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Jintyman

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  1. There is an article here: http://www.clag.org.uk/green09.html More involved information here: http://www.irse.org/minorrailways/publicdocuments/PA01%20-%20Mechanically%20Operated%20Points%20v2.pdf I've only just found the latter this morning, so I will have a ponder before continuing. Talyllyn did have a recess in at least one place on the platforms, so the compensators I've already done can stay. Thanks for the information Miss P. I'm puzzled that Talyllyn had two compensators from the signal box to the turnout in the tunnel as, according to my reading, with the distance it could of been dealt with without any compensators. Or is it because it is on a curve? Jinty
  2. Thanks Chris, The black line on the baseboard is the position of the platform edging, so I'll need about a 1' rebate to clear the compensators. Hi Brian, The rodding itself is the square section from MSE, as well as the etches for the cranks, feet and compensators. I think Modelu do the standard BR rodding stools, but I do have some whitemetal castings here you can have if they are the right ones. I'll send you a picture tomorrow. You nag more than my Mrs!!!!! Yes I'm going to start, and finish the platforms, it is about time, isn't it? Thanks Grahame, Yes the stools are the excellent Modelu ones, the MSE square section rodding slips through them nicely. That's a rather nice lever frame you have there. I do prefer to separate my turnout control from the driving of the trains, after all, it is just like that on the real thing!!! Jinty
  3. Good evening all, Rested and relaxed, from being on top of that Welsh mountain, then stressed up to the hilt as soon as the break was over!!!! Oh well, that's life!!! On a bit of a downer as well, I'd made a bit of a boo boo with the platforms on Talyllyn. I'd actually made the uprights about 3mm too high which was a bit of a schoolboy error, but it needed addressing. So I've ripped up all of the platform sub-structure on both sides and cleared the decks. I also had a thought, dangerous I know, but I thought that it may be so much easier if I got the point rodding, signal wire and pulleys all in place prior to putting the reworked platform sub-structure in place. Glad I did now as making up and fitting the likes of the compensators would of been nigh on impossible once the platforms were in place. So at least a little positive from a negative, which is always a bonus. I've started with the twin rodding run alongside platform 2 which is the turnout in the tunnel and it's associated FPL. I might of worked it out wrong, but in the total run from the signal box to the turnout and FPL I can see two compensators in photographs along the whole run. So I've started on the first section from the box to the first compensator. Here are a couple of pictures of progress: And a cruel close-up of the first compensator, probably incorrect, but it's going to be shadowed considerably by the platform. I've also had the distinct pleasure of two stunning Ground signals from Jon Fitness delivered this week. He does such an excellent job of them, his craftsmanship is second to none. I will take a couple of pictures of them, and the recent home signal on the Merthyr line that I haven't taken a picture of yet!!! I have also received a Megapoints board with which to control the signals, I just need to make up a proper control panel now, to fit the buttons and LEDs to. I have decided to work my Cobalt IP Digital point motors via push button only, not via DCC control. I prefer the option of pushing a button to change the points rather than typing in an address into my handset, this means I will be able to put my Multimaus controller back into service as a slave controller. I will power the Cobalts via a 12v DC transformer and the frog switching will be via a Hex Frog Juicer as most of them already are. I am having the platform framework (sub-structure) laser cut for me for accuracy, then I will clad the platform edging with the Slaters stone sheets I already have. More pictures very soon Jinty EDITED: To say I've just spotted a chair missing, how did that happen?????
  4. I agree with the above regarding building your own turnouts as I went down that route myself to 31.5mm (O-MF)for better running. I have used the Intentio wooden sleepers throughout and I stain them first with a Rustins wood stain (Colour to choice) and glued C&L chairs to the wood with no failures at all. If, as Simon says, you make your own Vees and blades, it cuts the costs down to well below the cost of a Peco point. I think Phil at Intentio had some sort of offer on his sleepers recently. As for C&L I can't comment about delivery/ordering as I haven't run out of anything since the change of ownership, but the quality of the rail and chairs is excellent. I also purchased MEK on-line in a litre bottle which is a lot cheaper than buying the branded 'Butanone' and works exactly the same. Here is a picture of my hand built, showing the necessity of using hand built track. All built to O-MF and works very well indeed, I'm glad to say. Enjoy your foray into 7mm, I was modelling in 4mm mainly, and went to 7mm a few years ago and haven't looked back. Jinty
  5. All looking very good Brian, you'r buildings are superb, why do you think you're doing mine for me????? lol There will be no stopping you two now, get some Cool White LED lights up in the attic and your phone should behave better. I use multi light ceiling fittings that take GU10 bulbs and purchase 10 x GU10 'Cool White' bulbs off Amazon for around £22!!! These give excellent light coverage and your phone camera and video should cope ok with it. Jinty
  6. Hi Coachman, You've heard and driven my Jinty which is the same sound file by Paul Chetter as Andy's and I think you may be able to get your current Zimo re-blown by Digitrains with that file. It's the one with the 4 gear positions built into it. I'm away now till later next week, but let me know when I'm back if you want to borrow it to try out before plunging. Jinty
  7. I've transfered the 3 pictures from the GOG site: Jinty Edited to say that I've just seen Craig's pictures are now visible!!!!!! Doh!!! Right off on Holibobs!!!
  8. About to set off for a good few days relaxing on top of a mountain!!!

    1. Show previous comments  5 more
    2. Hroth

      Hroth

      Bare on the Night Mountain.....

       

       

      Brrrr!

    3. NGT6 1315

      NGT6 1315

      Depends on who is bare on the night mountain, eh? xD

    4. Hroth

      Hroth

      At least it's not the Night Garden, who would want to be surprised "en dishabille" by the Ninky Nonk?

       

  9. And I think one of them is still an Ovlov specialist!!! Jinty
  10. Agreed with Martyn, I haven't set mine up with my Lenz yet, but I have had a go with one and it's brilliant. I know you've got the Signatrak system awaiting delivery, that again looks like a good system. All looking good, have you got rail and chairs yet? Jinty
  11. Hi Martin, Buildings, they frighten me, I have to have mine built by someone else!!! I like the wooden garage building, there was a similar one many years ago at the end of the road from Ysbyty Ifan to Ffestiniog, the junction of the B4407 and B4391. It was a filling station, a bit out in the wilds, but my Dad used to stop there and I'd get Ice Cream in the summer. I remember it well as I used to see a Morris Minor van there with the garage name on it, and as a young boy, I had a liking for Moggie Minor vans and Pick-ups. There was no ramp, just a pit, and the mechanic was always very dirty!!! From my memory there were quite a few of this type of building around N. Wales, and you've made an excellent job of that one. The layout is coming along nicely too, just had a catch up (from July 2017!!!), shame on me eh? Promise to do better in the future!!! Jinty
  12. Hi Grahame, Yes the springing is very light, but under normal conditions, ie, normal stock, it doesn't 'kangaroo', the stock just follows as it should. The only reason, I think, for the jerking is my E147 coach as the wheels are too big for my 31.5mm gauge trackwork, and thus dragging as it's being pulled along. I don't think it would be a difficult job to fit a heavier spring if you so required either. Where do the trains go? Well next to my garage is a small outhouse which is 8' x 8' and the trains currently just go into this, but once my new shed at the bottom of my garden has been built, they will continue on, down the garden to the new shed, therefore giving an extra 40' - 45' run. Thanks for watching Jinty
  13. Totally agree Coachman, I believe the problem lays with the Tower E147 Composite. The E147 is not a good runner on my handbuilt track, yet everything else is. I took the bogie off and compared the wheels to other wheels on coaching stock and the flange is a clear 0.75mm deeper than anything else I have, also the angle of the tread is steeper, making the wheel sit much lower to the extent of catching the fishplate bolts. So I'm pondering on taking the axleboxes and wheels out of the bogies and substituting them for Peartree Engineering ones that I have in stock. Alternatively I may buy alternative bogies for the E147 and just do a straight replacement. Jinty
  14. I ask myself the very same question!! Never mind, I'm off on our usual Wednesday/Thursday buying sprees with work tomorrow, so won't get anything done except sitting behind a steering wheel for two days, Mancherster tomorrow, Blackbushe on Thursday!!! Grrrrr Jinty
  15. I made a small video this evening with a couple of trains at Talyllyn, one of which has been fitted with a lamp for train reporting on the front as a stopping passenger train. Hope you enjoy Jinty
  16. Total change of medium and pace............................. Two JLTRT BR 12t Banana vans, duly completed bar for a couple of bits of painting. B881716 & B882094 for Talyllyn. Peartree Engineering 3-hole disc wheels & bearings and the JLTRT buffers machined, springs cut in half and collars soldered on the back. I've also replaced the plastic tie rod for some brass as well as the brake guards in thin brass as the whitemetal ones look a bit too chunky to me. Finished in Body: Cellulose BR Bauxite Chassis: Halfords Satin Black. Body over sprayed with Testors Dullcote after the excellent Railtec transfers had been applied. Given a quick run up and down Talyllyn Junction a couple of times to make sure they run well, and then put to one side ready for weathering at some point. Another little project that has come off my workbench is my Minerva 8750 Pannier after being fitted with a lamp designating a stopping passenger train (which is what it will be doing!). I've used a Bi-colour LED lamp from YouChoos through a 10k resistor for this end of the train, and this is part of an experiment with an Autocoach which I'm finishing off. The Autotrailer has also been fitted with the same LED in the central upper position on the driving end. The idea is that the loco and Autocoach can be set as a consist and therefore will have a white lamp at the front and a red lamp at the rear dependant on direction. Obviously I know that 8750's wen't auto fitted but It will do for the B'set once I get that sorted out. This was just to see if I could make it work ok without seeing much of the wires, etc. The only reservation I have is that when in reverse with the Autotrailer the red lamp is on the top lamp iron and doesn't look right. Here are a couple of pictures and I'm putting a video on my Talyllyn thread where you can see it working. Comments, ideas always gratefully received Jinty
  17. Welcome to 7mm!!! I can heartily agree with both of the above comments regarding building your own track. I was daunted as the double junction in my layout required a single slip and a threeway but after getting the plan printed on Templot and just setting about it carefully and steadily, I had the whole complex built in a week of evenings. It is also works out cheaper per turnout than Peco, and will look great in comparison, more flowing and each turnout is built for the specific requirement, not trying to make a standard turnout fit a particular space. 7mm is a wonderful scale, it has the ability to excess in detail and the sheer presence of an O gauge locomotive, or a simple wagon is so much more than 4mm, let alone 2mm. I like your plan, it has some great operating opportunities and excellent 'play value'. Ideally suited for some of the recent releases such as the Panniers and B'sets and the forthcoming ones such as the 14xx, 63xx and the 45xx, plus lots of wagons from Dapol and the likes. You will find lots of good advice on here and you may benefit from joining the Gauge O Guild as some of the 7mm traders don't advertise in the regular monthlies. All the very best with your adventure, I hope you get lots of enjoyment from it, after all, that's what it's all about. Jinty
  18. I've used the Ixion fire irons on pretty much all the locos I've done recently, including this Pannier 9648 for Talyllyn, which is still awaiting a touch of finishing. I think they look ok, and are excellent value for money@ around £5 a pack!!! Jinty
  19. I love the waterside walling and bumpers (don't know the correct term) you have fitted to the harbour, will look fantastic when they're distressed in the way that you do so well, with that attention to all the little details. As for the turnout problem, maybe a little gauge widening at the problematic point (no pun intended). I have a threeway point within my double junction complex on Talyllyn, and I'd built it to 31-5mm gauge (O-MF), but because of the sharpness of the radius of the turnout, I've had to take the gauge out at least 0.5mm to allow a smooth transition, I've also fitted an extended check rail to assist with the transition. It may help, it may not, hopefully the former! Jinty
  20. Mine was ordered on the Tuesday at around 12:30 and delivered by courier during the Wednesday with a signature. But I will certainly order from you in future as I believe in putting my money back into the model railway traders system, and I couldn't find any model railway traders who stocked it. Jinty
  21. I use Testors Dullcote in the blue labelled can and it is very MATT. I use it to seal transfers and also to tone everything down when I've weathered things. Here are a few finishes I've completed with it on a few items (all 7mm): I have sprayed Testors over clear plastic glazing and then wiped it clean (apart from the corners) with a cotton bud dipped in white spirit reasonably quickly afterwards. I would recommend testing it on an inconspicuous piece first though. Also I've recently found a supplier who supplies Testors in a pack of 3 cans for £20!!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Testors-Dullcote-Spray-Clear-1-2-or-3-Cans-85g-Aerosol/282772401213?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=582055921863&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Hope any of this helps? Jinty Edited to say, I've just seen the above offer!!!!! Damn! Ah Free P&P from Ebay, £6 from NG.............. Makes me feel a bit better!
  22. Thanks for all your kind comments, here is a short video featuring the 05....................................... Jinty
  23. The 4F looks nicely settled back in at home after its journey back from Wales. Glad the courier service did their job correctly, it's always a nervous time when expensive models are entrusted to couriers. Jinty
  24. Hi Simon, I used Javis ballast on my old Wrexbury OO layout and the PVA did turn the ballast a slight green tinge. So I swapped to Woodland Scenics ballast and it didn't do it at all, so I've stuck with WS since. My photo plank is a mixture of WS ballasts and no green at all. Jinty
  25. Blue Circle Cement No.1 at rest between duties............................................... Jinty
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