Izzy

Do it again after a decent break to allow all to recover? On an ad-hoc basis of as/when possible for those concerned rather than as a fixed timescale event. Less pressure that way (possibly). I have believed for a considerable number of years that get-togethers/shows/open days (call it what you will) like this and similar to the EMGS/S4 and 2mm SA 'expo' find favour with many because of the friendly and open nature they provide. Less pure exhibition and more exchange of ideas/information and just general chat. Whether any trade is present is a very secondary consideration. Pleased it went so well, always satisfying and rewarding when it does. Izzy

On a purely personal level, having just recently returned to doing a bit of 4mm/P4 modelling after a few decades, and previously using PD 7mm kits in the 90's, I am pleased/relieved/grateful that PD kits in any form will continue to be produced whether the range increases/decreases/stays the same. Far better than disappearing completely never to be seen again as has happened with others. Izzy

Are these the geared wheels for the power bogie or the pin-point split-axle ones, or both? The latter are all-steel on a muff while the former are steel on anodised aluminum axles. I'm afraid I haven't use Casey blue on either type at present, but it does react differently to being used on brass/nickel plated wheels ( mostly what Farish/Dapol wheels are). Can't work out why the rust type result unless there has been a reaction with the glue used on the power bogie types. Izzy

I'm afraid everything fades over time, just that the materials used with archive type classed stuff is supposed - treat it with caution - to take more time to do so. Sprays/varnish that resist fading just slow down the process. Some printer inks and papers are meant to do the same, but whether they make a real difference, erm, only time will tell....... Izzy

I would wire it in exactly the same way as if you were using micro-switches to change the frog polarity. In other words exactly as stated in your first post, isolated from other track with the outer rails each powered from the bus. All the autofrog really does is replace the micro-switches by changing the frog polarity as required when a short is detected as stock runs through it and the polarity is not correct for what is needed. Izzy

I'm a bit puzzled by the shot of the motor innards showing the windings shell and armature without the main shaft. Did it come off the shaft due to the excessive heat generated? Otherwise this might be the root cause of the problems since of course it should be locked onto the shaft. Izzy

Thanks Jerry, I knew it had been done succesfully by a few so that's good to know. As these seem to be newer models perhaps Farish have moved to a harder/HMP mazak mix that takes machining better. It would be useful if they have. Izzy ..... just thought I would add that Bachmann/Farish wheel castings are nickel plated mazak. Since Nickel doesn't stick too well to mazak this means an under- layer of copper plating is laid down first. So two harder layers to cut through before reaching the generally softer mazak beneath, (to explain the comments above).

Having tried adding 2mm rims to GF wheel castings - I believe it has been done - and ending up with a number of wrecked castings I would second Nigel's advice about finding another way. The mazak is very 'buttery' (akin to whitemetal) so while skimming off the back and fronts is okay and quite do-able, taking enough off the outer rims to fit new 2mm rims is awkward because there usually just isn't enough material left to take the stress, and the spokes collapse. Izzy

Hi Justin, Making button type washers is cetainly one way of doing it, but if you just use separate washer spacers then you can make individual ones to suit the rail head width of the particular rail being used, and swop them about without having to re-make the whole gauge, the rest of it staying the same. Sometimes much is made of the particular code of rail being used without appreciating that this only refers to the total rail height in thou's and not what the head width might be. Izzy

Might I suggest that making gauges up as Hayfield describes using a lathe - roller gauges from individual parts - is probably the easiest way and overcomes parting tool width issues as mentioned in the code 55 roller gauge thread. Just really a series of washers of varying widths and diameters held together with a bolt it enables adjustments/alterations to gauge and flange/crossing sizes - remaking the individual parts as needed rather than making a new gauge from scratch, and the making of a few at a time, batch production of the various 'washer' sizes. It also enables both track and flange/crossing nose gauges to be produced. Izzy

If you throw the blades via a switch on the control panel linked to the megapoints board then fitting DPDT ones will allow one side to act as an on/off switch for the paired switch, so that when thrown one way the other switch won't energise it's servo. If the 3-way point is a tandem though, then the blades will be far enough apart that this isn't needed. Only with assymetrical 3-ways does the problem arise. Izzy

If it uses Slaters wheels, which I would have thought it would, then can't they just be removed in the normal way since they attach via allan key screws? I presume if there is outside brake rigging this might have to come off first, but I can't think of an obvious issue with removing the wheels/axles, or have more changes/'adaptions' been made during the construction perhaps? If you can manage it a photo of the loco/chassis might help illustrate/reveal any problems. Always an issue with pre-owned stuff that's made from a kit/scratchbuilt. No two peoples standards are quite the same, or the methods/standards with which they are put together. So it's often fraught with problems such as these. Izzy

No easy answer is there? Izzy

All you've got to do now is make the rest match...... Izzy

Yes, power switching/routing using the set of the points to control which sections of track are powered ( Kylestrome's first dia) is good for DC and DCC non-sound - saves section switches - and either system can be 'plugged in' and used, but falls down when sound locos are used. If you convert Kyle - easily done I would think - you'll have to fit sections switches for future DC use unless it's one engine only as they will all move together........... Izzy

Having read that you are using Seep's and using the switch on them to change frog polarity I suspect that one of them may be the issue. I have had then not move properly and short out one way if the moving bits get bent out of shape. Not the most reliable of designs IMHO. I would suggest that you disconect all the feeds to the switch contacts - you need to do both rather than just cut feed to the frog (because the short might be through the switch and not to the frog), see if that solves the basic problem of power to the track. If it does then re-connect the polarity switch feeds one at a time until the culprit is found. Slow work but might find the issue without wholesale ripping up of the track which may not be needed. Izzy

Hi Pete, If you are going to run sound equiped diesels - I think I remember reading you will be - then you need to ensure all individual track sections are powered at all times for continuous sound/ease of use. So add feeds to all the sections, but make sure all point crossings/frogs are isolated. I find it best to just treat each piece of track as an individual section, and as we don't use fishplates in 2FS, you can lay each piece of plain track or point as one unit/section. Means more feeds, but easier if like me you just slap the track down on d/s tape before ballasting as you can lay/wire/test each bit as you go. I have redrawn your plan to show what I mean. Hope it helps. cheers, Izzy

Hi John, I have only ever used the pb bearings, and I believe these are what the etched chassis kits are designed to use. From the size difference - photo attached - I think using the larger bearings would be quite difficult given their size in both thickness and diameter, gear clearance re alignment etc. Anyway, hope this helps. Izzy

In the past I have never treated my card build buildings with anything, but tonal fading and issues with odd spots of water causing damage over time mean I now treat all printed card with Ghiant Inkjet fix matte areosol before construction. This does produce a very slightly deeper/richer tone but the card/paper stays nice and matt. It also seems a bit tougher, particulary the thinner A4 label sheets I use for home produced ink-jet printed sheets. It's not cheap, but is I feel worth it. Izzy

I thought the workbench offer was interesting until I saw the size - A4. Might be okay for some but rather restrictive, i.e. couldn't use a standard 12" ruler with it for cutting. Now if it had been A3....... Izzy

Hi Steven, Could it be a connection issue somewhere? One of the leads with broken wires inside, either t,he power supply or the usb, or the actual usb port on the notebook? Something that will work one time but not another. Might be worth checking given the works fine one time /then not the next situation. Izzy

Hi Michael, I am pleased you found it useful, thank you. Both the Jinty and 4F use the etches produced some years back for the older Graham Farish locos - 3-205 replacement nickel-silver coupling rods for GF locos. I find them easier to use as they are a bit more 'meatier' than newer versions which I appear a bit too clumsy to use and end up bent and distorted! The only issue is the crankpin holes are larger than the normal 0.5mm 2mmSA crankpins. This either means they are a bit more sloppy, which I have not found a particular issue, but I have also just used 0.7mm hard brass wire filed down at one end to 0.5mm to fit into the wheels. It sounds very crude but works okay. These days I cut crankpin retainers from Albion Alloys small brass tube which is available in a range of useful sizes - i.e. 1mm OD/0.5mm ID, 0.9mm OD/0.45mm ID, 0.8mm OD/0.4mm ID and so on. The first is handy for use with the crankpins, but the smaller ID's can be drilled out to suit. These can also be used to bush the rods. There is a wide range of size combinations. As regards DCC and circuit boards I find those in locos without lights seem to cause problems with decoder motor performance while those with don't. I haven't a clue why, but I now always remove the boards in these cases as it often gives extra room for other tasks. I only ever use CT or Zimo these days. regards, Izzy

I have just done the same re-jig of the handrails on a 65477. Well worth the effort. Having also converted it to P4 I would warn that you might find the space under the footplate limited for both wheel and coupling rod clearance. Burrs and a mini-drill come in very handy............. Izzy

Although the running qualities could be quite okay, with some of the better decoders, Zimo, CT, etc there are many extra options like reducing the lighting output levels etc that you might want to change or experiment with. That just with plain decoders. If you get into sound then that's another level again. I personally wouldn't want any DCC system where I couldn't read/write CV's as a basic function. Izzy

I would suggest that if you stick with/use Zimo's and dial in a moderate amount of acc/dec - I usually use around the 30 mark but basically anywhere between 20-50 - then using 28ss is no problem because the performance is better than many other decoder makes can give on 128ss, indeed with button control it is easier. I now believe that using Zimo or CT decoders is really a no brainer over the long term. Izzy