Izzy

I have a feeling that neither of the wire tools shown are designed or able to cope with straightening flat wire over it's longer side. This needs something that prevents the wire twisting as the curvature is unwound, which doesn't usually happen with round wire or when done with the shorter length side where twisting doesn't often result. Izzy

Are the wheels 7mm? - just a thought - as all the Dapol coaches I've handled still seem to use 6mm, and plain disc 6mm/14.8's are available from shop 2. Izzy

I would guess it's the former Modelzone stock which has now been released given that there seems to be exclusive Modelzone stuff in the mix from what I read of some of the descriptions. Izzy

A PL10 is about 4.5mm, I think the Seep is similar - haven't got any of these to measure I'm afraid, so probably not enough for what you need. Have you considered using servos? I used hacked ones to lift 1/4"/6mm magnets for the same reasons (they rose/fell in 1/4" ID K&S brass tube) and I can't see why the basic movement wouldn't work horizontally. Here's a few of shots of the arrangement. Very crudely done as usual, but worked well and was able to lift multiple linked magnets with one servo. hope it's of interest Izzy

It's an I class and was the forerunner of the later K/L classes. As such it has an early riveted tank and a smaller unequal wheelbase. I originally choose to make it in preference to the later K/L's just so it was a bit different. Now that Minerva are doing a K I am glad I did, especially as it took around 18 months to make. Mind you this was over 25 years ago As mentioned in my original post there was a lot about the MW's in articles by Don Townsley in various early MRJ's and the first compendium, drawings etc. IIRC that is where I obtained all the info necessary to build it. Izzy

Make sure you use other than a collet chuck. Most drill collets are not cut fine enough in the small sizes to hold small diameter drills properly - none of them do with any size really, (don’t confuse these with proper precision lathe collets which are totally different), but usually the ordinary three jaw chuck type can. Most drills/mini drills have these or they are available as spares. Izzy

I know these had through pipes to allow running in passenger trains, but would the brakes have been upgraded to both sides in later years, or did they just remain very basic one-sided affairs for when stationary? Smashing modelling whatever, really shows what can be achieved with basic materials and a bit (!) of work. With regard to w-irons I have just recently fiddled about with a pair of Hornby TTE coaches to get some BR 4-wheel CCT's on the cheap. Not brilliant, but usable. As the wheels and w-irons on these are all wrong in respect of size I did a cut-and-shut job on the w-irons and made some inside bearing w-irons from K&S brass sheet since I didn't think it would be possible to get them to take pin-point bearings and hold the wheels securely in the correct position once I had cut them about. The wheels (P4) run quite well enough for my needs and the vertical movement of the axles provides all the basic compensation needed. Might be an idea to consider if the plasticard w-irons/axleboxes give problems at any stage in later times. kind regards Izzy

The sales figures do make interesting reading, and I do wonder how much of the decline is due to the now changed circumstances of the web based forums such as this, or if other factors are also involved. I don’t know whether individual sales would grow much if there were fewer mags around, I rather suspect not by much, but could be wrong. Izzy

Although the latest Farish stuff is very good in all respects, wagons, locos, coaches, putting etched chassis under the wagons still makes a big difference to my mind. Do one and you’ll want the same for the rest I have found. Not always possible with all wagon types, which are usually those with awkward/non-standard axle lengths as well! Izzy

Really good comparison shot so clearly showing what a complete mess Bachmann made of the cab front let alone the roof details. What I can't work out, looking at available scale drawings, is how they managed it. Still, the Sutton 24 wouldn't probably have existed if they had done a decent job. Izzy

You may like to look here at post #32 which gives good info on adding stay-alive to TTS. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/124592-some-rtr-rolling-stock-for-all-saints-east/page-2&do=findComment&comment=3053277 I have just tried it out with a spare TTS decoder in a Bachmann 08 - much modified which I have yet to write about - and it works well. Izzy

I think that perhaps the issue of the height of the bufferbeams in relation to the solebars and body relates to the differences between wooden and steel chassis wagons. With most of the former, of whatever type and builder, the wooden bufferbeams are taller than the solebars, generally the height of the solebars plus the floor, so the body sides seem to sit down between the beams. Not by much, just the thickness of the floor, but it is enough to show clearly, and especially with the thick wooden bufferbeams. By comparison, steel chassis wagon bodies are just really sat down on top of the (mostly separate) chassis, the solebars and beams being the same height. Some 2mmSA chassis are able to be built with either steel or wooden solebars and bufferbeams, and this is also where it can get confusing over deciding which bits to use. It often foxes me and I wonder if I have got the right mix of bits! In the complete opposite to others I always fold up a basic wagon etch (after cutting all the bits out) before adding anything else, using a simple folding jig of two steel plates held together with 8ba bolts. Then I fit the bearings and add the overlays and other bits. I do it this way to ensure the solebars reach to the top of the chassis floor when adding the solebar overlays, so there isn't a gap between the solebars and body when fitted together. I used to get this when I first tried putting all the bits on and folding up the chassis last, which I didn't find half so easy. I'm sure you will enjoy 2mm. Izzy

As has been said two piece coupling rods not jointed as one can cause running problems when there is too much slop in the centre joints. Ideally you should join the two rods using a pivot point as per the prototype so the overall coupling rod distances stay constant. This is often a problem with RTR coupling rods that are made as two pieces joined together because the pivot is loose/sloppy and the distances constantly vary. So long as the coupling rod centres match the wheelbase, opening up the rods so they are an easy fit on the crankpins isn't an issue, to allow up/down axle movement, but it does become one when pivoting rods which rotate individually around the centre crankpin are involved. Izzy

Always a pleasure to see shots of Foxcote pit, one of those inspirational layouts that you never tire seeing photos of, well I don’t anyway. I admire the way you have managed to fit it into the main layout so it looks as if it was always so with that lovely sweeping main line, yet still able to be used as a stand-alone when desired. Not surprised by your experience with the cassettes, I think their usefulness tends to vary depending on the layout design and particular needs, but pleased to learn Utrecht went okay after recent times. Kind regards, Izzy

Absolutely first rate. Treating the beading as you have done does I believe make a considerable difference. I have had a similar experience with a 7mm exGE cattle wagon with it's outside framing, and it will look better when painted in comparison to one that wasn't. The 'squareness' of the beading shows up to a greater extent once painted and rounding it off/breaking the edges makes it appear smaller and flatter. With regard to the various plasticard sheets available, I understand that Slaters is a harder mix than Evergreen, this showing up by cutting producing raised ridges which need scraping/sanding off, which doesn't happen with the latter make. Sheets from Javis - which many shops stock/sell - seem to vary, some being very soft and others the exact opposite. This makes gluing a lottery at times. I have 5thou evergreen that will melt away before your eyes with anything more than the merest hint of glue. Looking forward to seeing the coach painted finished. Izzy

I have a PA2 system, and also bought a few of the class 31 decoders when they originally arrived. I have not tried programming them using the program track, but using Program-on-main I have had no issues getting them to accept any CV changes. However, they will only respond/program when placed on the track one way around when using my Sprog/JMRI to make CV changes, so I guess they may be some of these 'faulty' ones. As they work okay either way around (both directions) on my layout via the PA2, and have been fitted into place/soldered leads etc, I can't be bothered to rip them out to return them. If I ever get any more, which is doubtful now, I will fully test them before any install. Izzy

Hi Hayfield, Like others I have also found you need a decent sized iron with plenty of heat reserve for most general 7mm work. Even 'thin' etched kits in 7mm turn out to be pretty good heat sinks with anything much under 50watts and a decent sized tip, and I believe that it is the tip size combined with the heat that is important. I would suggest you take a look at the Weller 75watt irons, mine is now 25+years old and still good. It's not small, takes a while to get up to heat, but has 10mm dia tips - I have a straight wedge and an angled one - which allow enough heat to produce flowing joints. With 7mm I think once you get past this size for basic body assembly you have to think along the lines of screwing/gluing bits and bobs on - or sub-assemblies etc. Well, that's what I have usually done. The most a smaller iron is good for (25-40watt), is making up the smaller parts like pipework and so forth. Good luck with your choice! Izzy

Thank you for adding your posting on the stay-alive, it is most interesting, and will I am sure be of help to anyone wanting to add stay-alive to a railroad 31 especially considering the use of traction tyres. I haven't found the need so far, mainly because I removed the traction tyres, but also use live crossings in the P4 trackwork, but I do have a Bachmann 08 that putting a TTS sound chip in might be nice - if Hornby release one on it's own - and this might benefit from stay-alive. Although the photos are very clear on where to solder the additional wires needed on the decoder, ( would this also apply to any other TTS decoder?), could I ask if it would be possible for you to confirm the actual parts you used, the capacitor size/diode/resistor? I presume the diode will be either a IN4001 or IN4007 and the resistor a 100ohm/1/2watt, but what is the capacitor size and rating, the uF @ 16v or 25v? I also understand there is a need to turn off DC running to prevent erratic behaviour? With regard to the wheels, although the Ultrascale ones have 2.5mm axles I do not believe they would be suitable for the current Hornby 31's, either the RR or 'Full Fat' versions, since both now use proper sized wheels for both driven and carry axles, 14.5mm/12.5mm, whereas those shown are all 14mm. regards Izzy

You can really use 3-point gauges with any track, from dead straight to, well, as tight as you need/want. The key is that the amount of gauge widening is roughly proportional to the tightness of the curvature. This presumes the gauge uses the standard size design with the distance between the two legs being twice the track gauge. As has just been posted, the two legs go on the outside rail, otherwise the opposite effect of gauge narrowing occurs. regards Izzy

I don't know what size/type of viaduct you intend making but all my recent layouts (1x4mm/P4 & 3x2mm/2FS )have been card based from the baseboards up, and after trying foamcore are now made from layers of mountboard, indeed the latest 2FS one, a single board 60"x10" and with a folding sector plate type fiddle yard, is currently under construction, the pcb timbers being laid before adding the Versaline chairplates. The Templot template - inkjet A4 sheets from a generated PDF file joined and laid onto 1200m lining paper, will be discarded once the track is built and ready to lay. The cork hasn't been laid/glued down onto the baseboard or sector plate yet. A layer of cork (1/16" or 1/32") is always laid down under the track using pva - I usually just cover the whole baseboard surface - with the track stuck down onto it via d/s tape. After wiring up and proving it all works okay ballasting is done using Woodland Scenics extra fine ballast sprinkled on (you only need very small amounts I find) and fixed using WS S191 scenic glue dispensed via a Revell paint syringe. This is very watery, matt, and doesn't penetrate down far into the cork where there is no d/s tape. It's just enough to hold the ballast in place, aided by any paint wash you may colour the ballast with. Generally I airbrush on weak shades of Rowney poster paint to taste. If you should choose to use mountboard as the base material I would suggest the trackbed needs at least 2x mountboard thickness (a layer is about 1.2mm), while of course 3 or 4 is even better. My baseboards use 4 as a minimum, about the same general thickness as 6mm ply - give or take the odd mm, but with mostly under half the weight. My current 7' long P4 layout is under 4Kg. Anyway, hope this gives you some ideas. Izzy

As I like laying my track down onto cork without a paper template between the two I usually lay my sleepers down onto the (loose) template with a couple of thin widths of d/s tape, construct whatever bit of track it is, paint the sleepers and the sides of the rails/chairs - which helps 'glue' them into place - then remove the template (white spirit applied with a small brush breaks the d/s tape glue bond), and then put the track down (using whatever method I choose at the time) in place. Izzy

Going by the illustration I would also take it the blue/black wires coming out from the opposite end to those for the 8-pin were for the stay alive. It's just a thought, but the 8-pin is being fitted into the socket the right way around? Motor will still work but no lights, but if you have a loco with no lights...... I just wondered if the orientation might affect whether the stay alive works. Izzy

Having now worn glasses since my early 40's - varifocals from the start - and working in 2mm since 2010, I feel I am very lucky to have discovered an old anglepoise magnifying lamp originally bought from Argos that my son once used in his aircraft model making days. This has 1.7x magnification, I have no trouble looking through it at any distance it is set at from the work, and allows plenty of room underneath it with which to work, more than enough to wield a soldering iron etc. I have tried to obtain a modern day replacement with LED's or fluorescent tubes in the hope less heat would be produced from the bulb/light source used, but they have all seemed to have either much poorer elements or higher magnification, and often both. This includes the present day one from Argos. Higher magnification means room to work underneath becomes very restricted. You can see the items, perhaps examine them, but not easily work on them with tools. Because of these findings I would suggest that using the headband type magnification with a separate light source might be found to be the better option although I have no experience of them. I have some cheap clip-on ones I sometimes use with my glasses which are okay but a bit heavy. Izzy

As I have remarked in other threads my experience has been that the motor control in these TTS decoders suits some motors very well, and others not at all, although even the 'best' performance can't come close to that afforded by the likes of Zimo. The adjustment parameters don't seem capable of offering much leeway compared with those found in others. In such cases where decent motor control just isn't possible then 'piggybacking' the TTS decoders - treating them as a sound function only type - and using another to perform motor control - seems the easiest way out, always provided of course that there is the space for two decoders. I have done this with a TTS +Zimo MX600 in a Bachmann diesel which could only jack-rabbit with the TTS alone whatever the parameters used, and it works well. The total cost is still far less than a 'full fat' Zimo sound chip, and you can always change the speaker to another type/size. That the MX600 was already installed meant that it only cost me the TTS decoder anyway. Whether this is actually worth all the extra hassle is a moot point and will depend on the individual, I did it simply by way of experiment. I very much doubt that having used 4 TTS diesel types in various locos I will buy any more. Instead I will use Zimo at a slower rate and probably replace those I already have at some stage. Izzy

I certainly think taking the 'best' bits of several stations and blending them to suit what you need is the best option as no single one really covers what you would like, i.e. Walton played host to 309/304/308's etc but had no other facilities past the two platform faces and - I think - one stock siding after the mid-60's, all goods being withdrawn from the Tendring lines after this date, being concentrated in the Colchester stations, North/Town. Clacton did some parcels traffic - via the goods shed - as per Colchester Town/St Boltophs. Actually, a cut down Clacton/Walton amalgamation set in an urban setting might work okay. Two platform faces for passenger, one for parcels, plus whatever else you need. More sidings for stock storage might be more flexible than multiple platform faces in respect of track design and operation. More viewable and play value. Rather than a CL15 I would plump for a CL31. After the demise of the 15's it was mainly 31/37/47. Although they did appear at times 20's weren't a common sight IIRC. regards Izzy