PaulCheffus

On 02/05/2023 at 07:31, ianwales said:

 

Hi Andy

 

What is the origin of the Polybulk please, its a different type the the Farish one?

 

Ian

Hi

Scratchbuilding is also an option if you want a 1/148 version.

Cheers

Paul

19 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Well I never not only has the news hit RMweb but the Daily Fail as well.

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-11998449/Punch-Judy-celebrate-Kings-coronation-axed-fears-inappropriate.html

 

 

Hi

It was also on Look North last week.

Cheers

Paul

6 hours ago, John M Upton said:

Lima was an odd example with their short lived N scale range. 

 

The Deltic and 31 were way too big, the range was padded out with continental wagons in BR colours (or rather, vague approximations there of) which were too small, the Mk 1 coaches were another completely different random scale and yet their CCT van was spot on and still holds up to this day, pizza cutter wheels notwithstanding. 

Hi

While the body is accurate the chassis on the CCT is not as for example the W -Irons have been stretched vertically.

I rebuilt mine with a scratchbuilt chassis

Cheers

Paul

Hi

These might be useful for the board joints

https://www.modeltech.uk/
 

Cheers

Paul

On 15/03/2023 at 14:21, scottystitch said:

Plus one.

 

Although I have been look at the 2mm Assoc and Worlsey Works etches...

 

Best

 

Scott.

Hi

Mine are a hybrid of Worsley Works kits, 2mm SA parts and my own castings.

Cheers

Paul

11 minutes ago, greenglade said:

Thought I'd show where I am with the workshop, sorry about the inverted image, I have no idea why this forum does this to my images. Hopefully, you can get an idea of what I'm up to.

 

Cheers

 

Pete

Hi

If taken with an Apple device then it depends on the orientation of the device when you took the photo. Try it with the device at 180 degrees to whatever orientation you used last time.

Cheers

Paul

2 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

We have had white, LNER steel body coaches but not white and red.

 

Doors will be scored and tiny bits of plastic glued on to look like hinges , handles and grabs.

Hi Clive

Depending on which model cutter you have you may be able to scribe the doors on or are you already doing that.

Cheers

Paul

7 minutes ago, rogerzilla said:

Any tips for fitting the headcode discs?  I can't actually see any holes in the body for them to push into.

Hi

The holes from memory are just below each light (the raised diamond shaped area)

Cheers

Paul

16 minutes ago, Covkid said:

 

Wow.  Just locos, or nothing at all ?

 

My modelling period is 1960-1975 so I have 4mm scale transition leanings.  I have paid for my manor and have my 31 on order even though I am more of a Sulzer 2 and 1 Co Co 1  bloke. 

21 tonners,  HUOs and Coil As in my stock boxes so far, and ordering more of these as well as a couple of Mk1 non corridors and a siphon.

 

I am sure all of this could go in the shrink ray machine

Hi

Absolutely nothing.

Cheers

Paul

2 hours ago, Accurascale Fran said:

So, let your N gauge friends know to tell us what they would like to see too, under the premise of what is in our existing 4mm range.

Hi

Therein lies the issue, I would like Accurascale to introduce an N gauge range, however, there currently isn’t anything in the OO range that interests me.

Cheers

Paul

7 minutes ago, monkeysarefun said:

OK, a question  for the dummies like me - but what is to stop those who have an interest in doing this from simply going to the nearest road or carpark and just finding a suitable victim, or is EVERYTHING shifting to solely online now, even numberplate fraud??

 

https://www.couriermail.com.au/news/queensland/bundaberg/warning-cover-up-your-number-plates/news-story/36e76e9fb5edddd23938b479a0ed6b43

 

(PS: If my ute is accused of crimes in the next couple of days, I'll know its one of you guys!) 

Hi

More effort required plus they need to find the same model, colour they want to use. The internet is much easier.

Cheers

Paul

2 hours ago, digger62 said:

Hi Bob

Many thanks for that. The NCE USB interface is like trying to find hens teeth. There doesn't seem to be any around in the UK and retailers don't know when they are likely to get further supplies. Also I'm not sure buying from the US is the answer due to postage and possible customs charges. Looks like the Sprog might be the way to go, but I see there are two different versions available, the Sprog II and the Sprog 3. Obviously the 3 is dearer, but is it the better option considering the higher price?

Mark

Hi

No connection with the seller but just noticed this

Cheers

Paul

18 hours ago, OnTheBranchline said:

For your bread machines, do you use all purpose flour or bread flour?

Hi

For making dough for bread buns I use very strong Canadian bread flour as I find it produces a dough that isn’t sticky and will all come out of the pan.

For loaves of bread I use very strong bread flour as it’s baked in the pan.

Cheers

Paul

3 minutes ago, Revolution Mike said:

Please let us know if anything is damaged and we will replace it. 

Hi

Should that be sent to the parts email address?

Cheers

Paul

Hi 

I used Vallejo paint when I did my master and the rivets came out very well on the finished item.

Cheers

Paul

13 hours ago, Davexoc said:

Could these problems be due in part to flange clearances?

Dapol seem to have recurring flange rubbing problems with the JHA O&K hoppers being the latest. I don't own many Dapol bogie vehicles, but the prototype HST dummy power car suffers, and I find the set is best propelled rather than hauled.

Hi

This is how I fixed mine

Cheers

Paul

Hi

I keep getting this advert at the top of the page. I’m using iPad iOS 16.2 and the default 2021 theme.

Cheers

Paul

Edit 

I’ve just realised this appears when I roll over an embedded advent in the thread like this one

15 minutes ago, bluedepot said:

fwiw I had two green half discs in my extras bag too

 

 

tim

Hi

i completely missed those, just had a look and there are three in there.

Cheers

Paul

On 13/01/2023 at 16:52, Roy L S said:

.

P.S. Yep, I'd have two at least.

 

 

Hi

I’d buy a lot more than two.

Cheers

Paul

2 hours ago, rogerzilla said:

Two of the ones in the pack are already green, I think.  Or are they supplying the same pack for all-green locos as for SYP?

Hi

Mine were all yellow with the green SYP.

Cheers

Paul

Hi Andy

A question if I may. Why aren’t the technical people doing all this on a test system then moving it to live once it’s working?

Cheers

Paul

On 26/12/2022 at 12:48, PhilJ W said:

The road, or roads with the double broken line have priority

 As above its the double broken lines that have priority. Looking at the road layout it is obvious that the main road would have priority anyway and the minor road coming in from the left should give way. If two vehicles arrived at the roundabout at the same time on the main road the 'give way to the right' rule would apply and any vehicle approaching from the bottom would have to give way.

Hi

How many mini roundabouts have you seen that are correctly marked? In the town near me I think there are two. All the others either have all entrances as give way or all single broken lines.

Cheers

Paul

Hi 

Mine worked from the start with the headlights directional on F0 and the taillights on F1 (CO end) and F2 (BO end).
 

Try doing a reset on the decoder first to see if you can get the same as the above.

When I get the chance I will take a proper look at the manual and see if I can work out what needs doing with the CVs to get F1 to operate the tail lights so they are directional.

Cheers

Paul

Hi

This is the manual for the Zimo decoders and the Bachmann decoder is basically the MX618N18

http://www.zimo.at/web2010/documents/DecoderSmall_151215_E.pdf

The manual supplied with the loco is irrelevant in this case as this is a non DCC loco that has been fitted with a Bachmann decoder.

Cheers

Paul

Hi

I’ve fitted the same in mine. Mine has directional headlights on F0 and tail lights on F1 or F2 depending on which end of the loco you are looking at. F2 for the taillight causes an issue though and the loco won’t move whilst F2 is on which I think is down the brake function as it appears to be on F2. Reading the manual for the decoder I think it’s possible to put the taillights on F1 and also to be directional but I’ve not had time to try this yet.

Cheers

Paul