mikesndbs

Right, drawing on everything else I have worked out the following: So, for 121.92cm (or 4 feet) divide 207.2727 by time in seconds = MPH scaled. Phew! got there (based upon scale 0.013157894736842 1/76th as decimal. 30480cm (1000 feet) (1000 real feet = 401.0526315789 cm scaled) 30480 X 0.013157894736842 = 401.0526315789 cm 401.0526315789 cm is scale 1000 feet or 30480cm)

There seems to be as many ways of doing this as members in the forum! There must be a set formula taking the knowns of scale 1/76th distance and time in seconds. LOL I am more confused than when I started. Easily done I guess

Good morning. An internet search produces many confusing offerings so I thought I'd ask the knowlagebile folk here. I want to calculate the speed of my OO gauge trains over say 24 inches of track. I get that speed= Speed = distance divided by time. So if my train takes 10 seconds to travel 24 inches that would be 24/10 = 2.4 Which I think is real world speed? Lost after this. Many thanks

Hi What is the formula behind this calculator please? Trying to work out speed over 609.6mm Many thanks Mike

Hi guys Just been restoring this lovely loco but have become stuck with the movement of the crosshead one side. It does not bind now but still makes an annoying pop as it runs. Please have a look and offer your thoughts?

Where did you get the vans from please?

A very interesting write up. Does not appear to consider the effect of cleaning the track with non polar solvents that tends to prevent oxidation. While I certainly don't have the professional training to dispute the section about plastic wheels breaking down and leaving deposits behind, I have to say I am surprised! I have plastic wheel sets that are many decades old and still look like they did when new, also would not the plastic wheel pick up dirt far faster than it wore down? and would not that dirt form a covering preventing the plastic wearing down? Fascinating discussions

Hi guys, so a good conclusion to my problems, here is what I did If anyone has any other comments about the valve gear I'd be most interested.

Hi Philip Ah yes Electrolube is still out there, it is a very, very effective light lubricator and conductivity enhancer and used in the right places (like Dapol's terrible class 73 pickups) its very good. However it is utterly pervasive and will always get where it should not be so great care has to be used. I run mostly metal wheels and it is these that are getting the build up. Cheers

Guys, your findings would be most appreciated? Those who have switched from IPA to a non-polar cleaner recently. Do you find your unpowered wheels seem to get dirtier more quickly? My track is certainly cleaner for much longer, but I am seeing what I think is a bigger build up of crud on wheels. Thanks

Hi Mark, I am so pleased.

Question is are they all like mine or are some correct, can anyone else post similar photos of theirs?

Ok, this is weird, I was watching the middle pair pumping back and forth then changed me position to observe that not only were they going back and forth but also up and down!!! This led me to look at the bottom plate(s) and the securing method. The break roding and shoes come off as one bit, under is the pick up plate. Only two screws are used to secure all of this. The end furthest away from the gear drive (so the front of the loco) looks to be split? Anyway I experimented with sliding it about very slightly with the screws in lose. I found a point where the concentric running stopped and quickly tightened the screws. While the middle pair still pull from side to side they do not go up and down anymore and the loco can now crawl (albeit noisily) without stalling. Certainly a poor design, the tolerance for adjustment is only that allowed by the slack in the screw holes. I did make sure that the wires went directly down the hole in the chassis rather than being trapped between the two plates as was clearly obvious before I did this.

Hmm, I think I see what you mean, looking at the full screen here https://www.stationroadsteam.com/5-inch-britannia-stock-code-5156/fullscreen/1/ So with wheels cranks at the bottom the Eccentric Crank should be leaning forward and the expansion link leaning back at the top. This then suggests that the wheels have been put on the axel wrongly as there are flats on the crank pin to locate them as shown above

Hi, is this how you mean?

Hi, I tried to replicate yours. I feel it looks the same but could be wrong?

Hi all, I took a couple of close up photos of the valve gear in the same position. Can anyone spot a problem? Just wondering if there is anything obvious.

Thanks, do you think the return crank os on wrong on my model then?

None taken, Cheers.

Hi Gutted, here is loco number two after the first one had to be sent back. I've checked everything, coupling rods are not locking, everything seems to be fine, wheels are not bent etc, etc. Yet it does this and it is horrid at slow speeds and twitches at higher ones. I am so hoping this is a simple solvable issue. I am posting this to see if anyone has an idea what might be going wrong here. The loco a brand new Hornby R3865 has been like this from the start and despite a good bit of running it continues. The middle pair of driving wheels seem to pump hard to one side at the same time the loco slows. At speed it’s not too bad but viewed from above it can be seen to twitch. The big problems come at low speed when this has a significant bad effect on running. This is my 2nd loco the first was broken on arrival and was sent back. I’ve fitted details etc. now and kind of think sending it back I will probably get something even worse. Have to say I am really getting put off buying new stuff, if it was £50 or so you might look past it but nearly £200 it should be perfect. Thanks for looking.

Right don't know if I should start a new thread or not, but here is an update on the second model. I honestly don't know what is causing it.

Thanks guys, so out of the one shown in the photo or a SR green one which would look less out of place attached to a 1960s express? mind you 75MPH does not cut it really does it???

Hi Can anyone give me a date range for the PMVs' made by Bachmann shown here? Hattons say era 5 I'd like it if they were around into the late 60s?

Hi guys Got my new loco yesterday (Amazon) Thankfully she is better but have a couple of questions and observations. This is R3865. Instructions refer to speedo cable but none is fitted. Brake rigging for loco and tender does not match the instructions. Pony truck axle boxes are not yellow, when was this carried for real please? Whistle was lose in the box. Ran terribly jerky initially with the middle pair of driving wheels seen to jump up at the same place on the stroke. However, about an hours running in things are better. I've oiled around externally but given how delicate those lubricators are and the caution on the instructions, can anyone give detailed advice on opening the body up so I can oil the grindy sounding motor please?

Hi I can help you a bit! Please check out this video that will detail the differences between WD40 and WD40 Contact Cleaner. You are spot on that you should not use WD40 on your track or wheels, WD40 is the brand name but they now also make a non-polar contact cleaner that I recommend for track and wheels. Used properly a Peco track rubber is a fine tool to deal with any stubborn crud you find, use it lightly with only very light pressure and don't scrub. Every so often clean the rubber with contact cleaner and it will be good to go again. I examined the rails after use and in fact found the use of the rubber burnished the rails removing very fine scratches. Wheel cleaning, WD40 contact cleaner again or as you suggested lighter fuel, IPA, Contact Cleaner, Lighter Fuel are all highly flammable and you need to ventilate during wide scale use, but these also evaporate really fast such that the danger soon passes. Plastic versus metal, I am in the same boat as you. Since swapping to WD40 Contact Cleaner and or lighter fuel, I've not noticed much build up. I'd like to change simply because there is less drag with metal but yes the price of wheels is high! Hope this helps.