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Doxey End - Walls and Bridges


Anotheran
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  • RMweb Gold

But the screws don't look like brass - are they ?

 

Rob,

They're not brass, they're what are described as "zinc and yellow passivated". I knew that the ones I should have used are brass, so I did a test first on scrap pieces of wood and track and it created a solid join, so I went for it. I'm guessing from your question that that was the wrong option...

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  • RMweb Gold

I am also going to do is to have a piece of ply at the end of the board, the width of the board and a ply width away from the board screwed in place to act as a protection against damage when I move it.  It is my next big job so should be in a week or two when I get some time.

 

Chris,

I do intend to have end boards to bolt to both baseboards for movement, the intention is that the boards will go together as a single "box" scenic area to scenic area with end boards joining them and protecting the ends of the track etc. But I know how clumsy I can be, so I know that if it can be caught (even in that small slice of time between taking the end boards off and putting the two boards together) then I know I will catch it! So I wanted to make sure that if anything is ripped it would be my clothing rather than the track (but don't tell my wife I said that).

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  • RMweb Gold

I wasn't suggesting it was wrong - I don't know enough to say that :-)

 

I'm so glad you said that... as I was contemplating how hard it will be to remove them and replace them now that they're in with the track on them. You only need to know the step beyond the person you're teaching to be the expert... so if you've done it before, and found brass easier, then to me you're the expert! I did find it a bit tricky to solder, hence the mess I made (or at least that's one excuse) so now you've told me that I'll use brass for NE. I don't think I'll change for DE as I've already put a number of screws in, and done the next bit of track... more in the next post.

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  • RMweb Gold

No picture from tonight, unless I do one in a couple of hours, as I didn't remember to take a shot before putting the weights on again. Progress this evening was pleasing. I put in the goods shed road and the two sets of points at the left hand end. That included soldering it to the screws I'd put the solder on last night (note I couldn't say tinned again as it really is just a blob!)

 

The length of track (49 cm) took me about 20 minutes to widen the sleepers and attach the drop wires. So I think I'm speeding up on that, which is good as sleeper widening is definitely not eye widening activity! I'm choosing which roads I do quite carefully as I'm avoiding, for now, the ones that will have the electromagnetic decouplers, of which there will be four on the layout. I am looking forward to doing them (stealing another idea for installation, but I won't spoil the surprise) but I want to get as much track down and powered as possible first as that means I can run stuff backwards and forwards, which as I said yesterday is very much a novelty for me on something that I have built  :senile:

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  • RMweb Gold

Playing around with AnyRail again and realised that I can use layers to document progress (as well as separate out all of the different types of elements of course). So here it is. The progress report as at 8th October - I did it yesterday and haven't done any more today.

 

2097907734_141008-Progress.png.8665081a1818385c1173f7be02a260a9.png

 

And just to prove it (I promise I won't do this doubling up every time as it's too much of a stretch to get the photo) I also took a photo of the whole of the layout as it currently stands - or rather sits on the floor as I've not built the legs yet.

 

IMG_3345.JPG.8a6e34df96d4debf66f4f36376b76aea.JPG

 

The siding/head shunt at the left hand end is again only pinned and joined using connectors, so it's for show at the moment. I may do a bit more work with the soldering iron later under the left board, but nothing on the top, and nothing different to the way the right board was done.

 

 

Edited by Anotheran
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  • RMweb Gold

Having tried Anyrail......and trying to fit Arboretum Valley onto it...and having proved way beyond my patience...and probably capabilities...I salute you....looking good.

 

Thanks Jaz. I've used AnyRail all the way through for my planning (including for a number of layouts that are a long way from seeing the light of day!) and all of the plan images in my threads are exports from it (including the one in my signature). So I've got used to it's peculiarities. I've created user objects for many of my buildings and also for electronic circuit boards. I find it pretty accurate for Peco streamline (and my objects) but I must admit that I've never tried anything as ambitious as AV in it!

 

I do find though that to get images of bits of the plan the best way is to export the whole lot at a reasonably high resolution and then use a graphics tool (Paint normally) to cut out the bits I want.

 

What do you for planning on AV? I don't recall seeing a full plan, though it is a lot of posts to remember, and I can't see one in the index.

 

Kind regards, Neil

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  • RMweb Gold

Rather a lack of updates from me over the weekend. I didn't do much visually, but did get through something. First thing Saturday morning I set to work on the wiring of the left hand board. I'm realising now, that I shouldn't be using that phrase, as more and more I'm looking at the layout from the other side. It's only left hand from the perspective of a viewer, not the operator. So I should refer to it as the station board and the other as the warehouse or FY board.

 

So the electrics for the station board...

 

IMG_3350.JPG.7e1cf4a990114483c5fd60bef8a5cd6d.JPG

 

It was the same principle as the FY board. The traction bus is again an old Hornby long straight pinned to the underside of the board and cleaned up so that I can solder wires to it. I am still liking the way this gives me quite a neat underside. But I know that will disappear somewhat when I get the layout control bus and wiring in. But at least it's starting neat!

 

Then it was time to play trains! I put the boards up on my table so for the first time the layout was at a good operating height. I clamped an upright strip of ply (somewhat longer than necessary, to the end to block the 3 ft fall should I not stop before the end of the warehouse sidings (the other end was against the wall)! Then the trusty 37 went back and forth across all of the powered track with no hint of a problem. I did try the class 57XX, but, sadly, as expected, it can't cope with the isolated frogs. I also got a few wagons out for the first time. So I had the slightly un-prototypical sight of a blue class 37 hauling two dark grey GWR cattle wagons and a brown LMS 20 ton brake van. Good job I forgot to take a picture of that!

 

IMG_3352.JPG.23c4e6a3d2496efae9eb6e31a567923e.JPG

IMG_3354.JPG.455efe9266563329189133ee85b8d0c9.JPG

 

There was a serious side to my playing. I wanted to establish where I really needed to put the decouplers. I'm going to be using a mix of Kadee electromagnetic decouplers and some permanent ones made up of tiny neodymium magnets that I will put into the cork next to the rails between sleepers. The pleasing thing is that I think I can use fewer of the expensive electromagnet ones. So my current plan for decouplers is this.

 

1330737910_140816A-Decouplers.png.480e85643245d4457119949e947629cd.png

 

On this plan the electromagnets are the big red rectangles and the permanent neodymium decouplers are at the points marked by the red circles. The only one I'm not fully comfortable with is the one between the toe ends of the points leading into the warehouse sidings. Operationally it works really well as it can work for both of those sidings and also the right hand end of the goods road. However, it's just under the edge of the bridge, which means I won't be able to easily see if the couplings are uncoupled or not. So my alternative is the two orange circles. the little magnets are very low cost, so I don't mind having multiples, but I'd rather have one instead of two if it could work. What do people think?

 

 

Edited by Anotheran
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  • RMweb Gold

Although I spent a bit of time a few posts ago explaining what my relay boards were I didn't fully explain where and how I intend to use them. So I though, as I have half an hour spare before a conference call, that I'd do so now.

 

To give it some context, here is my current mimic diagram (I draw these in AnyRail using Hornby set-track components and a few circles etc). Please ignore the signal and point numbers for now. I will work out what they should be (with help from anyone who cares to jump in) but for now they're just labels in case I need to refer to them.

 

412130547_DE140816A-Mimic-Front.thumb.png.8cd9d40549be4e9af070151419439859.png

 

I do have once that is from the other side of the boards that will form the basis of my physical mimic panel as that is the side that the operator will be looking from. But for now I'll keep to this one as it's the same way round as all the plans I've included.

 

One of the ideas behind the layout was to allow different types of control to be used.

 

Section 1 (including a to e) can be controlled either through DCC or standard DC. Sections 2 through 5 are controlled using DCC, standard DC, or MERG ATC DC. The latter is the Automatic Train Control that, in this case, will allow two trains to shuttle back and forth between the hidden sections (4 and 5) and the platform at section 2 through section 3. I'm not going to go into ATC at all at the moment, but will do so when I get to the point of implementing it.

 

Sections 1a to 1b can all be isolated. I know they don't need it when they're on DCC, but the wiring will be simplified to use the same buses for DC and DCC so they can be isolated on either system. DCC or DC will be chosen simply by plugging the relevant controller into a jack socket. Yes, I could have another switch and have both connected at once, but as I will want to disconnect the controller at the end of a session anyway and I won't be using DC and DCC at the same time, I may as well just have them with a single jack socket.

 

For sections 2 to 5 the switching is slightly more complex as they need to be able to be isolated on DC (and will be also on DCC) but also able to be switched to ATC.

 

All of the above will be accomplished with the following relay configurations in which the green box is a latching relay (as per the boards I've shown before) and the purple box is a non-latching relay. The grey box steps down the voltage from the power to the ATC so it is suitable to drive the coil on the non-latching relay.

 

1666976790_Relaydiagrams.png.4b137800a17057a36850ab6dec48f01d.png

 

Section 1 will be permanently connected to the main bus. Sections 1a to 1e will be connected through a latching relay as in the top of the three diagrams. Layout control (maybe initially through normal switches, but afterwards through the MERG CBUS components) switches the track to powered or isolated. That's the easy ones.

 

The second and third diagrams are options for sections 2 to 5. The middle one allows isolation only when on standard DC or DCC. The bottom one allows isolation also on ATC DC. As I've yet to work out what happens if I accidentally isolate an ATC section when it is running I think I'll probably use the first option. The green box is as before. The purple one is a non-latching relay. In it's normal (unenergised) state it will (as per the diagrams) pass the power from the DC/DCC lines. If the ATC is powered up then a spur from that power will pass through a voltage regulator to energise the coil of the relay switching it to take power from the ATC output.

 

I hope that all makes sense. I've tried to simplify my circuitry as much as possible and take out switches where I can. Hence the jack to swicth from DC to DCC and the power for the ATC to switch the relevant sections to ATC without having to throw more switches.

 

That's all for now folks!

 

 

Edited by Anotheran
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Hi Neil, the last post completely lost me, but I will re read it again later, I'm sure it makes a lot of sense to you.

 

I like the track plan from the Hornby components in Anyrail, I have recently deleted Anyrail but I think I will need to retrieve it for a plan like that for Bitton.

 

Some nice work on the point laying too.

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  • RMweb Gold

Andy,

 

Sorry about that. I'm obviously not as good at explaining it as I thought. Maybe I should have split it into small bits. I'll explain each bit separately as I put them in, so hopefully it will become clearer. It's obviously a good thing I never became a teacher!

 

As for AnyRail for mimic diagrams I think it's great! Using the set track components and coloured sections makes a very effective diagram easily. The only slightly complicated bit is then drawing circles for the lights

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  • 4 weeks later...

I understand DC and DCC parts of the post   ......      :sungum:   ...........   as it is uses one or other of the Loco control systems which are fairly common on the scene  .......     :senile:

 

Although I spent a bit of time a few posts ago explaining what my relay boards were I didn't fully explain where and how I intend to use them. So I though, as I have half an hour spare before a conference call, that I'd do so now.

 

To give it some context, here is my current mimic diagram (I draw these in AnyRail using Hornby set-track components and a few circles etc). Please ignore the signal and point numbers for now. I will work out what they should be (with help from anyone who cares to jump in) but for now they're just labels in case I need to refer to them.

attachicon.gif140816A - Mimic - Front.png

 

I do have once that is from the other side of the boards that will form the basis of my physical mimic panel as that is the side that the operator will be looking from. But for now I'll keep to this one as it's the same way round as all the plans I've included.

 

One of the ideas behind the layout was to allow different types of control to be used.

 

Section 1 (including a to e) can be controlled either through DCC or standard DC. Sections 2 through 5 are controlled using DCC, standard DC, or MERG ATC DC. The latter is the Automatic Train Control that, in this case, will allow two trains to shuttle back and forth between the hidden sections (4 and 5) and the platform at section 2 through section 3. I'm not going to go into ATC at all at the moment, but will do so when I get to the point of implementing it.

 

Sections 1a to 1b can all be isolated. I know they don't need it when they're on DCC, but the wiring will be simplified to use the same buses for DC and DCC so they can be isolated on either system. DCC or DC will be chosen simply by plugging the relevant controller into a jack socket. Yes, I could have another switch and have both connected at once, but as I will want to disconnect the controller at the end of a session anyway and I won't be using DC and DCC at the same time, I may as well just have them with a single jack socket.

 

For sections 2 to 5 the switching is slightly more complex as they need to be able to be isolated on DC (and will be also on DCC) but also able to be switched to ATC.

 

All of the above will be accomplished with the following relay configurations in which the green box is a latching relay (as per the boards I've shown before) and the purple box is a non-latching relay. They grey box steps down the voltage from the power to the ATC so it is suitable to drive the coil on the non-latching relay.

attachicon.gifRelay diagrams.png

 

Section 1 will be permanently connected to the main bus. Sections 1a to 1e will be connected through a latching relay as in the top of the three diagrams. Layout control (maybe initially through normal switches, but afterwards through the MERG CBUS components) switches the track to powered or isolated. That's the easy ones.

 

The second and third diagrams are options for sections 2 to 5. The middle one allows isolation only when on standard DC or DCC. The bottom one allows isolation also on ATC DC. As I've yet to work out what happens if I accidentally isolate an ATC section when it is running I think I'll probably use the first option. The green box is as before. The purple one is a non-latching relay. In it's normal (unenergised) state it will (as per the diagrams) pass the power from the DC/DCC lines. If the ATC is powered up then a spur from that power will pass through a voltage regulator to energise the coil of the relay switching it to take power from the ATC output.

 

I hope that all makes sense. I've tried to simplify my circuitry as much as possible and take out switches where I can. Hence the jack to switch from DC to DCC and the power for the ATC to switch the relevant sections to ATC without having to throw more switches.

 

That's all for now folks!

 

ATC however   ......................       was last seen by me as a cubic white box, near enough to a runway to be able to see whether a crashing plane was going to hit it or not   .....      :stinker:

 

I can only imagine what Automatic Train Control might need to run it     ....       :scratchhead:    ....   I also do get the reason for the regions  ....     ["my goodness 2 out of 3 - I really am on a bit of a run here  ..."]

 

Question 1. - If , in diagram 2 - the green box becomes a DPDT switch - if you accidentally turn off the power to the Tower ATC, then the purple latch would switch, but you would need to click the DPDT switch to return to DC/DCC - ?....

 

Question 2. - Is it really essential/desirable to have automatic switching from ATC to DC/DCC, when the ATC is switched on  .......   it would seem to eliminate an unknown, by using a DPDT switch  ......    :scratchhead:

 

 

My questions are in no way advice, as I even find difficulty in understanding how the door mirrors on the car swing inwards, after I have switched everything off, then removed the Key, got out and then lock the car  .......   but can't operate them from their buttons inside the car - even before it is locked  .......    .....................          .....................          .................................     and don't even think about how they swing out before I even get in the car  .....     :O

 

 

I am now going to sit down to take the pressure off my brain after all that lot   ..........    

 

 

 

Edit - remove double post  ....    from brain  .....

Edited by jcredfer
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  • RMweb Gold

Yooooo hooooo.....it has been noticed you are very quiet.....hope every thing is alright......hoping you are on holiday.......

 

 

Neil,

Your absence has created some concern amongst your friends here, can you enlighten us, even if it's from a phone? One hint to Jaz or myself and we'll spread the word. Hope you are well,

Kind regards,

Jock.

 

Hi Jock, Jaz,

 

Thank you so much for your concern. It's been a hectic couple of weeks with mum being taken in to hospital after a big scare, and a little bit of work. RMWeb, and indeed modelling, took very much a back seat. She's out of hospital now, but still a long way from 100%. With that, and having to catch up a lot of work, this week will probably also be rather thin. Thank you though for your concern. It's really touching to know there are people out there who care, even though knowing each other is basically through typed posts.

 

Kind regards, Neil

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Sorry to hear about you mum. Jock was the one who really noticed, as I have been spasmodic over the last few weeks. Glad she is out of hospital, and hopefully will get better. My dad's health is like a tightrope walker, and it can be a fine balancing act to keep him rolling along. He has a positive mental attitude and does exercises for his broken arm, and the weak knees (long term hospitalisation did not help, after the 3 month stay a lot of effort was put in by the hospital to get him back up on his feet, physio with the hospital in a small swimming pool etc. If my dad seems out of sorts I nag 111 or drag him down the doctors. Luckily he lives in a granny annexe with us, and has one of those emergency falls buttons you hand around your neck. Our senior doctor says he is a cat wit the proverbial 9 lives. Beating the odds several; times at his age is apparently statistically rare. Badgering the doctor for what you can do to help...has in my experience paid dividends.

 

edit=no pressure to post obviously. Now we know why. We'll hear from you when you have a chance. Real life MUST always take precedence.

Tempt her with nice food, M+S, or a different shop, something different often works, and with Xmas coming there is plenty of goodies. My dad has been scoffing salmon for some time..I look out for the offers morrisons is good for that. And the protein is good for breaks, the oil is good for muscles, and I thing omega oils too. Get her excited about Xmas, a positive attitude helps lots. You can pick up loads of Xmas brochures. Morrisons has a mobile chair scheme if she is struggling to walk around. Watch her...my dad drove off leaving the plug in the socket and broke it!!!!! Luckily Morrisons didn't charge him...phew......Ask her to go thru photo albums and write on the back whose who...keeps her busy....hopefully not maudlin.....and in time, access to those memories will be lost.....we can't beat time....just fight it.....And get her up and walking asap. Lying in bed, just sitting down, is not heathy, muscles need exercise. And a zimmer frame near her bed. OH, and get on to get concern if she needs any items around the house for mobility, they are superb. We had all sorts, steps,grab handles, help with pressure sores from lying in bed, zimmer frame, properly measured walking sticks (you'd be surprised how that one helps) a seat for sitting at the sink if getting a wash tires you out, a support for on and off the toilet, the press button emergency is much cheaper if gotten thru their services too, if you are aware of it, there is plenty of things to get for help, and transport if anytime you can't sort out a trip to the hospital. The thing is to not ignore/accept that an elderly relative needs help, and hopefully will get better and you can throw the stuff back!!!!! small treats, we find it easier than most because my Dad lives in the same house. If any aspect is getting you down, you can usually adapt, time is always the hardest...especially if the person is not nearby. anyway.....best wishes.

Edited by Jaz
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  • RMweb Gold

Question 1...

Question 2...

 

Hi J,

I'm not ignoring this, it's so nice to have some questions, but I'll need to wait until I get back this evening and can boot up the PC so I can see my diagrams properly enough to answer the questons... or maybe raise some more!

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Hi Neil,

Don't hurry, you have lots to do, other than replying to a couple of questions, as others have said.

 

Take time to take good care of your Mum and you will also need to find a little time for yourself to recover a little, eventually.

 

Best wishes for the meantime.

 

Hi J,

I'm not ignoring this, it's so nice to have some questions, but I'll need to wait until I get back this evening and can boot up the PC so I can see my diagrams properly enough to answer the questons... or maybe raise some more!

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Neil,

Terribly sorry to hear of your mother's illness and hope that it all turns out well in the end! Very creditable to concentrate on that, rather than leisure activities - plenty of time for those! Please keep us posted and be assured that we will be thinking of you both during this troubled time,

Kind regards,

Jock.

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  • RMweb Gold

Neil,

All the best to you and your mum.  I know it may sound horrible to say it but being nice to your parents is always time limited, so best to do it now.

 

Not sure what else to say not knowing your exact circumstances or even how old your mum is.  Will be thinking and praying for you all.

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  • RMweb Gold

A short interlude at work has allowed me to pop on here. Thanks to you all for your kind words of support.

 

Mum's feeling a lot better, though with complications. To answer some of your questions... she's 71 and normally in excellent health, very mobile even after two hip replacements, thinks (or thought) nothing of a three or four mile walk. It appears she may have contracted some kind of infection that has affected her inner ear, so when I got to her house (unfortunately dad was 80 miles away with some visitors from the twinned town who were visiting) she couldn't see properly and had been violently sick. Couldn't stand, or even move much on the chair. Although the ambulance service had said that it would be quicker for me to take her into hospital it was quickly clear I couldn't even get her to the room door, let alone the car. So I called the ambulance again. After ten days in hospital they had established that the symptom was severe vertigo, but not established the cause. So, once they had brought the vertigo under control with drugs and she could walk to the bathroom and climb stairs unaided again they released her. A couple of days later she was back in for the day with severe itching over her whole body and yellowing skin... an allergic reaction to the drugs had affected her liver. So they have taken her off those, given her piriton until the drugs are out of her system and she's back at home. Now she's feeling somewhat better, but is still rather anaemic. She is to have blood tests every two days to establish her liver function to check that there hasn't been a permanent issue created. But of course, there is still no explanation of the original cause of the vertigo, and as she is now off the drugs for that there is a concern that it may reoccur. So she's not able to go out, and certainly not drive.

 

So we await the next instalment. Thanks again for caring.

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  • RMweb Gold

Question 1. - If , in diagram 2 - the green box becomes a DPDT switch - if you accidentally turn off the power to the Tower ATC, then the purple latch would switch, but you would need to click the DPDT switch to return to DC/DCC - ?....

 

Question 2. - Is it really essential/desirable to have automatic switching from ATC to DC/DCC, when the ATC is switched on  .......   it would seem to eliminate an unknown, by using a DPDT switch  ......    :scratchhead:

 

My questions are in no way advice

 

OK. So a bit longer for my reply than I thought... but let's give it a try!

 

It could be that my understanding of what I am doing leaves something to be desired... at the moment it is theory. But I'll answer your questions in the light of my understanding and let the mighty combined knowledge of RMWeb let me know if I've got it wrong.

 

On question 1. My understanding of non-latching relays is that if the coil is unpowered it is in one known state, and if powered it is in another. My intention, therefore, is that it is powered when the ATC is also powered, and so switches to ATC. When unpowered passes through whatever the output of the green relay is. This is latched and is either DC/DCC (I'll explain that bit in a minute) or isolated. The choice of DC or DCC is simply dependent on whatever controller I have plugged in to the socket at the time.

 

Do I want it to automatically switch back to DC/DCC if I accidentally turn off the ATC? Maybe not. I can see that could cause a significant issue if I am moving something using DC at speed (though DE won't see much speed!) and something under control of ATC near the end of the line suddenly gets switched to DC as well and flies off the end. I could avoid this in two ways. One is the way you have suggested, which leaves the ATC/DC switch automatic on the power up of ATC. The second (which moves on to your second question) is to make the purple relays also latching. That way I have to deliberately switch form ATC to DC/DCC regardless of the power state of ATC.

 

So you may not have intended your questions to be in any way advice... but they have been taken as such as they have made me challenge my design and spot the potential expensive flying locomotives. I actually like the idea of making the second relay latching. It requires more outputs from the LCB to control it, rather than my penny pinching automatic operation. But that penny pinching could cost lots in broken rolling stock. I could potentially still use an output from the ATC power to switch the second relay, but if it is latching I would have to physically click a button to switch it back, in the manner you describe in your first question.

 

Thank you very much for your comments. They have helped significantly in making a more reliable design.

 

Though I still have to get back to implementing something! Will maybe be able to do a bit this weekend... which seem a very long way off!

 

Kind regards, Neil

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