jimwal

Or what about a scale length jib?. Due to the taper it doesn't seem feasible to lengthen the existing jib. Then everything else can be right. The carriage is the correct length and as Jon says the bogies can be altered.

Pairs of class 15s (and 16s) worked the Southminster to Mile End sand trains. I don't know weather they worked the Marks Tey to Mile End sand trains, maybe this location was considered too far given these locos' proven unreliability.

Many thanks Tony for a thoroughly enjoyable day on behalf of all three of us! Jim

Hi Clive, As you know I've done some Airfix LMS cut and shuts but only the more straightforward ones. I couldn't face all the filling and cleaning up with so many bits so I have to admire you for going that way. More recently I've been using Comet sides on Airfix donors, cheap second hand and accurate roof profile. There's plenty of modelling to be had in making the interiors, adding details and underframes. The Replica seven and half compartment SO appears more accurate than the Comet one on which the compartments are smaller and the doors further from the coach corners. You probably know already but I've got to say; many of the post war coaches had BR style window vents and the porthole CKs had a different body profile. Jim

Info would be appreciated here as well. I have done the same as John. Now need to make the trestle, a rather longer job I think.

Can't show my meal 'coz I've eaten it!!

At least it is not rusting Clive. Restore the door details and you're almost there!. Save the toilet filler handrails for something else, the BGs had straight ones like the suburban coaches. The door windows need slight increase in size if I remember rightly.

I think the Airfix bogies aren't bad and they are made of nylon type plastic so don't wear. To cure the slop in the pivots I remove the bogies and glue the split pin in from the top with the legs set across the width of the coach. The countersink in the top of the underframe needs opening out to allow the pin head to go in far enough. When glue has set clip the bogies back on.

Hi Clive, If your stove R body is correct length then semi scratchbuild the unerframe. Cut down a spare coach u/f as the buffers are correct for the six wheeler and you're well on the way! it will probably be easier than the jib runner. As others have said the Triang/Hornby van is a compromise, so-so as it is but better to replace rather than improve.

The Hornby 6 wheel vans have a 10'+10' wheelbase and length over headstocks of 30' rather than the 31' of the the stove R. Cutting and shutting the Airfix/Dapol coaches is a quick way of producing the body and underframe. Comet (via Wizard Models) do the other u/f parts, they also do a complete kit. Avoid the Hornby Magazine model, it is far too wide; 10' over the duckets! against 9' of the real thing. It also has undersize wheels, derails easily and has a few strange details. I spent too long putting these right on the one I've got.

Do the one that you'll put glazing in!

Just discovered this thread. If any of the plastic gears are slipping on the axles check for splitting. Sometimes there will be a definite 'clonk' every wheel revolution and the gear that has split is easily found. Other times the loose gear needs close inspection to find out if it has split. Jim

Definitely an X04 motor, a late production by the look of most of it. The worm is a coarse single start and used in the 0-4-0s until replaced with first of the various can motor designs. Hornby left out the felt bearing pads, the bearing plate by the magnet by this time was steel, it was aluminium previously and brass before that. The armature looks older, the later ones had green epoxy type insulation around the steel stampings. So I imagine it has been replaced at some time. Hornby's cost cutting made a good motor of its time into a poor one in later years.

Weak magnet? Many Dublo motors were prone to magnetic loss if dismantled, the ringfields particularly so.

I placed a reply on the other thread you started before seeing this. Basically oil up all bearings and gears as indicated in the loco booklets of the time. After near sixty years the lubricant will have dried out. I, for one enjoy your photo editing, it looks very good and puts todays models into a setting many of us may never create as a layout. I believe you indicate when you have edited a picture, people don't have to look at them if they don't like them! Jim

You may have answered your own question!. After sixty years the lubricant will have dried out. As well as the motor bearings lubricate the gears, axle bearings and motion. Do not oil the brushes and commutator. 3 in 1 or cycle oil is fine for these older mechanisms. Jim

The 'Fat Controller' diet is for obese 'Thomas' fans.

Back in the seventies I had several S/D maroon coaches and some brown/cream ones. They all had variations in their liveries, they seemed prone to fading particularly the maroon ones. Those shown looked to have faded, this may have misled the person writing the description. A few of my coaches went a similar way and two went orangey, almost LNER teak!. The brown/cream suffered rather less. The shed the railway was in had no windows (better security) but had a translucent roof for light. I realised too late what a colour killer this was.

The front screw is the one. The weight inside is loose so be aware it doesn't drop out and hit you on the foot!

Clive, you make it sound as if our meetings at Keith's consisted of unreliable running and people who had little interest other than take the mickey out of you!. Ok, your diesels may have held less interest to many, which is why I rarely brought diesels to run. Colin G probably had more micky taking as his locos seemed to run poorly or not at all. Stock I take runs with rarely any derailments and generally creates discussion. Obviously it needs to be kit built, converted or altered in some way rather than pure RTR stock. Items also needs to be reasonably complete so as to be identifiable even if they are not 100% finished. We all have the mick taken at times, its all in jest, don't take it to heart Clive!

Yes ian, later in the day at a show when things start to get a bit too warm. I was actually referring to club nights Clive attended before he moved.

Clive, to paraphrase an old saying: 'A watched train never derails'. You must have remembered that from Monday nights!. On another matter, some Southend and Southminster (the latter after May '86) trains were 12 car in the peak. Jim.

In my experience, no. The magnets are much more permanent than older open frame types. Even with these I have stored them stuck together by their opposite poles with no ill effect. If you buy a number of magnets at the same time they will be stuck together like this anyway. So I'd say its fine. Jim.

Or is the conduit routed differently?. An after-market etched plate set may be the icing on the cake.

Hi Clive, I agree with you regarding the modelling magazines. 'Staff projects' and lots of weathering articles suggest a difficulty in finding enough content for each issue. Sometimes what modelling there is, isn't very good or is poorly researched so what's the point?. MRJ normally has better standards certainly in the modelling. We can aspire to this even if we don't always achieve it, I think this usually makes it a worthwhile read. You have scratch built all that Geoff has, plus you've done locos, I don't think he has. So you can connect with the plastic modelling. It may be the etched metal stuff you feel is outside your comfort zone. It does not matter, work with what suits you. By the way, you can have P4 track on an 00 layout: 60' panels on 'Salmon' wagons, the track is still on view when the train is running. Jim