D605Eagle

I though some 33s might be possiable contenders as the southern region were very sluggish with the yellow paint. I do know of some that went straight to GFY from all green, but I've not found any evidence of a jump to blue by searching on google.

Dear santa, can I have a big pile of cash to pay for all these scrumptious models on the horizon!

Just found out that D6333 went straight from all over green livery to Blue with full yellows in one go. Does anybody know of any other locos that made such a jump?

That was part of the problem as theres no provision for reducing the injection quantity whilst the turbos are off boost. They were prone to smoking (not as badly) when under load too.

Just to reawaken this thread, D8243 in it train heating disguise carried what appeares to be LNER green from about 1978 until the early 80s when it was repainted BR green again.

I'm pretty sure it was one of the Huntley 35mm compilations. IIRC it says on the vid that it was a regular 16 turn as it was very lightly loaded and didn't cause much in the way of problems if the loco failed. It is very odd that the engine modifications that were carried out to the class 15's engines wern't done to the 16s. It might have made them more reliable although they used far inferior electrics compared to the 15s. The 15s did become reliable if smokey locos after the mods. According to Richard Carr of the paxman heritage website there was no reason for the smoke, the engines were just set up wrong!

The class 16s are quite different from the 15s. They are slightly longer, a longer wheel base, bigger spoked wheels, and the sole bar is higher up. I dont think there will be much they can reuse off the 15 model. The new engine is an ex class 15 lump. IIRC its ex D8217 when it was new. The only non orriginality parts on the 15 will be the control gear as it was all lost when the loco was a Crewe. Replacements have been sourced from class 31s thanks to a very kind Mr Needle. We do have a set of correct BTH traction motors to replace the missing ones.

How many D6331s have been made Dave?

From people I spoke to and stuff I've read, once they had been through Swindon a time or two they were pretty reliable machines. Several ex drivers I spoke to said they better engines than the 25s that they replaced them with. I feel that the reputation of the class 16s and 21s and build faults kind of sullied the reputation all the NBL products whether they were any good or not. Even the class 21s became reasonably reliable machines in their twilight years, mainly because all the design faults which caused pyrotechnics etc. had been ironed out. Jim

I find it a bit sad that you think we cannot discuss the accuracy of a model or not. We are been charged an every increasing amount for models and in return an effort to make them as accurate as they can should be made. Do you believe that we cannot even talk about whatever is put infront of us no matter how good or bad it is?

Like I said on the Dapol 22 thread, you might not have to wait that long for that.....

wasn't that the garratt thread? LOL Looking forwards to seeing one with improved headcode font to see if it looks better

I think the "wall" of the headcode box is too thick too (meaning that the window part is smaller than it should) is exacerbating its underscaleness. I cannot quite put my finger on what else isn't right, but front just looks wrong. The side views look bang on, so I don't think its either the nose hight or the window slant. Does the curvature of the nose top look right to you guys?

Look at the pictures on this link (when you open the page, press the UK button in the top right corner to get pictures of the noses) http://www.Heljan.dk...d&artikelid=297 The fronts look sooo wrong! Compare them to a picture of the real thing here I dont think it can hold a candle to my SilverFox one. If they become cheap enough in a year or two like the 33s etc I might buy one for its chassis, but otherwise I'm steering clear of this one! Such a dissapointment after the fabulous Lion model

It has raised its ugly head now and then over history. HD had a bad batch just before WW2, Trix had a reoccuring problem in the 60s and 70s, Lima did in the 80s, and we know about recent events. What is suprising that all the Margate made stuff has avoided the problem. Does Bachmann replace the chassis on the early N class locos? I must check mine......

Me too! ebay is been watched

Have they done one already??? I was kind of out of modeling from 2005-2010

Just a quick D5705 prototype update All the heads were removed from the block last weekend. As the Crosleys had iron pistons and the engine hasn't run in 40(!) years you can imagine the state of the inards. The plan is to remove pistons and liners together and replace with new ones from the donor V12 engine. Just hope the crank is repairable in situ. Theres no way on gods earth the engine can be dismantled further. The bolts that hold it together are down deep holes that have been full of water for years and are torqued to something silly like 4000 footpounds! Jim

Email Heljan, they might be able to tell you their class 27 plans. I quite fancy D5380 in two tone green.

Yes yes yes! I'm following you now!

You've got to hand it to Hornby though, they are doing their very best at their expense to fix any broken 31s. All you have to do is contact Hornby through their website and state which models you have that are failing, and they will get you sorted. You cannot say fairer than that.

Chop a £74 bachy one instead that.

I would have thought the diameter of a worn wheel requiring new tyres and a new one would have been about that if not a little more!

Slight off topic again, we're going to make a serious start on stripping D5705s engine ready to take the new internals we have in the middle of next month. The cylinder head bolts are torqued to something silly like 1800 flbs so getting them off might be fun! I'll keep you all updated on how things are going as and when.

Its only D5512 of the green 31s that suffers from the chassis rot, and even if you do buy one and its subsiquently starts to rot, you can get it fixed by Hornby for nothing more than the cost of posting it to them.