ash39 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Hi, I've got 4 of each of these locomotives, I don't know quite how I've ended up with so many, but I still want more Anyway, as most of you will know these Hornby models are not the best in terms of realism and look a bit plasticy next to my more contemporary Hornby Class 60's and generally all Bachmann products, which I find excellent. So, as we're not expecting a retooled 90 or 91 any time soon, I'd like to go about subtly improving mine. (I guess a retooled 90 at some point is a possibility as there are endless livery possibilities. The 91 less likely I feel) I don't want to go too overboard, not looking for 100% true to life realism as this doesn't interest me. I just want an improvement on the standard model. It's mainly the front ends that bother me. I'm sticking with standard couplings but I'm happy to remove one from the 90 so it can only be used from one end. Then I can obviously add detailing to the no1 end. What I'm looking for is pointers on where to start. I'm guessing I need buffer beam parts, where would I get these from? Also the two orange covers below the lights aren't painted on the Hornby models, so this would be a subtle improvement, but I'm lost for ideas after that. I don't want to go down the route of putting vents in the sides/roof at this stage as I haven't yet got an airbrush to do the repainting that would be needed. Any help would be appreciated, in return I'll do a photo write up so any other beginners in my situation can refer to it in future. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Not sure if they're still on offer at hattons, but for a good solid Class 90 chassis try the Heljan 86. It will need some trimming of the chassis to fit however. Also, look at the links below for some inspiration http://www.rugby-parkway.com/images/90roof/90roofdetail.html http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/14161-intercity-class-90/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Hiya The first stage of any detailing project is to find pictures of the actual locomotives you want to do in at least the year you want to model them. Although its tempting to get stuck in its vitally important that you do this stage HTH Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWJ Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 'RBE' has done an excellent Class 90 detailing/re-painting thread here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/14161-intercity-class-90/ Hope this helps! Cheers, Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 Great info thanks everyone. Goes without saying that I'll be relying on prototype photos to help with the project, some great shots on flickr I've been using already. Not looking at remotoring at the moment, three of my 90's have 5-pole motors which are decent enough. I'd prefer an all wheel pickup/drive obviously but it's good enough without spending loads upgrading. First one I'm tackling is my 90030/130 'Fretconnection' . The Hornby model is actually 130 but I want to recreate the era where it was running as 030 and was hired by GNER for Kings X-Leeds services (along with many other 90's), and I've found a great pic of it at Leeds in 1999: So tonight I've removed the front coupling, added the overhead line warning flashes, and added the 90030 number below the cab window. As you'll see in the prototype photo the 90130 number is still visible due to the faded paint, I'm going to try and replicate this on the model by using white spirit but stopping before it's totally removed. Before - that coupling didn't bother me before but now it's gone it looks horrible! After - Next step is to fashion some kind of lower valance to fill the gap below the bufferbeam. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Is it possible to cut the valance from the coupling and re-attach it? IIRC they are moulded as one unit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 Unfortunately not, it looks as if they cut away a middle section and chuck it away as it isn't deep or long enough. Good idea though! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Is it possible to cut the valance from the coupling and re-attach it? IIRC they are moulded as one unit. Yes, very possible! Unfortunately not, it looks as if they cut away a middle section and chuck it away as it isn't deep or long enough. Good idea though! Then reinstate the missing section! IIRC it needs either 60 or 80 thou adding in the 'gap'. Line it all up by eye and shape to suit. It's a lovely cheap improvement! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Agreed, with a bit of greenstuff, or whatever modelling putty you use, you can make a smooth concealed join. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Shawplans etched double arrows would look nice in place of the current painted ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Indeed. If you look on my thread referenced above the valance is taken from the coupling and then (once the coupling mount is also removed from the bogie as this will now foul any valance you have there) cut a piece of thick (approx 3mm or so I cant remember?) plastcard to fill the void between the two and as mentioned above fill with milliput, greenstuff or whatever your preferred filler is. Works a treat. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Unfortunately not, it looks as if they cut away a middle section and chuck it away as it isn't deep or long enough. Good idea though! Hi Ash I don't want to seem rude and I am all for encouraging people to have a go but if you really think filling in the gap in the rtr valance is an obstical I wonder if you should reconsider going any further? This is really basic stuff if I am honest. Besides if you are throwing it away you have nothing to loose from having a go do you? Cheers Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Scott, I'm planning to order some shawplan etched BR logos, and also the Crewe depot eagles and 'fretconnection' nameplates. Thanks for the thought! Cav, I noticed the coupling mounts would foul any valance so I've cut them down at either side leaving just the hole, its still quite strong. I want to leave the possibility of re-adding the coupling, for now at least. This is also why I don't want to chop up the existing valance. Besides, I may have another option for that which I'm not able to speak about yet. Jim, I've never done any detailing before, hence the thread, so whilst it might seem simple to you, I don't even own any filler at this stage. However that doesn't mean I wouldn't know how to use it. This thread was intended for advice on what to use and how to use it, so whilst I appreciate your comments I don't necessarily agree with them . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Is it possible to cut the valance from the coupling and re-attach it? IIRC they are moulded as one unit. Unfortunately not, it looks as if they cut away a middle section and chuck it away as it isn't deep or long enough. Good idea though! This thread was intended for advice on what to use and how to use it, so whilst I appreciate your comments I don't necessarily agree with them . Fair enough, but please dont be so dissmissive of those who ask questions or offer solutions. Forest2807's suggestion was perfectly valid and yet you (with no experience base to call on, by your own admission) appear to dismiss it completely. Its not about what you can and can't do as we all have to learn how to do stuff, its about a persons attitude to a problem. Just don't dismiss things so quickly thats all. Yes you haven't done it but its as easy to think you've never messed it up either. I didnt say it was simple, i said it was basic, After all we are discussing filling a hole, that level of basic. All modelling essentially comes down to making a hole, filling a hole cutting something into 2 parts or sticking 2 parts together. After that its simply how many times we have to do it to get the end result. Like you said - you dont know what you can and cant do yet. Cheers Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Hi - why not give the Valance idea a go? get the right materials and then try it, I started out just like you and some of my early attempts at detailing were, well ... poor! I had no drills, filler or anything and gradually learned over time how to detail and get the right buffers and what not NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 First one I'm tackling is my 90030/130 'Fretconnection' . The Hornby model is actually 130 but I want to recreate the era where it was running as 030 and was hired by GNER for Kings X-Leeds services (along with many other 90's), and I've found a great pic of it at Leeds in 1999: So tonight I've removed the front coupling, added the overhead line warning flashes, and added the 90030 number below the cab window. As you'll see in the prototype photo the 90130 number is still visible due to the faded paint, I'm going to try and replicate this on the model by using white spirit but stopping before it's totally removed. I wouldn't use white spirit on its own - it probably won't be so effective. Have a read of this - http://eastmoor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/fading-fast.html If you applied the msort of mix discussed to the orange and yellow areas with a wide chisel type brush, then you should be able to build up the effect. It does take time and will look awful until final weathering. There's a newer write up here - http://eastmoor.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/project-31-fades-away.html Jim, I've never done any detailing before, hence the thread, so whilst it might seem simple to you, I don't even own any filler at this stage. However that doesn't mean I wouldn't know how to use it. This thread was intended for advice on what to use and how to use it, so whilst I appreciate your comments I don't necessarily agree with them . We all start off in exactly the same way. Please don't dismiss the advice you receive here - it's all worth listening to, especially when others have attempted similar projects and make time to share their experiences. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 I never intentionally dismissed any advice! I thought the advice was to stick the offcut bottom piece to the top,which I rightly said would not work. It would be fairly stupid on my part to dismiss advice that I have specifically requested. I'm sorry if Ive come across that way to anyone. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 I'm sorry if Ive come across that way to anyone. It did come across that way I'm afraid. But on a more positive note, before going further with the valance, what couplings do you use, or intend to, on your stock? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Sorry James (and anyone who thinks the same). I think things sometimes come across the wrong way on internet forums when there is no way to express tone. I'm sticking with the standard Hornby couplings at the no2 ends, and none at the no1 end. Whilst they don't look great, they are practical and I have some tight curves on my layout. Just noticed someone kindly posted a link above regarding number removal, I must have missed it before (i usually read the forum on my phone, not a great browser!) Going to have a read now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Sorry James (and anyone who thinks the same). I think things sometimes come across the wrong way on internet forums when there is no way to express tone. Smilies are your friends! I'm sticking with the standard Hornby couplings at the no2 ends, and none at the no1 end. Whilst they don't look great, they are practical and I have some tight curves on my layout. A wire loop at the correct height may work fine. It can be attached to the valance and works down to 18" radius curves. You can make it out on the Western in this post here - http://eastmoor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/02/western-brakegear-final-conclusion.html It would allow 'two ended' operation and you can have full valances at either end then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 I thought the advice was to stick the offcut bottom piece to the top,which I rightly said would not work. But it does work! All you have to do is fill in the missing section with filler/plasticard. I'm not being deliberately obtuse here but I really can't see the problem. If I've missed the point please do tell me! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 The point is I thought that post meant to just stick the offcut from the coupling back onto the body. I didn't realise that any filling was required. Does it even matter? I understand it now and I've apologised to anyone who thought I was ignoring their advice. Why are we still talking about it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Why are we still talking about it? That's exactly what I was thinking. Can we all get back to helping ash with his models? So Ash , you have heard the case for using the original skirt, do you still want to keep the original or are you going to have a go at using it? If not would you like other options? Cheers Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 RIght, I see Ash. Don't take all the questioning to heart. Some people on here (myself included) can come across as a bit short-tempered at times; it isn't deliberate, it is just perhaps that we've been doing this for a long time and sometimes take for granted that not everyone has the same level of experience. Your Class 90 improvements have made a world of difference already and I for one look forward to seeeing the next stage of your work. Whether or not that involves the valances and filler and plasticard is immaterial, you asked a perfectly valid question and received answers to the question and suggestions to solve it. You are at liberty to pick and choose the advice and course of action best suited to you, I hope you found the solutions valuable and that they help in increasing your knowledge and experience so you can tackle these modelling tasks that we jaded old ###### might consider simple, even though they may well not be to a modeller with lesser levels of experience. (not meaning to be patronising!!) Keep posting, let us know what you do with the Class 90. All the best. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Thanks all. Got some 3mm plasticard and humbrol filler tonight so will be giving it a go at some point this week/weekend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.