Izzy

I would suggest that as you have a limited budget at present then your first option of getting a Sprog seems the best in the longer term at the moment since it will still be of use when you do upgrade to a better specified system when funds permit. Many such as myself prefer to use one to set up and program decoder installs even when other systems are available simply because of the ease of use via JMRI/decoder pro + laptop. If you do choose to get one and it will be mainly for this and also as a back-up system then the Sprog II should be sufficient. Although it's rated at 1amp for normal use this is more than enough, even with a few sound decoders going at once. Generally power supply issues with DCC systems arise when users want to run lots of accesories off the DCC bus such as points/signals/servos etc. Izzy

Sorry, just a thought, meant to add it to my previous post that as you are DCC adding a stay-alive would most probably cure any running issues re pick-up, always assuming there is space inside. They are quite cheap and easy to make yourself so long as the decoder has the connection wires/pads to add them. Several of the Zimo decoders have the circuitry on board - mainly the sound versions MX645/MX644D etc. Izzy

They do look nice. I am sure there are many exGE region modellers like me who wished they had produced the earlier version that ran there, and especially at their current price. Ah well....... Izzy

Yes. I have a TTS installed in one loco as function only for the sound and also just tested one by hooking it up to the track supply so I think what you are proposing is perfectly feasible - so long as you can juggle several decoder addresses at the same time! Izzy

Having now fitted stay-alives to a few items it has to be said that it is a distinct advantage, but.... in many cases you have to add the stay-alive to decoders by soldering wires on yourself, with some it isn't possible because useful connections on the decoders just don't exist, and to get the kind of extended 'dead rail' running that is possible (seconds etc) you need a very large capacitance. This needs quite a bit of space and/or is expensive. Izzy

To me the arcing looks just like the result you often get when you accidently touch the wires together momentarily from a 16v ac supply. Logic would suggest that the same result is occuring before the 'juicer' can detect the opposing current and switch it. Perhaps the combination of steel rail and higher voltage makes it more visible than might be seen/not seen with lower voltage or/and N/s rail. Izzy

Yes, it does seem that way. The W10 laptop I have is the little 11.6" Medion job Aldi sold before Xmas with a touchscreen and twice the spec of other similar ones. A Medion was the first laptop I bought back in W98 days and they do still seem to have different specs with regard to Win installs than other makes even thought they are now part of Lenovo. I actually got it to run the sprog because after a re-install my 'main/old' Win7 laptop just won't accept the sprog being hooked up at all, has a paddy and does a BSD every time. After the huge tussle to do the wipe/clean re-install - windows update was changed so it's a pig to update a re-install I discovered too late - I won't do it again to try and use it. If you want to stop this dive into settings/personalisation and turn off the 'lock screen' settings. This will stop I quote " get fun facts, tips and more from Windows and Cortana on your lock screen". You can set a picture to always show instead, or just a plain screen. Izzy

You're not alone in wondering what MS does with it's updates as I have just had a similar problem, but in my case after the latest W10 update the sprog drivers had been uninstalled.......(this is one of the early sprogs ( v 2.7) with two sets of drivers for the serial-to-usb interface). Installing the un-signed drivers is a pain, but now complicated it seems by a further trick MS have put up their sleeves in that you have to go through the routine for each driver... whereas in the past once you had done it both could be installed one after the other. Now, as soon as you install an un-signed driver the system re-boots automatically as it finishes the install............. Izzy

Sorry, can't find any shots, but RossPop's post really covers it with his beautifully lined 7mm example anyway. This is from the HMRS website with reference to their LMS lining transfers. " LINED BLACK LOCOS (The 'Intermediate Passenger' or' Standard Mixed Traffic' livery, 1928 to about 1940). These locos were finished in varnished black. In principle there was a red line where a crimson lake loco would have had a yellow one, except that steps and tender sideframes were unlined, as were the footplate angles of standard tank locos. Tender and cabside panels often had rounded corners, though not when on raised beadings with square corners. " It's many moons ago now but I think I 'cheated' by using squared off corners since that was easier to excecute with a bow pen for me. I think I used thinned Humbrol enamel rather than red ink, but can't really remember now. All I would advise if I may is that you apply the lining over a coat of hard varnish. And then let down/weather the loco afterwards. That way you can 'rescue' any mistakes you make by wiping off quickly. Actually I used Halfords acrylic varnish out of a rattle can. Dries very quickly so aids preventing dust sticking to the surface finish and enamel can be removed easily with a light application of turps/white spirit without attacking the varnish. Izzy

I built several of these finished in black with the simple single red line. Much easier to do with a bow pen!.... I'll see if I can find any shots to give you an idea of what it looks like, although they may be very poor quality since most were lost in a digital storage loss some years back. Izzy

I've had a similar experience with a TTS decoder when I had to change/re-attach the wires to it. Afterwards the sound output was a bit muffled and not as loud, so I assumed the amplifier had somehow been affected. At the maximum volume setting 8 you can hear it as if it is set at the lowest level 1 and not as crisp, and this is with it coupled up to a Zimo 3D speaker. It will get replaced with a Zimo when I can save up the pennies. Despite all their drawbacks/deficiences I believe they are a good way to experience what a sound fitted loco is like at reasonable cost. Izzy

As a general rule all the Parkside 4mm kits I have made came with Romford wheels. I think the odd one might have had Gibsons, not sure though. Both these wheel types are 12mm dia whereas the Hornby/Bachmann/Dapol ones (in the kits) seem to be 12.5mm besides often not having the standard 26mm axle length, and trying to use them does cause fitment and ride-height problems. Not sure what wheels are now provided in the Peco-Parkside kits. Anyone know? Anyway, I have found that most of the bearing holes in the solebars need opening up and/or drilling deeper to ensure the bearings seat properly and the solebars fit into place and are upright with the wheels/axles in place. Otherwise they splay out towards the bottom of the w-iron. Having the axles a loose fit in the bearings isn't too much of an issue, a (little) bit of slop will allow for less than perfect squareness, whereas if they are tight then the wheels won't run freely. Izzy

Given that the current collection seems to be the problem, (and as I said in a previous post I always fit split-axle collection through the bogie wheels to 0-4-4/4-4-0's to prevent it) although changing the decoder and/or fitting a stay-alive might/will help, could I suggest that in the first instance you just run the loco for a while on DC to let the pick-ups bed-in so they are sitting positively on the wheel rims. This might help to overcome the intermittent nature of the current supply which in itself could be sending the wrong signals to whatever decoder is used. This doesn't of course show up under DC, the motor just using whatever current/volts comes it's way. As you have discovered while some decoders have a small amount of memory to remember their settings with iffy current supplies - even if the motor/lights performance isn't great - others just reset. All I would say regarding decoders is that time has shown me that in the long run that getting the best is cheaper/less hassle/more reliable. I now only use Zimo in 4mm and Zimo/CT in 2mm. Youchoos has a lot of info on stay-alives and hooking them up, and a web search will reveal a lot more options and info. regards, Izzy

Just a thought, how is the rear bogie is attached to the chassis, is it fixed height wise? It might be preventing the rear drivers from properly sitting on the rail enough to get good electrical contact. Some decoder makes really don't like a less than perfect current supply and go back to square one when power is lost even for a miniscule time. Turning off DC running can help as they do get confused with the electrical signals and whether they are getting DC or DCC power. Adding a stay-alive (if the decoder will take one) would help if you haven't got current collection from the bogie as well as the drivers. Izzy

I’m not sure there is a standard specified, at least I can’t see anything in the NMRA specs in regard to it. But I would have thought that RJ45 Ethernet plugs/wiring at 8 core for data use was better than RJ11 telephone at 4/6. Izzy

Everyone I think seems to build things up differently, and so long as it works in the end that's all that really matters. Personally I have to say that I would complete the middle crossing next, as I always prefer to work from the crossings out on the basis that if they are centered where they should be then the other rails can be adjusted to fit. Then I would use middle and ** 1 to gauge/lay the lower stock rail followed by the lower blades on both routes, (checking the blade movement clearance at this stage as the upper closure rail could be adjusted to suit - which would of course affect the actual position of it's matching stock rail), so they could all be used to set the middle closure and upper stock rails since these will probably be the easiest to finesse to fit. Izzy **edited to correct crossing No from 2 to 1 ** - sorry

Been playing around with bits of card to make the first section of my Priory Road station buildings while trying to decide exactly how and where I want them as I am not at all sure what looks best or right. Izzy

Just thought I would add the details of the template I posted, which are in the templot dialog as it's generated. I just clicked and didn't look as properly as I should have. These bring up the fact that the crossing angles all vary, the two diverging routes don't have the same one, which I assumed they did. I will also add these details to my post with the template, for general information. So; Ram Middle crossing 1: 4.34 Left crossing 1:7 Right crossing 1:5.99. Curvature LH 33.2" RH 24.4" Both switches 'A' blades. Izzy

Ian, Just a few bits regarding the drawing. The 'make' 3-ways option in templot uses, I believe, 7 partial templates (It's very clever stuff ), and so the two checkrails in the top of this shot would I think probably just be one covering the length. I have circled the wing rail that will need trimming for the same reason. I would suggest you also check the toe of the blade clearance on switch 2. I have re-drawn this open just to see, and it's looks okay, but having had problems recently with this aspect in a single-slip it is I feel worth making sure. I use a 1mm gap here - at the switch toes - and as my under-turnout tie-bar system uses 0.5mm brass wire soldered to the blades I find the gap between the stock and closure rails needs to be at least 2mm to give enough movement room. This is why I generated it using an A7 as the base template, to give the greatest possible deflection and widest distance between the rails here. regards, Izzy

Hi Ian, As I used A7 for the base template to generate the 3-way, to match your original template, I would have thought it to be about 1-3.5 curviform, and measuring a printed copy appears to confirm that it's roughly that angle. I'm afraid I never think much about this aspect because I only ever used simple card jigs to generate V's. One aspect perhaps worth mentioning is that there will be the need to trim the inner ( top as it is currently viewed) wing rail of this crossing to provide check-rail sized flange clearance for wheels. Because long timbers were expensive companies didn't use any more than was necessary, so as soon as standard size/length/width timbers could be used, they were, commensurate with the rail support needed. As Don has said, whatever you feel is best and looks okay will probably be right. Looking forward to seeing it being constructed. Izzy

I think it's most useful to download the pointwork pdf's from the Peco website and have paper printed copies laid down on the baseboard. Gives a better sense of what looks best and works in the space available. Izzy

Hi Ian, Here is a copy of your turnout which I have generated in Templot - make tandem - with the middle crossing included and the timbers shoved, and isolation cuts marked along with a wiring dia. The latter bits being added by import/export through Photoshop so it's a jpg file rather than PDF, but should print out to the same size. I hope it will be of use to you. details; Ram Middle crossing 1: 4.34 Left crossing 1:7 Right crossing 1:5.99. Curvature LH 33.2" RH 24.4" Both switches 'A' blades. I have watched your track construction thread with interest and admiration, not giving up and getting them just right, and did rather wonder when I did the Templot file whether I was actually teaching my grandmother to suck eggs...... I feel certain showing what you are doing is encouraging others to have a go. regards Izzy

I’m afraid it was said purely as jest. A thought that such a service might arise at some point (!) in time given the reaction to this change. Izzy

Strikes me there is developing a need for a Peco point re-wiring service............. roll-up, roll-up, get your re-worked Peco self-isolating points here.........Ahem.

Perhaps it was a combination of wanting to allow larger dia standard EM wheels of the time to easily negotiate the curved route (the angle at which the leading edge of the rear of the flange would meet the check rail), and maybe the checkrail clearance varied according to the curvature? Intriguing. Izzy