cravensdmufan

I still have a few rakes of Lima Mk3s, GUVs and a couple of Class 156s Class 73s and 92s as well. IMO all still look good and run well and I'm not going to re-wheel them. So I still use code 100 as everything will run on it. With the rail sides painted, and sleepers and ballast weathered (and vegetation added to little used sidings!) I'm still pleased with it. Depends on how much Lima and Hornby Dublo you've still got I guess. Edit: I have added a photo of my old Hornby 142 which has really chunky wheels! It's amazing how a bit of paint and weathering powder can transform the look of old track and trains! And (OT) the 142 is hard wired for DCC with one cheap decoder and it's motors wired together. And it runs superbly .... on Code 100 of course!

I had a similar problem when first using DCC. My layout was continuous run "roundy roundy", not end to end. I installed a continuous bus wire all the way round to which I connected the tracks at numerous places. Trains would speed up and slow down intermittently, and decoders (all different makes) would sometimes behave strangely. Kevin from Coastal DCC helped me solve it. He advised me not to have the bus wires continuous, but to split it. Which I have now conceniently done by means of my lift out section (I used to feed it from both ends, now just from one). i.e. the bus wires are now in a U shape rather than a complete circle if that makes sense! It completely cured the problem. I certainly don't know the ins and outs of DCC but possibly the decoders were previously getting digital signals from both directions and were getting confused?! Others may be able to explain it better. Anyway, delighted with my DCC layout ever since - all decoders work perfectly on it. I

It's the coupling cams that sometimes get stuck and don't spring back when coming back off the curve. Happens with other Hornby diesels including 31s 50s and 60s. The subject has been covered before in other threads. To cure this, use a DRY lubricant applied between the metal plate and the v shaped sprung coupling cam. I've found that Labelle PTFE dry powder lubricant works best; others have suggested graphite pencil, but I've not tried that. I only ever treated my locos once with the powder some years ago, and never had problems since. I made a short video about it recently.

Another vote for Evo-Stik from me. I always use it for securing pivoting axle assemblies on wagons. Did all my old Hornby HAAs, OBAs etc and replaced wheels with Hornby's metal ones; glued both axle assemblies on each wagon and they negotiate the 2nd radius curves in my hidden sections no problem, and no wobbles or derailments. I also use it to secure droopy tension lock couplings. I've found It's still the best glue to stick a lot of plastics used on chassis etc. Plus it gives plenty of time for adjustment before it sets. Just always keep a cocktail stick or similar to hand to break the stringy glue after it comes out the nozzle! I run quite long trains of 15x Hornby HAAs without problems. Not full length as per the OP but a good compromise that suits the size of my layout.

That is very useful information, thanks Sulzer. I think I will get one of the all grey 37s and have a go with IPA. I suppose at the end of the day, if I mess up at least this particular livery would be pretty easy to do a complete respray! Cheers.

Indeed it does, and the pantograph itself looks slightly overscale. It's the same old chestnut though. The dilemma for manufacturers seems to be either working and chunky, or non-working and finer scale (as per Hornby's Brecknell Willis on their 87). Modellers will have their own particular preference - it has been previously discussed at length. Personally I am in the scale, non-working camp. But I do find it strange that European models do have finer scale and operating pantographs. Maybe production costs and therefore retail prices are that much higher?

I very much agree with that. Without the TTS decoders it would have taken me a few more years to sound fit my entire fleet. I have combined what I consider the best of TTS sounds (fitted with upgraded speakers) with premium Loksounds and Zimos and am really delighted with them all. And it all started with one loco with sound! And of course once you have one, the others running around eerily silent don't seem quite right! Some of my first generation DMUs are still without sound - I'm just awaiting on a sound expert to fine tune a couple of projects - and consequently it's only those four units are not run at present. I never thought I'd be this happy with my model railways. So much progress in the last 20 years - it's fantastic actually.

Can't really help you with the sound problem Izzy but will follow with interest as I have around 20 odd TTS decoders fitted into various Hornby and Bachmann diesels. I must say all have been faultless, both control (once CVs have been fine tuned) and sound. Except for just one, strangely a 31 as well which behaves eratically - sometimes it judders, other times smooth despite changing CV150 to 1. I actually think it may be the loco mechanism needs servicing. Maybe a fine tune of the back emf CV as well. Anyway, sorry, I'm going on about a minor problem which doesn't relate to your problem with the sound.

The lower TDM cable ports have been modelled in their original positions; BR very soon moved them down lower due to reliability issues (water ingress I seem to remember being the reason?) leaving the four bolts from each as clearly seen on MGR Hooper's photo of 426 above. Plus of course the original multiple working cable boxes were blanked off by the time later liveries appeared, again as seen in the same photo.

Very much agree with that. I've often thought that separate detail - particularly handrails, which are sometimes overscale - can spoil the look of a model.

The Western Region used to run a light loco for staff transport between Paddington / Old Oak Common usually a Class 47 I seem to remember in the 1980s (after which possibly by a BR minibus? Or maybe a loco was used when a minibus wasn't available?). Sorry I can't be more specific about dates etc but I just remember often seeing a good few footplate staff clambering into both cabs! Hopefully others could provide more information.

Replaced mine with Shawplan nameplates which are indeed smaller than the printed ones. Reduced size of Hornby printed plates with blunt cocktail stick dipped in a little IPA which did not leave any shiny finish on the paintwork. Then weathered lightly with Tamiya powder, as I do with all my stuff.

I would love to see an 86/2 - the most numerous of the sub classes - but I don't think that has ever been announced has it? Seems strange they are going for 86/4s and 86/6s first.

Hi folks - I know it's boring but I'd really like a plain departmental grey 37 and I was looking at Bachmann's 142 in a model shop showcase today. https://www.Bachmann.co.uk/product/class-37-0-37142-br-engineers-grey/32-788db However, I couldn't quite bring myself to part with £155 because this particular model has an oversize white BR double arrow on the cab side. Love the loco, but not the logo! Was this for real? So I thought I'd come home and check it out. Sure enough a Google Images search does reveal the real loco did indeed have this on in 1990! https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fclass37-growlers.weebly.com%2Fclass-371.html&psig=AOvVaw06fpyeFEfNziENma1CoWr8&ust=1601914911455000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCJCezJusm-wCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD My question is this - did anybody buy this model and remove the printed logo? If so, how easily did it come off, and which method did you choose? I don't rerally fancy risking the T Cut method as I don't want to end up with a shiny cab side! Ideally I'd like to re-number and use one of Shawplan's excellent etched arrows. Any advice would be welcome- thanks.

Really like the bridge. Is it all scratch built?

I just checked the recently purchased tins I used for my roofs. They all have stickered lids and side stickers with the Sandwich address along with "Made In The UK" complete with Union flag. I was pleased with the flat matt finish from all five numbered tins. Applied one coat with a wide brush. That's my experience, anyway. It's very strange.

Here's one of my 105's - roof brush painted with Humbrol 67 just a couple of weeks ago. One single coat. I must say I was really pleased with the flatness of the colour. This is all very strange, I must say!

I have exactly the same set up Ian. A nice looking panel diagram with push switches but a massive jumbly nest of wires behind it! What the eye doesn't see..... Never had any push button switch or solenoid failures in the last 9 years yet....but now that I've gone and said that.....!

That's curious - what matt numbers did you have problems with? I have repainted a good few carriage roofs recently using fresh 32, 66, 67, 79 and 104 plus mixtures thereof to avoid uniformity. All went on well and dried a good flat matt. Strangely I have noticed that they do dry a lot quicker nowadays, usually to the touch in under an hour. I always stir them with a flat blade for about 5 minutes before use - the paint is always really thick at the bottom of the tin.

I have found that the quality of Humbrol enamels has been all over the place during the past few years. Certainly when I was using them in the 70's it was consistently superb, when their great range of railway colours was available - sadly missed. Then in the last few years I found them inconsistent. Possibly due to change in manufacturing methods to comply with health and safety? Or the fact they were made in China? Who knows? I see that the latest tinlets I have purchased are now made back here in the UK. And they have all brushed on fine, though I have been adding a splash of thinners. Can only suggest that it's best to check that what you buy is good fresh stock. I will follow the thread with interest.

I have indeed welcomed the joy of TTS into my three Bachmann 08s! And at a third of the cost of "full fat" offerings! With a few CV tweaks they are every bit as controllable at all speeds, right down to a scale walking pace or less. With upgraded speakers from Richard at Roads and Rails (who has also stated that TTS 08 sound is good) they are excellent value. As @ikcdab says, just go easy on the throttle (my Bachhy 08s are low geared anyway) - you can notch the engine revs up with F5, and down with F6, or give a blip of harder revs with F8. All very controllable, and really good IMO.

OK, so I just did a quick stocktake of my stuff and here is the list of older items which I still happily run on the layout alongside modern items. Most have been just lightly weathered, and to my eyes none of them look dated or out of place. All these were purchased pre 1995 which is the year I left actual railway modelling aside for around 10 years (though I kept buying magazines throughout). Of course when I came back it was like a different world with all the wonderful stuff which had become available. Traction: Lima Class 73 Lima Class 92 Bachmann 03 (the old version) Lima Class 156 (just added a tiny bit of painted detail) I hard wired decoders to all the above (including the split chassis 03!) and with good maintenance they all run sweetly. Coaches: Airfix Mk2Ds ( as I mentioned above) Lima Mk3s (correct colour Intercity executive colours to my eyes) Hornby Mk4s again, correct Intercity shades from Hornby back in the day; what went wrong since?! I will still run these with the new 91. I replaced the wheels with finer metal ones and will paint interior seating. Mainline RBR Lima Mk1 GUV Wagons: Lima Blue Circle Cement 4 wheel PDA Lima 4 wheel Grainflow Hornby VIX ferry van

Without wishing to sound facetious, I think you're lucky! On all my TTS fitted diesels the lights are far too bright and, as Kaput says, there are no CVs to adjust brightness. (I always reduce mine by applying blackened paper tape over the LEDs - but of course that's not the answer to your problem!).

I should like to add Airfix Mk2d coaches to the list please. I purchased mine around 1977 and remember thinking wow! I'm still running them on my layout some 43 years later hauled by wonderful modern Hornby and Bachmann locos - and to my eye these coaches still look good. All I ever did was replace the wheels with metal ones, and applied FMR (now Fox?) white lining transfers. No need to replace them with more modern versions IMO.

My Dad bought me an oval of Tia-ang track (with grey plastic moulded ballast, a Jinty plus two very short red and cream coaches, and a couple of wagons (UD milk and a cattle wagon). Plus a big metal transformer / controller. All Tri-ang. And all from a church jumble sale. I was absolutely delighted with it - the love of toy trains started there - and has never left me since - some 60 years later!