mallaig1983

Activity on the layout has been somewhat laboured recently. Having completed the station building some time ago I thought the natural progression would be to do the 4 blocks of flats known as the ‘Railway Buildings’. But I’m struggling with the first one somewhat. It just doesn’t seem to be coming along as I’d hoped. The bay windows are harder than I hoped they would be. Also the electrics from where the platform starts to the buffer stop (including the loop) has an intermittent fault where it randomly becomes dead. The arrival of the Accurascale 37s and the fish boxes got the motivation back but that came at the same time as the Welsh Highland Railway centenary gala (WHR100) which promised to be something rather special. Last weekend I spent 3 days at the gala and it did not disappoint. I then spent last week watching countless YouTube videos to relive it. 20 years ago I had pushed hard for the Heritage Train project and led a team to see it to fruition so it was absolutely wonderful to ride in carriages that we’d built or I’d overseen a build by contractors. I can claim no credit for the wonderful replica Pickering brake composite though as that is much more recent. So this weekend it was time to get back on the layout. Saturday ended up being busy with other things but Sunday was productive. The loco release point behind the storm wall was proving problematic to the Accurascale 37s with them refusing point blank to stay on the track when entering the loop. This proved to be down to some shoddy ballasting derailing the loco so this was dealt with fairly easily. A point on the crossover wasn’t throwing, this was found to be due to the fulcrum on the DCC concepts motor having slipped. Easy fix to slide back up and a little glue to hold. I soaked the ballast at the north end of the loop and took a section of the track out as it has bothered me that I never fitted a catch point here. When running round this is the point where the loco waits for the second man to reset the points and lock the ground frame and I thought it would look much better to if the catch point was actually in place rather than imagining it. I am awaiting some code 75 rail joiners to progress this as I want it in place properly before drilling a hole for the point motor etc. I also fitted the ploughs and plates to 37027 which adds further to this lovely model. I also spent time trimming the flash off the new fish boxes. Next up will be a re-wire of the power bus. I have a good amount of household lighting circuit cable that I intend to strip the two wires out and then solder the droppers to. This will replace the rats nest of smaller cables all joined using choc block screw connectors. I was never really happy with it but it worked so I left it alone. So I’m now back in the swing of things and have decided to next build the signal box and signalman’s bungalow. Hopefully the scratch building confidence will return and I will get back to tackling the Railway Building again (or maybe seek someone to do a commission). So there we are for now, hopefully more regular updates from now on in.

Thanks for posting pics from the article David. My copy is long since lost although I do have the second part in the 1981 yearbook that I acquired a few years ago. It must be 35 years or so since I’ve seen those photos. Thanks.

Oh My Goodness!! What a wonderful loco to have in your collection. I never saw Ian’s Lochside layout but his articles in Railway Modeller about the layout, the locos, the renumbering and the weathering back in 1981 was the moment I came of age. The track on the train set was taken up, the 8x4 chipboard baseboard was cut in half and I started my first model railway. My green class 25 was repainted blue and an Eastfield number applied. It was painted black and rubbed off again as Ian taught us. This really started my modelling interest and more importantly modelling the West Highland. That loco will be so iconic to many and how fitting that it’s with you now and getting a second lease of life as Kylestrome has been an inspiration since I’ve started my Mallaig layout. Hopefully we’ll get to see a piccy or two of her on your layout. Fantastic 👍

I had that too. I just shaped it back up where it was supposed to sit.

Perhaps an email to Accurascale support then. I’m sure they’ll point you in the right direction.

It’s switch on the prodigy advance. That’s what I use. Which leads to another question for Bill and apologies again if it’s a daft one but you’re not using the Prodigy Express are you? If it’s a Prodigy advanced does ‘F11’ display on the screen and stay on the screen?

Definitely a problem then Bill. It’s normally a very reactive thing. Hope you get it sorted. I’m sorry I can’t help anymore but cv changing or checking is not something I’ve got into yet.

Sorry if this is a silly question Bill but have you run it round a curve with F11 actioned? It won’t work on the straight, rolling road etc.

We haven’t got tge wheel slip on 027 Bill so you won’t find that. It’s an either/or depending on which model you have. Flange squeal should be on F11 if all is as it should be.

All bar 3 of my fleet of mk1s are still boxed while awaiting a fiddle yard to sit in. I will work through mine once they are required. The steps will definitely be going but I keep changing my mind about the ribs. Life is a fairly short journey though 🤔 Good to hear you’re improving Warren.

Is that Regan in the door of that overcrowded 304? Must have flashed his badge for the other passengers to move up. Or his gun 😀

25008 at Fort William sounds very interesting. What year was that? That’s quite a fleet you’re building there? Nice collection. Do you have a layout thread on here?

25s we’re not uncommon on the West Highland in the 70s but seem somewhat rarer on the Mallaig extension. I have absolutely no evidence that either 083 or 086 were ever around those parts but as 083 was at Eastfield a couple of times during the mid to late 70s it is at least feasible so that’s good enough for me. I’ll see what else comes in future as I still want an earlier version. That’s quite a collection you have on order. If I was modelling the Far North or Kyle lines then I too would have a couple on order. Maybe one day there’ll be spare cash to splash on an example just because they’re beautiful little things. Have you gone for the full fat sound versions?

Well I’ve resisted long enough and finally caved. I’ve wanted a SLW loco since seeing the 24s on Mostyn but couldn’t justify it as it didn’t fit my era and area. None of the later style 25s announced a couple of years ago did either, i decided to be patient. Oo those Scottish 24s were so tempting but they didn’t operate on the West Highland, getting closer though. I’ll patiently wait I’m the hope 25226/7/8 or 9 are produced. But 25083 has now been announced and as it was at Eastfield in 1978 that’s good enough for me 😀 Duly ordered. Happy days.

Thats great, thank you. So they stayed in sequence so any of us modelling TOPS period can use your info provided above and just translate the 4 digit number to 5 digit tops. Thanks for your help.

This is great information but did the locos go through the same sequence of renumbering? As in were they kept in sequence going through the TOPS numbering? 6701 becoming 37001 or 6751 becoming 37051. Appreciate I could check each individual loco on 37 websites but others may also be interested to share your knowledge too. Thanks Andy

Yes I caught that one thanks. I found the white spirit point interesting. Did it remove the numbers well with no damage to the paint? I use Tcut on Bachmann locos but i have used Isopropynol and was going to plumb for either of those depending on experiences of others. I was a bit scared off using isopropynol after watching Charlie Chadwick on youtube attempting to use it on a Heljan 33. I do have Heljan 27s to renumber too buts outside the boundaries of this thread. I remember watching an Accurascale video on YouTube a while back called 'Gone in 60 seconds' about removing numbers on a class 55 but I cant find it for looking now. Great work on your own locos, They look rather special, Very nice. Andy

Hi folks, I’ve had a busy weekend at a 3 day gala so have lost track of this thread ever so slightly so I thought I’d just ask this question here and hopefully your answers can help many others too. I have two 027s on the layout so obviously one is going to get renumbered. I wonder if those who have already done this to your brand new and very special and quite expensive new toys would be kind enough to share what you used to remove the printed numbers? It would be a useful resource to have a few opinions and how you feel about the ease, results etc. At 250 quid these are good value for money but it’s still a fair outlay and I really don’t want to make a mess of it. id be very grateful to you for sharing your hints and tips. Thanks.

Oh I’m sure they will 😀👍

No I was watching John JMC doing it on YouTube last night. They’re lovely models arnt they?

@03060 made a comment back in November questioning whether my modelling patience would stand an attempt to replicate the large quantity of plastic fish boxes that were stored in the compound behind the screen wall. I had been pondering how to do this but when Ian posted that I decided to rise to the challenge and see what could really be done. @young37215 got in touch saying he was wondering the same so during a chat over a cup of tea at Warley we decided to investigate to see if someone could cast or print them. I’d used Anyscale models before for various bits of fishing gear, nets etc and when I contacted Stuart he was very keen to help as he’d planned on making the plastic type boxes and this was his excuse to add them to his range. A very favourable price was agreed and a joint order with Rob at WHL4 was placed for 200 each. Now I was thinking that 200 would leave a few left over but once tipped into position doesn’t look that many. However I have seen photos of this pile of boxes being at various different heights so I may just stick with this amount as it does represent the stash that was stored there, bearing in mind that they probably came and went constantly throughout the fishing. Other ideas is to make a hump of some type underneath then to make it look like there are more or I could just order more. We shall see. In other news 2 x 37027 have arrived from Accurascale to great excitement. What an absolutely stunning model they are too and the sound project and speakers really are something else. Unfortunately one of them is going to have to go back to remedy a fault. The loco will only run very slowly and is a bit juddery. When the sound is on the engine sound will speed up, thrash and slow down but the loco behaves as it’s on a slow speed setting with drive hold on. It isn’t though, that’s been checked. Full marks to Accurascale though they have been great. I just need to get the package to the collection centre. Here are a couple of photos of the other one enjoying a leg stretch in the West Highlands. These models were announced just as I was embarking on my layout build all that time ago so have been eagerly awaited. My 1983 class 37 fleet is now 7 two of which need sound plus one more that needs stripping and repainting plus the class 20 so a nice fleet. I don’t need anymore so now it’s a case of let’s see what is released in future as additional treats.

Not that I have done the conversion but I believe it is. Do Accurascale even supply the axles or am I confusing this with another manufacturer?

Thanks for the helpful information. Does the plough assembly stay with the bufferbeam or turn with the coupling? I have radius 3 curves off scene and I think I read this was ok. I use Kadee #19 on my locos and #20 on my Bachmann mk1s

Thank you 🙏

37027 Loch Eil which I ordered around the same time as starting the layout. Every step forward I’ve been looking forward to this moment. Not had chance all week to have a proper long running session. Kadee couplings fitted and sit at the right height so very impressed with that. But how do you fit the snowploughs? My eyesight is worse than I thought! I want to fit the ones that allow the coupling to be used as my locos run round and return. If anyone has fitted these please can you point me in the right direction? Thanks also to the kind soul who earlier in the week explained how to use my prodigy advanced, I really should read the instructions 🤣