ianLMS

I decided to start working my way through my wagon kits making a change from building loco's for a while. In my drawer i came across a Jidenco kit for an LMS 12T vented van i got cheap off ebay, so i thought i'd give it ago. I had built a Jidenco kit before so i knew it was going to be a challenge. There were no instructions and no roof, but everything else seemed present including axle boxes. I made a best guess at how to assemble it, making up the doors and runners first, using scrap brass sprue to bulk up the thickness and add the reveal. The detail brackets were included in the kit. I then folded up the sides and ends and tack soldered to ensure it was square, then soldered the joints fully. I solderex on the door assembly and the corner plates. I had a sprue of wagon detailing parts which included straps, riveted detail strips and various other parts. I added these as necessary based on drawings in the LMS Wagon Vol 1 book i had. The kit did not match any single picture in the book. The corner plates are of the style used for horizontal planked vans, whereas this kit had vertical. Small detail and nothing i am concerned about. I folded up the solebars, soldering into position under the body, then the buffer beams. I seperated the brakes from the underframe assembly and soldered them into position, lining up using the wheels and a square. Using .8mm rod, i then added in the brakes. I added in buffers and roof vents from Lankarkshire Models, Alan Gibson wheels, and Slaters couplings. I fitted 30g of wheel balancing lead inside then fabricated a roof from sheet brass. An interesting build and i am happy with how it is turning out. Primed and ready for LMS freight grey paint and decals.

I incorporated an isolated section of track in a siding at the front of the layout for programming. Its switched via a simple double pole double throw switch to change it from main to programming. I can run a loco in off the main layout, flick the switch, go into programming mode, make adjustments, flick back to main and rejoin the layout. Brian Lamberts electrical page on DCC covers it well. I have a cheap second hand Prodigy controller for my bench track plus a gaugemaster controller for testing both analogue and dcc. Again, i switch between the two using a douple pole double throw switch.

The one at the top is Wizard models, the middle is from MJT and the bottom brass ones are from Markits

I purchased a cheapo girly one from Sainsburys because it was the cheapest they had. About £15 if i recall. It has a "cool" button which shuts off the heat temporarily if you need to, 2 speeds and an attachment which narrows the jet of air so u can focus where you want it!! To be honest, any old cheap hair dryer would do the trick. Unless u r a pro stylist of course!!!

recommends goo-gone in this video on you-tube. Available on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1321852966?iid=325041517510 Not tried it myself though.

Lanarkshire Models are my preference and they have a good range. Markits are good, stronger being brass not white metal but more expensive. Making your own with brass wire shouldnt be too difficult though.

Mr Ian Rathbone recommended using a hair dryer to dry between coats in the Right Track DVD series. I have been using that method ever since watching it and it definately works. All you are doing is accelerating the evaporation of the thinners in the paint. I use it for drying airbrushed or hand brushed models with no issues, even on a very warm setting. Edit. The only time i dont use the hair dryer is when i use an etching primer for brass models. I prefer to leave it the full 24 hours to harden and etch into the metal properl Edit #2 just applied 3 top coats of enamel phoenix crimson lake to a tender in 30 mins. Drying with the hair dryer between each coat. Final coat will be left to harden properly for 24 hrs before applying gloss varnish for the transfers.

I just remembered that i have had success with Silver Tay Models on Ebay though. Nice etched plates but i believe they are nameplate and smokebox number sets. Email him and he might do a custom plate or sets of numbers. Reasonably priced as well.

Great idea!! I struggled to get plates for an LMS jubilee without the BR '4' prefix. In the end i trimmed the plates to lose the '4'. I note that Pacific Models do custom smoke box number plates but a tad pricey at £18!! These are not etched though. Printed on paper!!! http://www.pacificmodels.co.uk/bespoke-sheets/lms-2-3-4-5-digit

I have the FBS240/E with a stand to turn it into a pillar drill and i really cannot fault the quality. Cheaper mini drills can vibrate quite badly but the Proxxon is super smooth and fairly quiet especially on the lower speed settings. I also have the flexi attachment which comes in handy for tighter spaces.

I think Humbrol 20 acrylic is a very close match to LMS crimson Lake. I sprayed a kit built bus using it over halfords red primer. First time using acrylic through my airbrush for full painting. Also attached is a photo of a kit built loco sprayed using Phoenix Precision enamel LMS Crimson as a comparison. Again, sprayed over red primer. Lighting makes a difference to how it appears. I find using grey primer turns the shade more purple. Humbrol make a specific crimson lake acylic paint but i havent tried it. AB2403 Crimson Lake Humbrol (Acrylic) AB2403 Crimson Lake Ian

Did this issue get resolved? I had 4 ADS8FX's which i swapped for ADS8SX's. The issue could be where you may have inadvertantly shorted out the wires on the output of the adsfx to the particular point motor. Usually happens if you change wires over while power is still in the capacitor or its still powered up. All u get is a constant clicking until you disconnect it. I lost 3 outputs in the end which is ok as i was able to link points at crossovers etc as a form of inteelocking to over come it. When i spoke to dcc concepts, they advised that unfortunately, they cannot be repaired. Worth asking them though just in case. Ian

You could pick up one of these and use the dimensions as a guide for upscaling it to 7mm. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255267953687?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1qIfNoP2bTliWTs8Trh05QA7&customid=CjwKCAjw-8qVBhANEiwAfjXLrsz1Q-i3-bOlfDAVlQrbdmrXA7fArnyGCWD4498_4xkXWr0qgMpWTBoC_00QAvD_BwE Ian

I just cant see any other viable option 😀

Interesting! Well, now i have an excuse to build a Pacific!!!

And the bus waiting at the station

Correction - i used the tender for a Royal Scot. Better in one way as its LMS Crimson so can easily swap it with a Jubilee one.

Going back to the OP, for our stage lighting cases and road trunks, we have purchased large sheets of foam and cut it to size. https://www.anyfoam.co.uk/sheet-foam.php?item=4 Ian

I used a Comet tender chassis kit under the body so b) and c) wasnt an issue. Getting it square mind took a fair bit of fettling!!!!

Ah!! The light bulb comes on now! I bought a bag of bits and there were parts of a Stanier tender kit which i built thinking it would go with a Black 5 i was building. The tender looked a little odd compared to my other Stanier tenders. It resembled tenders from a K's kit. I now know its a high sided kit meant for a Jubilee!!! Thanks for that!!!!

There are a couple of threads covering high sided tenders. If you search 4mm high sided tenders in Google, the links come up. Some mention Alan Gibson as a potential supplier. Not sure if he still sells the tender sides though.

Latest addition to the layout. I felt the car park was lacking something so built this nice little Anbrico kit of a Leyland TS8. With help from folks on the Road Vehicle thread, we decided that Ribble would be a suitable operator for my area in 1939. Glass is microscope slides. Very fiddly and time consuming and some dont fit perfectly, but i think they look better than the plastic strip behind the frames. First time i had airbrushed using Humbrol acrylics and so far, i am impressed with how it went. Humbrol 20 for the main parts and 41 for the "cream", although it looks white to me!

The completed Anbrico kit of the Leyland TS8. Although probably not entirely accurate livery or even bus type for Ribble, i like it. I used microscope slide covers for the glass which was tricky, and some dont fit exactly right, i do think it looks better that the plastic they provide. Hope u like it!! I had to make the front glass split pane and window wiper out of .33mm nickel silver.

Wizard models supply white metal fittings for LMS coaches. Once painted, you wouldnt know they werent resin. https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/carriage/ucm1/ Ian

I just pm'd the tender information for the compounds from the pages of the LMS locomotive Profiles #13 book. Several different tenders including Deeley, hybrid versions and Fowler both flush and snap head rivetted. several pics showing smooth sided tenders in BR livery in the book.