d00m

'If it has plastic wheels I suspect the OP has the original Tri-ang Railways style 'shorty' Met-Cam unit? With the half-sleeve wheels and open axleboxes? I've seen chipped wheels on these in the (distant) past' If it is the type described above, you could remove the existing wheels, pop in top hat brass Barings, then fit standard metal wheelsets. I did this years ago and it improved running no end. Other option, (bit more work), replace bogies.

In the Lima manual it says that the gears are 'self lubricating' so yes, just the bearings. Oiling the teeth causes them to pick up dirt and fluff.

I have messaged you....

Wow. they scrub up well!

That is impressive. Useful for another application ? I think you may have simplified an automatic signalling/gentle stop problem that I have been wrestling with for a few years.

Nice. Love those corridor connectors!

Has anyone put in prototypical expansion joints? They tend to have bonding wires across them, so it wouldn't be too difficult to add a dropper wire...

Martin is correct. You don't need to change browser though, just adjust the settings in your browser for the specific web site.

Apologies to AY for CAPITAL LETTERS. For me all they are is an indication (not shouting) of me going GRRRR...! Would it be possible for the adverts to be a complete 'strap' across the whole screen as you get on television news? That would be less intrusive to users and should still generate an income. Perhaps something like that could be tested? Either that or make the add pane on the right static, and advertise there. Just a thought.

Please do.

I see the need to get some income but I have never seen a business decision that alienates users making sense in the long term.

Please get rid of the adds at the bottom of the page. I could probably put up with them but not when they are constantly scrolling and changing when I am reading someones posts. It is distracting while I am typing this. Also most of the adds seem to be 'targeted' but I always remove the option on web browsers etc to make it non specific so what the....! VERY ANNOYED

with washers...

This must be why a lot of DIY instructions for using a PC PSU as a power supply suggest a high wattage resistor with a heat sink connected across the +5v and 0v rails.

T-Evolution Core Less power Truck.... Found out the other day that these, if ordered direct from Japan cost between £18 & £28 each. Only problem is they were on pre-order In May for delivery in October.... they have sold out. That is probably why they are so expensive, even if you can find them. On a similar note (I got this from another web site), It looks as if Bachmann wont be making available the 1938 stock motorised chassis as spares for at least a year - warranty replacement only...

Sorry, I got them on Amazon. This looks the closest on E bay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-DC-Motor-PWM-Speed-Controller-3V-6V-12V-24V-35VDC-90W-5a-DC-Motor-Spee-F9K0/114296976801?hash=item1a9ca175a1:g:xjgAAOSwqn1fCF87y

Did you have to add extra weight to the loco or was the chassis free running enough with the motor removed ?

If you find a good runner that doesn't break the bank, let me know. Like David, my Airfix 14xx pickups failed. With new pickups (phosphor bronze on paxolin) it worked for a bit, but not great. In the bits box now.

I can agree with this. I bought 5 pwm controllers from China - £1.97 each ! Really impressed, worked well... Next order I didn't check they went down to zero. 4.5v was minimum. DOH ! Waiting for another delivery. As above, two wires in two wires out dpdt centre off added for direction.

I know we will have to wait and see, but re-reading the press release, it states that they are all wheel pickups on the driving motors. It doesn't mention the ndm or trailer so I presume they will have electrical coupling for the lighting.

2 foot 6 - 2 foot 7 inches approx. 1:76 models tend to use 10 mm diameter wheels

Totally agree. Bus red seems to go a shade of orange. Tube red has more of a maroon hue.

As they have 'London Transport' and not the White roundel/bullseye they should be in tube red. Still not sure if the efe models are the correct colour but I plan eventually to get around to weathering mine - that'll cover a multitude!

After 60 pints my track might wander....

All (12x7 car sets) of my 1938 stock cars have diecast chassis but the bodies are plastic. It does take a bit of time to fit tenshodo motors, but the motorised cars need weighting. The sets won't run well unless you change all the other bogies and wheels to pinpoint. Plastic bodies are easy to drill for headcodes. Chassis a bit more difficult to drill for tail lights. The pics of the new models seem to have a painted centre 'light' in the headcode but the other four look clear to me. It is easy to print off different destination blinds and ts numbers. You can get decals to renumber individual cars. I'm ordering a set to compare!