Flashing on the roof

[gwrrob]

The question says it all really.I'm building a station building and detailing the roof and chimneys.

[Guest stuartp]

I use thin strips cut from a sticky paper label, or just grey paint depending on how prominent it was on the prototype.

[steve1]

The metal foil sealing from a bottle of wine when rolled out flat can work very well.

 

There's the added bonus of having to drink the wine... B)

 

steve

[meple]

The one thing to remember is that the flashing goes under the tiles/slates, not over as is often modelled.

[Pinkmouse]

I use strips cut from a roll of aluminum glazing tape. Self adhesive and forms into shape well, but needs a little weathering down.

 

[2ManySpams]

very thin plasticard and loads of mekpac. Or sticky labels. Depends on what the base material is.

[Roddy Angus]

[The one thing to remember is that the flashing goes under the tiles/slates, not over as is often modelled]

 

Flashing will always be laid so that any water running down it will run onto the top surface of the material below it. If the flashing was under the top surface then it would feed the moisture under the slates/tiles etc and into the sarking. If the flashing is on the roof ridge that it will be on top of the roofing material, if it is at the top of an opening then it will start under the roofing material and end on the top. Think how the water will run over the top surface of any material and that is how the flashing will be laid.

 

Roddy

[John_Hughes]

First buy and eat a Kit-Kat (they're Fair Trade these days too!), then cut the packaging into strips and use the inside, which is unprinted foil; nice and thin and doesn't need straightening first.

[Andy C]

Because flashing is very fine, I use strips cut from Rizzla's (fag papers for the uninitiated - no questions please), which is MEK'ed onto the platicard, then painted lead grey.

[iL Dottore]

Some interesting versions of applying 4mm flashing which I'm looking forward to ttrying out (with perhaps with the exception of the Rizlas ). Until now, my preferred method has been to lay some DIY marking tape (it's paper and comes in different widths) onto a well degreased sheet of glass (to help keep the tape's stickiness) then painted grey and then cut into fine strips with a fresh knifeblade, lifted off the glass using the tip of a knife blade and then applied.

 

There is one drawback I've noted when applying flashing (probably no matter what the method) - what looks acceptable to the naked eye can often end up being too wide when the result is photographed and seen under magnification. I've had to redo too wide flashing on quite a few occasions!

[Captain Kernow]

I also use Rizla paper, which I cut to shape and paint before glueing to the roof.

 

Remember that lead flashing is often let into the brickwork of any adjacent chimneys, giving rise to a characteristic 'zig-zag' shape...

 

The 'zig-zag' is just about visible on the attached photo:

[Dr.Glum]

And don't forget that if you are considering making them out of paper, Scalescenes have (in Scratchbuilders Yard) product TX00b (price £1.99) samples of flashings described as "A handy selection of realistic flashing for 45, 40, 35, 30, and 15 degree roofs. Also includes a plain strip of flashing to cut out custom shapes."

Cheers, Tony

No connection, except a happy user of other Scalescenes products - see my threads.

[gwrrob]

Thanks for everyones help here.Much food for thought for the bank holiday weekend.

[gwrrob]

And don't forget that if you are considering making them out of paper, Scalescenes have (in Scratchbuilders Yard) product TX00b (price £1.99) samples of flashings described as "A handy selection of realistic flashing for 45, 40, 35, 30, and 15 degree roofs. Also includes a plain strip of flashing to cut out custom shapes."

Cheers, Tony

No connection, except a happy user of other Scalescenes products - see my threads.

 

DG.Do you have a photo of this item in use please ?

[meple]

[The one thing to remember is that the flashing goes under the tiles/slates, not over as is often modelled]

 

Flashing will always be laid so that any water running down it will run onto the top surface of the material below it. If the flashing was under the top surface then it would feed the moisture under the slates/tiles etc and into the sarking. If the flashing is on the roof ridge that it will be on top of the roofing material, if it is at the top of an opening then it will start under the roofing material and end on the top. Think how the water will run over the top surface of any material and that is how the flashing will be laid.

 

Roddy

 

 

It goes under the slates/tiles at the sides of the chimney (where it is going down hill) and over the slates/tiles below the chimney to form an apron.

 

 

[Killybegs]

The one thing to remember is that the flashing goes under the tiles/slates, not over as is often modelled.

 

 

 

Soakers go under tiles, flashings go over the top!

[Killybegs]

The question says it all really.I'm building a station building and detailing the roof and chimneys.

 

Next time you visit the dentist, ask him what he does with the thin rip off lead backing to those little x-ray plates that they shove in your mouth. Ideal for flashings, lead roofing, etc, and it's the real thing!

[Oldddudders]

This thread is something of a disappointment. On seeing the title I had a vision of a young lady on the top of a mid-rise office block..... Wot it is to be old!

[Dr.Glum]

Reply to gwrrob: I'll see what I can do about a bit of image of the Scalescenes flashing that doesn't break copyright rules, as I havn't yet used it in anger.

Reply to meple: Sorry, I have to disagree about flashing going under the tiles/slates. All the houses round here have it over the tiles/slates, except the strip above the chimney breast where the tiles channel it onto the flashing (as per Roddy Angus's reply). I also kept an eye out during a short train ride last evening, and the only exception I saw was what looked like a very new roof on the station building at Helsby Station. The tiles looked as though they were made of a shiny synthetic material!

Reply to olddudders: There is no fitting reply . Maybe it proves you're not as old as you allege!

Cheers, Tony

[Campaman]

I use masking tape coloured with a 4B or 6B pencil then cut into strips. You can seal with matt varnish or cheap strong hold hairspray. The pencil looks like lead flashing.

[Dr.Glum]

gwrrob asked about the Scalescenes flashing sheet. As you can see on the website, it provides for roof pitches of 45, 40, 35, 30, and 15 degrees, plus a plain area. Colour is pale grey, slightly variable. Here's an image sample. (This is offered for review purposes and therefore shouldn't be a copyright problem.

Until this thread arose, I hadn't actually printed off a sheet of the flashing. Before looking, I'd assumed the side to go over the roof tiles would be straight edged. I'm happy enough as it is, and there's some width for trimming off the 'sawtooth' if I want - what do people think?

In the image below I'm part way through cutting out a short length. (I used ordinary 80g letterhead paper for this demo - I'll have to sort out something thinner for the real building.)

And here it is stuck on a chimney stack I made last year. Maybe this will be the spur to get on and finish the building! (Obviously normally you'd plant the chimney stack in the roof before trimming with the flashing. I can remove that piece as the stack will be deeper in the roof.)

Cheers,

Tony

[Guest stuartp]

Before looking, I'd assumed the side to go over the roof tiles would be straight edged. I'm happy enough as it is, and there's some width for trimming off the 'sawtooth' if I want - what do people think?

 

I'd have said straight and not very wide; as mentioned the side flashing goes under the topmost tile/slate:

 

Piccy

 

Most of my Scottish prototypes used lead flashing for the ridge tiles as well as around chimneys, I'll try the Rizzla paper methods (ta !) as my paper labels look a bit chunky by comparison.

[gwrrob]

:icon_thumbsup2:

gwrrob asked about the Scalescenes flashing sheet. As you can see on the website, it provides for roof pitches of 45, 40, 35, 30, and 15 degrees, plus a plain area. Colour is pale grey, slightly variable. Here's an image sample. (This is offered for review purposes and therefore shouldn't be a copyright problem.

Until this thread arose, I hadn't actually printed off a sheet of the flashing. Before looking, I'd assumed the side to go over the roof tiles would be straight edged. I'm happy enough as it is, and there's some width for trimming off the 'sawtooth' if I want - what do people think?

In the image below I'm part way through cutting out a short length. (I used ordinary 80g letterhead paper for this demo - I'll have to sort out something thinner for the real building.)

And here it is stuck on a chimney stack I made last year. Maybe this will be the spur to get on and finish the building! (Obviously normally you'd plant the chimney stack in the roof before trimming with the flashing. I can remove that piece as the stack will be deeper in the roof.)

Cheers,

Tony

 

Thanks for that Tony. :icon_thumbsup2: Like you say,thinner paper will be better.

[Killybegs]

gwrrob asked about the Scalescenes flashing sheet. As you can see on the website, it provides for roof pitches of 45, 40, 35, 30, and 15 degrees, plus a plain area. Colour is pale grey, slightly variable. Here's an image sample. (This is offered for review purposes and therefore shouldn't be a copyright problem.

Until this thread arose, I hadn't actually printed off a sheet of the flashing. Before looking, I'd assumed the side to go over the roof tiles would be straight edged. I'm happy enough as it is, and there's some width for trimming off the 'sawtooth' if I want - what do people think?

In the image below I'm part way through cutting out a short length. (I used ordinary 80g letterhead paper for this demo - I'll have to sort out something thinner for the real building.)

And here it is stuck on a chimney stack I made last year. Maybe this will be the spur to get on and finish the building! (Obviously normally you'd plant the chimney stack in the roof before trimming with the flashing. I can remove that piece as the stack will be deeper in the roof.)

Cheers,

Tony

 

 

 

Maybe what you have there are two flashings which are intended to be separated down the centre line. Side flashings to chimneys are normally dressed down the vertical face of the brickwork to cover the upstands on the soakers . Soakers are dressed over a slate or tile and then partially covered by the next row of slates/tiles. If you model them as one item, you will have to trim off the saw tooth. Hope this helps.

 

 

[Dr.Glum]

Hello Gents,

I have to offer an apolgy to meple: my survey on Wednesday evening wasn't wide enough. There's always the old adage about "open your mouth and prove you're an idiot". Doh!

 

I've been out and about today, walking into town to the station and a train trip to Liverpool, watching domestic and commercial roofs like a hawk. If you exclude obvious loft conversions and botch-ups, I found that in this part of the world:

 

Slate roofs almost always (99%) showed the stack side flashing under the slates.

Ditto with large synthetic 'slates' on older commercial buildings.

Tiled roofs (what I call Marley tiles) are a mixture of over or under (more of).

Older tiled roofs with smaller terracotta or pantiles 100% under.

Very modern roofs (new or old buildings) 100% under.

 

NB the treatment of flashing from the wall of a taller building joining the roof of a lower one was very variable and not dependant on the age or style of the roof/buildings. In over cases, it was often up to a foot wide (guestimate).

 

Not conclusive, I grant you, but enough to annoy, because it means I probably can't use the flashing in the way I've shown in the earlier model photos, to hide the gap between the roof and the chimney stack. Buggrit!

 

Cheers, Tony