Crosland

OK, so at the 1C rate we can assume a flat 1.2V output discharged to 80% capacity (from Energizer NiMH application data). When boosted to 12V that still gives a constant 400mA discharge for 48 minutes, considerably more with typical loco driving characteristics. I am not talking Hornby Dublo here, it would need to be a modern model with an efficient motor.

Had a very quick reply from the Association sales officer. It has always been the intention and in future the straight rails should be posted out in suitable packaging to keep them straight. Andrew

Neither the voltage, e.g., 3V or 12V, nor the size and shape (AA v button cells), has to affect the amount of energy stored, if other things are equal. For a given battery technology, a given volume can store the same amount of energy, regardless of the battery voltage. There may be inefficiencies due to wasted space in packing multiple cylindrical cells, but other shapes are available. What really matters is how much power the motors need, i.e., how quickly the energy store is depleted. You could use a couple of 2200mAH AA NiMH cell and use a voltage boost circuit to generate whatever higher voltage you want. Discharging at the 1C rate (i.e. discharged in 1 hour, or 2200mA in this case) with a cell voltage of 1.4V at 90% efficiency (should be achievable) would give almost 1/2 Amp at 12V, for an hours running. In practice the run time will be much longer unless you run your trains flat out and never stop them.

I know I really should take this up with the society shop keeper (which I now will) but my recent order of 500mm lengths were bent to fit in a large Jiffy bag. That's how I ended up with rail being bent in the vertical plane. Next time I order I will request a postal tube, even if it costs more. Andrew

The biggest issue is when its bent in the vertical plain. It's much harder to grip and straighten that way. Andrew

No need to put them through the same quality control, either

ANE model is a Taiwanese business that sells their own design range of products http://www.anemodel.com/some of which are sold by Peco as their smartswitch range. Wickness Models are the only listed UK dealer.

If the coach light has too large a capacitor fitted for "flicker-free" operation and no current limiting resistor these can cause havoc with the DCC system. I seem to recall early Hornby Pullmans caused problems, some time ago now.

Make your own thin PCB to any thickness you want with self adhesive copper foil on plasitcard.

I just spent a whole day making DGs:) It is a bit time consuming but I find using the bending jig as per instructions gets you most of the way. Wrap a few turns of the PB wire, hold tight and cut through them, trying not to let the loops turn into ping-f**kits in the process. Square up with flat faced pliers. To solder the dropper I hold the loop and dropper in a miniature wooden clothes peg, squared of at the ends of the jaw, with 2-3mm poking out. Solder then turn round and make the rest of the joint. The peg will tend to soak up the flux at first. Andrew

Does the fibre glass brush work for getting the flux off? That's my main concern.

Moving on from the old layout has allowed me to focus and actually contemplate doing something. The "something" being my first DIY track in any scale or gauge. Not for me a simple turnout, lets build a crossover Thanks to those who gave advice on the 2mm VAG and to all involved in the "Track" book http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/trackbook/ Finished, still on the work board (two layers of 5mm foam board): I attached the sleepers to a sheet of OHP film with a minimum of double sided tape. After assembly the film was peeled off carefully. A cruel close up before cleaning: As an experiment I made some wing rails as separate pieces, some as extensions of the switches, isolated with a piercing saw after assembly. The latter produces better results, at least in my hands: On a plastic chopping board for cleaning. The residual stickyness holds it in place and allows for a reasonably vigorous scrub with CiF: So, how do you clean track that is built in-situ, on a non-waterproof surface, too big to get under the tap? The finished item, just waiting sleeper gapping, tie bars and operating unit. The sleepers are a bit uneven, but I'm well pleased with the trackwork and a test wagon runs through in all directions Go on, have a go yourself! Andrew

After very slow progress and a lot of dithering, I have decided this layout does not meet my requirements and am offering it to anyone who can collect it from Haddenham, Buckinghamshire. Please PM me for more details of the state of the layout.

Not quite free, but a job lot of the first 25 issues of LMS Journal for less than £3 each inc. P&P. Sold 6 I already had for £7 each I've often aggregated things into one listing where I had multiples to sell, but I can only assume it puts a lot of bidders off.

Be aware that some of these do not go all the way down to 0. They do, however, make very good mini-drill controllers. Andrew

Someone seems to be a little confused between scale and gauge. I never heard a farish power bogie described as finescale before http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-9mm-N-gauge-2mm-FINESCALE-GWR-14xx-0-4-2-Tank-Autocoach-BRASS-KITBUILT-/221799041616?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item33a440ca50

Reminds me of the Matchbox motorway I had as a kid. Andrew

You need smooth, not pulsed, DC to cure that and, more generally, DC running needs to be enabled in the chip.

OK. I was looking at what looks like a path on the far bank that goes to a dead end at the bridge.

If Jerry's bridge is a normal bridge, where does the horse go when it reaches the bridge travelling right to left in the picture? Yes, I know horses can swim

I do enjoy building kits but that remark is a direct hit!

Is the Black 5 chassis for the Farish body? Perhaps not a question directly for you, but will this affect the decision whether or iot to restock the Black 5 kits? Andrew

It's known as spreading FUD, or Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt. Plenty of that in this thread

Kapton is often specified where something very thin and/or able to withstand heat is required. If those requirement do not apply then almost any insulator will do.

There are a number of reasons why it's useful to allow a servo it's full travel and then use mechanical means to adapt it to the required throw. - Mitigating the effect of any twitch in the servo. - Better resolution of slow speed operation by slowly changing the pulse width from one exrteme to the other. - Simple control circuit with just two switchable pulse widths