The Longsight Patriot

[david.hill64]

With Hyperion safely dispatched for painting, it's time to get on with the next project. A Gladiator Rebuilt Patriot. It will be 45530 Sir Frank Ree.

 

 

I am going to use this opportunity to photograph the build and add these to the instructions.

 

First job was to look at the workbench containing the detritus from the last build and gather the energy necessary to clear it!

 

 

OK, looking better now:

 

 

I will be starting on the tender first. The loco's etched coupling rods and motion will be replaced with Premier milled items which I hope to pick up at Telford.

 

I have just finished packing a couple of these kits (including yours Sandy!) so it will be interesting to check that this box contains the same bits!

 

We have nickel silver etches:

 

 

Brass etches:

 

 

 

Whitemetal, brass and nickel silver castngs:

 

 

Wheels are Slaters, motor/gearbox from ABC sown with the pre-rolled boiler.

 

 

The first thing I noticed is that there is a strip of split pin replacements that I hadn't packed. These must be for the ejector pipe. I had better ask Mrs Gladiator to put some in the boxes. I guess that I should have added these to the Royal Scot kits that have already gone out (and probably others too).

 

The second thing I noticed is that for some of the brass castings only the required parts have been supplied. Nothing wrong with that of course, but unto now I have been packing complete casting sets including bits that will be left over. Note to self: update kitting list!

 

I hope to make a start on this later, but I need to rebuild the PC first (easier than working on the laptop).

Edited August 6, 2016 by david.hill64

[david.hill64]

Off we go then!

 

First job was to sort out the wheels. Unfortunately some of these came with a generous helping of rust, requiring attention from scalpel, emery paper and emery cloth to clean up. Unusually the tender wheels also required plastic flash removal from the spokes. The backs of the wheels were run across emery paper on a flat surface and the burrs removed form the axle ends and wheel centres. With that done the tyres were chemically blackened.

 

 

Next I started the tender bogie. The centre axle will float so the half-etched sections were filed out.

 

 

Frame spacers were folded and soldered in place as per the instructions.

 

 

The outer axle bearings were soldered in place and the assembly tacked together and checked for squareness.

 

 

All being well the joints were properly soldered. The centre axle bearings were filed flat to provide an easy location for the drill to start and a 0.7mm hole drilled in to take a piece of nickel silver wire that stops the bearings rotating but allows them vertical movement.

 

 

 

The tops of the wire are bent over.

 

 

The drawbar retaining nut was fixed and the drawbar bracket folded up.

 

 

Wheels and axles were fitted to check that all is well.

 

 

The instructions say to add lengths of 0.9mm wire as hangers for the brake blocks, but I have used some 1mm tube. The brake blocks will have short wires attached so that the brake assembly can be removed from the frames to allow the wheels to be removed. I also fitted the guard irons and water scoop top half. (Note to self: the assembly diagram has this part incorrectly numbered).

 

 

The instructions say to form the joint for the scoop operating arm with wire, but a rivet is much better.

 

 

The arm and scoop lower were then added.

 

 

The assembly was then cleaned ready for painting, but I'll do the brakes next and paint them at the same time.

 

Checking through the tender castings I found that one of the axlebox / spring assemblies has broken, so I have sent a distress call to Mrs Gladiator asking for a replacement to be sent. I could have repaired the broken one, but why bother?

 

All straightforward so far: very similar construction to Hyperion.

[N15class]

Looks as though it will be a straight forward build.  It must be fun knowing what to put in or leave out of a kit. As every one has different ideas. I know some who only like the bits to build their loco, I on the other hand love lots of spare parts. But then I do take on some right disaster cases, which would be better bin fodder.

 

I will be following with interest as I have one of its family to build next a Jubilee from the Oakville range. My first larger LMS loco.

[Sandy Harper]

Hi David

Don't know if you have these but could be of interest to others.

Sandy

 

 

 

[david.hill64]

Looks as though it will be a straight forward build.  It must be fun knowing what to put in or leave out of a kit. As every one has different ideas. I know some who only like the bits to build their loco, I on the other hand love lots of spare parts. But then I do take on some right disaster cases, which would be better bin fodder.

 

I will be following with interest as I have one of its family to build next a Jubilee from the Oakville range. My first larger LMS loco.

I hope that it will be straightforward - no reason for it not to be.

 

The discussion on what extras to add to a kit is interesting. I have a view that kits should contain everything needed (bar wheels and motor) to allow a good representation of the vehicle depicted without having to resort to additional parts. Now I know this opens me up to all sorts of potential criticism (did you know that your XXX kit has the wrong pattern lubricators etc) but when you pay good money for a kit it ought to be buildable by someone with reasonable skill level and look the part at the end of the day without having to buy extra bits. People may well want to add additional details, add compensation or springing, or as is the case with this build use milled rods rather than laminated etches, but these should be optional. There is clearly a balance to be struck between cost and detail. I think JLTRT has a good idea in making detailing packs available and perhaps something to look at in the future. Geoff did a good job in updating and improving the kits and we will carry on that tradition. For me it's still going to be another year I think before I understand what Mrs Gladiator and I have taken on! I have to say that trying to ensure that the correct bits go in the box is not as simple as it sounds, so I have tried to err on the safe side by putting in complete casting sets when only parts were required.

 

No updates with 45530 today as I spent yesterday evening watching Jason Bourne. With my film critic hat on I would note that working on the loco would have been a much more satisfying experience.

[whiteknight024]

Love the pictures of the loco it did spend quite a period of time at Longsight between 1948 - 59 and had a further brief stint there between June 1959 and September 1960. She moved around a fair bit after that until withdrawal in 1965 at Kingmoor. Sp a much travelled lady.

[david.hill64]

My goodness: half way down page 2 again shows I am not posting enough!

 

I decided to add some springing to the centre axle - thanks to Jazz for reminding me. Some nickel silver wire does teh trick.

 

 

The brake blocks were laminated together and small lengths of 0.5mm wire added to form the attachments.

 

 

These were then fitted and the pull rods soldered in place. The instructions are a bit silent about the operating cranks that hang from the brake shaft, but it is reasonably obvious to use a length of 1.6mm rod to form the shaft. Small length of 1.6mm tube are soldered to teh cranks but not to the pull rod assembly.

 

 

 

This means that the brakes can be removed.

 

 

So the tender bogie is complete and ready for the paint shop.

 

Work has started on the body. The base was cut out, cleaned up and rivets embossed.

 

The tank support were then formed and added.

 

 

 

 

 

[david.hill64]

I have been having problems driving my new camera lens so not too many shots.

 

Tender bod assembly is ongoing. I spent a long time fettling the bottom of the rear panel to get it to sit correctly. Being multi-etched the etching cusps are present on the rivetted panels above the locating slots and it took a while to get it in place. Much effort has been taken to ensure that all is square.

 

 

 

 

 

[david.hill64]

More luck with the camera today, so more photos.

 

The two halves of the front top plate were sweated together and the coal door casing formed and joined.

 

 

This was followed by the horizontal plates.

 

 

The next instruction caused a lot of head scratching to ensure that I had interpreted it correctly as it requires the door casing to be cut back. On reflection I realised that the design must have been done this way for ease of assembly and as a spare door casing is included in the kit if I was wrong, then there would be no great consequence if I was wrong. So out came the saw and file.

 

 

Adding the front plate required some work. There are etched rebates on the rear of the plate to fit to the horizontal plates and door casing, but the ones for the horizontal plates did not go all the way across (probably for strength) so I cut them with a file.

 

 

I also found that I had to adjust the rebate at the top a little, but with that done the plate was fitted.

 

 

The coal chute and coal door were soldered in place.

 

 

To complete this sub-assembly I must add the toolbox and detailing rivet strips around the door casing.

[david.hill64]

Tonight I am Mr Happy-Chappy! It has been one of those satisfying evenings at the workbench when jobs that you approach with some trepidation turn out OK.

 

I completed the front plate by adding the toolbox and rivet strips.

 

 

The coal hopper was formed and soldered.

 

 

The front plate was tacked into place and a trial fit made of the hopper. I found that it needed quite a bit of material removing on the front left hand side where it has to follow the angles of the front plate.

 

 

When I was happy that was OK the front plate was fully soldered into place.

 

 

Followed by the coal hopper.

 

 

Next was the part that always gives me the heebie-jeebies: forming the tender raves. I annealed the sides with the kitchen creme brulee flamer paying particular attention to the part where the bends would be formed. I then offered the cleaned up side to the body and marked for and aft where the curve should start. These two point were joined and a check made to be sure that the resultant line was the same distance from the bottom of the sides along its length. I then used a length of small diameter (probably about 3mm) silver steel rod, my bending bars and holdfast. 

 

The tender side was clamped into the bending bars with the steel rod on the marked line and then the holdfast used to support the top of the sides along there whole length so the bend could be formed.

 

 

 

The result was pleasing.

 

 

 

The front turn-ins were then formed in the same way.

 

 

 

Repeated for the other side.

 

At this point I decided that it was a good point to stop, but holding the sides on with the rubber band gives a good idea of what it will look like.

 

 

 

At this point a glass of wine may well be in order.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[david.hill64]

Just one photo today. The sides are now attached, and the origami exercise (otherwise known as the fire iron tunnel) has been added. The instructions warn that some filling will be required: this has yet to be done at the rear.

 

 

I am now cleaning up the parts for the next session. There are some detailing parts to add to the top of the tank behind the rear plate, and then onto the frames.

[dibateg]

The fire iron tunnel on these LMS tenders can often be tricky... coming on nicely.

Tony

[david.hill64]

Quite a lot done today. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Sandy Harper]

Nice David. Are you going to have a problem with the fitting of the buffers now that the outer frames are soldered in place over the buffer holes in the rear beam? Or do you have a 'cunning plan?

 

Sandy

[david.hill64]

Nice David. Are you going to have a problem with the fitting of the buffers now that the outer frames are soldered in place over the buffer holes in the rear beam? Or do you have a 'cunning plan?

 

Sandy

A cunning plan!

 

The provided buffers are nice cast brass sprung ones, but this build will use the MOK self contained type.

[Stevelewis]

Love the pictures of the loco it did spend quite a period of time at Longsight between 1948 - 59 and had a further brief stint there between June 1959 and September 1960. She moved around a fair bit after that until withdrawal in 1965 at Kingmoor. Sp a much travelled lady.

 

I used  to  see    the  loco  often we  lived  in  Levenshulme  and  my  first  school (Alma Park)   was  right  by  the Manchester  Crewe  line  which   ran  on  an  embankment  adjacent  to  the  miniscule  school playing  field,  If  only  we  had the luxury of  cameras  in  those  days,

[Sandy Harper]

A cunning plan!

 

The provided buffers are nice cast brass sprung ones, but this build will use the MOK self contained type.

Ooooh! Nice

[david.hill64]

No time for commentary today, but now complete bar buffers (to be fitted later, frame braces (may not be fitted at all), filling (especially the fireiron tunnel) and final clean up and paint. Quite a lot left after all!

 

 

 

 

Edited August 21, 2016 by david.hill64

[Norton961]

Nice to see the book on the Re Built Class 7s (Crowood Press) being used for what I intended, helping people built accurate models. The publisher did me no favours by not reproducing some of the photos in a larger size but its to late now.

Thought a couple of photos of the prototype would be usefull. Taken at Bath Green Park 5-1964.

Edited August 26, 2016 by Norton961

[Norton961]

Another photo of Sir Frank Ree. Chalk Farm 1963..

 

 

St Rollox 1965.

 

 

 

 

[david.hill64]

Wow! Page 4 so no update for a long time.

 

Unfortunately the tender got some minor damage on its outing to Telford - nothing that cannot be completely repaired. I picked up the MOK self contained buffers. Almost as soon as I got back to Bangkok I have had to fly back to Europe on business so no progress to report. Mind you, I am so jet lagged that I should not be allowed anywhere near the workbench.

[whiteknight024]

Hi David

 

What's the latest on the project? I hope that you have recovered from the rigours of Guildex?

 

Take Care

 

Iain

[david.hill64]

Hi David

 

What's the latest on the project? I hope that you have recovered from the rigours of Guildex?

 

Take Care

 

Iain

Just got back to Bangkok yesterday after two weeks away on business. Next job is to get de-jet-lagged and then I'll be back at the workbench.

[david.hill64]

So the jet lag has been put back in the wardrobe for a few weeks and last night I had a welcome return to the workbench.

 

Unfortunately the welcome was not as happy as I had hoped. I had taken the tender to Telford to show progress and as it is a Gladiator product to show the company wares. I had packed it in my checked luggage and on arrival home noticed it was loose in its box in the case. I didn't think too much at the time and assumed that I had not packed it properly, but on reflection I wonder whether it had been unpacked by security at Bangkok and not repackaged correctly - it might have shown up as a suspicious metallic lump in the case when x-rayed. I had noticed that a step was bent - easily recoverable. When OzzyO looked at it he turned it over and found a stiff axle. At the time I thought that it was probably me not having cleaned out the axle bearings properly after cleaning, but last night it became apparent that the tender bogie which had been held in place by a screw at one end only had become slightly bent. So teh tender had obviously received quite a knock in its journey.

 

So last night was spent recovering the situation. The bogie is square again now and the steps realigned. But it is always disheartening to have to re-do things. This weekend I'll finish cleaning up the tender and will get a coat of primer on to protect it. Then I'll start on the loco.

 

Memo to self: hand luggage next time.

[david.hill64]

Cleaning up of the tender continues. I had hoped to finish that over the weekend but a call to the office severely reduced the time available.

 

The frames were cut out and drilled/reamed for the pick ups. sorry about the photo quality.

 

 

The the spring overlays were laminated and the bearings added. I normally don't fix the bearings until the chassis is soldered, but I figure that as this is a David Andrews design it is going to be right.

 

 

It's good to be back at the bench!