Brassey

Mikkel, did you keep the front sand boxes? Brassmasters now sell the Finney ones and lots of other bits too. See their website. Peter

I've done a series of drawings for various web articles, and also for the item in the footer, and use a similar technique. I've written it up a bit here. http://www.devboats.co.uk/gwdrawings/howidraw.php 

 

A couple of nasty catches to watch out for when transferring your scans is that sometimes the scale is not exactly the same horizontally and vertically, and also, especially if the originals are in a book you don't wish to destroy, it can be easy to get distortions near the gutter where the paper tends not to lie flat. I would add to your guidelines horizontal ones. In particular wheel centres, wheel edges and boiler centreline, documented in RCTS and on many drawings, are IME good to use. That way you can align as much as possible to a grid. I also have a library of standard components where I can get drawings. Interesting how often components on a weight diagram don't quite match the official drawing!

 

I do believe your example is from Freezer's book. Have you tried his 94xx yet? Not his finest hour!

 

Jim C

 

 

Thanks Jim,

I posted this in response to a blog I had answered but couldn't work out how to post an image in comments.  I see the button now; doh!

I use these drawings primarily to check kits for their accuracy so dimensions are not so fundamental but I take your points about adding in the horizontals and scans in the gutter. The tender on the County suffered distortion from being in the spine.  Thankfully that kit has a 4mm Malcom Mitchell tender so hopefully that one should be true.

No I have not tried a 94xx as it is out of my period being strictly pre-grouping. My whole layout is being built on a scaled up and wrapped scan of an old o/s map!

I have also scaled a massive full size copy of an LNWR Wolverton Carriage diagram before now, in parts, pasted together in photoshop, saved in .pdf and sent that off to the etchers.  Still not built it though.

Cheers

Peter 

When scaling in Photoshop, I have drawn and added over the scan a straight line of something I knew the exact dimension of, such as the wheelbase.  I did this in Illustrator and that allows you to set that line at a precise figure in mm such as 34mm.  I've then scaled the scanned drawing to fit exactly the drawn line.

You can save the scanned image without the line and print it out.  I have used Photoshop professionally and have the full Adobe Suite which includes Illustrator.  You can probably drawn lines in Gimp too but whether you can dimension them is another matter.

I have an example but can't post here in comments so will stick it on my blog.

Thanks Jol; it's not just me then.  Surprised that no OO builders have picked this up. 

Hi Mikkel

Thanks for the comment.

No the chassis jig is from Hobby Holidays.  Geoff Holt used one in his books on Locomotive Modelling which is where I got the idea.

The problem with this kit, as I alluded to, is that having got the rods set up on the jig, when I put the frames on the jig the holes for the axles did not line up.  I think the wheelbase on the frames is slightly out though I might have altered it when pre-cutting through the cutouts.  It's not a problem for me because in P4 I am replacing the leading two holes with High Level horn guides but on a fixed chassis in OO it might cause problems.

Anyway, I have now soldered the spacers in (using the jig having realigned it) added a motor mount spacer and next step is to fit the horn guides using the jig.  Will post that next

Any progress to report as I have also recently acquired a Mallard Duke kit?  It might be me but, should the tender brakes not be behind the wheels rather than in front?

I have a couple of these tenders to build too.  I got mine from the Broad Gauge Society as they go with their whitemetal BG Rover kit but sold separately; they also sell the springs separately too which are nice lost wax castings.  I am building mine in P4 as converted to standard gauge of course.

Regards

Peter

That's some loco build list; paticularly in 7mm!  I have a similar list but in 4mm for the LNWR/GWR joint line Summer 1912.

Looking forward to seeing progress.  Good luck.

Peter

I too am building 2322 with the B4 belpaire.  There were many pre 1914 Belpaire Dean Goods with the wider footplate.  I guess it depends on whether you can source a photograph and the numberplates as to which you want to build.  The RCTS volume lists the boiler change dates.  I think 2322 got the B4 in 1901 but some were still being outshopped with the roundtop S4 boilers in 1912.  I have one of these to build too.  I am using the parts mainly from a Finney kit to make both versions.  Peter

Not sure whose make the GB4 gearbox is but some with grub screws recommend filing a flat on the axle where the grub screw engages.  Otherwise the screw can throw the gear off centre when fully tightened resulting in too tight a mesh in places.

Peter

I too have the Finney Dean Goods and am planning a similar double build with a High Level chassis; one narrow with an S4 boiler the other with a B4.  Will be interesting to watch progress on these two