JCL

Mike's idea worked incredibly well. You can see the chassis layers in the cutting diagram below. Even using a compass point, it doesn't take long before you can apply just the right amount of pressure without going through the plastic.

That’s excellent. It’s very smooth.

Hi there, thanks again both of you. I'll ask the original person about the photos to see if they can do anything differently. cheers Jason

Hi there, we've narrowed it down to Gilston. Looking again, the saddle on the first tone does look higher than on the second, and the handrail is also higher compared to the cab details.

You'll probably use up a fair bit of your first bottle getting to know your printer and doing calibrations (if your printer needs this). I think I got through a litre very quickly in the first few weeks doing this and printing anything of interest that I could get a hold of!

That was fast! Thank you for letting me know.

Hi there, I hope someone can help. The Society I'm in has been asked if we can identify this loco and its location. Looking at the photos, the loco seems to be called Gilston. And based on the history of the person in the photos, we think it might be somewhere in the Wortley, Leeds area before they moved to just south of York Road (east Leeds). Does anyone have any ideas? cheers Jason

Thank you! I was just thinking about this thread a few days ago. Unfortunately I'll be heading over in the Spring next year, but strange things can happen, and maybe two trips might be possible. And eventually, where am I?

Would something like this help? I found it on Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:165389

It came out really well Mick. You can barely see there’s a motor there. How well does it run?

Oh absolutely on the rolling your own, I've been looking at some pretty niche stuff (have a quick shufty at MickLNER's post on the photo printer in the 3D printing forum for one of them). I think that 3D printing generally will be a boon for pre-grouping modellers.

Got your message Mick, but I'll reply here - it looks fantastic! Thanks for the photos.

I'm going through all of Mike's posts commenting - sorry Mike to be doing it to old posts, but some very interesting points are being raised! On Shapeways, yes, the prices are increasing a lot, and it seems that they keep tweaking the algorithm that is doing the pricing, so you never really know from one week to another how much a model will cost. I worked out on my Moai resin printer that I could print out an open wagon for about 60p and a 2-4-0 loco is about 1.20. That includes resin, cleaner (isopropyl alcohol), kitchen towels and power, but not the price of the printer (obviously!). The other thing Mike, is that the Silhouette was great for things that were flat in at least one plane, so was great for coaches, buildings, etc. It'll be interesting how your output changes over time to include other types of models.

Mike, we all stumble at first. If we didn't we would never be able to 'get into our stride'. I think that you are making tremendous progress, and once you become a second dan(?) black belt in this, I've no doubt that you'll be firing models out left right and centre. I'm often having to drop tools for months at a time, and since the last time I used it, my software of choice, Blender, has had a major interface clean up and change. You can imagine the conversations I was having in my head when I was attempting to get back into the swing of things.

Hi Mike, I think you're spot on there. 3D printing for a robust shell and then the silhouette etc for your livery application. I once did a test of printing transfers onto waterslide paper and then cutting them out with a Silhouette - it worked pretty well too. A couple of quick ones, have you seen this on Thingiverse? It's a website with free 3D models on it, and 2 of them appear to be GWR coaches - probably not of uch use to you, but you may find them interesting https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3153287 The other thing is, if you have a machine with Windows 10 on it, there is an app on there called 3D builder (also available form Microsoft's store app). While it doesn't have a lot of functionality, it's stl repair feature is fantastic. There are no options (sometimes this is a good thing), and it's never failed me with regards to meshes that are not quite right.

I don't have the Photon, but the model I do have has had vat movement reported from time to time. One thing that helps people is to squeeze some card between the vat and holder to keep it steady. Would that work on yours?

Hi there, that traction engine looks good. It's not particularly 3D friendly as it stands, but would make a great starting point for something more detailed - maybe a couple of ploughing engines. It's Strassenlokomotive on the site.

Looking good James! I was just thinking though, if you do this again, you might want to consider doing a prototype in card before a 3D printed one to speed up the process and save a bit of cash.

Sorry Steve, it could be clearer - are you saying access to magazines already downloaded onto devices would stop? This is what is causing the confusion in the two quotes below. Cornholio is talking about devices, and is correct on this point if: the BRM Exact Editions app is the same as the one I use on my RM subscription, the Exact Editions app used has not been updated to block the ability to read pre-downloaded (synced) magazines. If the above is true, then in my experience using an iOS device, you can still access the downloaded magazine after you let your subs lapse. I did so last year using my iPad. As Great Bear says, you cannot re-download a magazine if you delete it, and you cannot download new magazines because access to the servers storing the magazines is blocked. This was my experience when I let my RM subscription lapse. The Great Bear would also be correct Kiwi's linked post is from 2007, and is a red herring as it is literally saying that they will not allow issues to be downloaded, period. This is something that has obviously become available in the intervening 12 or so years. I like the RM approach, so if this is the same, then I will convert to this scheme after my PocketMags subs expires this Autumn. cheers Jason

Now that's quite the result Congratulations on a late birthday present to yourself!

Looking forward to seeing it running about Photo on it's way. If anyone's interested, the other model is by Chris P/Dave, who has put in a chassis and painted it. You can find it here (page 45 1/2 way down):

Happy birthday from a coolish Vancouver Island, and my fingers are crossed for your job interview!

Good luck, I hope you managed to get all of it off! I had a similar problem, except it was a PDMS vat (silicon-type gel above an acrylic base), and there was nothing I could do. I removed the gel and it's now a good container for holding bits and pieces. Now I've the same vat style as you, and I'm looking forward to getting it up and running when I finally get a spare hour.

Hi there, also, with the printer I have, there is a minimum temperature for operating based on the resin being used. Standard resin should be at 25C+ and the 'HiTemp' should be 30C+ . For this reason I have a seedling heater pad inside the cabinet of my printer. The floor of the coach might also be causing the problem as it increases the suction between the part and the vat. It's one of the reasons why a lot of people print at an angle. I've decided not to print floors because of this problem.

I'm in Canada on a digital subscription via Pocketmags on an iPad - I think it's due in November. What would happen in my case? Also, if I can't get over to the UK, could I give my ticket to a different family member?