d00m

So they have finally announced a 4 car Northern line motorised set! Internal lighting,two motors each powering the two bogies in the DM's, nem pockets on DM's decoder sockets in DM's and space for a sugarcube speaker. Not bad for £349.99, considering the price of static sets these days. Let's hope they sell cars separately as well.

if piano wire is under baseboard, simply fit a right angled crank to the wire connected to the points. The end not connected to the wire acts on the microswitch suitably mounted under baseboard next to points. Alternatively connect operating end of piano wire to the toggle of a DPDT switch.

It did come in British Outline HO Lima trainsets mid to late 1970's. I Had one! Long since binned. Only real use for it would be accessories such as lighting.

I had a similar problem with Tenshodo motors in my '38 ts. Check the back to back and adjust. Also add weight directly above the motor (I used some off cuts of lead flashing trimmed to fit) and check the pivot point is totally free as even the slightest tightness will cause problems. Clearance for the bogies under most tube stock is tight.

C&L do Hi Ni which has higher nicklesilver content, it looks more like steel...

If the actual led itself is not 'in view' sharpies work.

I'm slightly surprised by the amount of bleed there, having seen several lit S stock models. Why not ask on the London underground forum. I have had problems with some (but not all) EFE 1938 stock and needed to paint the insides. Good luck.

I saw a programme on telly South Devon Railway with views of both ends. You can probably find what you want on youtube typing in GWR auto trains. There are quite a few on there.

I've been a bit distracted by a D.I.Y. job in the kitchen (some new shelves) but managed to get started. The domed front roof has been molded in milliput and thinned out by sanding the inside. With care, I have managed to do the rivet detail using my wife's lightbox, (I knew her crafting stuff would come in useful at some point) ! Although I have spare metro model bogies, as this model will be static I am using some old jouef HO bogies from bits box. They are the right size and with the shoebeam attached you won't see that they aren't the correct pattern. Currently can't upload photos but will do soon.

It's a really long time ago, and slightly off topic but.... 'AC injection'.... What would be the effect on a coreless motor if you were to use a standard DC controller with a Relco track cleaner?

L49 (Charlie)? Thanks for posting the pics and advice. I have a stock of Johns bogies and wheels and the brass pinpoint tophat bearings. Just a couple of quick questions, did you weight the chassis ? And what thickness plasticard did you use ? I was thinking of building it in thin sheet brass or possibly braced high density fibre board a, but I could use plasticard....

Not meant to be unfair. Hoping it will relieve the boredom. I'm going to 'cheat' with the roof front by moulding it in either liquid plastic or using milliput.

I have just been tidying up & found 2x Street level models 1935 tube card tube 'kit'. Question to myself : Can I make this work as a unit to sit next to efe & Radley stuff ? Hell, with the lockdown, the worst thing that can happen is that I glue myself to workbench! Here is my check list; window and door acetates Seat windshields in acetate (cheating to work as a bulkhead) with hand rails seats with printed moquette. Driver bulkhead including seat and all control cabinets etc. Black Wrap tape (to stop light leakage) stuck to inside of carriage overlay for interior printed on laser printer (including line diagram etc) The major things are chassis and bogies.... Chassis... Metal, (got some brass also steel & aluminium sheet), or maybe, mdf ? (got that too) Here I need some ideas. In my bits box, I have 6x ancient HO Jouef bogies that could be adapted... Home brew coach lighting.................. Come on, let's do crazy things in crazy times! Oh forgot to mention, I have the wheels. Feel free to add to the list.

There's one on bay for £9.99 at the mo!

Don't know, but I did have a problem with one body. The hand rail kept coming away from boiler. In the end with a pin and the tiniest bit of superglue, it was sorted. That was seven years ago.

That's funny, I have 6. four Mainline, two Bachmann. I can't tell the difference. The oldest Mainline body seemed to have more 'space' inside - it was second hand maybe the previous owner had done that, but I don't know. All of mine run on new Bachmann chassis, Mainline ones all died.

I have been using ECM Composed controllers for over 30 years. In all that time only one unit died (I use 5), that was due to an extremely old Triang loco which drew too much current. Lots of visiting locos with all types of motors including coreless no problems at all. Just wish the company was still going - could do with two more. ( Don't want to go DCC - too many locos)!

Thanks ! Wow what a find. Loads of stuff on there I will be ordering!

They look great ! I want some of those..... Where did you get them from and how much?

Thank you. It sounds as if I have been using 0.3mm brass. Compartments , window surrounds, windows and inset doors seem to have resulted (for the most part) in a strong carriage body. Time to order in more supplies!!

I have never really paid much attention to the thickness of brass sheets for modelling as I inherited a stash and used what l 'felt' was right. However I have run out of the sheets I use for coach bodies. I generally use thin sheets as I tend to brace the inside with compartments window surrounds etc. What sort of thickness IN MILLIMETERS, would be a good choice? 0.2, 0.3, 0.5 mm? I need to be able to solder without too much distortion but be able to easily cut the sheet with a heavy duty craft knife. (As I said above, I didn't pay attention to the thickness/gauge of the sheets but I'm guessing 0.5 upwards) ? All responses welcome Dom

Exactly that. Did it work?

Andy, I see where you are coming from... how about two 6v motors that are mechanically linked - that way you force them to run at the same speed/ load thus surely the voltage across each would be equal?

While sitting here twiddling my thumbs, I had a thought. I model London Underground in 4mm scale mainly using tenshodo motors (although a coupe are black beetle), my 'units' are fixed 4 car and 3 car. I haven't had any problem coupling a 4 and a 3 together and running them together (I am DC). Outside the box now...1.5 v micro motors with gears are available quite cheaply. Has anyone tried to motorise every bogie in a 4 car set with 8 of these in series? Obviously the set would have to be permanently coupled. The size of the motors would mean that they were not encroaching on the interior of the carriages at all. It could possibly give a smoother ride. Comments?

Slightly off topic, with SR non corridor emus (eg 2EPB, etc), didn't they have a single central buffer between the two driving motor cars? If I am right, does anyone think that these could be adapted to represent the single buffer? Just an idea.