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7mm J36: Great Aunt Maude


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love the build, really interesting.

 

The clamps you are using look really good, where did you get them from please?

Thank you.

 

Somebody else on this site posted the link to the clamps: apologies but I have forgotten who that was! The clamps came from Touchstone Tonewoods at a very reasonable price:

 

http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/products/clamps-supports-37/flexible-strap-clamp-ingenious-design-ideal-for-clamping-finge-1836.aspx

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If you already haven't seen them you might find this album of photographs from the SRPS showing Maude over the years of use.

 

http://www.srpssteam.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=21&pos=0

 

It would look as if Maude has never had a visibly riveted smokebox, however I would draw your attention to the centre driving wheel spashers!

 

Jeremy

Thank you. The SRPS site has much useful information. I will probably emboss some rivets on the centre splasher. It looks like the rivets on the smokebox are a preservation era change, but visible rivets on the wingplate appeared sometime in BR days. It's a mine field trying to understand what condition the loco was in at any specific time.

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I take it the clamps are ok with the heat of soldering or do you take any precautions?

This job is the first time I have used them - probably as it is my first attempt at a 7mm etched brass kit - but I found no problems. I used 145 degree solder and a good hot iron to let the solder flow, but I didn't linger with the iron and the clamps were untroubled by the operation.

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I forgot to post a picture of the gearbox repaired as per Ozzyo's suggestion using axle bearings. The trial fit of worm and gear went well. It is going to be interesting getting the motor to fit in the firebox: the angle will have to be just so.

 

post-13840-0-77088500-1425999250_thumb.jpg

 

Boiler bands and washout plugs fitted.

 

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I need to add some lead the boiler then I will solder all to the running plate.

 

Edit for typo (worm not work!)

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Once you know where the motor needs to be. either run a piece of 0.7 wire from a suitable hole on the centre line of the gearbox to one in the chassis, or make a loop to go around the motor to a point on the chassis. They do not need to be soldered, and they give the motor freedom to move but not rotate.

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This job is the first time I have used them - probably as it is my first attempt at a 7mm etched brass kit - but I found no problems. I used 145 degree solder and a good hot iron to let the solder flow, but I didn't linger with the iron and the clamps were untroubled by the operation.

Thanks, they sound well worth getting.

 

The build is coming along nicely.

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Thank you.

 

Somebody else on this site posted the link to the clamps: apologies but I have forgotten who that was! The clamps came from Touchstone Tonewoods at a very reasonable price:

 

http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/products/clamps-supports-37/flexible-strap-clamp-ingenious-design-ideal-for-clamping-finge-1836.aspx

I'd be the guilty party!

 

Glad you found them useful, some very nice work as well.

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This is a bit wordy so read it if your interested in rivetting on Dia 81 boilers.

 It's a mine field trying to understand what condition the loco was in at any specific time.

It certainly is David. I have spent some time today looking through all my reference material. Whilst I think this accurate, please don't rely on me being infallible. The dia 81 boiler was fitted to five classes of engines, G9, J36, C15, N14, & N15. They were pressed to 160 psi for the J36 and 175 psi on the rest. Some of the G9's and the N14's had safety valves on the domes but these boilers were always fitted to these classes. By and large the railways bought an engine with boiler and nere the twain shall part, but in 1920 or so the NBR realised that the lack of spare boilers caused overhaul times to unavoidably extended and Wm Beardmore supplied twenty spare dia 81 boilers, even though they weren't yet called that. At this point it is worth remembering that at that time all of these boilers, 305 of them, had flush rivetted smokeboxes and wingplates. Various contractors and Cowlairs works continued to supply new boilers as required from time to time and it is worth noting that by 1950 the Cowlairs boiler register had reached 2066, although though obviously enough a good few of these were allocated to long scrapped boilers. Also in that year Doncaster applied a boiler numbering scheme for the english companies in the LNER and although it didn't apply to the former NBR and GNSR, in 1951 Cowlairs started applying numbers that were in the range 26000 - 26999.

 

It is apparent from pics that it was very late in LNE days that snap head rivets started appearing on boilers and wingplates. The earliest I can find is 1946, which I think points to post war austerity rather than engineering per se. Consider that a piece pf plate that will allow a countersunk rivet to work is going to be significantly thicker than that required for a snap head, which is quicker and cheaper for rivet and plate. It is also apparent that some engines acquired visible rivets on the wingplate whilst still having flush rivets on the smokebox, probably a likely replacement wingplate that had been badly warped where the smokebox door fitted. I have found reference to an N15 getting a new boiler in 1950 and I presume it wasn't lying around at Cowlairs for years before use so I think it safe to say that visible rivetting on a Dia 81 boiler/smokebox is a post war appearance. Referring to Yeadons suggest that most of the C15's went for scrap having only had two boiler changes in their lives of 50 years which is about right given guid scottish water and notably I could only find one pic of this class with a snap rivetted smokebox. There were slightly more of the N14/15's so fitted, but given there were 168 J36's then the pool of spare boilers will be bigger and inevitably more post war replacements built. This I feel explains why there is so much variance within this particular class. I have found, where I can, that engines with visible rivets had boilers numbered at the high end which tends to support my theory.

 

The rivets on the centre splasher top again suggest a post war repair, I can only find one other example but it's entirely possible that this is a preservation era addition.

 

Just to confuse the issue further, I spoke to our chief engineer who confirmed that the boiler Maude currently carries is actually from an N15, and the vacuum brake equipment came from another J36, possibly 65312.

 

I hope this may go some way to explaining the situation and hasn't bored everyone to sleep.

 

Regards

Martin

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Progress has been slow this week: work got in the way.

 

I have had to remove the reverser as I will not be able to get the backplate in place with it there, so the next job is to paint it up and perhaps re-pipe it. The fittings are cast into the backplate, so I may think about taking a break from this and ordering some separate items.

 

post-13840-0-63313600-1426854866_thumb.jpg

 

Not far to go now.

 

post-13840-0-49886200-1426854876_thumb.jpg

 

Photos of Maude and some other J36's taken in late BR days show a pipe coming through the spectacle plate on the driver's side and going up to some sort of fitting just below the whistle. I haven't found a clear photo of it. Does anybody know what it is please?

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Progress has been slow this week: work got in the way.

 

I have had to remove the reverser as I will not be able to get the backplate in place with it there, so the next job is to paint it up and perhaps re-pipe it. The fittings are cast into the backplate, so I may think about taking a break from this and ordering some separate items.

 

attachicon.gif001.JPG

 

Not far to go now.

 

attachicon.gif002.JPG

 

Photos of Maude and some other J36's taken in late BR days show a pipe coming through the spectacle plate on the driver's side and going up to some sort of fitting just below the whistle. I haven't found a clear photo of it. Does anybody know what it is please?

Hi David

 

Pretty certain off the top of my head it is the steam supply to the steam brake operating valve. There is a valve on the top of the boiler actuated by a T handled rod in the cab. There is one on the other side to for the carriage warming supply which was added to Maude in preservation days but is a direct copy of the arrangement fitted to power braked J36's in previous times.

 

Regards

Martin

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In the past I've had a lot of success of taking the cast backhead with all the fittings, taking it back to just being a blank backhead by cutting or filing off the fittings and just buying new injector and gauge glass etc brass castings.. It works quite well..

 

JB

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I`ve just found this topic. I built one of these a little while back, so it`s interesting to see someone else building one. I still have to apply the name transfers (always a last little thing that doesn`t get done!) which are for BYNG.

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I decided to knock together something resembling the steam brake supply pipe and valve. I used a 14BA screw, a 12BA washer two different sizes of tube, 0.4mm nickel silver wire and 0.8mm copper wire soldered together. I have no idea exactly what the real thing looked like but it will probably do.

 

post-13840-0-55538700-1427207287_thumb.jpg

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The main part of the assembly is complete. There is still the cab detailing to do, the cab roof to fix and of course lots of cleaning up. It's only when I looked at the photos that I realised just how much tidying is required. You will also see my error with the cab roof. I soldered the upper roof the wrong way round. I had a choice of separating the bits or marking out the other end and filling the location marks: I chose the latter. Hopefully the primer will cover my sins.

 

post-13840-0-20359500-1427207546_thumb.jpg

post-13840-0-36849900-1427207560_thumb.jpg

post-13840-0-08142400-1427207569_thumb.jpg

post-13840-0-65923400-1427207586_thumb.jpg

 

I will post some better photos when it's not dark!

 

David

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Good progress. 

 

The dome maybe looks a bit odd to me?  Base too fat, sides slope too much?  Maybe just the lighting or the contrast between whitemetal and brass?

 

Compare to:

http://www.srpssteam.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=21&pos=12

 

Regards,

26power

 

I decided to knock together something resembling the steam brake supply pipe and valve. I used a 14BA screw, a 12BA washer two different sizes of tube, 0.4mm nickel silver wire and 0.8mm copper wire soldered together. I have no idea exactly what the real thing looked like but it will probably do.

 

 

The main part of the assembly is complete. There is still the cab detailing to do, the cab roof to fix and of course lots of cleaning up. It's only when I looked at the photos that I realised just how much tidying is required. You will also see my error with the cab roof. I soldered the upper roof the wrong way round. I had a choice of separating the bits or marking out the other end and filling the location marks: I chose the latter. Hopefully the primer will cover my sins.

 

attachicon.gif

attachicon.gif006.JPG

 

I will post some better photos when it's not dark!

 

David

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Good progress. 

 

The dome maybe looks a bit odd to me?  Base too fat, sides slope too much?  Maybe just the lighting or the contrast between whitemetal and brass?

 

Compare to:

http://www.srpssteam.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=21&pos=12

 

Regards,

26power

I'm hoping that it's the lighting............

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I don't think that is the horse Alcazar that we're talking about as the loco that carried the name was built in the 1930s. I don't think that the horse that you have linked to will have much chance of getting a loco named after it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

OzzyO.

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