ianLMS

Good morning folks, I have 6 hidden sidings and have tried different ways to detect when the loco's have reached the point they need to stop so they don't foul the adjoining tracks. I have tried Infra-red, reed switches and CCTV but none really work perfectly. I have a z21 Start, wi-fi enabled, however I tend to use the red multimaus hand-controller and operate points via DCC Concepts ADS-8SX's and momentary switches on a mimic board (i like the old ways sometimes) I am looking at the various feedback/block/occupancy detectors available, but am unsure which the best one would be for what I am looking for. Points to consider; 1. There are 6 sidings, 3 for each direction hidden under a hillside 2. I can access the tracks as the hillside is hinged so can isolate sections if required 3. I would like the ability for the detector to light up LED's on the mimic board when the loco is in the section 4. I do not want to fit reed switches/magnets (been there/done that) 5. I don't use PC control or the tablet much but may want to in the future (i like the idea of automation, just not savvy or brave enough yet) 6. Price isn't too much of a consideration if its going to do the job I need it to. 7. I use predominantly Zimo decoders. As always, any assistance or advise would be greatly appreciated. Ian

Wonder if u can get hold of the folks who own the vacant Debenhams buildings in town centres and use those. I know there is a huge one in Bury St Edmunds in East Anglia that would take the layout easily. And its only 30 mins from me. I am sure Bristol and all majot towns and cities are sitting on vacant department stores! Maybe one of the owners is a railway modeller!! Who knows!

You too Baz!!!

I have a couple more BSL kits and i picked up a 247 Development Stanier Brake 3rd kit off ebay. Will build them after i finish my Jamieson Black 5 on a Hornby DCC chassis build. Not as easy as it sounds either!!!

I only have the one but there is always room for more!!

Very nice indeed Barry!!!

Start with small dia drills and work your way up. Slow speed as if it gets too hot, it will melt the white metal. It might grab, and if it does hopefully only the glue fails and it doesnt damage the chimney or smoke box. Lubricating the drill bit may help and make sure they are new and very sharp. Failing that, large, sharp bit and slowly take slithers away by hand Good luck!!!!

I use High Level gearboxes and Comet ones from Wizard. I believe Mr Wright swears by the DJH gearbox and motor combination. Pricey but supposedly superior to anything else. I hope to try one and see if they are worth the extra cost. https://www.djhmodelloco.co.uk/prodpage.asp?productid=3200

I have one of these and built several brass, n/s and white metal kits worh it. The hot air is great at melting white metal solder into joints as well as using it for heat shrink. I have an 80w iron for thick brass, definately needed for boiler/smoke boxes where the thinkness of the brass needs super heating. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-Temperature-Stabilization-Function-Electronic/dp/B08YD66SXZ/ref=asc_df_B08YD66SXZ/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=518826793409&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10213958045794576244&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006589&hvtargid=pla-1324095034465&psc=1

I have the standard ones and they work fine on analogue, dcc and for my kit locos. Gold is def more conductive, but as u dont have gold rails on the track i wouldnt see the value if using it to test performance on how the loco would work on the track. Its probably a minor difference, and not sure how much extra the gold ones are compared to the standard ones.

I built my permanent layout out of several 18mm chipboard loft boards, an old flat door, sides of an old wardrobe and plywood all on a 2"×2" frame. The layout is 14'x8'. So far, 8 years later, its still standing, no warping issues, no issues with gluing ballast down. Yes, its a pain to cut and drill and if i do it all again, 9mm ply will be my weapon of choice.

Halfords plastic primer followed by your choice of enamel or acrylic paints. Apply a base colour, followed by picking out stones with varying shades, then finish off with weathering powders. I use life color stone shades but it depends on the type of stone you want to represent. Although i model in 4mm, i would imagine the process would work in 7mm.

Stunning!!! We had our wedding reception in The Dunraven Arms in Adare and my wife was living in Newcastle West when i met her. She orignally came from Foynes which is where we will be next week visiting her family. As for the weathering, the rails look good. Yes, you will need to clean areas where you solder. Dropper wires can be soldered to the bottom side of the rail as well though. You can also use powdsrs to weather the sleepers but a coat of dark brown/black would work.

Welcome Latestarter! and Kerry is a beautiful part of the world. My wife's family is from Limerick with a branch living in Kerry. Will be there next week for a visit all being well!!! Agree with the comments above. I use Phoenix rusty rails enamel for the rails sprayed via an airbrush but use a paint brush for points etc. I have a pack from Ammo which provides several different colours to use for the sleepers, rails and the shades on the ballast and these are Acrylic. I dont prime the track first, it seems to stick ok but i use Peco track, not Hornby. You may need to prime Hornby first. Just be careful around the point blades and slide bars when weathering the points. Good luck and enjoy!!! Ian

There are the types of things us minions would never have even contemplated!!!! Those flight cases are getting me excited to be back on the road with my PF tribute band next year!!!!

Showing the timber frame, over-laid with a card lattice, covered in blue paper towels soaked in PVA, or the 2nd photo, covered with plaster bandage.

Use card or wood formers to create the main frame of the scenery then cover with a lattice made of card strips from pet food boxes or cereal boxes. Fix with hot glue gun, then cover the tissue paper, kithen towel, blue paper towels or newspaper soaked in pva or wallpaper paste, then cover with plaster bandage. I will see if i can find any old pics for u

Found some!!!! https://www.langleymodels.co.uk/awd1/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=5344&search=Gnomes

I was tempted to put some in!!! Need a 4mm scale gnome as well!!!

Pond now filled with WS Realistic water and added a few lily pads. Plus added a little more vegetation around the terraced houses.

Now with added scenery to blend it in a little.

Just completed the garden and rough ground around the terraced houses

Im pretty much the same when it comes to gardening!!!