rcmacchipilot

Is that because a beyer garrat has alot of pulling power yet is really high maintenance and enecenomical ? ill get my coat

Frankly, it depends what time period you want to model. If its an era with bullhead track, then both the C and L and the new peco look great. DCC concepts also has a stainless steel version as well. Modern era stuff means that flat bottom is completely viable, but frankly I think the sleepers on the peco are too close together. Overall I would go with the bullhead. 

Please publish an article on stour valley when you finish it... cause its going to be a damn good looking layout if fen end pit is anything to go by.

I'm pretty certain I still have a copy of that issue. I bought it because I had seen the layout on here and wanted to add it to my reference list of good layouts . Was /Is a good read.

looking good. definitely build another , this one is awesome.

better at it? I looked at the boiler and thought you were using transfers. I think you have done a pretty damn spiffy job

I just built a couple of these. I would have a look at how Bachmann's current offering has an area around the axle box cut out of the running boards, If you haven't contemplated modifying the kit. Also, its really easy to add hand rails to the kit, If you have time I would consider doing it, as it really adds another dimension to the kit. I can take some photos of mine for you if you are interested.

PVA thinned with water and a paint brush (a cheap one with a reasonably fine head)worked really well when I did mine. Next one I do however will be a case of having all the track ready first in one hit, and then doing the glue, track and ballast in one hit. It takes preparation but is faster in the long run I think.

this layout looks verry good. You.have.done a very good job on it and I have enjoyed reading your blogs. with the frogs and the wheels dropping down on your next layout I would re examine your back to backs and turnout geometry. a proper turnout should support the wheel all the way through the frog and never ride on the rim. given your evident skill in your work so far you should consider making your own turnouts.

owen

excuse the spelling as this is being sent from my mobile

I don't model S7 and never have the space, but $20 pound membership with a magazine each quarter sounds like good value... even better if you can buy things for cheaper.

Regarding the hole in the break leaver, is it possible to plug it up with some round stick styrene. Good job fixing what I agree is a very poor model for something that is twice the size of OO.

I say to my partner that theres no harm in modelling more than one gauge either ... still waiting for the green light to go OO9.

I know this is going back a bit, but I came back to have a look at your painting of this van today, as I just finished knocking one together. I think its a pretty decent kit.

More please.

Also lovely building too. and lighting.... and story.... and pictures ...... : D

I think its worth getting your rolling stock and running the trains around for a bit. Actually give the designs a run to see what the advantages and disadvantages are. A temporary uncoupling pole can be made from some wire shaped into an L, if you want to try shunting and running around.  I think it was two breweries line in issue 60 of Hornby magazine showed what is possible with set track. (some one please correct me if I am wrong about the issue number)

Also on a side note, I started where you are now about 4 years ago. There is plenty of good advice on this forum. I also know that there will be a number of challenges ahead as you want more out of your railroad and you want it to evolve. Feel free to PM me any time you have a question.

If I may, I can also recommend 2 really good books by Iain Rice, realistic railroad modelling (an excellent book that gives you some really good solid info to get you started in most aspects of the hobby, written extremely well, It also has an excellent section on couplings to get your grey matter going) and shelf modelling for model railroaders (its for American layouts, but the thoughts and concepts in tackling a railroad are excellent). There is also another one on realistic layout design which I believe is also very good, however I haven't had a chance to read it.

I wish you all the best of luck in your endeavour.

In terms of wiring advice, there is plenty on the DCC concepts website as well, which is well explained and there are plenty of diagrams.

Excellent. I will be eagerly awaiting further instalments . I really like a good somerset and dorset layout.

This looks exciting. Correct me if I am wrong, but the aim here us to capture the Somerset and Dorset?

Wonderful Julia. You have a real eye for scenery and making everything blend in naturally. Tell me, how did you do your fences? they look fantastic

Owen

you know its good looking when you struggle to tell that it isn't a larger scale .

Hi Sigtech.

I have had experience with both dinghams and kadees. As far as height goes, dinghams, knuckle couplers and indeed any coupler need to be set up accurately to get accurate coupling, so there is no real argument there for either of the two.

On to the couplings. Previously I had fitted both hooks of the dinghams to each end of the locomotive. If you are operating fixed rakes, then both ends of the rake get a loop coupler and problem solved. Although if you want to double head you are going to have to fit three links onto both ends of a locomotive so that they can couple up to each other. The problems come when you are trying to break up and make up goods formations. When this is the case you basically need loops on both ends of all your goods stock and the reliability goes down a bit. Also getting the delayed uncoupling to work in my opinion is a bit of a pain in the arse. It is do-able however but you need to have good technique with the soldering iron for it to work. Finally if you go down this route the brass needs to be polished to a high sheen almost to get rid of any friction as it becomes really difficult for it to work. The advantage's over the kadees however is the magnetic system is much more straight forward, and frankly they look awesome too by far the most realistic automatic coupler for 4mm.

Kadees loose the looks that dingham provide but frankly I feel that once set up they negate the dingham issues. Note that dingham couplers also have the potential to buffer lock on tight curves that don't have a transition curve when propelling. Food for thought.

Also worth looking at (Sorry to muddy the waters ) are Alex Jackson, Sprat and winkle and D&G couplers. All these offer a delayed uncoupling service.

If you are not worried about delayed uncoupling there is another option and that is to fit an iron arm to the back of the tension lock uncoupler. This means that the tension lock uncoupler can be operated with magnets.  Have a look at automatic magnetic uncoupling for shunting layouts on youtube.

Hope that was helpful.

Owen

Sasquatch how did you cut out the disk so well?

I have been following this blog for a while now. Your track work is looking fantastic. cant wait to see more

lovely work. please keep posting as this looks like it will be an interesting blog to follow.

im guessing you use an airbrush. what paints do you apply when? to get the finsih that you have?

If i may ask, what is your ballast / rail - sleeper paint combination? it looks quite good.