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cravensdmufan

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Everything posted by cravensdmufan

  1. Haven't had a chance to go see them in Lincoln yet, but will take loco in next time I'm there.
  2. That's terrible you lost 4 Loksounds. You have been more than unlucky. My latest Zimo controls the motor very well but I get a strange buzzing sound which fluctuates (almost like a bee or a wasp! - no I'm not going mad!). This sound still happens when I disconnect the speaker. It's definitely not the loco mechanism as I tried it in a couple of other locos that I know to be silent runners. I have a small layout room so operate my sound locos at a low volume - the Zimo decoder is the only one which buzzes so loudly I can hear it in addition to the loco sound! Using a Zimo speaker LS40x20x09 sold to me by Digitrains with the decoder, but the problem is definitely not the speaker.
  3. Got my second Zimo sound decoder a couple of weeks ago from Digitrains. Recorded sounds were good, but found the decoder buzzed loudly. At first I thought it was the loco mechanism but tried in another loco and was the same. Both those locos ran silently on cheap Hattons decoders! Never had that trouble with 15 Loksounds or 3 Hornby TTSs. So not that bothered about buying more Zimos TBH.
  4. I just use Tamiya powders and sometimes a few dabs of artist's acrylic for rust. They stay on well yet will come off easily with a wipe of alcohol on a cotton bud if necessary, so easily reversible. I never seal them and with careful handling they only need to be topped up just occasionally. I always think less says more, so perfect for me anyway.
  5. Swapmeets were really great. Part exchanges and deals with fellow enthusiasts - always a friendly atmostphere. Miss those events. Toyfairs are OK but not quite the same. As you say eBay probably killed them off. Even our local bi monthly toyfair seems to be less well patronised these days. Everything's got very commercial.
  6. Be nice to see re-release of an INTERCITY one to go with new 87 010 Edit: and if we could have the facility of being able to attach a front coupling for dragging purposes that would be fantastic, thank you!
  7. https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2017/nov/29/east-coast-rail-franchise-terminated-three-years-early-virgin-trains I always felt it was never a case of "if", but "when". 3rd private operator to hand the keys back. Disgraceful.
  8. Very nice sounds - and love that retaining wall with grafitti! CDF
  9. Got to Warley alright and enjoyed the show. Back to station tonight, inserted ticket into the car park machine and electric window completely failed, in the down position of course! 40 minutes drive home. Still thawing out!
  10. Both pre production liveried 87s looking good on the Hornby stand at Warley today - but neither with a pantograph. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to ask Paul for an update on the current status of the pantographs, Did anyone else make enquires?
  11. If it's like the separate TTS decoder that I put in my super detailed (not Railroad) Class 31 that little bit of jerky behaviour can be cured by altering the algorithm CVs as detailed in the easiest to follow instruction sheet I have ever received with a sound decoder. I have found that with fine tuning these TTS decoders are just as smooth and controllable as my Loksounds and Zimos.
  12. I use a small amount or Labelle 134 dry powder on the metal plate where the cam rubs. The lubricant ensures the coupling always remains free moving and springs back to centre position. A graphite pencil may do the job as well. But dry lubrication is the key. Only needed to apply once and never had any problem since with my Hornby Classes 31 50 56 or 60's. Perfect, even with the lightest wagons in tow. Labelle is made in USA and not widely available here in the UK - I got mine at an exhibition some years ago. It is expensive but a bottle will last a lifetime. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Labelle-430-000134-NEW-LABELLE-MICRO-FINE-POWDER-WITH-PTFE/112565776821?hash=item1a357171b5:g:K6IAAOSwxflZvMog
  13. Paid £4.75 for my copy last week - faithfully and reliably saved for me each month at my local newsagent. Not impressed at all seeing it is available for 99p at WHS. So much for trying to support a small independent shop, Had a similar disappointment with BRM some months ago when there was a free gift attached with copies from certain large outlets. Alas no free gift with mine. This sort of thing annoys me I'm afraid.
  14. Had the very same problem with my Bachmann 101's. They were picking ip juice from the power bogie wheels but only intermittently from the trailing bogie. See my solution here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/70508-Bachmann-dmu-pick-ups/?p=1947576 which has cured it.
  15. Further to previous posts regarding dimming of lights on Hattons decoders, I emailed Hattons again and got the following very helpful reply: "I have been in contact with DCC Concepts for you, and they have confirmed that you will need to alter the following CV's: The relevant CV's are 49-52 for the for function outputs - white/yellow/green/purple wire respectively. To dim the outputs. Set to 12 to operate in forward. Set to 28 to operate in reverse. Set to 44 to operate both directions. The dimming value is set in CV64. Default is 4. Note - you cannot have different dimming levels for each output." Pleased to report it works. Value 1 produced a very dim flicker under my Class 40 headcode discs. Just perfect!
  16. Thanks to everyone for their replies. Those do look nice Porcy, so I have just ordered a set. I think the problem with mine is that the shank surround looks too chunky and probably a bit too long as well. So I'm looking forward to receiving these new ones from Lanarkshire. CDF
  17. Hi everyone, Just fitted a set of A1 Models' Oleos to Hornby 56 013. Now wondering if they are overscale? Or is that I'm too used to seeing the original Hornby oval ones? Would welcome comments please.
  18. Before I noticed this thread, yesterday I emailed the Peco Technical Advice Burea about fitting PL-13's as I thought the instruction on the leaflet about gluing them onto the PL-10 seemed a little strange - surely they should clip on securely?! Got the following reply this morning: Quote: "The best way to fit them to the PL-10 was, and remains, contact adhesive (such as “EVO-STIK”)." So that is indeed the official method CDF
  19. Spent all day there today. Fantastic exhibition as always (and had a nice cooked lunch!). Great layouts and good variety of traders. Well done organisers, exhibitors and Showgound staff. Plus a special thanks to Market Deeping and St Neots club stewards. Really enjoyed it.
  20. There is a groove on the real things alright. I must admit that I'd never noticed it before probably as they were covered with dirt. Here's a photo that shows it quite clearly https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cf/87028_Crewe_1988.jpg
  21. Thanks posting photos DavidM. Glad to see that Hornby have shifted the lower TDM sockets to the bottom of the cab fronts on the IC version. Looking great.
  22. More great stuff SB80's, thanks for posting - very inspirational. I bought a Bachmann 37 284 recently and was mightily disappointed with the shade of BR blue, it was almost turquoise - well to my eyes! Managed to tone it right down just using Tamiya and Humbrol powders. Looking great now. Now I intend to address the underframe, tanks and bogies trying your methods as advised in post #40, so thanks for that information. Just one more question - did you airbrush or brush paint the bogies etc? And I am particularly interested how you do your wheels. Many thanks. CDF
  23. That DMU green looks spot on. Very neat brush painting. Did you thin the Railmatch enamel?
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