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JCL

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Everything posted by JCL

  1. Since I was here last, we unfortunately lost my wife's mum, so I've been briefly in the UK, and now I'm back here. In a few hours I'll be picking my wife up at the airport and heading off to the beach for Christmas and a bit of downtime. I've not finished the things I was hoping to finish, but I've been able to do a few things. Keeping going with these mdf and card wagons, I've started putting together a brake and a covered wagon. I think I'll stop with these when I have them finished as I want to get started on the Havenhouse buildings. I'll be able to finish these over Christmas, This one I appear to have made up! I wasn't concentrating, and created some sort of hybrid. The roof is 1/32 ply, which bends really well and is much sturdier than card - (even though a corner is up in the photo). I'm wondering if I can steam this wood and then clamp it to a former. If I can, then I'll be able to also use it on coach roofs. And finally, using the laser to do something useful. My mother-in-law was a keen gardener, so I've cut this sign into slate to put up by the new flower bed that we will use for cut flowers. Merry Christmas everyone, and here's to a happy and healthy new year.
  2. Photo #2, this was part of marketing by the LNER promoting the 1938 Flying Scotsman. This was the ‘old style’ train that did a tour in 1938. There’s quite a few photos knocking around, and unbelievably, some colour film. JWealleans has modelled the whole train a couple of years ago. There’s some more information here about the coaches: https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=10667&hilit=Scotsman+1938
  3. Thanks everyone, I think I could have explained it better. I do use Lightburn myself (I move directly from Vetrics Cut-2D and find it’s brilliant), but I was wondering more about the carving side of things. Here’s the post I was looking at, monkeysarefun was using a laser web for his tests and I was wondering if he has tried in Lightburn.
  4. Hi @monkeysarefun, on the Darkly Labs forum (and I think, here) you showed us how you carved some panels in wood using your Emblaser and Laserweb. Have you tried this with Lightburn, and if you did, can you let me know how you got on?
  5. We also need badges and a slogan. who do we know that can print t-shirts?
  6. Cheers Mike, I think I can get the stuff from the art store in Victoria, I'll root around for the machine.
  7. I've been having a problem with the white text, I've tried 3 aerosols and using paint on a stippling brush with the stencils, but I think it will have to wait for the airbrush. It's been below freezing here, so unfortunately, as I have to spray outside at the moment, it'll have to wait. :-/ Also, I seem to be doing this after dark, and there's cougars in them thar hills at the moment (my neighbour had one use his lawn as a toilet the other day. The bear on the other hand hasn't been seen for a couple of weeks now, so hopefully (s)he's tucked up somewhere. In the meantime, I've been working on two of the other older designs - the pedigree cattle wagon and the Southampton covered van. The first is about finished and the other needs a bit of re-jigging, but it's getting there. I've a whole load of vents I bought during my last spurt from Mike T's shop on Shapeways, so I'll be using them on the rooves. The pedigree van in the photo was undercoated in grey and then overpainted in Vallejo Red Black, it's close, but a bit purplish. I did another one which I broke with a red undercoat, and this was much closer to the Phoenix GN wagon paint chip I have. The roof is a light grey and waiting for some eyeshadow or something. I saw some weathering pastels in the local model shop and they were $20 for 4 colours! The Dollar Store is where I'll be heading to - and it means I can browse around for all sorts of other rubbish cheap treasures while I'm there. Quick question - roofs or rooves? I'm a rooves man, but apparently I'm archaic.
  8. Double post - here's the file I created for the prototype 12 tons coal wagon (private owners pattern) rmweb.svg
  9. Hi there, I've finally had a chance to do some things. I've been drawing a few things up over the last couple of weeks, and thought I'd make a coal wagon after seeing this photo on Ebay. I've made a guess with the colour. I'll be doing another one for the other coal merchant, which I do know from my uncle who passed away a couple of years ago, was yellow and black. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WAINFLEET-RAILWAY-WAGON-S-E-WARTH-WAINFLEET-STATION-RP-c-1910-Nr-SKEGNESS/352799267116?hash=item522479992c:g:aEIAAOSwHbJdh-lo The stencils and the base with the pegs to keep everything square. The letters are a little bit blurred, but an awful lot better than I could do with a paintbrush! At this point it's waiting for the last colour - blue to do the centre of the A, R, etc. The model on the track. The body was from 1.5mm MDF, and everything underneath was 1mm MDF. Just needs buffers, couplings and weathering. It's not amazing, but I was pretty pleased with it for a prototype - especially the register of the different colours. I'll do it again, this time I'll make a change to do both sides at the same time, add the strapping and score the planks inside, and better take into account the kerf on the laser cutter to ensure that the inside of the 0, etc in blue are not too big. 3' rule though and a bit of weathering and it'll look fine.
  10. I hope you don't mind me putting this up, I've added this to RMWeb a couple of times, and it never ceases to make me smile. According to E.F. Carter, the GNR locomotive colour was "green of one shade or another"; "bright, almost grass green"; "green"; "light grass-green"; "slightly yellower green than [a colour previously described as green]" or "bright green".
  11. I agree Chris, this is a great idea! I’ve a shy dog, and have found collars, etc, with shy written on them, maybe that’s an option
  12. I imagine this won’t help at all, but the darker bluish-green on GNR tenders was also called holly green. As an aside to my aside, I read once that at the dawn of the GNR, the locos were the same shade of green as the GWR ones as that was the colour the manufacturer chose. Of course, if I see a citation needed for that last one, I’ll deny all knowledge of saying it.
  13. Wow, that's incredibly good! Thanks for sharing the files.
  14. I remember reading in the articles in Model Railroader that Rod’s forte was building kits, erm, kits of buildings. He was busy putting together sky scrapers at the time, and apparently one of his hotel requests was a big table set up to work on. Had to leave windows open because of the glue fumes. I must find those articles someday and read them again.
  15. Hi Graham, I know that this isn't exactly what you're looking for, but are you set on 3D printing in clear resin, or have you thought about getting a prototype done and casting instead? Also, it might be worth talking to @Knuckles to see if he has looking into clear resin.
  16. It seems to be over here too. My dog ventured out into the fog and I didn't see him again until I banged his food bowl.
  17. Aha! Now that explains it! I hope you have a great time.
  18. It's funny, I got on with Blender, but never could work with Sketchup. Maybe it's the way my brain is wired. The thing about Blender is that it was built for 3D modelling and animation for movies. There is a load that you wouldn't use, and there are some bits missing (flanges on chimneys are a bit involved), but overall I like it a lot. As some of the others have said, if you want to first work with something really simple, give Tinkercad a go, or if that's too basic, Fusion 360. @chris p bacon got on really well with Tinkercad making chimneys, domes and buffers, and he'll be the first to tell you that he's not really into doing 3D design.
  19. Hi Duncan, I swapped to an Emblaser https://darklylabs.com/ . I'm more of a card/wood person than styrene.
  20. I don’t use the Silhouette anymore, but I did have a rummage around for a possible answer. has anyone tried the steps in this thread. They seem to be a bit flaky, but they are working for some people https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows8_1-hardware/silhouette-cameo-computer-wont-recognise-device/1637e7aa-6aa5-42e2-a391-0be14ccfd77d?page=1 Someone has also used a USB hub to do the heavy lifting of converting from USB 1.0 to USB 3.0 and back again, tricking Win 10 into thinking it’s dealing with a USB 3 device, so that could be an option. https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/2232203-windows-10-and-usb-1-0-device-support-over-usb-3-0-interface Finally, some computers come with a mixture of different USB ports, such as 2 and 3, so if you haven’t tried already, make sure you try all the ports To see if anything at all works.
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