Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

13 hours ago, robertcwp said:

This is E70294E in the 1960s - the photo was taken no earlier than 1962:

 

E70294E_Newcastle by Robert Carroll, on Flickr

Thanks Robert,

 

I think I'll just renumber my model to one which lost the gear. Or, just fit it retrospectively. 

 

One thing of note. In 1956, E70294E had one completely round buffer at each end (those not underneath the gangway)

[Atso]

21 hours ago, 65179 said:

 

Looks great Steve. Have you employed the usual 2mm dodge of moving the plane of the slidebars and piston rod outwards (whilst leaving the prototypical width over cylinders) ?

 

Simon

 

Hi Simon,

 

Yes, I've moved the position for the piston rod out quite a bit to fit everything in. In theory there should be sufficient clearances now, but the 'best laid plans'.....

[Tony Wright]

Despite years and years of making things, I still cock-up. Clearly, my model of the TPO (carrying that number) should still have all its traductor gear and netting to run on Little Bytham.

 

So add it all, or change its number? Several TPO vehicles lost their gear, so there should be plenty to choose from.

 

One last job was to paint the post box bright red on the sides (the B&W prototype picture I used shows this to be much lighter than the main body colour, suggesting the coach was in maroon - lined at that). 

 

Then, it's down to layout use............

 

 

 

In a short, empty stock train (the third movement in Bytham's sequence). 

 

In very tight perspective, some distortion is apparent in the 3D-printing process (the pigeon van is also 3D-printed, by Isinglass). Clearly, this means such a vehicle is inferior to a brass equivalent, but it's much easier to build - which is of importance to those less-able/less-experienced; a fact often forgotten by some. 

 

I'm definitely not advocating slip-shod modelling, but the two shots above illustrate my approach to 'layout modelling'. I make no apologies for this stance. Along with the loco, I've built everything in this train, apart from the ex-LMS BG and Mk.1 BG (both of which I've detailed). 

 

Tony Gee showed some some wonderful TPOs built by Steve Banks (one of the greatest model carriage builders in all history). I neither have the skills nor the time to produce models of such incredible quality, so I get by with my approach; which suits me. 

 

 

[john new]

On 15/02/2022 at 10:38, john new said:

Thanks for the comments re timber. I did some basic reading and video watching yesterday. Observations, not meant to be definitive just my notes.

 

1) Before the 1920s imported timber came in as trunks, was kept in water (timber ponds) at the docks and tended to be sawn there. Source: https://youtu.be/FTP3V9txa98   A short documentary on Hull Timber Dock’s history. The trade then moved to imported plank timber.

 

2) Shipped as single timbers in the ship’s hold, stacked on the dockside  in both odd ways and organised lengths, and trains left with very random length loads. Sources: primarily the excellent 29 mins BFI collection film on Hull Docks released in 1963 https://player.bfi.org.uk/free/film/watch-the-port-of-hull-1963-online?play-film - and a Google Images search.

 

3) At least one regular consignment coming into Goole in more recent times was 20ft lengths from Sweden. Other timber from Russia also via Goole but Malcolm’s company didn’t handle that. Source: S-I-L’s father,

 

I am awaiting a further response from an SLS colleague regarding Hull, which should be definitive as Mike has written a book on the Railways and Docks of Hull.

 

 

Update on loading a timber wagon with overhang.

 

Despite the delay since the above post matters have progressed. As a follow up to assessing the photograph of planks coming off a vessel in Hull Docks I cut several coffee stirrers into various scale lengths in a range between 20ft and 30ft. I then loaded this model which appears to be appropriate, a 12T general merchandise open* following the guidance on p26 of the BR/BTC booklet BR 20426. This was downloaded from http://www.barrowmoremrg.co.uk , an excellent resource for which thanks are offered. I also hope the selected barrier wagon is appropriate.

 

From Diagram 16, the associated table and related notes the following can be gleaned:

1)     Any load for this wagon over 25ft 6” would not be permitted. (Note 2)

2)     The maximum load must have an 8” clear drop from the wagon’s top edge at the non-overhanging end. (In the diagram)

3)     Due to the maximum permitted overhang of 8ft for a load of mixed lengths a 25ft plank will fit (Note 1) - measured on the model, does fit within 32mm of the body.

4)     For the 8ft overhang the load must not exceed set tonnages variable according to the chassis material (steel or wood), else the maximum overhang reduces - Data in the Table. (NB This is the one currently unresolved matter as I don’t know enough about the weights of timber.)

 

In the photo the too long 27, 28 and 30ft lengths are shown in front, although other photos suggest that for internal use within Hull docks the BR overhang limits may have been ignored.

 

A remaining uncertainty; in the BFI movie of 1963 on improving Hull Docks the moving train loaded with timber has it loaded in battered reddish looking wagons (vac fitted?) not grey.

 

As an interim stage before doing weathering etc., this looks like my guidance version: other works to this pair of wagons will include fitting sprat & winkles, making it a permanently coupled pair, and then roping on the load.

 

Comments welcome.

 

*R-T-R Oxford Rail.

 

 

Edited April 15, 2022 by john new
Replaced the lost photo

[MJI]

I have been testing a 3d printer I now have 28 Swindon DMU battery boxes

[30368]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

In very tight perspective, some distortion is apparent in the 3D-printing process (the pigeon van is also 3D-printed, by Isinglass). Clearly, this means such a vehicle is inferior to a brass equivalent, but it's much easier to build - which is of importance to those less-able/less-experienced; a fact often forgotten by some. 

 

Good afternoon Tony,

 

Yes a very good point. For less experienced builders of stock and loco's its really important for them to achieve something that they can learn from and then improve on next time. So discouraging if a kit is too difficult for even an "improving" modeller.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

5 minutes ago, MJI said:

28 Swindon DMU battery boxes

Hi Martin,

 

Thats better than having 30 boxes! Only kidding, good that you are using this newish technology to good effect.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[uax6]

As Tony was so kind to start me off on my Jidenco journey (and at his insistance!) hes what I've been up to over the weekend, between trains:

 

The first job was to solder up the chassis spacers (I do this normally anyway, once I'm happy that everything is running nicely, but the kit requires the cylinders to hang off a rod that passes through the front spacer):

 

Then it was onto coupling rods. These were supplied as two layers to sweat together. As removed from the fret:

 

I then got a drill bit that just fits inside the crankpin hole, and stabbed it into one of the wholes in the cutting mat. Then a steel ruler over the top, then a paper towel, then the rod. It was fibreglass brushed to clean it and then a wash of flux and then tinned:

 

Another drill put in the other end, and then the second layer cleaned, fluxed and then soldered into place:

 

The rod is then cleaned up (with a file and fibreglass brush) and then tried out on the wheels:

 

And the news was good. with both sides on, the chassis pushes along with no binding at all.

 

The con-rods were done in the same way:

 

The next bit was to add the detail etch for the compensating beam. This was cleaned, fluxed and tinned, and then the chassis side cleaned and then soldered in place, with a drill bit through the hole to line things up:

 

I'm still undecided whether to open out the half etch around the beam or not.

 

Then it was soldering the half etch detail sides to the plain backers:

 

giving a pair thus:

 

The slot at the front (for the front cylinder cover) is used to line up the sides with the footplate:

 

Giving:

 

10 ba nuts were soldered above the footplate to hold the chassis to the footplate. I'm not sure about the front one as of yet, as the instructions, believe it or not, are a bit sketchy about where it is supposed to go!

 

Thats is where I got to on Saturday, before the railway decided to fall apart, and I had no more time to model.

 

This morning I carried on. Today it was a start of the bodywork. here are the cab etches:

 

The cab top halves were tinned:

 

And then the half etch overlay was added to the top of both:

 

Then it was the job to add the cab window frames. Joyously they were poorly designed on the etch, so that when you removed them they bent:

 

They were soldered in position (with the usual cleaning and tinning):

 

Then cleaned up (with very fine needle file):

 

All done:

 

Getting to the above stage took the best part of two whole hours, fiddly at times these things!

 

The 'instructions' suggested to 'form the cab radius and then solder the front and rear cab sides in place, making sure that they are vertical'. This was easier said than done, as the edges of the cab uprights don't meet the side tanks, and you have to line up the cab openings with those on the side tanks.

 

Nothing lined up, and when you got one bit square it pushed it out somewhere else. I spent a good half hour battling with it until I had enough and decided to do it my way!  I removed the spacers that held the front and rear of the cab together, and decided to just fit the cab front. This would allow me to also fit the tank front too, and hopefully adjust the cab bend to fit. Here you can see the front and side just put in place, and how far out the cab top is:

 

I soldered the cab front in square:

 

Then the tank side:

 

Which allowed me to fettle the bend to the right place:

 

The other side was then done:

 

I then noticed that I had soldered the cab top etches on the wrong way round! I wasn't undoing it all, so with the use of a file and some solder sorted the rounded corners out!

 

The instructions tell you to fix the cab in place and then add the cab splashers later. As I have a lot more access at the minute it seemed like a plan to fit them now. I fitted a wheel to see what things were like clearance wise and:

 

There is none! The openings will have to be filed right back to gain clearance. Maybe P4 wouldn't have a problem, but theres no way 00 will fit!

 

At this point box cleaning was calling, so it was scrubbed with a toothbrush and cif cleaner and packed away. It will be a couple of weeks till I get back to her and those cut outs!

 

Andy G

Edited March 14, 2022 by uax6

[MJI]

1 hour ago, 30368 said:

Hi Martin,

 

Thats better than having 30 boxes! Only kidding, good that you are using this newish technology to good effect.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

Especially after working it out I only need 14 at the moment. But I am thinking a Cardiff based 123 is a possibility.

 

Next jobs will be

 

BR Gas box with bottom bracing.

Swindon IC radiators

Swindon IC engines (but may scratch and resin cast instead)

Swindon std DMU vacuum or air tanks

BR (WR) 5.5 planked wagon body

BR (WR) Ply van body.

 

 

[MJI]

[john new]

39 minutes ago, uax6 said:

As Tony was so kind to start me off on my Jidenco journey (and at his insistance!) hes what I've been up to over the weekend, between trains:

 

The first job was to solder up the chassis spacers (I do this normally anyway, once I'm happy that everything is running nicely, but the kit requires the cylinders to hang off a rod that passes through the front spacer):

 

Then it was onto coupling rods. These were supplied as two layers to sweat together. As removed from the fret:

 

I then got a drill bit that just fits inside the crankpin hole, and stabbed it into one of the wholes in the cutting mat. Then a steel ruler over the top, then a paper towel, then the rod. It was fibreglass brushed to clean it and then a wash of flux and then tinned:

 

Another drill put in the other end, and then the second layer cleaned, fluxed and then soldered into place:

 

The rod is then cleaned up (with a file and fibreglass brush) and then tried out on the wheels:

 

And the news was good. with both sides on, the chassis pushes along with no binding at all.

 

The con-rods were done in the same way:

 

The next bit was to add the detail etch for the compensating beam. This was cleaned, fluxed and tinned, and then the chassis side cleaned and then soldered in place, with a drill bit through the hole to line things up:

 

I'm still undecided whether to open out the half etch around the beam or not.

 

Then it was soldering the half etch detail sides to the plain backers:

 

giving a pair thus:

 

The slot at the front (for the front cylinder cover) is used to line up the sides with the footplate:

 

Giving:

 

10 ba nuts were soldered above the footplate to hold the chassis to the footplate. I'm not sure about the front one as of yet, as the instructions, believe it or not, are a bit sketchy about where it is supposed to go!

 

Thats is where I got to on Saturday, before the railway decided to fall apart, and I had no more time to model.

 

This morning I carried on. Today it was a start of the bodywork. here are the cab etches:

 

The cab top halves were tinned:

 

And then the half etch overlay was added to the top of both:

 

Then it was the job to add the cab window frames. Joyously they were poorly designed on the etch, so that when you removed them they bent:

 

They were soldered in position (with the usual cleaning and tinning):

 

Then cleaned up (with very fine needle file):

 

All done:

 

Getting to the above stage took the best part of two whole hours, fiddly at times these things!

 

The 'instructions' suggested to 'form the cab radius and then solder the front and rear cab sides in place, making sure that they are vertical'. This was easier said than done, as the edges of the cab uprights don't meet the side tanks, and you have to line up the cab openings with those on the side tanks.

 

Nothing lined up, and when you got one bit square it pushed it out somewhere else. I spent a good half hour battling with it until I had enough and decided to do it my way!  I removed the spacers that held the front and rear of the cab together, and decided to just fit the cab front. This would allow me to also fit the tank front too, and hopefully adjust the cab bend to fit. Here you can see the front and side just put in place, and how far out the cab top is:

 

I soldered the cab front in square:

 

Then the tank side:

 

Which allowed me to fettle the bend to the right place:

 

The other side was then done:

 

I then noticed that I had soldered the cab top etches on the wrong way round! I was undoing it all, so with the use of a file and some solder sorted the rounded corners out!

 

The instructions tell you to fix the cab in place and then add the cab splashers later. As I have a lot more access at the minute it seemed like a plan to fit them now. I fitted a wheel to see what things were like clearance wise and:

 

There is none! The openings will have to be filed right back to gain clearance. Maybe P4 wouldn't have a problem, but theres no way 00 will fit!

 

At this point box cleaning was calling, so it was scrubbed with a toothbrush and cif cleaner and packed away. It will be a couple of weeks till I get back to her and those cut outs!

 

Andy G

I think the above is a great example of what puts people off doing brass kits; I have done a very limited selection, have found issues, and seen many described examples like the above. These tarnish the image of the whole genre.

Edited March 13, 2022 by john new

[micklner]

A Jidenco "kit"  is the worse possible example of anything to try and make. Build at your peril.

[cctransuk]

46 minutes ago, micklner said:

A Jidenco "kit"  is the worse possible example of anything to try and make. Build at your peril.

 

I have heard this said so many times!

 

If you want something akin to an Airfix kit, but in brass, don't bother!

 

If, on the other hand, you take a pragmatic view that a fifty-year-old brass kit from the earliest days of such technology might be somewhat less user-friendly than, say, a state-of-art Judith Edge item, you should be able to produce a satisfactory outcome.

 

There is no substitute for patience, acquired skill and a little lateral-thinking; and no excuse for unrealistic expectations!

 

CJI.

[micklner]

1 hour ago, cctransuk said:

 

 

 

There is no substitute for patience, acquired skill and a little lateral-thinking; and no excuse for unrealistic expectations!

 

 

OR simply Buy a different make of kit , one on which that the parts fit together, are the right sizes and that actually look like the prototype it supposed to be representing if it ever actully gets finished, and does'nt come with a single piece of photocopied paper that is totally useless posing as instructions !!

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, micklner said:

A Jidenco "kit"  is the worse possible example of anything to try and make. Build at your peril.

I'm in complete agreement, Mick.

 

Is this a 'first'? 

 

I only ever tried to build one Jidenco kit (actually two, sold as a pair, for a large- and small-boiler Claughton). 

 

The pair was a commission; I did a bit and handed the box back. So much replacement scratch-building would have been necessary as to make the price too prohibitive.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, uax6 said:

As Tony was so kind to start me off on my Jidenco journey (and at his insistance!) hes what I've been up to over the weekend, between trains:

 

The first job was to solder up the chassis spacers (I do this normally anyway, once I'm happy that everything is running nicely, but the kit requires the cylinders to hang off a rod that passes through the front spacer):

 

Then it was onto coupling rods. These were supplied as two layers to sweat together. As removed from the fret:

 

I then got a drill bit that just fits inside the crankpin hole, and stabbed it into one of the wholes in the cutting mat. Then a steel ruler over the top, then a paper towel, then the rod. It was fibreglass brushed to clean it and then a wash of flux and then tinned:

 

Another drill put in the other end, and then the second layer cleaned, fluxed and then soldered into place:

 

The rod is then cleaned up (with a file and fibreglass brush) and then tried out on the wheels:

 

And the news was good. with both sides on, the chassis pushes along with no binding at all.

 

The con-rods were done in the same way:

 

The next bit was to add the detail etch for the compensating beam. This was cleaned, fluxed and tinned, and then the chassis side cleaned and then soldered in place, with a drill bit through the hole to line things up:

 

I'm still undecided whether to open out the half etch around the beam or not.

 

Then it was soldering the half etch detail sides to the plain backers:

 

giving a pair thus:

 

The slot at the front (for the front cylinder cover) is used to line up the sides with the footplate:

 

Giving:

 

10 ba nuts were soldered above the footplate to hold the chassis to the footplate. I'm not sure about the front one as of yet, as the instructions, believe it or not, are a bit sketchy about where it is supposed to go!

 

Thats is where I got to on Saturday, before the railway decided to fall apart, and I had no more time to model.

 

This morning I carried on. Today it was a start of the bodywork. here are the cab etches:

 

The cab top halves were tinned:

 

And then the half etch overlay was added to the top of both:

 

Then it was the job to add the cab window frames. Joyously they were poorly designed on the etch, so that when you removed them they bent:

 

They were soldered in position (with the usual cleaning and tinning):

 

Then cleaned up (with very fine needle file):

 

All done:

 

Getting to the above stage took the best part of two whole hours, fiddly at times these things!

 

The 'instructions' suggested to 'form the cab radius and then solder the front and rear cab sides in place, making sure that they are vertical'. This was easier said than done, as the edges of the cab uprights don't meet the side tanks, and you have to line up the cab openings with those on the side tanks.

 

Nothing lined up, and when you got one bit square it pushed it out somewhere else. I spent a good half hour battling with it until I had enough and decided to do it my way!  I removed the spacers that held the front and rear of the cab together, and decided to just fit the cab front. This would allow me to also fit the tank front too, and hopefully adjust the cab bend to fit. Here you can see the front and side just put in place, and how far out the cab top is:

 

I soldered the cab front in square:

 

Then the tank side:

 

Which allowed me to fettle the bend to the right place:

 

The other side was then done:

 

I then noticed that I had soldered the cab top etches on the wrong way round! I was undoing it all, so with the use of a file and some solder sorted the rounded corners out!

 

The instructions tell you to fix the cab in place and then add the cab splashers later. As I have a lot more access at the minute it seemed like a plan to fit them now. I fitted a wheel to see what things were like clearance wise and:

 

There is none! The openings will have to be filed right back to gain clearance. Maybe P4 wouldn't have a problem, but theres no way 00 will fit!

 

At this point box cleaning was calling, so it was scrubbed with a toothbrush and cif cleaner and packed away. It will be a couple of weeks till I get back to her and those cut outs!

 

Andy G

Remarkable progress Andy,

 

Thanks for showing us. However, rather you than me, though I'm glad I erected the frames/bearings squarely/accurately enough so that the rods fitted first time.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[chris p bacon]

1 hour ago, micklner said:

OR simply Buy a different make of kit

 

Whilst I agree about Jidenco, as it looks like a Highland Railway loco I doubt there is another kit on the market.

 

Having seen some of Andy's builds up close I have no doubt it'll be a good model when finished.. . . .Although I still haven't forgiven him for parking a Morris Minor on my driveway.

[t-b-g]

2 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

I have heard this said so many times!

 

If you want something akin to an Airfix kit, but in brass, don't bother!

 

If, on the other hand, you take a pragmatic view that a fifty-year-old brass kit from the earliest days of such technology might be somewhat less user-friendly than, say, a state-of-art Judith Edge item, you should be able to produce a satisfactory outcome.

 

There is no substitute for patience, acquired skill and a little lateral-thinking; and no excuse for unrealistic expectations!

 

CJI.

 

I agree with you completely. If I build two kits, one a dead easy, falls together straight from the box type, then a real pig that takes lots of work to get it right, then I find the latter gives the greater satisfaction when it is completed, even if it is much harder to build into a good model.

 

I enjoy a challenge and pushing my skills as far as they will go and there is no doubt that some Jidenco kits are a good way to do just that.

 

There have been plenty of straightforward, easy to build kits over the years. Of course it is not always easy for a relative novice to know whether they are buying a good one or a pig but there is enough information in magazines and on the internet to help somebody make that choice if they take the trouble to do some research before they buy. 

 

I have been doing just that sort of research for a friend considering purchasing an Ace Models D16 kit. Their products seem to have a deal of variation in the quality as they have come from different stables and designers, so it is not just a case of saying Ace kits are good or not so good. Even within the range of a manufacturer they can vary greatly. This particular one had a review in the GOG Gazette which suggests that you can build a good model from it if you treat it as an aid to scratchbuilding rather than a kit and are prepared to purchase castings from elsewhere.

 

Even some Jidenco kits were actually half decent.

[cctransuk]

1 hour ago, micklner said:

OR simply Buy a different make of kit , one on which that the parts fit together, are the right sizes and that actually look like the prototype it supposed to be representing if it ever actully gets finished, and does'nt come with a single piece of photocopied paper that is totally useless posing as instructions !!

 

Oh that life were so simple !!

 

If you are content to only build locos that come as easy-to-assemble kits, and are content to forego all prototypes that are not available in such format - fine.

 

Those of us who prefer to build a representative collection of stock for our chosen location/ period will accept that some extra effort is required.

 

Each to their own ......

 

CJI.

[micklner]

Just now, cctransuk said:

 

Oh that life were so simple !!

 

If you are content to only build locos that come as easy-to-assemble kits, and are content to forego all prototypes that are not available in such format - fine.

 

Those of us who prefer to build a representative collection of stock for our chosen location/ period will accept that some extra effort is required.

 

Each to their own ......

 

CJI.

Please post the link to your modelling collection.

[Compound2632]

7 hours ago, john new said:

4)     For the 8ft overhang the load must not exceed set tonnages variable according to the chassis material (steel or wood), else the maximum overhang reduces - Data in the Table. (NB This is the one currently unresolved matter as I don’t know enough about the weights of timber.)

 

The loading documents on the Barrowmore MRG site are a treasure-trove, aren't they? Althoughthey are BR period documents, where one can compare with earlier instructions, they seem much the same, so to my mind they provide a summary of best practices as it had evolved over more than a century of railway operation. 

 

I found useful information on densities of different types of timber on several sites, e.g. here: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-density-d_40.html. Some calculation is needed to get to the maximum dimensions of the load. 

 

Here are some notes I made:

 

 

... as an aid to replicating these wagons, photographed at Reading Vastern Road yard, c. 1905:

 

 

although my models were backdated to c. 1902, with a slightly earlier design of markings on the wagon sheets:

 

 

The question of sheeting is one I haven't got to the bottom of.  I think this load is probably planed timber for floorboards or similar building construction, so would want to be protected from the elements, whereas sawn timber might not need sheeting. In transit, the wagons would have to be marshalled with the overhang trailing, otherwise the wind would get under the sheet.

 

I think one has to be cautious in using photos of wagons in yards or docks etc., as they're not necessarily in the condition they would be in in transit. So many of the loads beloved by modellers would actually be hidden from view under a sheet. This leads to my philosophy that one has to consider wagon + load + sheet as a single model, rather than adding the load as an afterthought or worse, trying to make detachable sheets. 

[cctransuk]

3 minutes ago, micklner said:

Please post the link to your modelling collection.

 

I am sending a PM to micklner, but interested members will be able to find illustrations of numerous examples of my modelling in threads throughout this forum.

 

CJI.

[chris p bacon]

9 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

I am sending a PM to micklner, but interested members will be able to find illustrations of numerous examples of my modelling in threads throughout this forum.

 

CJI.

Upgrading the Blue Pullman is one I remember 

[uax6]

12 hours ago, micklner said:

A Jidenco "kit"  is the worse possible example of anything to try and make. Build at your peril.

 

I have got a pile of Jidenco 'kits' that require building at some point, so I thought start small and move up through the range. I'm by no means a highly skilled modeller, in fact this is my first etched loco kit, and only the third etched kit I've made (and one of them I haven't finished!). Its all a learning curve and I'm treating it like mind teaser. I suppose its really an aid to scratchbuilding. 

The big thing is not to rush it. As Tony has said, they are not things really to pay someone to build, as they will cost arms, legs and at least a kidney to pay for! But by doing it slowly it should go together fairly well I hope. Another thing that helps is doing it between trains, as going to do something else a couple of times an hour allows your mind to relax, and you can think about that problem bit using the back of your mind, which is where results generally come from.

 

I hope the photo build on here might actually show that it probably isn't as bad as it looks (I have a HR Clan and Superheated goods in the pile, I occasionally get them out of the drawer, open the box take the etches out, look at them, shudder, and put it all back again!), but they certainly aren't going to be 'shake the box and its done' kits. I was actually surprised that there are a few parts that are tabbed to aid construction, the fact that I've had to file some of them off to ease construction is par for the course I suppose.

 

 

9 hours ago, chris p bacon said:

 

Whilst I agree about Jidenco, as it looks like a Highland Railway loco I doubt there is another kit on the market.

 

Having seen some of Andy's builds up close I have no doubt it'll be a good model when finished.. . . .Although I still haven't forgiven him for parking a Morris Minor on my driveway.

 

Indeed it is, a Jones 4-4-0T ( https://mikemorant.smugmug.com/Trains-Railways-British-Isles/Scottish-and-BRSc/Scotland-Highland/i-nHdzzTL/A  )  and as far as I know this is the only kit, later part of the Falcon Brass range. The big thing I'm not looking forward to is that Crewe front end, it curves in to different planes (I hope the kit does the same!) so that will be interesting to solder up! 

 

As for not forgiving me, you've gone to great lengths to stop it happening again, moving up to the bleak wastelands....

 

Andy G

 

[Bernard Lamb]

10 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

I am sending a PM to micklner, but interested members will be able to find illustrations of numerous examples of my modelling in threads throughout this forum.

 

CJI.

No need to do that.

I just have to look at my work bench to see the standard of work that you produce.

5 stars for both research and execution.

As for service and helpful attitude I would give 6.

Bernard