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Jintyman

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Everything posted by Jintyman

  1. Thanks Andy That VAA that I've recently posted on my WB you are referring to, has yet to see an airbrush. Up to now it is all detail painting, masking, washes and filters. put on and wiped or brushed off!!! The airbrush is the last thing I use, if at all! Nice set of wagons Andy, I'm sure you will do them justice, and yes, get rid of those silly red buffer heads!!!! Jinty
  2. Hi Matt, I'm sorry, I won't be selling this diorama. I'm bored with it, but it will still get used on occasion when I want a sleepy branch line scene. Thank you for your kind words though. Jinty
  3. Hi Matt, It is a 4' x 1' photo plank/diorama that I did to experiment with textures, trees, grasses, ballast and track building! I'm going to be putting together a more urban flavoured one very soon as I'm getting bored with this one a bit and need a change! My layout is Talyllyn Junction, which is also on the 7mm + modelling pages on here Jinty
  4. Thanks for the kind comments Well, when one hasn't got a hand brake, one has to throw one together!!!! Just got to clean it up and paint it before fitting! Jinty
  5. I haven't touched the ends and roof yet Thanks Coachman, very much appreciated. Jinty
  6. Here is a Heljan VAA , just awaiting finishing. I don't normally take pictures until the items are finished, but I thought I'd rescue my thread from way down on page 3!!! So, Heljan VAA renumbered with Railtec transfers over a painted black panel. Repair panels painted on as well as a replacement door in red oxide. Ends and roof yet to do, and I'll try to make up another handbrake lever out of some scrap etch as one side was missing. Here are a few gratuitous pictures: I will get another set of pictures of the two vans completed together before they go back to their owner at the end of this week. Jinty
  7. How can you forget thew 25????? Yes the class 47 is being revamped by Heljan in 2019, supposedly with a few livery variants. Not sure what buffer beams will but utilised, bu like the 37, it should be possible to adjust if necessary. Jinty
  8. Like the little verranda. Is that to stop the fallers??? I also rather like that wood panelling too, very nicely done. Jinty
  9. I like that Andy, and it has now got character because it is not all in a straight line, it's far more realistic. Certainly should look well with overgrown tracks in 7mm!!!! Jinty
  10. Hi Andy, Have you considered building your trackwork at all? It would solve your 'geometry' issue that Ressalder has pointed out, and it would be quite straight forward to do (and more economical too!!!). I can help wherever I can, but that way, you have the trackwork fitting the area you have and not trying to get the area fitting around fixed geometry track. Jinty
  11. Interesting Andy, the plan looks to give quite a bit of interest in movements, etc. I'm sure that with your beautifully painted backscenes and great attention to detail, it will look fantastic. Following for sure!!! Jinty
  12. Hi Rod, Two Tone Green on here was showing some laser cut drop in pieces which reduce the wheel drop at the crossing nose of the Peco points, which improve running over them considerably. I believe Parliamentary Trains supply them. Jinty
  13. Hi Andy, Here are a few 37 videos with Zimo decoders and the 'Activedrive' sound file from Paul Chetter. This soundfile is now available with Speed Lock from Digitrains here: https://www.digitrains.co.uk/ecommerce/search/zs37-0asl-class-37-0-activedrive-sl.aspx Here is the first Video: The second: And the third (Split box version): Hope that they are of some help. I have been using an old Sony minature disc video camera so the quality is not the best for video or audio. A new digital camera is required. Jinty
  14. Hi Rod and Howard, That looks somewhat more 'simplified and dependable' if they are the right words. You should have much better running and the deficit in the longest fiddle yard track lengths isn't an issue looking at where the Black 5 and its coaches are when parked. Regards Jinty
  15. I'm off up there again soon, the 'Pyg track' this time Jinty
  16. I'm sure you put these comments up here to see who posts a suitable answer first!!!! So I'll start the proceedings "I thought you already had?????" Jinty
  17. Guru????? Do I meditate? Do I chant? Do I do Yoga? No to all the above, it's official, I'm not a Guru!!!!! Peter and Andy, I simply remove one of the motors and its associated wiring, leaving the pick-ups in place so that both bogies still pick up. This has the effect of halving the current draw and making it possible to run the loco off a 'OO' type decoder (Not sure what the TTS capabilities are). I use Zimo MX645R's in place of the bigger decoder as they have a 1.5amp current draw maximum and I think 1.8amp for short bursts. I can still power a 2w 8ohm speaker with the MX645 so good sounds too. The class 20 I did for Ramchester was tested on my Talyllyn layout with about 15 kit built wagons behind it, no stalling, no interruption to the sound, great running all round. (There is a video on my YouTube channel showing the class 20 in use). I understand that it is running the parcels train at Ramchester with no problems as well. I do like the Zimo decoders as they have great 'driving' characteristics with the F2 momentary brake application, etc, which is why I tend to refer to them most of the time. You can all blame Paul Chetter for that!!!! I hope that all helps, as I say though Peter, I'm not sure what the capabilities are with the TTS decoder. One extra initiative is that once the motor has been removed, keep it to one side and if you ever wanted to revert it back to two motors it is straight forward to plop it back in. Jinty
  18. Hi Andy, I have a set of 37 ploughs here somewhere. As fot the split gears, yes they are a problem, but for your use on your small layout, there is the option of removing one motor from the end that has the split gear issue. Then remove the offending gears and throw away!!! 2 benefits from this: A) You will not have to buy a new gear straight away. B) You would be able to power the loco with a Zimo MX645R @ about £100 rather than a MX696S @ about £150!!!! The 37 will run, and pull a reasonable train with just one motor. I did a class 20 for Ramchester not long ago, removed one motor and used a Zimo MX645R and it is still pulling a decent train with no problems. Just something else to think about!!! Jinty
  19. And because it always snows in Derbyshire!!! Jinty
  20. Like this: Or maybe be tempted by a centre headcode one like this: Best Regards Jinty
  21. I totally agree Re: the Guild exchanges lately, very tiresome. A locked room and dynamite spring to mind as a cure!!!! I also agree with Ruston's comments, excellent weathering, well observed and some lovely touches. Just the hanging hosepipe out of the LH doorway now to finish her off Jinty
  22. And yet the BR 12t vans, the Ex-LMS vans and the Southern vans have only gone up a little and still represent good value. Not sure of the pricing structure with MM1, but I agree, some of the kits are somewhat dearer than they were before. Jinty
  23. Maybe use an open framed approach using 9mm ply for the formers and the track bed. Built correctly it should certainly be strong enough, and shouldn't be that heavy. Certainly lighter than chipboard with 2" x 1" softwood framework. The formers could also have holes cut into them to lighten more if required. It's really how light do you want it, without sacrificing strength. 3 posts in a couple of days, I'd have a lay down if I were you. MJinty
  24. Not sure if these meet the requirements. http://www.modelrailwaywagons.co.uk/Transfers%20Page.htm Never used them, I've always used Fox and Railtec, I just noticed them whilst looking for some tools. Jinty
  25. I have built a few copperclad turnouts for customers lately and after painting I find a little grease on the surface of where the blade rubs along helps a lot. I don't use loose heeled blades either. I also file the top edges of the copperclad, putting a slight chamfer along the edge so the blade rail has slightly less resistance against it and slides smoothly. Hope you get the electrical circuitry and a smooth blade action sorted Paul, it can be both frustrating and time consuming when a 'challenge' such as this rears its head. Jinty
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