philsandy

Anyone tried this, will it operate the same? They are less obtrusive than the standard TLC.

I would think every model shop in the UK stocks Peco track. I don't know if any stock C&L or SMP (Marcway, obvs.) if you want it you have to get it by mail order. So most modellers buy what is forced on them. If modellers had the choice when they were in a model shop of Peco track or C&L/SMP, it's a no brainer.

Did you use Araldite Rapid or the standard Araldite?

Considering a modification to Bachmann TLC that requires gluing 0.6 mm dia. brass or NS (ie. non magnetic metal) to the back end of the "loop" on the TLC (where the hook pivots). I don't know what type of plastic these are. Can any one recommend a suitable adhesive, is there one?

I don't think chimneys are available as a spare from Bachmann, they seem to be part of the whole body moulding.

I suspected that this might also be a problem. I don't want to use electromagnets, but I'm sure they would improve the operation. I really wanted these to work because they look so much better than TLC, but they seem very temperamental. The Brian Kirby method on TLC is very consistent in operation and I wondered if the Lincs could be modified to work the same way. By using 0.5mm dia. brass wire for the armature, and soldering/supergluing a steel staple dropper to it to actuate uncoupling. Because this system uses 2 magnets at each uncoupling point, the staples on each armature would be positioned further apart than the 2 hooks are, so you would not have both armatures dropping down together when the wagons are being pulled over the magnets, only one at a time. So no unwanted uncoupling, and no residual magnetisation of the hooks. Would this work, anyone have any thoughts on this?

I have recently bought some of these and fitted them to 5 wagons. I can not get them to operate consistently. They uncouple well enough, but the main problem is some of them are uncoupling when they shouldn't, ie. when being pulled and under tension, as they pass over the permanent magnets, (under the ballast). I have followed the instructions and re checked the critical settings ie. all hooks are 1/4" long and at 45 degrees to the buffer beam, the protruding armature/hooks are all set 2mm beyond the buffer faces (recommendation, min. 1.5 mm), and are offset by 2mm from the centre of the wagon, and parallel to the track and the wagon centre line. I've obviously missed something, can anyone suggest anything? Thanks in advance.

Yes, Peco 00 track is actually HO track. But even at 3.5mm/1ft the sleepers are still too close together. The new Peco Bullhead track is a vast improvement.

Jeff, I know this post is going back a bit, but do you have a photo/drawing of this jig. I have made one myself but it's not really doing the job, and I've got about 50 wagons to fit. Phil.

The Linc instructions does recommend S&W magnets, but these are 3.8mm thick, which would mean cutting into the baseboard. Since my OP I have solved the problem. The Brian Kirby system requires 2 magnets to operate, one for each wagon coupling. The Lincs only requires 1, as the armature arms are much closer together. So I removed 2 of the disc magnets from under the track and put one on top of the other, increasing the Pull from 0.28kg. to 0.56kg. It now works perfectly.

I'm trying out the Lincs Autocoupler. Currently using Bachmann TLC with Brian Kirby system, which works well but I want something less obtrusive. I have fitted one Lincs to a wagon and am very impressed with the appearance ( ie. you can hardly see it), and the operation. The problem is the magnets under the track are not quite strong enough to activate the Lincs Autocoupler, as the armature arm is at a higher position than the "stapler" on the Brian Kirby coupler. The magnets are 15mm disc, 0.5 mm thick and have a 0.28kg. pull. If I dip the wagon nearer to the magnet (ie. lift the back end up) by 3mm, the magnet activates the Lincs. Don't want a too strong a magnet, and none thicker than 2mm, as I don't want to start hacking in to the baseboard. Sourced some 15mm disc, 1mm thick with 1.1 kg. pull, would this be enough? can anyone advise what pull would be, without being excessive.

I have just bought some Lincs AutoCouplers to try out. Currently using Bachmann TLC with the Brian Kirby system, which works well but I wanted something less obtrusive. What was the actual problem re. the Lincs becoming magnetised and not uncoupling? In the instructions for the Lincs it recommends that the track magnets should all have the same pole facing upwards, could this have been a factor?

Contemplating trying Lincs Auto Couplers, the instructions recommend using Carrs Brown flux for soldering the steel wire to brass tube. I can only find one source at £10 plus £11 shipping. No one on ebay has it. Don't object to paying £10 for the flux, but not £11 shipping on a £10 item. Does anyone know of suppliers with sensible shipping charges.

For most houses an exterior "standard door" is usually 6' 6" x 2' 9" (45.5mm x 19.25mm in 7mm).

I'm new to this thread, I'm now considering ordering one of these. So it probably has been answered on here amongst the 42 pages (whew), but what is the situation re. ordering the EM drop in wheel sets, and the cost? Could the 00 wheels not be regauged by pulling them off the axles, or would the wheel flanges be too thick? I did this with a Heljan Class 23 and it runs perfectly through the pointwork.

I don't know what font it is. I found some images of the headcodes on line somewhere and used those. Had to fiddle about with them using MS Paint program to get them right size etc. If you can download images below you might find them useful. Obviously the B and 8 need to be closer together on the first one.

DCC Supplies stock them.

Thanks Nigel. Altered CV 477 from 64 to 0 and that did it.

I'm in the process of programming all my locos to have same sound effect at the same F key, hence all the recent questions regarding moving sounds. I have 3 or 4 locos (all ESU V4 decoders) where the F8 key mutes the volume, and I want this key for Coupling effect. The three CV's for the F8 key 478, 479 & 480 all read 0. How do I disable the mute function from F8?

Just tried it, but there is no change in the clack rate, so as you say probably not set up for it. Thanks for your response.

Managed to find some info on one of the locos only, the clack is in slot 15 and volume is CV371.

They are ESU V4 decoders. How is it done, and what are the limits?

Have a few locos with this sound effect, sounds good, but the "clacks" are regular, they do not increase with the speed of the loco. Is it possible (easy?) to synchronise this effect, like steam chuffs?

Paul, thanks for your very detailed reply. I managed to move the sounds I wanted using method 1. You are right, there were not 2 sounds operated from the one key, (F8), I was hearing the Safety valve, which was on F8, but this is a random sound, and it just happened to come in while the "moved" sound, Buffer Up was playing. Thanks again.