi motors that are the equivalent to the Mashima 1224, as supplied by John Isherwood. High Level gearboxes are the first I've used where I haven't had to 'pack' to get perfect meshing. 

[ColinK]

I'm looking for a small motor gearbox combination for a small 00 scale 0-4-4 sized tank loco so length and width is not to much of an issue but height might be.

 

     Does anyone make or supply one all ready assembled that takes standard Markits (Romford) axles. I don't want the hassle of folding up etches with all the fears that gears wont mesh or things like that I just want an off the peg ready to fit and go option.

 

    Any one got any suggestions of whats out there and the best place to get one?

 

    Thanks Steve

Good question. Folding up gearboxes puts me off too.

[PaulR]

      I'm looking for a small motor gearbox combination for a small 00 scale 0-4-4 sized tank loco so length and width is not to much of an issue but height might be.

 

     Does anyone make or supply one all ready assembled that takes standard Markits (Romford) axles. I don't want the hassle of folding up etches with all the fears that gears wont mesh or things like that I just want an off the peg ready to fit and go option.

 

    Any one got any suggestions of whats out there and the best place to get one?

 

    Thanks Steve

Try North Yard gearboxes. Branchlines supply them

[polybear]

DJH pre-assembled motor/gearbox combinations are pretty good by all accounts, though I've never tried them myself

[billbedford]

The problem with having pre-assembled gearboxes is that you need to be able to test run the frames without the worm engaged. So at the very least it is a very good idea to have a final drive gear with a grub screw.

[DCB]

It wants something like the fold up boxes but with side frames which screw in place as some of us cannot fold etches up square.  

[bike2steam]

It wants something like the fold up boxes but with side frames which screw in place as some of us cannot fold etches up square.

Sorry, but I find that hard to believe when they have etched fold lines, just bend with the aid of a small engineers square.

[Earlswood Nob]

Good morning everyone

 

I have found that High Level gearboxes are the easiest to make. I use a small pair of pliers to initially fold the gearbox and check the bend with a a engineers square. 

 

One can thread the 2mm through the intermediate gear holes to confirm the correct bending.

 

After building a few, it becomes easier, and one can choose the order to fit the gearwheels for even easier construction.

 

The end result is worth the small effort. A Mashima motor fitted to a High Level gearbox will give a smooth performance equal to, if not exceeding a Portescap. There is none of the whine that one gets with a worn Portescap gearbox.

 

I only have three R-T-R locos (LNER O4, J72, J39), and a loco fitted with the Mashima/High level combination runs smother than all of them.

 

I prefer the gearboxes with grub screw fixing, but it is easy to fit those gears needing Loctite fixing, if one leaves the fixing till the last possible moment.

 

Earlswood nob

 

PS I have no connection with High Level other than that of a very satisfied customer.

[bike2steam]

I agree with the above, but am not a fan of Loctite fixing final gear to the drive axle, I prefer 'keying-in' as a positive fix, a bit fiddly but much better. In the past I've had Loctite fixing come lose at shows - arghhh. It's also better for re-work adjustments on the motor/gearbox - if needed.

[ian@stenochs]

Hi

 

Slaters do a small motor/gearbox for 1/8" axles. Looks very robust and if it's like their Bigger gearboxes very well made.

Link here

 

https://slatersplastikard.com/linePage.php?code=SG4

 

Ian

[bike2steam]

Look at that price - phew. I've just re-worked three of my old ex Airfix 4F's that I converted to loco dive years ago with DS10 motors. With motors supplied by John Isherwood, and gearboxes from High Level, total cost a quarter of that Slaters offering, and they work superb.

[Gordon A]

I agree that it can be a bit daunting folding your first gearbox.

This is where it is useful to belong to a group or have a modelling friend to guide you..

As has been suggested an engineers square is a very useful tool to check if your folds are 90 degrees.

All the fold lines are half etched which makes it easier to fold. The half etch goes on the inside of the fold.

Chris's instructions contain a good exploded diagram and are easy to follow.

 

If you do mess up folding a gearbox I am sure Chris will sell you another etch on its own without any gears or rod,

 

The intermediate gears free wheel on their axles, only the worm and the final drive gears are fixed.

 

Safe to say I am a very satisfied customer.

 

Gordon A

[5050]

I agree with the above, but am not a fan of Loctite fixing final gear to the drive axle, I prefer 'keying-in' as a positive fix, a bit fiddly but much better. In the past I've had Loctite fixing come lose at shows - arghhh. It's also better for re-work adjustments on the motor/gearbox - if needed.

Could you explain your 'keying-in' procedure please?  I've modified the grub-screw versions by drilling the axle and fitting a short length of studding and have considered a similar idea for the Loctite ones but space is very tight.

 

Like Gordon, I would suggest to the OP that he looks at Chris's range.  The smaller HL boxes have fewer 'sets' of gears and are very simple to build - and you can remove the motor for testing the chassis while building.

[bike2steam]

Could you explain your 'keying-in' procedure please?  I've modified the grub-screw versions by drilling the axle and fitting a short length of studding and have considered a similar idea for the Loctite ones but space is very tight.

Similar yes, drill, and tap a 10BA hole, for a cheese-head machine screw( preferably steel), thro' the driving axle in the same position as where the axle gear wheel will go. Do the screw head up tight to the axle, clean off the excess of the screw that protrudes on the other side of the axle. File the head so it has four flats, parallel, and 90 degrees to the axle, the parallel flats are 2mm across, the 90 degree flats about the width of the gear wheel. File a recess in the gear wheel a close running fit to suit the filed screw-head.

Why 2mm? I hear you say,- well it's because I have a set of small diamond files, one of which is a 2mm square. :-)

I first used this idea on a Model Yard loco-drive conversion of a tender-drive Hornby 9F ( in the days before Bachmann 9F's), where the Loctite failed while hauling a 100 wagon freight at an exhibition. I've since used the idea, successfully, on about a dozen other locos since. One of it's advantages is you can strip down a loco-drive quickly without having to break a seal.

[5050]

Similar yes, drill, and tap a 10BA hole, for a cheese-head machine screw( preferably steel), thro' the driving axle in the same position as where the axle gear wheel will go. Do the screw head up tight to the axle, clean off the excess of the screw that protrudes on the other side of the axle. File the head so it has four flats, parallel, and 90 degrees to the axle, the parallel flats are 2mm across, the 90 degree flats about the width of the gear wheel. File a recess in the gear wheel a close running fit to suit the filed screw-head.

Why 2mm? I hear you say,- well it's because I have a set of small diamond files, one of which is a 2mm square. :-)

I first used this idea on a Model Yard loco-drive conversion of a tender-drive Hornby 9F ( in the days before Bachmann 9F's), where the Loctite failed while hauling a 100 wagon freight at an exhibition. I've since used the idea, successfully, on about a dozen other locos since. One of it's advantages is you can strip down a loco-drive quickly without having to break a seal.

Right, I see, thanks.  Better than trying to drill through the gear wheel and into the axle with a wire 'retainer'.  The gear wheel is still loose on the axle then, held in alignment by the close proximity of the last reduction gear and the washer/bush on the other side?

 

Apologies for hi-jacking your thread somewhat but this could be of general interest.

[bike2steam]

The gear wheel is still loose on the axle then, held in alignment by the close proximity of the last reduction gear and the washer/bush on the other side?

That's correct, especially if you use the High Level 'Roadrunner' gearbox, that leaves you less than 1mm play either side of centre, so it's retained without using washers to pack up the play, although it's advisable not to have one gear rubbing the side of another, but with one like the 'Load-Hauler' I put a 1mm spacer either side.

[Earlswood Nob]

Good morning all

 

Thanks bike2steam for the tip.

 

I have never used the standard Roadrunner, I tend to use Roadrunner plus. I have one loco fitted with a Loadhauler (J50, I think), and I have a few with the Humpshunter (J71, J72, Y7, Y8). 

 

My locos only get light use so I've had no trouble with the final drive gear coming loose.

 

I will carry out a few experiments, to see if I can drill and tap a 10BA hole in an axle. 

 

Earlswood nob

[bike2steam]

Good morning all

 

Thanks bike2steam for the tip.

 

I have never used the standard Roadrunner, I tend to use Roadrunner plus. I have one loco fitted with a Loadhauler (J50, I think), and I have a few with the Humpshunter (J71, J72, Y7, Y8). 

 

My locos only get light use so I've had no trouble with the final drive gear coming loose.

 

I will carry out a few experiments, to see if I can drill and tap a 10BA hole in an axle. 

 

Earlswood nob

Just a few tips, before drilling, or trying to drill, file a small flat on the axle where the hole will go, it'll help you to spot the position correctly.

If you check the width of the intermediate gear where it meshes with the driving axle gear wheel, it's only 4mm wide, therefore the total width of the driving axle gear plus the width of the head of the keying screw (plus a spacing shim between) must not exceed that 4mm.

Of course the keying screw must be removed to assemble, then replaced once the gear-box is in the loco chassis, the axle is in place with its gear wheel - there should be just enough room to replace the keying screw, and the gear wheel is then just 'encouraged' into place, once the wheels are fitted there shouldn't be more than 1mm movement either way for the gearwheel - well for a 'Roadrunner' anyway, for the 'Loadhauler, which has 2mm wider room on the axle, add 1mm thick washers either side of the axle gear. A fiddly job, but well worth it.

[Earlswood Nob]

G'day all

 

Thanks again for the tips bike2steam.

 

On checking the Humpshunter, it is the same width as the Loadhauler. 

 

I'm glad somebody else finds it fiddly to fit spacing washers, as I was begining to wonder if it was due to my fingers getting old.

 

Earlswood nob

[DCB]

The Slaters SG4 box looks great with screwed sideplates but is way out of my price range, is it bevel prmary drive?

I have been drilling and tapping axles 10 ba for years as Romford worm wheels tend to run unevenly when secured by a single grub screw.

My present thoughts involve a scalextric crown wheel and pinion at the motor end and spur gears  in home made brass sideframes so the drive train is reversible unlike a worm drive.

[Horsetan]

The Slaters SG4 box looks great with screwed sideplates but is way out of my price range, is it bevel primary drive?...

Slaters SG4 relies on crossed helicals. At about £73, the price is close to what many people end up paying for a Portescap RG4 on eBay anyway.

 

 

.... present thoughts involve a scalextric crown wheel and pinion at the motor end and spur gears in home made brass sideframes so the drive train is reversible unlike a worm drive.

That's one possibility, though the Ultrascale crown and pinion set is a bit more substantial.

 

Have you tried these bevel sets?

[bike2steam]

 Romford worm wheels tend to run unevenly when secured by a single grub screw.

 

Not if you file a small flat on the motor shaft or axle where the grub screw goes.

[5050]

Just a few tips, before drilling, or trying to drill, file a small flat on the axle where the hole will go, it'll help you to spot the position correctly.

If you check the width of the intermediate gear where it meshes with the driving axle gear wheel, it's only 4mm wide, therefore the total width of the driving axle gear plus the width of the head of the keying screw (plus a spacing shim between) must not exceed that 4mm.

Of course the keying screw must be removed to assemble, then replaced once the gear-box is in the loco chassis, the axle is in place with its gear wheel - there should be just enough room to replace the keying screw, and the gear wheel is then just 'encouraged' into place, once the wheels are fitted there shouldn't be more than 1mm movement either way for the gearwheel - well for a 'Roadrunner' anyway, for the 'Loadhauler, which has 2mm wider room on the axle, add 1mm thick washers either side of the axle gear. A fiddly job, but well worth it.

I did it yesterday and it (hopefully) will work fine.  To assemble the driven axle/gearwheel/screw assembly in place I removed the top gear shaft which allowed the centre gear wheel to slide to one side so leaving sufficient room  to fit the screw into its axle hole and then slide it into the gear.  Refitting the top gear then holds everything in place.  I use nail varnish to secure one end of the intermediate gear shafts so it is quite easy to remove.

 

Strangely, the Gibson axle I am using seems to be slightly overlength so I will have to disassemble it all to turn the axle down slightly before putting it all back together and fitting the wheels - remembering to remove it from the end furthest away from the gearwheel.  I took some photos of work in progress and will be posting them on my 'Kingdom Kit' build in the Standard Gauge Industrial section soon.