Tony Walker

Martin, If it's only a three function decoder then yes you need to connect to the green wire. The white and yellow wires will be connected to the headlights. If it's a four function decoder, then there should be a purple wire as well, which you can use in the same way to connect to the tail lights on the other end. If it is only three function, then remember to disconnect the other wire, otherwise the tail lights will still work on one end. Tony.

Martin, Why not wire the tail lights to the 3rd and 4th outputs and then you can turn the tail lights on and off via the decoder. Then if you want to run it light engine at any point you can turn the tail lights on. Unfortunately I haven't got any wiring notes for the early Bachmann 66 in by book. I would suggest you take each wire off in turn and check which lights don't work. Once you find out which wire goes to the tail lights, then connect it up to either the green or purple wire to work the tail lights. DON'T FORGET to put a resistor into the joint between the two wires, otherwise you will blow the LED's! A very simple way of controlling the tail lights without too much effort. Most of my Bachmann 66's have been converted with Express Models light kits, so I have full control over all the lights, but you need to use a function only decoders as well. Although nowadays you can get decoders with eight outputs. Hope that helps, Tony.

I've purchased a couple of Dapol Imperium 3 8 function decoders and fitted them into the Hattons class 66. These give you independent marker and tail lights and independent day and night headlights, if anyone is interested in DCC fitted only, rather than sound. Obviously there's no control on the cab lighting. Tony.

I've finally got around to carrying this mod to my three class 73's. I just did one bogie on one 73 at first to see how well it worked. Ran the loco without the mod, then did the mod to one bogie and ran it again. What a difference it made with just one bogie. So I did both bogies on the first one, then did the mod to the other two. Faultless running now, no stuttering or needing a push to get going and the slow running is spot on. Thanks very much Temeraire for the details. And best still, it doesn't take that long. Probably spent longer re-assembling the brake mechanism on one of the bogies, which fell off, than actually converting one loco.

What about flashing tail lamps, adding that extra bit to your wagons. See links below.

Yes, emails for packing, posting and a link for the Post Office tracking. The emails from the Post Office to say they had the parcel, when it was being delivered (within a 1 hour slot) and lastly, one to say it had been delivered (which I knew!).

It doesn't mention it in the spec, but will the headlight be wired separate to the marker lights, so it can be switched independently if using DCC? Hope this is the case, so it saves messing with the wiring at some stage. Thanks Tony.

Thanks Fran, Good to know, Tony.

Fran, How will the snow ploughs be attached? Will they be linked to the body or attached to the bogies, so the move round when the loco goes around a corner? Please say to the chassis, as the Bachmann 37 looks daft when the snow ploughs move with the bogies. Tony.

Check the direction of the coach and on the controller. The rear lamp needs to be at the rear of the coach, so the direction is important. Change the direction and it should work. Tony.

Andrew, The blue/grey are the FO and the intercity are TSO. Tony.

I've got both blue/grey and intercity coaches and have compared both. I think it's the black roof that highlights the problem, as it doesn't show on the blue/grey version. As for the floor and glazing problems, the coaches I have don't have this, so not sure why this appears to be an issue. Tony.

Peter, I haven't messed with any of the CV's just in case something goes wrong. It would have been good if Bachmann had provided a list of them and what they do, so we could dim the lights or change the function keys around. Might email them and see what they say. Will let you know if I get a response. Tony.

Peter, I've programmed my coaches as though they were a loco and it worked. Coach on the program track, read CV 3 and then programmed a new number. Also read back CV29 to see what it was set on. Must say I was surprised and expected errors, as I assumed it was a function decoder that has been used. I use Lenz DCC system by the way. Tony.

Harry, Sorry for the delay. All I did was cut an oblong hole in the chassis base, to suit the Black Beetle motor, ensuring there was enough clearance for it to turn. Then took a strip of brass long enough to go across the hole. I drill a hole in the centre of it to take the screw to secure the motor. Then located the centres of the bogies and soldered the brass piece to the chassis and carefully bent it upward slightly, so the chassis was parallel with the track. It was a simple as that. If you need a photo, then let me know. Tony.

Harry, Mine is fitted with a Black Beetle motor, but it's been such a long time I'm not sure how I fitted it. If you do want to go this way, let me know and I'll check how I fitted it. Tony.

Francis, See my post in the DCC section on the Dapol Imperium decoder. There's a link to the CV settings that have worked for me. Tony Here's the link .https://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Technical_Info/Tech_Manuals/Comprehensive%20Programming%20Guide.pdf

Having purchased a couple of these and had a play using the TCS instruction sheet, all seems to work with this decoder. See link for the instructions. Before you make any changes please ensure you make a note of the current values of any CV's before you change anything. Then if it doesn't work you can always put it back to how it was. https://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Technical_Info/Tech_Manuals/Comprehensive%20Programming%20Guide.pdf

Mike, I've recently purchased 68008 but only just fitted a decoder. I've managed to get an ESU Lokpilot Standard 53614 MTC21 and everything works with no modifications to the circuit board. F0 switches front head lights/front tail lights (with reversing) F1 switches on the rear head lights, F2 the rear tail lights, F5 the front halo lights and F6 the rear halo lights. The cab lights come on with F0/F1 and front headlights. Hope that helps you and others re the wiring and what works with this circuit board. Tony.

The paperwork in the Dutch 47 says it's a version 4 decoder, so I assume it must be. Tony.

Dave, I've chipped two class 68's using Lokpilot 53614's. Both worked straight away but I did change two CV's to give full independent lighting on all the lights. I changed CV34 to 1 and CV41 to 2. Then this gave me - FO Front main lights F1 Rear main lights F2 Rear tail lights F5 Front Halo lights F6 Rear Halo lights F7 Front tail lights. I left F3 as shunting mode and F4 as Acc/Dec Off. Hope that helps. I haven't a problem with any of the three cl68's I've done, so there's nothing wrong with the wiring. Tony.

Had a response from Dapol re an accessory bag with full air dams etc. If there's enough interest then they could do them with the next batch. So if you are interested in these then please let Dapol know, so we can benefit. Thanks Tony.

Photomunki, I'm in the same boat. I wanted the full air dams at each end, but have had to settle for one full and one with a slot. I've emailed Dapol to see if there will be an accessory pack containing at least one full air dam and a full set of pipes. I'll let you know how I get on, once I get a reply. I have noticed that DCC Supplies have a full set of buffer beam pipes etc. now available for the class 73's, so hopefully the same will be available for the class 68's as well soon. Tony.

Not sure if folk are still after any of these two locos, but London Underground have got a sale on and there's 20% off them in their Boxing Day sale. So if you want either of them I suggest you get on to their website today and place your order. Thirty Four pounds is a good saving and brings them back to the original price when they were first advertised, I think. Tony.

Ian (Temeraire), Any chance I could get a copy please, I've got a couple of cl73 that are now running very well and would like to get them sorted. Thanks in advance, Tony.