Dungrange

As Grovenor has said, I don't think there is a need for any signals on the layout as drawn (although I'm no expert). There would obviously be a need to stop a train travelling in the down direction approaching a point set against it, but I'd expect that signal to be off-scene to the left at the end of your imaginary double track section. That signal would provide authorisation to move into the single track section (in possession of the single line token), which means that there wouldn't be a need for another signal at C. There would be a block signal for trains in the up direction, but I'd expect that to be at least a train length and an overlap distance from point A, which means that signal would be off the bottom of your plan. The shunting in/out of the head-shunt wouldn't be signalled - all that would be required would be possession of the single line token. As has already been said, there is no need for a trap point, because the crossover A & B would be operated by a local ground frame, which can only be unlocked by the train in possession of the single line token. The single line token can only be released from the ground frame once the crossover has been set back to normal, so point B performs the trap function.

So the modifications that included fitting a wider deck would have been 1991 / 92? That therefore means that the 1990's version is as 'inaccurate' for a 1990s layout as the 2000's version is for a layout set in the 21st century. Since most of my stock represents the first decade of the 21st century, I'm probably better waiting for a re-run of the 2000's version, even if Hattons currently have no plans for a future run. That may have changed by the time I've built a layout on which to run them!!!

How long did these wagons last in the 1990's livery? I guess my question is when were the wider deck extensions fitted and when they were fitted, were all wagons so treated at the same time, or was there a period when the 1990s version would have appeared alongside the later modified wagons?

The UK is no longer a member of the European Union: we legally left the EU on 31 January 2020 at 23:00 UK time (24:00 Central European time). The opportunity to Revoke Article 50 and remain a member of the EU is no more. However, under the terms of the Withdrawal Agreement ratified just before our departure, we are in a transition period where the UK is still a member of the EU Single Market (like Norway and a few other non-EU countries). This transition period runs through to 31 December 2020. Like Norway, we pay for this access (part of the so called 'divorce settlement' in the Withdrawal Agreement) but have no say over how the money is used by the EU (because we are not a member of the EU anymore). The idea was that as a non-member country we would negotiate a new trade agreement with the EU during this transition period and the new arrangements will come into effect on 1 January 2021. The problem with extending this transition period is that if we want access to the EU Single Market for a longer period of time, we need to pay for it. That was always the case if we wanted to pursue what was usually referred to as a 'soft Brexit'. However, to pay for the impacts of Covid-19, the EU budget for the next seven year period is likely to be higher than it otherwise would have been and that means that the cost of an extension will have increased from what it would have been pre-Covid-19. Therefore, if the UK decides that it still wants access to the EU Single Market it is going to cost more than would have been envisaged when we left the EU. We are currently part of the EU Single Market, but we are not a member of the European Union.

Up is towards Edinburgh, the capital city.

Peter, I'm no expert, particularly with semaphore signalling, but I'd answer your questions as follows: 1. The positions shown seem reasonable. The signals would be placed to the left of the running line that they apply to, which is what you seem to have shown. In the case of the starter signal in the top right of your drawing, the crossover would have to be locked to allow a train to run into the platform (because it's in the overlap (the distance beyond a signal that needs to be clear to accept a train up to the signal)). This crossover couldn't be used if you have a train sitting in the left to right platform. I think the Home signal that you have shown top left would actually be offstage to the left. I'd expect there to be enough space between the home signal and the crossover to allow a locomotive to use the crossover within 'station limits' whilst a train may be held at the home signal. However, I'm not going to say that it's wrong where you have it. If you intend passenger trains operating into the bay, then this signal is likely to be a splitting junction type with the larger post for the mainline and the smaller post for access to the bay. If however, the bay is only to access the sidings, the trains would be brought to a stand at the home signal and then your shunt signal would control access through the crossover to the bay. 2. Your assumption about distant and advance starter signals is correct. 3. Again your shunt signals would normally be placed to the left of the line that they relate to. I'm not sure whether you need all of these because I'm not sure what shunt movements you think you are likely to make. Try to think about what movement you think each one is controlling and only include shunt signals for the movements you anticipate making. 4. If the bay is not used by passenger trains, then a trap point would not be required for the layout shown. However, as per the response above, if you will operate passenger trains into the bay platform, then the sidings would need to be trapped. The purpose of trap points is to stop errant rolling stock fouling passenger lines. As per the response above, facing crossovers on the mainline were generally avoided, so the reason for including one is most likely that you'd have a passenger train terminating in the bay platform. 5. The point in the yard could be operated manually. Whether the point from the bay to the sidings is manually operated is likely to depend on whether or not the bay platform is used by passenger trains or just for access to the sidings. In the later case, it would probably be hand worked, but if the bay is used by passenger trains, it would probably be controlled by the box. There wouldn't be a need for signals in the yard. Hand signals by the shunter would suffice. 6. I think it's plausible that you could have a signal box if you want one - there are or were still some around in the 21st century. It is most likely to be situated such that you minimise the distance between the levers in the box and the points and signals that the box controls. I'd probably go with somewhere near your baseboard join - ie halfway between your crossovers near the letter C on your left to right line.

It was actually @nigeltaylor that stated the developers of iTrain were Dutch not German, the implication being that all Dutch people are helpful and all German people are not. I agree with @Colin_McLeod that that sort of comment can be construed as racist and he was right to question the relevance of nationality. The helpfulness of the developers may be 'chalk and cheese' but that's not because of their nationality or race. It's simply because some people are arrogant bloody minded b*ggers. You get them in all countries.

According to their website, they don't stock Peco products. Look under manufacturers and Peco aren't listed - http://www.arcadiarail.co.uk/products/index.php

Welcome to the forum. With regards a baseboard size, that really depends on how much space you have available and what type of layout you want. Is it to be a continuous run or an end-to-end layout? You'll find people who construct layouts that are say four foot long by one foot wide up to those who are fortunate enough to have the space to build something that is 20 or 30 foot long by say 12 or 15 foot wide. Where do you plan to locate the layout and what access do you have? A lot of track plans for children's train sets are shown on a six foot by four foot baseboard, but that's not really ideal unless you have access from all sides. Basically it is difficult to reach more than two to three feet to rescue derailed stock. Whether you can reach three feet depends on your size and the height of the layout. The other problem with the typical train set type of layout is the overly tight curves, which don't really look realistic. However, for those who are space constrained, they may have no other option if they want a continuous run. Are you aiming for realism (ie a model representing the real railway) or just a train set? As for magazines, you can take out a subscription to whichever you like best - the one that covers articles that align best with your interests. Railway Modeller, British Railway Modelling, Model Rail and Hornby Magazine would be mainstream magazines that you should probably start by looking at. My advice would be to identify where you're going to locate the railway, what space you have available and what style of operation you want and then think about the baseboards that you need to build or buy to accommodate your plans.

Sounds like a good idea to me. Assuming that the new board is not visible from the front and what you are proposing to add can only been seen through the bridge, then you won't need much in the way of scenery beyond continuing the cutting to the rear and ballasting the track, since that's about all someone will be able to see. Therefore, in my view go for it, especially since it reduced the number of times you need to move the fiddle yard when operating.

I can't really recommend a relay. Although we have several relays on our club layouts, the component specification and wiring is something that I leave to the experts - that's not me. However, I think you need a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) relay - ie one that has two sets of switch terminals. As you'll only be switching mA at 12V DC, I don't think it should be too expensive, as you're not switching a lot of power. I think you are looking for the non-latching type, so it's only 'on' when something is detected and automatically goes 'off' as soon as nothing is detected. I think you will also need two sets of switch terminals on your point motor in addition to the ones that you are using to switch the frog power. That may mean connecting another DPDT microswitch to your point motor since I'm not aware of any motors with three sets of switch terminals. If my logic is correct, you need to connect one side of your 12 V DC signal power supply to the two common terminals on the DPDT relay. The two switch outputs that will be connected when the BD20 detects something should be connected to the red LEDs on your signals. The first switch contact goes to signal 1 and the second switch contact goes to signal 2. The two switch outputs on the relay that will be connected when nothing is detected need to be connected to the two common terminals on the DPDT point motor microswitch. The four outputs on that switch will then be connected to Green aspect on signal 1, Red aspect on signal 1, Red aspect on Signal 2 and finally Green aspect on signal 2. Note that the Red and Green are reversed for the second signal. The other side of your 12V power supply for the signals is connected directly to the signals. That therefore means that if the BD20 detects anything on the line ahead then the power will flow from your supply through the relay to the red LEDs, bypassing the point motor microswitch, because the setting of the point is irrelevant. However, if nothing is detected by the BD20, then the relay will be 'off' and the power will flow from your supply through the relay to the point motor microswitch which will determine which LEDs are lit. These should be either Green 1 and Red 2 or Red 1 and Green 2 if you've wired them correctly to your microswitch.

Being pedantic, there was only one run. The first 'half' of the batch were transported by air to those who had pre-ordered by whatever the cut-off date was and the rest of the first batch were sent by sea and therefore arrived later because it's a slower transport mode. Obviously for the most poplar versions, the majority were brought over by air and the left overs that were in the sea container sold out quicker than the less popular versions simply because there were fewer of them in the sea container.

I suspect that you'd have been better asking an electrical question in the wiring section rather than the section for permanent way, signals and infrastructure Okay, so that implies that the red LED on the motherboard just indicates that the BD20 has power - I'm assuming that it has its own power supply. The obvious question though is does the BD20 actually detecting something when placed on the track? Do you know whether the unit is actually working? I think you need to add in the optional LED indicator so that you know the unit is working first before trying to connect it to your signal. If you can't get that to work, then you might need to play about with the number of wire loops through the unit to get the sensitivity right. That seems to vary depending on the power output of your system (or power district if you have intermediate circuit breakers) and the resistance of your wheel sets. The Traintronics signals seem to require either an on-on switch or DCC Accessory decoder to operate them and they need their own 12V DC power supply. Obviously connecting each signal to a DCC accessory decoder would allow you to change the aspect by calling up the accessory address (just like throwing a point) but that's not what you're looking to do. The signal therefore appears to work in the way you want to use it by being connected to a 12V DC power supply (not your DCC track bus or the feed to your frog) and a separate switch allows you to change between the red and green aspects. Again, I think you need to prove that the signals can operate the way that they are intended to by throwing a switch. I suspect that it's just a Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) switch that you would need for this test. Once you know that the BD20 works and the signal aspect can be changed by the flick of a switch, you then need to replace the switch with a relay board of some form, which will be thrown by the output from the BD20. I think you have three logic scenarios: Signal A = Red and Signal B = Red - You want this when the BD20 detects something irrespective of the position of the point. Signal A = Green and Signal B = Red - you want this when the BD20 doesn't detect anything and the point is set to the route from Signal A Signal A = Red and Signal B = Green - you want this when the BD20 doesn't detect anything and the point is set to the route from Signal B. This means that I think the SPDT switch that you're meant to use to change the signal aspect needs to be replaced by both a relay attached to the BD20 and a set of switch terminals on the point motor (not the ones that are used to power the frog). However, I'm not clear on whether you just need one set of terminals on the point motor for both signals or one set per signal. Both signals need to be connected across the terminals of a relay connected to the BD20 but also through a set of terminals on the point motor switch - I'm just not quite sure which way to wire these but the position of the relay and the point motor switch should give you the logic that you need to derive the correct signal aspects. I think the important point is that nothing here is connected to DCC (apart from the power feed looped through the BD20). Power flows from your 12V power supply through the switch, relay and signal and back to the power supply.

What power supply are you using to power the LED that you are trying to light and what are the requirements of the LED that you are trying to light? The Quick Reference guide (https://www.dccconcepts.com/themencode-pdf-viewer-sc/?tnc_pvfw=ZmlsZT1odHRwczovL3d3dy5kY2Njb25jZXB0cy5jb20vd3AtY29udGVudC91cGxvYWRzLzIwMTYvMDIvQkQyMC1RdWljay1SZWZlcmVuY2UtR3VpZGUucGRmJnNldHRpbmdzPTExMTExMTExMTExMTExMTExJmxhbmc9ZW4tVVM=#page=&zoom=auto&pagemode=) shows a low Voltage power supply (5 - 12V) connected across pins 1 and 4 and an LED with a resistor connected between pins 3 and 4. Obviously the value of the resistor that you need is dependent on the power supply and whether the LED is designed to work with a 5V or 12V supply. 12V LEDs usually operate at a lower voltage, but already have resistor built in to limit the current draw. Clearly if you are getting a light on the motherboard, then the BD20 is actually detecting a locomotive on the track, so it sounds as though you don't have the correct set up of power supply, LED and resistor or the specifications are incompatible. Once you get the LED working, the next step is obviously to work out how to connect a relay to the detector. It looks as though pins 1 and 2 provide the logic that should switch a relay. Have you tried connecting a relay across these pins and does it switch when the BD20 detects something on the track?

With DCC Sound, the sound comes from the decoder fitted in the locomotive. The quality of the sound is therefore dependent only on the make of the decoder and the speaker that you choose to fit in each locomotive. You won't get the same quality if you fit Hornby's TTS compared to a Zimo or ESU Locksound decoder, although a speaker upgrade would help if you want to go the TTS route. The quality of sound is therefore independent of your choice of command station. The only relevance that sound has to the choice of command station is how easy it is to access the higher function numbers. I don't know how you access, say, F21 on either Hornby controller as I don't own either, but it looks to be the same on both. I suspect the Hornby controllers require you to press the Function button once followed by a number 0 to 9 to access functions F0 - F9 and press the function button twice followed by a number 1 to 9 to access functions F10 - F19 and pressing the function button three times would allow you to access F20 - F28. Personally I'm not that keen on that approach. I purchased the Sig-na-Track ACE2 (https://www.signatrak.co.uk/products/ace-dcc-controller-accessories/dcs2044-ace-15-48) because the ACE2 touch screen allows all function buttons to be displayed on screen simultaneously, which makes it easier to activate one sound after another, with fewer button presses (ie one button for each function / sound rather than two, three or four). I can also name all of my function buttons with what they actually do. It would therefore be worthwhile considering more than just the Hornby models. The Elite can control two trains simultaneously, whereas you only have control of one on the Select. The power supply for the Select is just 1 Amp (enough for about three locomotives) whereas the power supply for the Elite is a 4 Amp supply, and therefore able to control more locomotives and accessories (although a higher current power supply can be purchased for the Select). The Elite seems to be able to retain more locomotive addresses in memory and control more accessories. It's a better controller, but obviously more expensive.

I've seen quite a few pictures of the British Fuels version running to Inverness as part of EWS Enterprise services on the Highland Mainline, but they would all be post 1996 (which is both when EWS started operating and the British Fuels livery was introduced). I don't recall seeing any block trains of these wagons in any livery on the Highland Mainline and of course there was little wagon-load traffic around in the early 1990s between the demise of Speedlink and the restarting of Enterprise traffic under Transrail / EWS. Looking at the description on Accurascale's website (https://accurascale.co.uk/collections/pfa-2-axle-container-flat-wagon) it sounds as though they were all in England/Wales from 1986 (when the wagons first entered service) until the mid 1990s. For your time period the Yellow Cawoods version would be appropriate, but I very much doubt they ever got to Inverness.

I think you make an excellent case for why it is appropriate for you to receive a Government grant. Each of these suppliers that you highlight will no doubt have furloughed staff and applied for the same or similar grants themselves to help see their business through the next few months (ie when they are closed). That will hopefully help them 'trade' through 2020 Quarter 2. However, when things start to return to 'normal', all of these businesses need customers in Quarter 3, Quarter 4 and into 2021 to survive in the longer term and therefore it makes perfect sense for the Government to ensure that as many customers as possible are still able to pay for goods and services in the latter half of the year. As a society, we want to limit the likelihood of mass bankruptcies, which is the alternative that we face. The Governments's furlough scheme is expensive, paying up to 80% of an employees wage, while they stay at home. However, it has two purposes. Firstly, it cuts an employers costs, which should help see them through the current Quarter, but as importantly, it ensures that millions of employees have a job to go back to and removes the need for them to worry too much about what they can afford to buy in the second half of the year. There are thousands of businesses that are going to be reliant on their custom, including many model shops and model railway suppliers. However, business to consumer transactions are only part of the economy and it's important not to forget about the importance of business to business transactions like the ones that you have highlighted above. In the description above, you've indicated that three quarters of the grant will be going straight to eight local businesses, which will hopefully help to ensure their survival.

Catch points are used to derail vehicles which are out of control on steep slopes (known as runaways). Trap points are used to protect main railway lines from unauthorised vehicles moving onto them from sidings or branch lines. They are only required where the main railway lines carry passengers. 1 - Assuming the branch from the south is a passenger line, yes, the depot would have a trap point. 2 - If the branch line is a passenger line, then my understanding is that there wouldn't be a trap point where the branch meets the mainline 3 - Assuming the mainline is a passenger line, yes, the connection from the basin would have a trap point. Similarly, if the branch from the south is a passenger line, then there would need to be a trap point where the line from the basis meets the branch. As has been stated above, in some cases it is a normal point (eg a heads-hunt) that performs the trap function and it can be a full turnout with a buffer stop or sand drag and not necessarily just the switch part.

On the DC Kits website, ordering a DCC Sound fitted model costs £110 more than the analogue version. However, if you want to buy a matched pair of ESU V5 decoders as a retrofit, then the cost for the pair seems to be £170: nearly £90 each!!!

My understanding of these grants is that large businesses are having their rates bills for the coming year waived, which means that it reduces their overheads for this tax year and should make it easier for them to continue trading. However, waiving business rates is not much use to the many small businesses who pay either no business rates at all or pay at a reduced level because the rateable value of their property is below the relevant threshold, which is about £18,000. Therefore, to assist those businesses, instead of treating them in the same way as larger companies a fixed value grant of £10,000 is being given instead. It doesn't reduce their overheads, but provides a cash contribution towards their other running costs (rent / loan payments, utility bills, insurance etc) while they are unable to trade. The reason why many small businesses don't pay business rates is because they currently qualify for a rebate under the Small Business Exemption Scheme and this is the criteria being used to access these grants. Many model railway clubs were treated as businesses pre-Covid-19, which is why many qualified for a rates exemption under the Small Business Exemption Scheme. My understanding is that local authorities should, in theory, pay the money automatically to all qualifying businesses that have a rate exemption under the Small Business Exemption Scheme, but of course in practise they can only do so if they hold bank account details for those businesses. The local authority will almost certainly have no bank account details for the smallest businesses, who pay no business rates, so it is up to the owners of these businesses to get onto the local council's website and download the appropriate form or apply on-line (different councils handle the process differently). Obviously for the businesses with larger properties, who pay some business rates, the local authority may have a contact e-mail address and can therefore get in touch to invite applications, which is obviously what happened in the case or the original post. The only 'question' is whether a model railway club is really a 'business' and whether a model railway club that is stripped of it's source of income (eg from exhibitions, and members fees on meeting nights) should be allowed to fail simply because the Government has mandated the temporary closure of the club. There is a long list of 'properties' that don't qualify including 'car parks' and 'toilet blocks', etc, but properties such as workshops qualify, and I'd say that's what most model railway clubs are.

That's a great building, though I agree that being able to switch the lights on and off independently of each other would have been good. It would then have been possible to have them operate on a timer type circuit, with the lights in individual rooms being turned on and off at random times.

In 00, Peco Streamline track centres are 2" (although 45 mm is the scale dimension in 4 mm scale). For N gauge, I would assume your tracks will be around 1" track centres, so if you plan to have four tracks, allow four inches. The minimum width of a double sided platform on the real railway is 12', so that will be another 24 mm in N, so lets say one inch. You'll need more if you plan to have any platform furniture other than a sign or a lighting column. I'd therefore say that the absolute minimum width that you could accommodate your plan in would be six inches. You then need to think about what extra depth you want for scenery. Personally, I'd want at least an inch at the front and a couple of inches at the back, which would increase the minimum to about nine inches. However, if you can build something wider, I would. It really depends on what looks best scenically. A wider board would also allow you to build something which isn't dead straight.

The two Class 156 cars can be operated on their own, so with only one on the track, do you get the same problem? If so, does the second car, also operated on its own, also behave the same way? I'm tempted to say that it sounds like it may be a Railmaster issue. There is a review on the Hornby website for your set - https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/western-master-digital-train-set-with-elink-1.html which says "Engine is a bit more basic, runs poorly over my Hornby points and has 2 speeds only, (really slow and really fast)!" It sounds as though you are experiencing something similar with your Class 156.

Well, the models individually look like scale models, but I agree that a consistent scale may not have been used. Of course a 'true scale' model of Thunderbird 2 may overpower everything around it, because it was supposed to be a massive craft.

What scale are the Thunderbird models? Looking at the track and the girder bridge (which looks a bit like the Dapol kit) I'm tempted to think it's 00, but I seem to recall someone else on here building a rather large kit of Thunderbird 2, which I think was 1:144.