JCL

Hi all, I don’t know if anyone is interested, but Anycubic have a Black Friday sale on. 3 resins for the price of 2 using the RESIN3 coupon. Also, money off printers. https://www.anycubic.com/collections/uv-resin

Would the Anycubic clear work for you? I've just got a bottle of it and it's crystal clear. Apparently to stop it yellowing/clouding, you avoid cleaning it in IPA, but clean it in detergent instead. https://www.anycubic.com/collections/uv-resin/products/colored-uv-resin-for-photon-series?variant=34622234362018 - also, it's on sale this weekend. Poor photo that was taken for a different reason, but hopefully you can see what it looks like.

Thank you. In that case, I'll have a go with mine and see how I get on. As you say, they can be pared back.

The good news is that the printer has turned up. It had quite the journey. The resin that came with it is crystal clear, so that'll be interesting. I've been thinking about mounting the motor and come up with the design below (which is definitely up for discussion!) The idea is that there are two bars (in blue) that run from one side to the other. Dead centre is a 2mm hole to accept the screw (in yellow). The motor doesn't have enough of an overhang at each end, so my thought is that styrene/brass with its own 2mm hole is epoxied onto each end of the motor, which is then located using the screws. I could also add a guide each side of the motor to make sure it's dead centre. What do you think? Ponies next.

Hi there, I can’t add much to this, only what I’ve seen. I used to live in Fernie BC - brilliant mountainous scenery, as it’s in the Rockies, lovely looking station, and back in the day had a proper yard with coke smelting ovens and such. I lived there 2006, then 2009-2014, and now I’m on Vancouver Island. While at Fernie, it was mostly: 1/ coal from Sparwood to Vancouver for China etc 2/ potash 3/ grain from Saskatechewan, etc 4/ mixed freight 5/ Royal Canadian passenger train once in a blue moon 6/ track maintenance trains 7/ the holiday train around Christmas The trains through Fernie were all pulled by Canadian Pacific or Union Pacific locos, but further north there was CN, and I’m sure I’ve seen BNSF in the Vancouver yards as I’ve driven past them https://www.canadianrailwayobservations.com/2011/dec11/dec11 web/dec11cp.htm I arrived on Vancouver Island ok late to see any trains, even though there is a track at the side of my garden, as the lines had alsready closed down before I’d arrived. But don’t forget, you have plains, mountain ranges, lakes, the whole shebang over here. Do you have a time period in mind?

That looks fantastic. It will definitely be interesting to see how it turns out. Out of interest, are the lamp irons included on the print? I’ve generally shied away from printing those, but if yours turn out ok, I’ll give them a go.

That looks amazing! I've just spoken to @chris p bacon about it, and he has some thoughts on the wheels.

Printer delivery is now nominally on Monday, so I'll keep you posted.

Thank you for that, I'll have a look into it.

Thank you for that. I found a link on the Scalefour website here: https://www.scalefour.org/resources/baldry.html . The good thing is that I can use the formula and test a few versions of the pivot. The pony trucks being small, it won't cost too much in resin.

Ah, I got it a long time ago, all I can say is it looks like this. ^ I took the sides off it and added a decoder. Here it is superimposed on the drawing to show you how far out the wheelbase is. Does anyone have any views on the pivot point for the pony trucks? Jason

I’ve had notice that my printer will be turning up From HK on Friday. We tend to take this sort of thing with a pinch of salt on Vancouver Island, so one day next week is probably more realistic. I’ll quickly redo the axle box locations and fixing points for my version so they work with the bogie, and after calibrating and testing the printer, I’ll print one of these off. As soon as it’s done, I’ll put pictures up on here.

That’s true, very frustrating printing something only to break it trying to get the wheels in. @woko - re: Cad vs 3D modelling apps - I think whether you like one or the other depends on your previous experience and how your brain works. Blender has a steep learning curve, and building 3D models for print, I barely scratch the surface of what the program can do. The interface was one of the problems, but was changed in v 2.8 to be closer aligned to normal windows programs. Some people say it’s not as accurate, but dimensions to 5 decimal places is more than I need. The main thing is to set up your workspace first (measurement units, panel sizes, etc) and then save that as your startup file. Also, as you say, it’s always free, I can’t see it ever having its features reduced as has happened with Fusion 360.

Mike, if it helps at all, my printer is in the shed that’s kept to a minimum of 7C, so pretty cold in winter. I bought a controllable greenhouse heatpad, which works wonders combined with a rigid foam insulation case. I just need to turn it on 30 minutes before I start. On the 405nm resin, I’ve just realized my Moai resin is exactly the same wavelength, so I might see if it’ll work in the Photon when it arrives.

Certainly on the printers - there's always a better one around the corner. Years ago I worked on a contract for 18 months, and me colleague spent the entire time looking at computer specs - he never did buy one. If it wasn't for a small inheritance, I would be attempting to keep the Peopoly Moai on life support, but it's been such a pain in the neck that I've put it in the shed out of the way. @TurboSnail, are you still printing your wagon bodies separately to your underframes?

Well they look lovely! After a two month wait, I've had a text message overnight to let me know the Mono X is on its way! I'll let you know when it gets here. I'm currently reworking this GNR gas tank in Blender, let me know f you would like the stl when it's done. I just need to remove the longitudinal lines along the tanks and add holes in the middle for the bars to be slipped through. I think it might be a challenge to support.

Do the bought ones have pegs in their back face? Also, the hole doesn't have to be round.

Gah, there is one thing - a bit of an elephant in the room. Although I'm happy with the model so far, I do realise the roof curve across the ends of the machine isn't quite the right profile. I'll do my best to get it closer, but if I can't get an exact match, it may need a little bit of sanding to get the required shape.

I've been looking at the changes that were made to the loco and so far I've found the following: The fins welded to the bonnet seem to be a later addition The louvre panel was replaced by a sheet of metal with holes in it A grab was added The hump - I'm not convinced either way that it was kept The side louvres - some photos show them inset on both sides, some show them inset on only one side, this seems to be the latter. Not shown, is the step above the pipes on the opposite end. I've shown this in a different photo. I'm going to model this as close to original condition as I can. Below are a couple of photos showing the location of the .4mm holes I've drilled for handrails, pipes and the horns. I've not added holes for the lamp irons. Wagpnmaster, is this something that would help?

Hi there, this thread has been a really interesting read already. I’ve had a Mono X on order since early September, and there’s been quite the lead time on them (and it’s coming to Canada) so hopefully it won’t be long now before it arrives. I’ve a couple of GN wagons (gas tanks, open, etc) I previously printed on a Moai, but that printer is pretty finicky and the prints were ok, but I’m hoping the new one will be more straightforward. Out of interest, for the vans, are you printing the roofs as well, or using styrene? With another hat on, I do the website for the GNR Society, where we have a list of GNR models available in 4mm and 7mm scales. If you are selling your models and would like their models adding to the lists, please send me a DM and I’ll have them added.

Hi there, yep, steps, horns, pipes, guard irons, etc will need to be added later as they'll be too fragile. Where appropriate, (e.g. handrail knobs, horns) I'll be "drilling" holes to take them. The holes will be a bit smaller than necessary so you can drill them out to the right diameter. When it's finally finished, I'll give a list of things that will need to be added - possibly using the photo below. One thing, I'll be printing it for myself when my printer turns up here in Canada, but I won't be printing it on Shapeways. I'm not looking to make money off it, as really I'm doing it for myself, so I'll also make the file available if anyone wants to print it off themselves. Something that will help is the photo that I was given by David Hills of the Derby Sulzer website. He has told me that he has no problems with me adding it to this thread, especially as they were A-W publicity shots. It's a lot clearer than the other photos I have. So the chassis is interesting. Either it will be a 'do it yourself' job, or I could knock a chassis 3D print file up. Problem with 3D printed ones is that they will either be flexible or will be fragile. The way I'll be doing it is to reuse the Hornby class 31 motor bogie. There are compromises with this though - wheelbase is close, but slightly out, and the wheels are disc wheels (there's info in this thread about this). To help with the wheelbase difference, I'll slightly change the axlebox positions on an alternative version so that they match the Hornby bogie wheelbase. Pony trucks - I can either put something basic together, or they could be the modeller's own. With regards to fixing points for the do it yourself chassis, I'm open to suggestions. Does that help? Jason Updated to add that I've just noticed that this photo shows the louvre on the side of the bonnet has been removed and a plate with holes in it has replaced it. To see the full image, click on it, then right click on "view image in a new tab" then click on it again.

It's practically finished now. As far as I can see, the chassis is pretty much there. I've not included any brake rigging as I think it'd be too fragile, but I might add the fixing points where necessary so they can be added later. Pretty much everything else is there. I do need to count the rivets once more. With regards to the axleboxes, I contacted the gentleman that runs the Derby Sulzers website, and he sent me a much better version of one of the photos on the site. That photo had smaller compression artifacts and so much better detail. It allowed me to rework the axleboxes as well as the rest of the springs, etc. After doing a lot of squinting, I've found that the step on the front is a later addition, and that there was also a modification to the roof. The original roof profile also has a hump in it towards the flat end - was this removed later? The photo of the hump below is a bit of a guess. The height is from the profile drawing (which, to be fair, is quite coarse), but the width is a best guess. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? The next step are the holes to drill for the handrails, etc.

It looks like I'm in the pound for another day; I'm allowed out tomorrow. I did the following overnight: the fan, which is located inside the ducting. I'm thinking that the fan will have a small hole in the bottom, with a corresponding one in the ducting, so it can be easily mounted centrally on a rod - could even be powered I suppose, the roof. 99% done, the exhaust cowl was a massive pain as each point had to be moved by hand. I've some squinting still to do on the blunt end, redid the beading. Although close, the original wasn't of a uniform thickness, so it all came off and was replaced. Also included beading on the ends either side of the doors, finished the blunt end. I've only really got one good photo of that end (the dark one with the man standing next to the loco that I uploaded a couple of years ago), but it does seem to show a lot more detail. Still a fair bit to do though. My idea is that the exhaust ducting will be printed separately, so the mesh over the opening can be added before sliding it up. cheers Jason

That's true, although, this loco was also given the D9 identity by A-W. Interestingly, they pushed the idea of these running in pairs like Cl 20s, but only the one was built in the end.

I thought I'd give it a go - I actually prefer it! I wonder is the real reason why the LNER wouldn't entertain one wasn't because they didn't care for diesels, but because they didn't know how to line it.