d00m

Dinky and matchbox both did them late 60's early 70's...I still have them, (unfortunately not boxed and well worn)!

type in 'led resistor calculator' input:- source voltage, led current & forward voltage and click 'calculate'. This will give you the correct resistor value required. Good luck.

Has anyone used this product and if so, how good is it? I have some heat sensitive electronic components which I can normally solder but where I want to put them it would be extremely close to expensive plastic body shell and awkward angle. Also want to use it on self adhesive copper tape attached to very 'meltable' plastic and foam.

I have not seen them... I shall look out for them. Current price for 1 meter is £5.99 and 2m is £7.99 on Amazon. If they are too bright, put a resistor between the power source and the strip. The higher resistance, the dimmer the light output. If the colour is too bright and you want a more 'yellow' colour, Sharpies are your friend they are very effective! My solution to flicker is a simple circuit using a bridge rectifier, 5v1 zenner diode, a couple of resistors and a 5v5 dual layer or super capacitor rated at anything between 0.47 to 2.5 F. On DC you can stop at a signal or station and the lights stay on. the higher the capacitance, the longer they stay on.

You could buy 5V led strip (usually comes in meter or half meter lengths and can be cut to length every 3rd led) available from amazon - various suppliers. I use this with a homebrew stay alive circuit powered from the track but as they are only 5v, you could run them off button cell batteries. l always choose warm white.

Has anyone on here modeled these and/or mechanical signalling ramps? They are (with ATO being introduced) an endangered species and may need photographing before they are all gone. A trip to the pic with camera may be in order.

Thanks for that, Paul, I will keep my eyes peeled!

Just seen this on facebook. Does anyone know if Florence Nightingale is going to be used on District line 150 event later this month and if so, what other carriages will it be running with?

It might seem like a daft point but worth checking out. Most rolls of LED strips run off a 12v supply. However when designing my own coach lighting, I got hold of some warm white LED strips (1.5m long) that ran off 5v. Rather than B&Q you may be better off looking online at well known shopping site or the auction site. Most of the 12v sets come with remote control so you can dim them as well.

If the C69 and A 60 Stock are in unpainted aluminium rather than corporate livery, they could (at a fictitious stretch) be being delivered 'as new'.... Looking forward to this one.

This is odd. When I type in web address, it doesn't work. When I click on the link in Kingzance' post, (3rd post on this thread), it does! Windows 10 google chrome.

Thank you Jeff. Yes Plastic/resin, where was that thread, I don't seem to be able to find it?

Never understood the size of these dmu's buffers... anyone know why?

How to cut off moulded hand rails. In the past I have always done this as a complete rebuild. Now I have to be really careful, (not damaging 'next to' paintwork), Is it a scalpel ? I ask because there should be a quicker way...

Radley models just this week released 1935 stock, they also do kits of 1938 stock

If anyone is interested I found the answer. The original Streamline 1935 stock because of its shape had the lamp iron in the centre. The flat ended 1938 stock originally had the lamp brackets on the 'M' door in the centre. They were soon moved to under the drivers window. At some point, the 'D' end of the 'Starlight Express' set had it put back to its original position, as it is now on the heritage set.

Starlight express: car numbers 20291-012371-10291+10012-012256-12027-11012 with light grey roof left stonebridge park depot (Bakerloo) 5th December 1985 to Ruislip depot for storage. That unit and four other 38 units were then given a further heavy over haul and were transfered to Northern line in September 1986. Even the farewell railtour had grey roof. final withdrawl 1988.

Roof colour grey (usually filthy). On the Bakerloo, they were done in the colour of the heritage set at Acton.

Extra heavy overhaul units were painted 'bus red', although personally I think it was a bit darker. The white roundels may be available from radley models, they are not listed but give them a ring they can probably sort you out. If not you can sometimes find them on the popular auction site.

I can't believe I missed this... can anyone confirm? A end has lamp bracket under drivers window, D end has it on the door! Why the difference?

You could put in a flicker free unit.

I had the same problem with a Lima class 55 chassis. First fix was plasweld with a strip of plasticard. It worked but eventually gave out. I then re fixed it using a scrap of code 55 nickel silver rail melted in with soldering iron.. That was 7 years ago and it's still going strong.

I'm sure that there is someone on here that can tell you, but if there is room, I have found that just adding 1 or more neodium magnets to the original magnet works well. Good luck.

You are probably right. Bridge rectifiers are cheap as chips. Probably best to get one rated at 1 amp. Available from ebay amazon rs etc. Good luck.

Cocktail stick ?