Metr0Land

Glad you liked it!  It's always a worry when you 'hijack' someone else's thread.

I'm pretty certain it was Evo-Stik but it may have been Bostik - afraid I wasn't keeping copius records whilst I was experimenting with these and 'Tony Wright' couplings and some other bits and bobs.

Ooops for Class 104 read 105 of course.....

Hi Silver Sidelines, I hope you may be interested in my coupling mods.  I'm hoping to have 3' radius curves on my new layout and have been experimenting.  Obviously many people have to use tighter curves than 36" but you can probably move the couplings further outboard.

I experimented with some Bachman DMU couplings (sorry don't have part number but they're on eg the Class 104 DMU).

I took off the bottom part of the old Airfix coupling and glued the 'NEM box' of the Bachmann one underneath what was the top part of the Airfix coupling box.

This side on view shows the closer coupling arrangement and on the far left you can see an original coupling.

There's never an ambulance-chasing lawyer when you want one!

Let me say at the outset that I really have no idea about WW1 trains but are you saying you intend to have a green loco hauling grey wagons?

If so, that strikes me as odd.  Although camouflage was in its infancy, surely a train would be most likely NOT to attract attention from the opposition if it were uniformly coloured, ie all dull grey or all olive etc. A train with a different coloured loco on point would surely stick out from its surroundings more?

That soldier in khaki is amazing - nearly as real looking as the girl in 1st pic!

If you compare with phots, there's an infinite variety of patterns of coaches and NPCCS stock with bare aluminium showing through so you're on safe ground.

They look pretty good to me.  I'd be happy with that standard of build!

Afraid I can't help but it might be worth putting this under the 'Modelling Questions Help and Tips' heading as it'll probably disappear from the 'recent blog entries' area today.

For that harsh winter you'll need a 56 to haul some emus as happened in dire circumstances?

Am envious.

There's an American product called EZ Line which you can get in UK from Model Junction Slough (no connection other than as customer).  It has a few other options of size/colour depending on one's needs

http://www.modeljunction.info/estore/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=ez+line&osCsid=q5jqsjq60dl4pt3438gvrpk0b2&x=0&y=0

At least you've found out early in the process, so a good result of sorts!  One of the great things about this board is people are willing to show their mistakes as well as the good bits so hopefully others gain from your experience.

You could try this as an inexpensive way to trial printing.

Admittedly mine is 4mm/OO but I stumbled on this photo paper a year ago when I needed to do a diorama in a hurry.  Also mine is all brickwork and not scenery but it's a small outlay.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Adhesive-Photo-Paper-Pictures-Photos/dp/B003CY8O04/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1365772991&sr=8-9&keywords=chiltern+wove

I was half expecting the 'stickiness' not to last as that is often a case with sticky labels.  However, after a year the diorama shows no signs of peeling so I jumped in a did a load for my layout (post#42):

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/50822-aylesbury-junction/page-2

I've printed Scalescenes brickwork onto this paper and variously stuck it on MDF and 5mm foam board with success.

I'd agree that you get through blades in no time when cutting card and other stuff.  My approach is slightly different.  I have a metal Swann Morton scalpel handle which is 40+ years old, and use No.23 blades.

I can see that you can get the handles for a fiver or so on Ebay (not sure if these are metal or plastic). The non-surgical blades are cheap as well, so I have no worries about changing them a lot.

(I use No.23 blade as that's what I got used to in my 1st job in a laboratory - other blades are available!)

Got it. 

----DO NOT OVERLOAD------

|   WHEN WHITE LINES ON    |

|  SUSPENSION UNIT ALIGN  |

| WAGON IS FULLY LOADED |

-------------------------------------

Looks like the 2nd panel in shows MIN CURVE 50 METRES

For the 4 smaller lines in the last panel, the top line says Do Not Overload

Sorry can't read the rest

Don't forget the Thumpers in real life had longer spaces between coaches than say EPB stock.

That's brilliant.  Must admit I'd never thought of a 'triangular' link.  I have 2 fiddle yards at either end of layout enabling me to run more stock than the original one.

Access to my more recent yard is 'banned' to certain stock as it won't go round the tighter curve.  This may just give me a way of having a common type of coupling, varied for how the stock is utilised.

Very useful - I have class 105 to do myself.  Good quality pics as well.

Hi Silver Sidelines, afraid my memory was playing tricks. The HO (NMRA?) rule of thumb is 1oz per car, plus 1/2oz per inch which should make your stock easier to pull! (I have no inclines except where the track sags....)

I thought American HO modellers worked to an approximation of 1oz per inch of model (28gms - though 25gms makes it easier to calculate for some of us). In the practices I've had this works out a bit heavy for long coaches and a bit light for short vehicles sometimes.

However, I have taken to buying lead shot. If you put this in cling film or small plastic bags, you can squeeze it into odd shaped places depending on what's available in the model.

Wow indeed. Although this model is not exactly my tasse de thé, it does show what's possible in terms of items the big boys may never get round to.