Michael Delamar Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 this is my build of the new Kitson from Judith Edge.a very nice kit, well designed and in a nice thickness of nickel silver.lots of things to make the build easier such as handrail holes etched, half etched areas for parts to fit etc so all goes together square and true. cab and boiler designed to be bolted for access to motor and for painting.slightly tricky part is the saddle tank, rolling is no problem but the lower tighter curve takes a bit of planning and preparation to ensure its formed correctly. I had a slight scare here but was resolved with a bit of heat and forming it correctlymy model will be representation of Liverpool Bank hall's 47002 in mid-late 1950s condition, complete with lots of coal all along the running plate as was common, that will help cover any bad modelling.high level load hauler plus is an ideal fit in the firebox and boiler, leaving the saddle tank free for lead which I have crammed in as much sheet lead in as possible, the rear of the chassis will have some lead in also to balance it and is a nice weight now.wheels will be Gibson, I had the chassis running perfectly before I discovered they had to come back off as the crossheads would clash, resulting in me damaging the wheels so a new set is on order, they where also damaged by me using powerflow flux near them aswel so I will take a lot more care with the new ones. ive tried fitting romfords but they are too thick.I did plan using the compensation on the front but have now done away with this and soldered the bearings into the front, mainly for simplicity.I have struggled with the crosshead area and clearance, I have now sussed how thin the coupling rods can be at the front, the next area to work out is the crossheads themselves which are etched in 2 parts and quite fiddly for myself to do. im hoping i can subsitute machined ones for reliabilty.its all in pieces at the moment but this is how it looked when everything placed on. dirty and with some blobby solder to clean up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 crosshead set up.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 ive managed to do one crosshead. please excuse untidiness on chassis, that can be cleaned up, its had quite a bit of handling and fitting and refitting of parts. I squared off the piston bar so it could be soldered easier to the etched crosshead then soldered with RSU, the connecting rod trimmed from 2 thickness to 1 at crosshead end so it fits in better, holes opened up more and I soldered thicker nickel wire either side of crosshead rather than use steel pin. paper placed between when doing this and now crosshead seams to work well, these wheels are to be replaced with new ones and I cant fit the other side which im yet to make up until the wheels arrive and are fitted and quartered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 it works! I had to make a new back half of the crosshead on this side after wrecking the first attempt, easy enough to make from some scrap. before I fitted the wheels I made sure everything to be soldered on the chassis was finished so I didnt solder near to the wheels, items such as lifeguards, brake rigging etc. I fitted 3 new gibson wheels and one I had originally as I managed to melt one of the new ones trying to solder the washer back on the crankpin that had popped off, this happened a few times which was annoying, but it also helps to countersink the crankpin into the wheel slightly. it runs with wires held on the motor, hasnt got pickups fitted yet, high level gearbox is very smooth. on the body it has had the roof soldered on with rain strips and sunroof (whatever the railway term is), brackets under the saddle tank soldered on using solder paste. also the coal bunker doors have been fitted with the doors open, there is an etch to make the bunker inside of the cab but I left this out because it was a bit fiddly and also I want to fill the coal bunkers with lead. some soldering bits to finish off include pipework around the boiler, steps and buffers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 a shot of 47002 on shed at Bank hall and coaled up appears half way down this page.. http://www.davidheyscollection.com/page16.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWales Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Nice work Mike! You've certainly been busy-I wonder if will it be running at EM North? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Looks like you've done OK without ever needing Romford / Markits wheels! Does this mean you'll be able to qualify for the "model in one week" thread? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 Martin ill be at Expo Em but just visiting. Ivan, could probably do this in a week, hasnt taken long in actual hours if we count them up. I could do another in a week knowing what I know now, but because its for me and not for someone else im taking my time on it. there is quite a bit to it for what is a small 0-4-0. although Im surprised how large these loco's are, I never realised they where quite so large. still not totally convinced about these wheels but theres nothing else about, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 2, 2012 Author Share Posted August 2, 2012 little bit more done today, every bit of wire is supplied in this kit, you really do get a lot in this kit as its not really expensive, nice easy to bend copper wire for the injectors which run under the tank is now done, as is the thick wire for the saddle tank balance pipe underneath. ive misplaced or pinched for something else the 30swg wire for the cab beading so thats still to do. ive also done reversor lever alongside footplate and in cab, brake lever in cab, fireiron brackets. some resin parts are now glued on, backhead, dome, water filler and chimney which has been cut down and brass tube inserted to replicate the earlier chimney. some final bits to do which ive left to last as they where a bit delicate are steps and lampbrackets. I think rather than using real coal all along the footplate I will use cuts of lead. smokebox number plates for every loco BR or LMS is included, ive got a 27A shedplate from 247, but still need to get cab buildplates from somewhere. I wont moan about the wheels again but theyre not as shiny as they where yesterday. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Looks like it's coming on well. ...I think rather than using real coal all along the footplate I will use cuts of lead. Why? Only coal looks like coal! I wont moan about the wheels again but theyre not as shiny as they where yesterday. Wheels aren't meant to be shiny, they look much better if you blacken them (eg. Birchwood Casey gun blue) before you use them. Also, I know some swear by it, but Powerflow is good for plumbing and cr@p for modelling because it is very corrosive (yes, I know plumbers will tell you it just washes off). Use a proper flux, e.g. one based on phosphoric acid. For those who believe that Gibson wheels will always rust, I've had a blackened one sat on the bench for most of the last year, close to all my soldering work and there isn't a trace of rust on it. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 2, 2012 Author Share Posted August 2, 2012 was thinking on using a mix of lead and real coal on top as itll just be a little bit of weight, however it has got a nice weight now. I did keep the powerflow away, ive ran out of it now, ive got some carrs but i dont like water type fluxes i need to find a paste type im happy with which is non corrosive. I also use solder paste for smaller jobs. but the wheels did have a very faint rust coat to them this morning, running it upside down with a fibreglass brush it went away fine. doing that I did notice the rear wheels have a slight wobble, Ill correct that after painting, it runs nice and smooth with no tight spots. now, painting, with wheels permanantley on how do i clean the chassis prior to primer and paint? i cant dunk it in the sink now. of course ill mask off motor gearbox, and will put something maybe grease on the tyres, but I can still see this gumming up the works. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 ....Why? Only coal looks like coal!..... Maybe it's a heavy fuel experiment..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 2, 2012 Author Share Posted August 2, 2012 useful detail shot of 47000 from above.. there is a shot of this loco derailed on its side in The Cromford and High peak by John Marshall. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 6, 2012 Lovely job, Mike. One of these is on my Scaleforum shopping list next month! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 thanks Tim, what loco are you modelling? P4 I take it? should prove no problem to you, this kit is an enjoyable one to build. Ive done the jobs on the cab, beading,handrails, lamp brackets and ive also done the steps. needs a good clean up but is nearly ready for paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 one thing I cant be certain on is the position of the early crest, on shots of other classmates sometimes its above and sometimes below the saddle tank handrails. I dont have any clear shots of this loco carrying the early crest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 ignore that ive just found one http://www.colourrail.com/Preview.aspx?ImgRef=2405 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 after the sandboxes where fitted and also the front lampbrackets the chassis and footplate have had a coat of U pol zinc primer and Halfords satin black, wheels had vaseline on while this was done which means some touching up later on the wheel fronts which is no problem, the treads are nice and clean now, I just wanted to keep the coats thin, the gearbox was masked and the grub screw on the final drive loosened so i can turn the wheels by hand, it runs freely being pushed along the bench so seems its ok. its also had lead fitted in the bunkers which can just be seen and some inside the chassis in the centre. its got a nice heavy feel to to it now, I have been watching on where the lead was placed, I dont want it doing wheelies I would normally take the buffers out but I was concerned the fine bent ends inside may snap so left them in. the boiler/saddle tank and cab need a good clean up and wash/degrease before they can be painted, which is what I am doing now while i update this.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 cab and boiler primered, quick update to distract me away from it while I wait for it to dry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted August 7, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 7, 2012 I did keep the powerflow away, ive ran out of it now, ive got some carrs but i dont like water type fluxes i need to find a paste type im happy with which is non corrosive. I also use solder paste for smaller jobs. Try this Michael http://www.hisltd.co.uk/Frys-Fluxite-Soldering-Paste-100g-Tub.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Try this Michael http://www.hisltd.co...e-100g-Tub.html I've used this product for plumbing and for tinning larger areas and it works very well. Whether it's suitable for Michael's application - not sure. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 I did keep the powerflow away, ive ran out of it now, ive got some carrs but i dont like water type fluxes i need to find a paste type im happy with which is non corrosive. Powerflow is easy to deal with. Just pour boiling water over the job at the end of every session. All fluxes are by definition corrosive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 thanks men, the only problem I have with poweflow and similar is in vicinity of gibson wheels. cab and saddle tank now have paint, quite hard to photograph but looks good in real life, be better once its got decals and weathered. the main thing is its a nice even coat, no loss of rivet detail, I try keep to the coats thin, some little nooks and crannies get missed but if you try and get them itll end up with thick paint in an area so they will be touched up and weathered later. I could do with a recommendation on how to paint white smokebox numbers, up until now ive used a coctail stick to apply with mixed results, im thinking something like a white felt tip pen would work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 7, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 7, 2012 what loco are you modelling? P4 I take it? Hi Mike, Yes, it will be in P4, but I need to do a bit of research for the most likely candidate that could have found it's way to South Gloucestershire!... Yours is looking very nice now, as regards the smokebox door number plate - presume it's a nickel silver etching? If so, could you not just gently rub the raised paint off with a bit of wet & dry paper and leave it at that? Otherwise, I generally prefer to make my own smokebox door plates, and use transfers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 could you not just gently rub the raised paint off with a bit of wet & dry paper and leave it at that? nooo thats one of my biggest bug bears on models, locos had white smokebox numbers not brass or nickel coloured but will rub it off prior to painting Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.