philsandy

Ha! yes. I think it's in a roof space? Every time I see it I think, there's that poor bloke still crawling around in the loft.

DC clockwork or DCC clockwork?

Don't order from any suppliers in China. I ordered some 2mm taps, when they finally arrived they were LH thread. Contacted them, they said they would send replacement. They didn't.

Alan Gibson

What glue did you use to fix the ballast? I have read that PVA, because it sets like concrete, increases running noise. I used Copydex 50/50 with water to fix the ballast, with the track laid on 3mm cork, and the cork fixed to the 9mm plywood baseboard with 100% Copydex. Trains runs quietly, well to my ears anyway.

I am also occasionally getting the above from AVG when on RMWeb.

Had a look at Peters Spares re. Hornby TT spares. Limited range and most are reasonably priced but some, I wondered if the prices were typos, £35 for two A1 pony truck wheels and axle!! Surely that can't be right?

You should. I sent mine back the day after it arrived. Ran fine forwards but jerky running and stalling in reverse, and a bent front buffer. The replacement was perfect.

Sent off for some adhesive copper tape, arrived today, it worked a treat, loco stops now with even a light press of the button.

Thanks Chris. Actually I think this is the problem, I have to press harder on the emergency stop button, I probably use this more than any other. There are faint black marks on the circuit board contacts of emergency stop and direction, but not on any of the others.

I have a Powercab which is 10 years old now. When I press the red emergency stop button there isn't always an immediate stop, and I have to press it couple of more times. I opened up the body and found a very light oily residue on the circuit board around the stop contact. I have seen this before on TV remote controls when the channel changing isn't working correctly. I wiped it all off and this fixed the problem, but over time it appears again. Anyone else experienced this, is this residue coming from the circuit board itself or the rubber button membrane?

Wow, Imagine hand building that trackwork for a layout.

XTC's 1984 album The Big Express. One of the most under rated British band ever. Although this album is not one of my favourite.

I like the couplings on the Hornby TT120 range, wagons couple up very smoothly. Re. uncoupling, I am assuming the Hornby uncoupling ramp has to be manually lifted (or with point motor) up when the required wagons are over it for them to be actually uncoupled , and is not the same method of operation as the 00 version using TLC, ie. do the wagons stay coupled when they pass over it, and only uncouple when you stop, is this correct? On my EM layout I use Bachmann DMU couplings with Brian Kirbys magnetic system, and was hoping to use something similar on TT120, but keeping the original couplings. Anyone any ideas how to achieve this, avoiding the "hand of God".

The late Iain Rice advised not to use any oil or grease based substance on pinpoint axles, but to rub a soft graphite pencil on the pinpoints. I always use this method and it works, brilliantly.

My Mobil tank wagon arrived on Saturday and I thought the same. They are actually 10T and not 12T as stated in the catalogue. I'm sure they are correct, it's a TT model of a small tank wagon. I have three 14T tanks in 00 and these are much larger behind a 00 loco. The NE brake van arrived this morning, this is noticeably bigger than the Mobil tank.

Digital vernier, and a 12mm Intermediate B2B gauge.

Anyone experienced the back to back dimension being out on any Hornby TT locos or rolling stock? I have been building 12mm gauge points to NEM 110 standards, using code 60 rail, plywood sleepers and plastic chairs. When I started all I had to check the pointwork was a two axled wagon (not Hornby ), which ran through very smoothly. When My Hornby A3 Night Hawk arrived I decided to test it by just running the tender through the pointwork as they are not wired up yet. It would not go through them at all, the B2B were out. They should be between 10.2 mm - 10.4 mm, and they were around 10 mm, one axle was 9.8 mm. After adjusting the B2B's the tender ran through very smoothly. On checking the actual loco these were also under, again around 10 mm. Have not adjusted these yet.

Thanks Spamcan, I suspected so. I do have one (bought for a Hornby 00 Black 5) but struggled get it to fit and assumed that a different extraction tool would be needed with it being a smaller scale. Trying it again it I did fit, the 00 and TT plugs are the same size.

Has anyone managed to do this, and if so how? Please don't tell me you need a special tool.

Hope it's back soon, I found it a very useful and informative.

I only have a phone camera and the photos would not do the model justice.

When I looked at it initially that was my first thought, but no it isn't.

Actually arrived yesterday. Very impressed with it (Class A3 "Night Hawk"), the detail is excellent for a small model, to my eyes as good as on a 00 model. Runs smoothly (on DC, will be converting it to DCC). Slight gripe, one of the tender axles (nearest the loco) is only rotating intermittently. Removed the keeper plate to have a look, thought it might be too much tension on the pick ups, eased them off slightly but has not cured it.

Gets better, email from DPD, it's being delivered Monday.