jcm@gwr

Hi Andrew, If you are going to use 'No Nails', I would suggest that you use the interior grade. 2 reasons, it is solvent-free [no nasty fumes inside] and it is [iMHO] easier to use, ie doesn't 'skin' so easily. Also, try 'Sticks Like' by 'Evostick', very good. Jeff

And what's wrong with 'S', 'T' & 'Z' scales/gauges I ask? [tongue firmly pressed in cheek!]

Totally agree!

Wow Dave, This is a brilliant thread for a great idea. It's really starting to look like a layout that's had a lot more than £100 spent on it! Looking at your posters I would suggest a north London based layout, [broadfields was based in Cockfosters and used to be the premier Triumph dealer in the area] Looking forward to tomorrow, Jeff

I think if you were to make another board [either as an extra, or an alternative] and have it do a 90* turn. That way you have more flexibility when going to shows. ie you could fit into/go round corners. That should make you more 'user-friendly' with show organisers. Just a thought, Jeff

You should be shot, putting that on here

You're just saying that to make me jealous! Jeff

Well, being a biased, I would like to travel in a Super Saloon, height of luxury and opulence from the GWR. Also, nice and light with those big windows. preferably behind a Castle. Jeff

Is that from the same 'think tank' as "Ears pierced while you wait"! Jeff

I think you need to go back a bit in time to find the best 'looking' loco. In my opinion the Achilles class [as built] takes some beating. Jeff

When you hear how 'accurate' their S4/P4 layout is, ask them if the signal arms are scale thickness!

And what's wrong with that! Jeff

I'm with you on that one Jules Colin, good thread, keep going with the updates, it's nice to follow a story. Jeff

Just to check if anybody is watching Orbit on BBC2 right now, Kate Humble & 2 nice friends are presenting at this very moment! Jeff

I think that, as the Dynamis is infra-red, an old TV remote [iR type] would cause some interesting situations to occour! Of course, I'm not suggesting anyone tries this, well not while anyone is looking! Jeff

Of course, there is always the option of a Lego layout [touted as finescale!]

Hi Chris, I would avoid the Hornby six wheeled units, they are extremely crude to say the least. I know that MARC Models does a conversion for these, but I'm not sure if the underframe is available seperately. [He also uses the same unit to improve the Stove R] It has a quite clever method for setting up different wheelbases, with a floating centre axle for troublefree running on tighter radii curves. Jeff

I would have thought, if you were on your own, the raucous laughter would most certainly keep them out!

I'll second that! Great photo's of a great layout. Cheers, Jeff

I am also a keen S&W user, the other way to 'blacken' the brass etches [for anything] is to use a permanant marker, this works fine and doesn't interfere with the operation. I've also made up [for my F-in-Law] and fitted Dinghams in 7mm, a bit more fiddly than 3 / 4 mm S&W. I also made a couple up in 4mm, not fun, but they did work! If you look at the other thread running at the moment on here [also about couplings] There is a link to a Swedish coupling called the TB Coupling, they look like an early, simple version of S&W, but can work either from top or bottom [link to loop]. Personally I like S&W because I think they are discreet and reliable, with regard to the mounting plate I use it because it gives consistancy in fitting and it's easier to batch build a load ready, without lots of bits laying around. Cheers, Jeff

Hi 6959, I don't think I can answer your question, but just to clarify, I assume you mean 6-wheel bogies, not a 6 wheel coach? Jeff

I went to see Ready, Steady, Cook the other day. It was fantastic. Antony Worrall Thompson absolutely stole the show!

Just bought a raffle ticket to win a cruise in the Med. Last weeks was a rollover......................................

It's an interesting problem as to which system is best, it is very subjective. The factors involved include looks, strength, reliability, etc . One of the down sides of the Dingham is they are 'handed', ie all stock has to be facing the same way, but they are quite discreet and reliable. [if you think they are difficult to assemble, you should try the 4mm ones!] S & W are certainly effective in 4mm, [haven't tried 7mm] and can look good. If you go down the T/L route I'm assuming that you will do the Brian Kirby mod and use magnets. The other option is Kadee, but in my opinion they don't look right on wagons, ok on coaches. Then you have the problem of different couplings for each type of loco [freight or passenger]. I did see an article on a clever system using an eccentric on the axles which allowed you to uncouple anywhere by simply giving the coupling some slack, this allowed it to work where ever it took your fancy! Of course, there will eventually be a DCC auto system, it all depends on your timescale and budget. Good luck, Jeff

Well, I hope nobody took that the wrong way! But they [Pendon] are the first to admit that although the buildings are 'spot on' scale models of exact originals, they are not in the same place or groups as the originals. A bit like Constable used to do with his composition of his landscape paintings! i.e. they both shuffled things around to make it more attractive to the eye, but that doesn't detract from the quality of the workmanship. Cheers, Jeff