Barnaby

RED, WHITE & Blue I thought it was you ------- Daz. I have some "how to's" copied from your Shaftesbury layouts posts the quick way to spray paint your track using Sleeper Grime and Red Rust spray cans. Copied from P6 of your Shaftesbury posts sadly the links are now out of date but I still have my page copies for my ref. Best

The build is excellent Mike it keeps giving. Best wishes with your hospital check up tomorrow. Regards

Wow that's quite unique 37114, brilliant. Best

One to watch. Good luck Darren enjoy the new build. Best

Hello Steve, thanks for punching out a "down memory lane" to place the layout firmly in reality. I /we used to do something similar from a bridge using it as access to place pennies on the track to get big flat ones after a loco passing. Ahh memories. Best

Nice work Rod those point kit really are the business. Looking forward to the soon to be made video of the new track getting a test run through. I'm with you on the aged body "canna do it Captain" all that bending down to climb under the board has to be kept to a minimum these days. I have just obtained the Cobalt surface mount point motors and I'm in the process of making up a swing down control board to hold all the terminations and PCB's. Regards

Yes I did wonder Alan as after I'd used your picture number to do a google search and found nothing suitable I looked closer and saw that the couplings had a lincs fitted. That made me think that they were photos of your own models. I have tried to photo mine but I took them at different times and there is no uniformity between them, I think I need to note down my settings and use them each time. I'll start with re-photographing the wagons I have to hand and start from that as at the moment my photos are a right mix of odds and sods, different angles, different sizes etc. I still have my layout to complete its build but I am already planning my next layout, a micro in about 8ft which is typical of me grasshopping about and not finishing any thing off. Thanks for the FB. I'll look forward to a video of you shunting on "Wilne Lane Yard", oh yes indeedy. Regards

Hello woodyfox. I look forward to following your "busy times". Best

Hi Alan super modelling as is the norm here. Just as an aside where did you find your source of wagon photos from? I'm just about to add the wagon details for a google search. Bets

Beautiful work Ade your layout is progressing marvellously. Great to hear your joint work life is working out very well too. Best

Your enjoyment shows clearly in your work Rod very good. The mirror tool is a smart way to check for alignments and is one technique I use when critical aligns are required. I don't remember where I got it from but I have been doing it since the 70's, maybe it was the mrj as Simon mentions but I recall it more from my work environment. Best

I've got the tie bars [Greenwood Models] and I will add a photo here as promised above. I want to replace my peco point tie bars as they have got a bit too nibbled in multi use. They're not quite what I expected but they will work and look better.. Basically what Mike has done is to supply a thin wood strip shaped and drilled appropriately with some small pins to solder to the blades. The pins are headed so that when fitted from under the bar they will not pull out. They are then bent over and soldered into the web of the blade being sure to leave no float "up" gap on the blade. If I'm not successful I will try a thin strip of copper clad with an insulation gap in the middle, but of course they will not have any free twist between the bar and blades unlike the pins will. Keep up the point track laying Rod it's looking very good. Photo to follow see below. EDIT Looking at these they appear to be the same as Rod has with the full kits and I note that he has reversed the procedure for soldering the blades to the pins. That actually seems a easier and better way to install and ensure that there isn't any blade float up, I could also add some split washers to take up any float on the underside of the tie bar if there is any. ll

Rob said: "The other thing it does is give time to assess what you are doing generally and I have given a fair bit of thought to Dons comment re atmosphere, a comment much appreciated, and after considerable thought I have come to the conclusion that I haven't got a clue what gives a model atmosphere," I think you do know Rob, the answer is in your ending sentence:........... "been waiting for a delivery of small detailing items, quayside bollards, ladders, lifebuoys etc, which all arrived today giving a further boost to the modelling effort." Looking forward to following the ongoing build in the world as seen through the eyes of Rob. Best

That 37 looks like a Dragon poking its snout out of its cave, wonderful. Best

Hillport Goods is a fabulous looking layout Steve. Did you ever get around to making a video of a shunt sequence, one to view would be very nice plus an end to end walk while filming? I'd never thought about using some of the bigger wagons like you have done because of wanting to keep the size down. However you use of the point in the fiddle plank stick is allowing me to move my plan about to ensure I have enough room on run around's etc. The trouble is my new plan is overtaking me finishing off my existing one. Best

Yes I agree with the "W" ref and follow them myself as I find that in general life they solve most issues i come across. I also have added which into the "W" group and never understood why he hadn't included it. If i remember correctly wasn't it Rudyard Kipling who stated those words in one of his books through my young life, fantastic they were too. I read most of his books starting with Rikki Tikki Tavi the mongoose, they still have all the right ingredients to keep you reading till late at night. Mike If I can achieve a fraction of your build skill and presentation I will be happy. Best stay safe

Looking good Mike. Yes a little more height would be better even maybe double the present but it is difficult to assess from the photo. Is that photo taken at the expected viewing height? Regards

Hello Andy 7ms will be sorely missed by all readers on here including yourself . I'm sure it will be speedily purchased and off to pastures new to blaze some new adventures. Best

Those photos headed "busy times at Charlie's Yard" are spot on I have taken a copy of them for my ref file because the level of detail is both exquisite and typical of such a location. You show just how much detail you can add without it appearing awkwardly over populated if done carefully. Great work Dave.

Hello Rod, we won too. I had a telecon with Mike last Wednesday in part to discuss his tie bars as I need some to replace the ones in my multi-used and a bit scarred Peco points. He said he was in the process of changing their make up and would send me the new style when he returned to his workshop Friday. I'll check them out when they arrive tomorrow and post a picture on here for you to view. He's altered the pin make up and fitment after some feed back so may be relevant here. Regards

Well said Andi, says it all. My take is similar in that I use a piece of flat-bottom guttering with a length of Peco track secured in it. I'm an 0 gauger but my train lengths are only about 1 mtr max. I may make some loco sections up and use bulldog clips in the manner said by Andi. Having the smaller track sections would make for less loco handling, just unclip the bulldogs and remove/ replace the loco section but it will require me to add some electrical connections if I do. Longer length trains may need some extra stiffening between the track and guttering but it works fine for me at these lengths. The guttering does offer protection and ease of movement for me, I slide and spin in the fiddle yard, it works well for me. To stop a great escape from the gutter-track I use plastic pivoting handles that double as a train stop when down, one on each end and when raised as handles for lifting away. As they say necessity is the mother of invention. Best

Wow those trees are very good Steve. Despite me spending some considerable time looking I still cannot find a bear anywhere. Best

Thanks for your reply JBM. I see your fiddle area will take a full size big loco or an 08 and a couple of wagons. I've been been sketching up a few layout ideas based on the 8 x 2 format and like you i find i may need to add a extra bit to the length diddle diddle dum of the yard. I'm working to a fiddle length of 32 inches which only leaves 5 ft & a bit for shunting but with a full 8ft run in front of the fiddle yard building from end to end. I haven't finished my sketches just yet so they are not on my forum page plus I've yet to finish my present layout build first. Here's what I'm thinking just now. My thinking is to enter from the left, not sure which track and the fiddle shed is open for my access from the rear with a canopy off the shed over the front track. That makes the building 32 inches long by some 18 inches wide. Wagons will disappear inside while I will hand empty or re-load inside shed for the wagons to be made ready for leaving. That's what is proving a pain as I can't enter from off stage and return to off stage after delivering or loading. I think I need to have my off stage area and my shed set on the 8ft+ diagonal/ Thanks again.

Hello JBM some interesting concepts and workings here. A couple of other things caught my interest to, 1/ I'm a fellow scouser but now living down in Worcestershire so anything with Liverpool in it catches my eye and is a must read & 2/ from my read through I see your expansion has been thwarted but the station mistress and you are building to 8ft x 2ft in 0gauge. That just so happens to be what I have concluded is a best size for me too. Is it possible for you to show another photo of the complete layout and fiddle yard intentions as I'm always keen for any ideas and how the smaller planks will operate. Best

Hello I've not got much further with my house build [model] as I show previous and not much happening on my layout either. I'm prepping my point work ready to accept the the Cobalt SS 6-pack point motors, they are very small but work perfectly. I'm developing a hinge down component board to make it easier to work on. The individual point motors will be fitted along side each point connecting directly to the TIE bar with the control Pcb mounted on the hinge down board. All the wiring to the points and mimic board will come from and to here. I found a new model supplier from a mention Rod [Dmudriver on here] gave him as a kit source of Peco point replacement parts. He does have some great items on his web site and well worth a visit. Greenwood Models he is called. >>> https://greenwoodmodelrailwayproducts.co.uk/ I've ordered some replacement TIE bars off him as they look very good and will improve my connection to the point motors as my Peco points have been installed a couple of times now and the existing TIE bars are a little cut up & tatty. I have been looking for an 0 gauge re-railer and he does a flat pack one of those too, so I purchased one. Best