cravensdmufan

Yes. On my Coastal DCC Class 47 you have to wait around a minute before the loco can be moved on speed step 1. You can hear when the sound has eventually settled and idling consistently. As most sound projects have been written differently, trial and error is what's needed I guess.

Yes, there is usually a air brake release sound before movement with the first speed step - some projects slightly longer than others. But at speed step 1 or 2 the non sound loco won't be giving the other too much of a push or pull. Assuming 128 speed steps of course, which I think most people use.

That is a very good point. But in my experience the long start up sequence is when you press F1 to activate the sound. Once F1 has been triggered and the sound has "settled" (up to about a minute on a couple of projects I have) the sound and no sound fitted locos will move off more or less at the same time on speed step 1 or 2. There may be a slight delay on the sound one, but at speed step 1/128 then the other will just push or pull momentarily, but hardly noticeable.

Hi Danny, When speed matching it's much better to program "on the main" as you can see the locos moving as you're doing it. Locos won't move on a program / service track due to the very low voltage created when you select Program Track on your Powercab. So if you change a speed CV on your Program track you'd have to keep putting the loco back on the main layout to see the effect of the change. I keep banging on about a circle of track because IMO it makes it so easy as it's compact. But if you have a roundy roundy layout you could use that. So, I'll give an example: You have a Bachmann Class 37. We'll call it Loco A. You adjust CV5 so that it runs at a scale maximum 90mph. You then set CV3 to so that it accelerates how you want it. Then you set CV4 so that it decelerates how you want it. (Also CV6 for mid speed if your decoder allows it). Now Loco A is your "standard" Class 37 to which all your other 37s (and any other locos that you want to run in multiple with it) will be matched to. Put that 37 (Loco A) on your track circle. Get your second 37 (Loco B) and put it on the track circle opposite Loco A. Select Loco A and whack it straight up to max speed steps and lightly steady it still with your hand while you select Loco B then whack that up to maximum speed steps and release Loco A from your hand. So now you have both locos going round the circle, loco B will probably be catching up with loco A quite rapidly. On the Powercab press PROG/ESC Select Program On Main [ENTER] and make sure Loco Bs address is on the screen (it should already be there as that's the loco you last entered). It says PROG LOCO: Press [ENTER] then 2 then PROG CV NUM: 5. Press [ENTER]. Then you get ENTER VALUE: Use the thumbwheel to reduce or increase the value of CV5 until you see the loco is going round the circle at exactly the same speed as Loco A. Press [ENTER] then PROG/ESC to take you back to the start. Voila! That's both locos matched with the same maximum speed. Then you need to adjust CV's 3 and 4 on loco B to match the acceleration and deceleration performance of Loco A. I hope all that makes sense. It works because I just did it with a couple of locos while I was typing! A couple of things to bear in mind: 1. Make sure that the locos that you are speed matching are properly run in and lubricated and in perfect smooth running condition. 2. With sound fitted locos, different suppliers' projects respond differently to throttle settings. So unless you use the same providers sound for your (for example) pair of 37s then they will usually sound bad running together. Paul Chetter told me a good tip - that's to mute one of the locos. 3. Even though you have the same type of loco from the same manufacturer, released about the same time and with identical decoders you may need different CV settings to get them running the same. From experience I can tell you I have a Bachmann 37 406 and a 37 428. Purchased brand new from the same shop on the same day. Both newly released by Bachmann at the same time, and new fresh stock in the retailer at the time. I fitted identical decoders in each. For a reasonable maximum speed one needed CV5 =152, the other CV5 = 206 to get them to run nicely together! How bizarre was that? So you really do need to take your time and experiment! But as I said before, once it's done, it's done! In answer to your final question - as long as you're careful and type in the loco addresses that you are speed matching, then no other loco's decoders will be affected. So yes, you can leave your wires to the circle attached to the main layout.

Hi Danny, It sounds as if you want all your fleet of locos to be interchangeable and all to be able to double head with one another. In which case you may as well speed match the whole lot and they will all respond to the controller the same. That way you will be able consist anything with anything (even triple head, or bank at the rear of the train - yet another benefit of DCC!). When Accurascale release their 37 it probably won't respond the same as your existing Bachmann 37. It will most probably have a different type of motor, the gearing will be different and possibly require a different type of decoder. So you will need to speed match it if you want to work it in multiple with your existing fleet. Regarding the track. Yes, of course you could use the layout; I certainly wouldn't put track direct on the carpet. Why not use a sheet of board, cardboard or even newspapers for the circle? I use double 2nd radius curves as it's compact and easy to assemble and take apart as required.

Hi Danny, Yes, that's correct. If you want to remove a speed matched loco from a consist, for example a pair of 37s that you've already matched, and run each one separately you just delete the consist (NCE call it "Kill" the consist). Once you've killed the consist you can recall the individual locos and run them separately. I normally do all my speed matching on the circle of track completely separate from the layout. I wouldn't advise having the circle wired up with your layout. Once my locos have been speed matched then I set up / delete consists with the locos on the layout. In other words I use the circle of track purely for speed matching. Once locos or units are speed matched they don't need to be done again unless you want to speed match one to another loco or unit that has a motor with different characteristics. Regarding your comment "undertake speedmatching with all of my other locos on the layout" . Is it your intention then to match every loco / unit with one another? I suppose that could be done, but I don't bother. I just speed match locos that I sometimes use to double head - which actually isn't that many. Just 20s and 37s mostly. And of course DMUs. As an example I like to have my Class 08 decoders programmed at a scale maximum speed so obviously wouldn't speed match with an HST! May I suggest you just start off with two locos or units on a circle of track? You'll soon get the hang of speed matching. Then move them back on to your layout and practice setting them up in consist, running them as a pair then kill the consist and run separately again. It's worth spending time learning - have fun! Let us know how you get on. Cheers. Vivian

Hi Danny, In answer to your two questions: If you want to speed match a third loco (loco C) to the locos A and B that have been previously matched together, you just put either loco A or B (not both) onto your circle of track along with the new loco C and then adjust the CVs of loco C to match the other one on the track. If you want to run a previously speed matched loco on it's own, then just clear the consist, enter the single loco's address and off you go. CV values are always retained in a decoder's memory until such time as you ever need to adjust those CVs again - or if you do a decoder re-set (CV8 to 8 which reverts the decoder values back to factory defaults). I will need to leave other members to respond to your questions about the speed tables and the computer interface side of things. I will follow those replies with interest as I need to learn more about them myself! Cheers. Vivian PS Just to clarify - (you probably already know this) before doing any speed matching you have to have different address numbers for each loco. Should you, at a later date, wish to remove a decoder that has been previously speed matched and install it into a different loco you will need to give it that different loco's new address and then adjust the CVs to speed match if required. That's because the motor characteristics of the new loco will probably be different to the one you took it out of.

My photo from the early 90s. Who'll be the first to replicate this set up in 4mm? Photo when the time comes please! Edit: I don't know why my photo has come out on here with horizontal shady lines across the middle - the image appears perfect on the file on my laptop. I tried removing it and loading it again but the lines still appear on here.

Nigel - I actually do have an NCE Powercab USB interface and also have JMRI. But I still can't get my head round using JMRI! to it's full advantage! I've managed to get all my locos into the roster, and can use the wi-throttle and that's as far as I've got. One day when I'm feeling bored (and brave)! I may delve further into JMRI so no doubt I'll be asking questions on that!

Hi Andrew - yes I did first try and use speed tables - and indeed nearly led to madness! That's why I use the circle of Hornby settrack! I disconnect the Powercab from my main layout and use the circle as the main line so I can then safely "Program on Main" Not only is it easy to see what's happening, you can be sure that you are not inadvertently re-programming decoders in the other locos that happened to be on the layout that I'd forgotten to remove!

Hi Danny, In answer to your questions, in the order which you have asked: Yes, CVs 3 - 6 are the main ones you should be changing. CV3=Acceleration, CV4=Deceleration, CV5=Maximum Speed, CV6=Mid Speed. Those, I think, are industry standards. But be aware that not all manufacturers let you change some of those CVs. For example, on Hornby TTS decoders you can't adjust CV5 or 6 and ESU Loksound v5 you can't change CV6 (which is a curious one as it's a high end sound decoder). Very occasionally even though you have speed matched locos, when you couple them up they might "fight" with one another slightly at a certain speed step or two. In other words they might judder a bit. You can cure that by adjusting the BEMF (which is like a feedback) which is usually CV10 I think. Even Hornby TTS allows you to change that one. If you mess up the decoder you are trying to speed match to an existing loco (say loco A), then just do a reset on the second decoder (loco B) and start speed matching again. Leave loco A alone. Yes, once you have speed matched your locos you can couple them up and run them in consist. Though I have two Class 20s that I have got semi permanently coupled. For those I find it easier not to have them set up as a consist but have them both on the same address, albeit one configured to run in reverse as the locos are coupled nose to nose. When you clear a consist the decoders will retain your adjusted CVs so you won't need to speed match again. Both my Hornby 153 and Bachmann 150 were always excellent runners - speed matching has not affected their smooth operation - it's just they both react exactly the same to the controller now! It's quite satisfying to put them opposite each other on the circle of track and see them set off, go round a few times and come to a standstill still opposite one another. Makes the effort worthwhile! Let us know how you get on - good luck, and enjoy! Vivian

Following on from Huw's comments, here's what I have done with my old 142: History - around 25 years ago I purchased one of the original models second-hand. It was one of the early releases where each car was independently powered from it's own pick ups from three wheels per car. But it was absolutely useless in getting over my (then) Insulfrog points. Each car would always stall and rely on the other to push (or pull) it over, and that only worked if it was going at a reasonable speed. Slow running was out of the question! So I decided to wire the cars together. The only plug/socket available in those days was quite a chunky one primarily for model cars I think. But it proved ideal as it also acted as the coupler. I removed the original Hornby (non-wired) couplings. Another added advantage was that it brought the cars closer together. Quick dab of dark grey paint and it was hardly noticeable. Good result, and no more stalling. Fast forward 25 years - My layout is now DCC and the poor old 142 was languishing in a drawer for a few years. So I decided to have a go at converting it to DCC! Easy job, as it turned out. Just one cheap Hattons decoder required, an 8 pin one with the plug chopped off ready for hard wiring, using just the red/black and orange/grey wires. I disconnected the track pick up wires from each motor and attached them to the red/black wires into the decoder which I hid in the toilet compartment in one car. Then I ran orange/grey wires from the decoder to each motor. This required another plug/socket to connect the other car but these days ultra small ones with very fine wires are available. I get mine from Squires Tools. The DMU now works better than ever on DCC. It can actuallymove at a scale walking pace - and of course still no stalling! Just a very slight wobble/bouncing off it's original chunky wheelsets - but that looks prototypical! It growls a bit - so I don't need to sound fit it! So here's a few photos and a video of my old 142. With weathering, IMO it still looks good and runs well on the layout alongside the modern stuff. Cheers. Vivian

Hi Danny, I have done a bit of speed matching with my NCE Powercab using different manufacturers' locos and different decoders. I have a real mixture of everything! First and foremost advice I can give you is to get yourself a circle of set track, say 2nd radius, as it's so much easier to speed match on that rather than on the layout or on a section of straight track. That way you can quickly and easily see when one is catching up or falling behind the other. I set mine up on a hard floor (Not carpeted!) Then it's just a question of adjusting the speed CVs. Take one loco or unit to be your standard one and get it running around the circle. Then put on the other one and start adjusting CVs. I start with maximum speed (CV5) then go on to acceleration (CV3), deacceleration (CV4), mid speed (CV6) and so on. Be aware some "value" decoders such as TTS don't have so many adjustable speed CVs. The advantage of using a separate circle of track is that you can use "Program On Main" and see the effects as you are adjusting. Trial and error (and patience) I'm afraid, Of course easy to do a decoder reset f8 to 8 if you totally mess up and need to start again! EDIT: I started with an easy one. A Bachmann Class 150 DMU which I wanted to speed match with a Hornby 153. I wanted to run them in multiple. The 150 had a Loksound v4 and the 153 had a Hattons non sound decoder. When I put them on my circle of track the max speed of the 150 was a lot slower than the 153, So I reduced CV5 on the 153 until they were both going round the circle at the same speed. Then continuing to use the 150 as the prime one to match to I adjusted CV's 3,4 and 6 on the 153 until both DMUs performed the same. It makes no difference whether the decoder is a sound one or not. It's how each individual motor responds to the particular decoder that's fitted to it.

Benjy has always been an avid train spotter - sneaking in through the depot door when the supervisor isn't looking!

Benjy (14 years old) checking if my new lift out section is structurally sound.

Layout4U (very good supplier, no connection, etc.) https://www.layouts4u.net/other-products/baseboard-fittings/baseboard-bracket-with-adjustable-foot

That loco looks fantastic Darius - love the pantograph, which I assume is the Sommerfelt one? Despite being HO it looks just right to me, and of course it can be used to pick up from the catenary wire if desired. That pantograph has been available for many years, which begs the question why our UK 00 models have never been fitted with anything as good. Maybe price? Anyway, let's hope that Heljan come up with one that's of equal quality.

I have recently used track fixing screws for the first time on a new lift out section. I wanted a really good strong method of securing the sleepers to the plywood base (I used approx. half a metre of Setrack leading up to the join and on the lift out section itself for maximum rigidity) without using glue. I used these from Layout4U https://www.layouts4u.net/other-products/track-related-items/1-4mm-x-12mm-self-tapping-tracking-laying-screws and they are excellent. They do a couple of smaller versions as well.

I have one of the early ones, v1.3 - as Pete says it appears briefly on the first screen after it powers on. The default is 2 recalls, Easy to change to 6 though: Press PROG/ESC 6 times until it says SET CAB PARAMS Press Enter The next option allows you to Show Track Current (I like to show that so I press Y) if you don't want that then just press enter The next screen says Number of recalls Press 6 then enter Then PROG/ESC to take you back to the start

Thanks for your comments. Yes, I've noticed one or two have a slight wobble, and you're right, on closer inspection they don't appear to sit "straight" on the track as if the chassis is slightly twisted. Good tip about checking them on glass. More investigation required. Cheers.

Thanks I'll try a bit more weight. As you say, It'll be no problem for modern Hornby, Bachmann and Heljan locos.

Can anyone advise me please re: 00 models of HBA / HEA wagons? I have a rake of 12 purchased many years ago. I've only just got round to trying to run them on my layout! To me, they still look good and hold up well. Problem is they don't hold on to the track very well! My goodness, they are light footed! They are from a mixture of manufacturers - Dapol, Bachmann (and possibly Mainline?) and all have the same type of plastic tension lock couplings (not the narrow NEM type). So, I have re-wheeled them with Bachmann metal wheels (some of them were originally plastic) and I have added extra weight with Deluxe Materials Liquid Gravity. I read somewhere that 25 grams per axle is an optimum weight. So each of my wagons now weighs 50 grams. I checked and adjusted all the axles back to back measurements. Track is Peco Code 100, and well laid (even though I say so myself!) and no other stock derails. But these just seem come off randomly - never the same wagon or at the same place! Really strange, and I can't fathom out why just these particular wagons. And now I've run out of ideas! Has anyone else had problems with these? They have been around for years so thousands must have been sold! Any ideas or solutions gratefully received. Thanks.

I'm ashamed to say I never heard of that layout, but I just checked it out and it looks brilliant. https://nickwood4.wixsite.com/much-murkle/page2

I just downloaded loaded the latest version of Windows 10 (still available free from Microsoft) for a mate on his old Acer Laptop which still had Windows 8! https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10?ranMID=24542&ranEAID=0JlRymcP1YU&ranSiteID=0JlRymcP1YU-MIYNq3OrkODxJaoAXOlF0Q&epi=0JlRymcP1YU-MIYNq3OrkODxJaoAXOlF0Q&irgwc=1&OCID=AID2000142_aff_7593_1243925&tduid=(ir__sw1nnvs6n9kfq33xkk0sohz3ze2xsk0imcxlad0300)(7593)(1243925)(0JlRymcP1YU-MIYNq3OrkODxJaoAXOlF0Q)()&irclickid=_sw1nnvs6n9kfq33xkk0sohz3ze2xsk0imcxlad0300 It did take a few hours though because I only have 11mbps broadband. I reset the machine back to factory condition (easy to do through System Recovery) first. Made sure all files etc were backed up on external drive first. His ancient laptop now goes like a rocket, now it's all clean with the latest Windows 10 which obviously includes all the latest updates. The latest Edge browser is also very good IMO. Just thought I'd post this in case anyone has an old PC they may have given up on, which he had. Well worth doing.

I still have a few rakes of Lima Mk3s, GUVs and a couple of Class 156s Class 73s and 92s as well. IMO all still look good and run well and I'm not going to re-wheel them. So I still use code 100 as everything will run on it. With the rail sides painted, and sleepers and ballast weathered (and vegetation added to little used sidings!) I'm still pleased with it. Depends on how much Lima and Hornby Dublo you've still got I guess. Edit: I have added a photo of my old Hornby 142 which has really chunky wheels! It's amazing how a bit of paint and weathering powder can transform the look of old track and trains! And (OT) the 142 is hard wired for DCC with one cheap decoder and it's motors wired together. And it runs superbly .... on Code 100 of course!