Guest stuartp Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 That looks like a lovely little project! A nice prototype too - always thought they'd make interesting subjects for models. Using EM gauge spacers in 00 can be quite sensible; a lot of kit designers seem to really err on the side of caution when it comes to frame widths. And on a loco like this you want zero side play, so it all makes perfect sense to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Stuartp, I am looking at using the Branchlines pug chassis for a fictional loco. Can you please tell me 1) What is the overall length of the chassis? 2) What is the wheelbase? Many thanks Gordon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuartp Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Gordon - overall length is now 77mm but I filed a bit off trying to make the incorrect brass footplate fit, and as supplied it comes with a bit of extra length to fit the Hornby cast footplate, the scale length being marked by half-etched lines. So in the region of 84mm. Wheelbase is a lot less complicated - 28mm to fit 14mm wheels. James - thanks, that makes me feel a lot less hamfisted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 This looks like a lovely simple project. The Caley "Pug" I think can also be tweaked to produce the very similar BR (ex-LNE/NB) "Y9", of which 68095 is the sole survivor today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Thanks for the information Stuartp Gordon A Bristol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Thanks Stuart. You've made my Wee Ivatt look pretty rubbish now... Lovely job, illustrating how effective relatively small acts of detailing be, with a positive effect out of all proportion to their size! Looking forward to further developments on the 'Puggy' front too. I'd no idea the Branchlines kit could improve such a basic model so effectively. Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuartp Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Thanks Stuart. You've made my Wee Ivatt look pretty rubbish now... Somehow I doubt that Dave, but thanks anyway ! If mine looks half as good as yours once I've weathered it I'll be well pleased. Tonight's top tip (well, last night's): When using Carr's Metal Black to reduce the effect of paint chips showing on one's newly installed brass footplate furniture, always make sure it's thoroughly dry before setting about with the Chaos Black. It makes the paint coagulate on the brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Stuart, this is one of the most inspirational wee builds I've seen in a long time and I quite fancy having a crack at this one myself. Need to sort out the EM Jumbo for 'Cully' first though! Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Hey Stuart, Just a caveat for when your wheels turn up; I've used Scalelink wheels on some NE tanks I'm building at the moment and on Romford axles find they're a bit tight to gauge. I've shimmed them out using a paper disc from a holepunch soaked in cyano. That seems to be about right. There are some pictures on my WB thread if you need a look - work back to the J73 build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted June 6, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 6, 2012 I developed the system of building small diesels in two parts after experience building Craftsman 02 and 07 kits. These are almost impossible to keep straight and flat while soldering cab and casings to the footplate - nearly all the Craftsman 07s I have seen have a pronounced curve from front to back. The idea was to build the cab/casing unit separately so that its lower surface could be checked at all stages of building, this being easily the strongest and stiffest part of a model loco. No point in getting the frames flat and square only to have the body pull it out of shape once bolted up. i used to do this for scratchbuilt locos before I got into kit design. The instructions stress the importance of checking that all flat surfaces are flat at all stages of construction, they also mention that it helps to keep the frames bolted in the footplate at some stages. I would recommend that you correct the lean back of the cab now but you may have to break the joint between the casing and the cab to do it. The NBL casing doors are not easy to solder on, it's difficult to find a register for them and they aren't easy to solder from the inside, from the look of it a bigger iron might have helped to get the heat into the brass quicker. I hadn't thougght of using a marker pen to stop the solder flowing - looks as though it has worked quite well. Michael Edge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted June 6, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 6, 2012 We have been selling the later version of Hunslet 05 for about a year now - £57 + £3 postage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuartp Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Nice one, thanks ! (missed that !). A cheque will be in the post very shortly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iankemp Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Cracking job you did with the tank engine! I didn't notice the buffer tilli read the bottom bit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IC126 Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Hi Stuart - I have uploaded a few detail shots of preserved D2767 at Bo'ness that migh be of use to you to my Flickr album here http://www.flickr.com/photos/44232489@N02/sets/72157630255474034/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 That's a bonny wee machine! Thanks for posting your images. I'd like to see it at work! Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuartp Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Now those are useful, especially the cab and under-footplate details. Thanks Andrew. Progress tonight, the chassis has been de-soldered, cleaned up and re-soldered (it wasn't square) and the rocking rear axle arrangement set up. It doesn't look any different though so no pics ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 In fact... Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IC126 Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Excellent clip - good find! Brickie's RADA training helps him almost completely avoid eye contact with the camera during the entire sequence. The sign of a true professional. Incidentally if anyone needs photos of the underside of the BR brake van, I've got photos from places nobody wants to go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 A fantastic wee machine which also manages to sound about five times bigger than it really is. You can tell it was made in Glasgow! Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
25901 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 A fantastic wee machine which also manages to sound about five times bigger than it really is. You can tell it was made in Glasgow! Dave. And the fact like D2774 (see pic) we took the silencer out and replaced it with some signal post for some raw straight 6 noise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I think soldering them on then touching in with the very edge of the brush after the main painting was finished might have been easier. I used a Staedtler drawing pen to do the window grommets on my detailed Bachmann 04. It was a lot quicker and easier than a paint brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuartp Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 I had a couple of proper Rotring pens which would have been ideal, but one has a fault (blocked probably) and the other got dropped and bent some time ago. There are also at least three Sharpie markers in the house somewhere (Mr Edge's preferred method I believe) but they've all vanished. I suspect Mrs P has spirited them away to the shed for writing on plant labels etc but it was a bit late and dark to go looking. I have of course built in absolutely no provision to stop the oval buffer heads turning. I have, however, thought up a solution which also solves the problem of how to fit the S&W coupling bar without trying to drill a 0.33mm hole in a lump of brass 2mm thick. Matt varnish tonight with any luck, which should tone it down a bit and at least kill the gloss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Make sure you get the glazing in Stuart. It'll look kind of weird without it! Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 The front steps on this one are a bit weird Stuart. The pony won't swing sufficiently for normal model railway purposes when they're installed. An unfortunate but unavoidable compromise. Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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