philsandy

When we reach page 120 the thread will have to be closed.

Glad it's not 1" to 1' as I would have to have got a bigger TableTop.

Looking very good going off your photos,. Did they have any of the locos running, if so how did they perform?

Re. Hornby TT120 Pre ordering. Sorry if this is an obvious question, but pre ordering is something I've never done, how does it work. Do you pay for the items when you pre order, or pay when they are actually available and are about to be posted out to you?

Re. TT120 wheel standards. Don't know if this info has already been posted on here, I emailed Hornby technical dept. about this and got this reply (in less than 48 hrs): TT is built to European NEM standard 310. Please use the link below for the table you are looking for, showing all measurements. The gauge of TT track is 12mm, so along that line will be the numbers you need. https://www.morop.org/images/NEM_register/NEM_E/nem310_en_2009_20111116.pdf Hope this helps, Kind Regards, Matt Jordan Customer Technical Advisor

I know it has been mentioned on here but can't find it now (78 pages!) but what type of couplings are Hornby using on TT120 range? What other manufacturers use the same couplings, and how do they fit to the locos/rolling stock (NEM pocket?), ie. can they we swapped for something less obtrusive?

The 3mm Society do 2.5mm x 1mm thick copper clad strips.

I have been looking into this, ie. making my own trackwork. It appears C&L do not supply chairs for Code 55. The 3mm Society supply chairs for Code 60 bullhead and 2.5mm wide plywood sleepers. Also 12mm track bases for Code 60 bullhead.

EM modeller but tempted to build a small shunting plank in TT120 out of curiosity. I don't like the track that is on offer from Hornby/Peco (sleepers too close together) so want to build my own track. Is there anyone who supplies chairs for code 55 rail? can not seem to find any.

I have misunderstood this. I incorrectly assumed that this Hornby launch of TT was 3mm/ft.

Have only just seen this news from Hornby... Wow! but I also could not find any info on the gauge.

Am I right in thinking these couplings do not have a dove tail? A rigid bar coupling will give you a closer (more realistic) gap between the two. Alternatively try gently bending the power car coupling up (1mm? going off your photo), and bending the dummy car coupling down (1mm) to bring them to the same height. There should be enough give there for them to move this amount without breaking.

Well, it can't get any worse.

Good point. I have one of these and it is a superb runner, it never stalls, why? because it has 2 sprung axles, which ensure constant wheel/rail contact.

Have a look at my post here:

Great looking trackwork.

The four wires to motor +ve , motor -ve , track RH and track LH, are not soldered directly to any of the 8 pin terminals, they soldered to different terminals on the board. I have got it working now it, it was the terminal I had arrowed, as pointed out above by daltonparva. Thanks.

Thanks for that. It shows up better on the photo than it does just looking at it. Got it working now.

Thanks, but that is relating to the plug, not the socket.

Some years ago I removed the 8 pin socket from a loco and hard wired the decoder. I now need to re fit the socket, but am unsure which terminal to solder the black wire for the RH side pick up. Can anyone confirm if where I have indicated (black arrow) is correct?

Dave, I have one, PM with your address an I'll post it on.

I have just converted all my rolling stock from Bachmann TLC , with Brian Kirby's method for auto magnetic uncoupling, to Bachmann DMU couplings, (part no. 36-055), still using Brian Kirby's method. They are less obtrusive and work very well.

Thanks Jeff, but I gave up on the Lincs couplings, I could not get them to work consistently with permanent magnets. Wagons were uncoupling to often when being pulled them over the magnets. I'm sure they work very well using electro magnets. I am now fitting Bachmann DMU couplings using Brian Kirby's method, less obtrusive than the standard TLC and work consistently.

I have converted steam locos to EM using the original wheels, but using longer EMGS shouldered axles, 3mm x 2mm. (5905 R5D2). I reduced the wheel flanges by 0.2mm/0.3mm to give a flange width of 0.5mm, (but check first, Bachmann flanges do vary in width). I found this an easier way of converting, especially for locos with valve gear, although with some locos there can be a problem with there not being enough clearance between the front wheel crank pin screws and the valve gear. METHOD I USED: I reduced the wheel flange by placing a good flat file on a work bench, placing the wheel, flange side down on the file and sliding it back and forth. Regularly checking the flange thickness with a digital vernier. It's easier rather than to keep trying to measure the flange width to first take a measurement of the overall wheel width and keep checking that, till you have reduced it by 0.2mm/0.3mm. eg, overall wheel width is 2.9mm, so reduce it to 2.6 or 2.7mm. I rolled a small flat file around the 2mm dia. axle stubs to put a knurl on to give a tighter fit in the plastic wheel bush. Used Araldite to glue the plastic bushes in to the wheel hubs. The problem then was because these bushes have a shoulder (about 0.5mm thick) and the 3mm dia. part of the axle is 16mm long, this would give a B2B of about 17mm. I filed the bush shoulder thickness down to 0.25mm, This is done with the bush being in situ in the wheel bore, and using the method described above, re. reducing flange thickness. So if the wheel width measured at the axle bore is say 2.7 mm, when the bush in place it should then measure 2.95 mm, and if the 3mm diameter part of the axle is 16mm long, when both wheels are pressed home up to the shoulders, this will give you a B2B of 16.5mm. Hope this makes sense.

Pedant Alert! The quote is from "2010", not "2001: A Space Odyssey".