ianLMS

I am currently building a Falcon Brassworks LMS 20t Brake van d1659. It did not come with any instructions and am looking for help with the underframe. On the etch there is a part which fits underneath between the axles. Looking at pics online i can see it protrudes down and below the van floor and runs parallel to the solebars. However, i am wondering what it connects to?? Does anyone have a pic showing the layout of the connecting bars? In the photo below, you can see it clearly the assembly just not what it connects to as the bars dissappear over the axles. Thanks Ian

I agree that i doubt there is a 3 track tunnel in the real world. It was more a case of "needs must". I could and probably should have placed a support between track 2 and 3 to seperate them but wasnt too concerned at the time. If i re-build in the future, its something i will fix. It was more a case of giving an option to the OP that its easy to extend the width of a tunnel mouth if you need to widen the span for any reason. Whether its right or not is a different story!

For my 3 road tunnel, i purchased a Skytrex resin stone arch and cut it down the middle of the mouth. I then inserted a section of similar patterned resin to fill the gap so it stretched over the 3 tracks. I had photos in my layout page but got lost when the website went down. https://skytrex.com/collections/bridges-arches-tunnels/products/4-017-wide-stone-arch-separate-parapet-unpainted

Looking at the specs, the 10805 light booster doesnt have a CAN connection. The single and dual boosters do.

Thank you both. So, Z21 connects to the accessories using track outputs? Booster connects to track and connects to Z21 using the B-Bus? Am i right? I dont use Railcom

Quick question. I have a Z21 black (upgraded from my z21 Start) and i run 4 x ADS8SX accessory decoders for my points. I would like to seperate the accessories from the Z21 to prevent shorts knocking out the accessories and having to reset them. Would the Roco Z21 booster light do this? I assume i connect the booster to the Z21 and the track outputs to the accessory decoders instead of a section of track? Thank you Ian

Also made these little rotating storage thingies for my files, ba spinners and broaches. Upturned coffee tins with foamboard circles and bases.

And the new track layout, removing the double slip sorted out the link road which had a way too tight curve from the siding entry point. This gives me a dead end siding for offloading wagon loads using the yard crane

Pics of the Cambrian wagons and Jidenco fish van

Latest additions to the fleet. A Jidenco LMS 6-wheel fish van with modified chassis, a Cambrian models Meat van, 12t van and 2 5-planks ( pics to follow). Also a Jamieson Streamlined Duchess, 6243 "City of Lancaster" liveried as it came out of Crewe works in 1940. A few months later than my modelling period, but i think i am allowed one indiscretion!!! Build detail in the Kitbuilding section I am also currently removing a double slip and replacing it with a medium turnout to rectify an issue i had near the good sidings. Again, pics to follow. Maybe quiet on here but still busy modelling!!! Ian

Its taken a little while but i have now painted, lined and numbered the Duchess. Windows added using microscope slide cover (fixed with Deluxe glue n glaze....excess to be cleaned off). All thats left now is coal and crew and she can stretch her levs on the layout!! Gloss varnish was Alclad II Aqua Gloss. Transfers didnt quite go on level both sides but i am ok with it. Overall, although there are a few issues with the model, i am happy with how it turned out. Ian

Jidenco made a 6-wheel lms fish van. Just finished building it. Downside is that they have a fixed chassis. I wanted to use one of your chassis that u built for the Palethorpes vans but didnt know how to get hold of one so i built a modified version of yours, using parts from the comet w-iron kits, and doing a bit of cut n shunt. Seems to work.

There seems to be plenty of "temporary adhesive" options designed to remain tacky ideal for stencils erc. Here is one option i found https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aleenes-Tack-Over-Fabric-Glue/dp/B00178QQ84/ref=asc_df_B00178QQ84/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=261960893912&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2087086706777298648&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006589&hvtargid=pla-351755655315&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 Ian

Not sure what parts you need but there are a few for a 7mm 14xx here https://www.warrenshephard.com/Fittings.htm Cab fittings on ebay for £20 as well but i think you have those already

The other option of course is to wait for another 2nd hand kit to become available that has all the missing parts you require. Probably a lot easier to do for a popular 4mm kit than a rare 7mm one!!

I used to try and solder detailing parts, but destroyed more than i can remember. I now use epoxy or superglue for small parts but still solder the bigger bits. Good enough for the likes of Mr. Tony Wright, good enough for me!!!

I have used a Sparmax max 4 for 5 or so years and it works well. About £50. I also took a chance and picked up a used Iwata Neo for £40 and luckily it worked perfectly and sprays really nicely so a bargain in my eyes. Compresser was around £90 for an AS186 which again works really well. Spray booth,masks etc are all additional extras which you may need.

Body etch primed and riveted ready for a coat of red primer before the final coat of LMS Crimson Lake is applied and Fox transfers.

Polished aluminium would probably give pretty good results as a stainless steel body. BSL/Phoenix used Aluminium for their kit coaches and I have built several of them. A bit of Belgum Alloy cleaner and they would buff up a treat!

Glad it worked as well for you as mine does for me. Very handy peice of kit with several uses!!! "Question please, what is a good method in cleaning up the castings where there is old hard/caked on flux please, I have read some household cleaners may be useful" Answer. I use PCB flux remover to clean up all of my kits before washing them with Astonish kitchen cleaner especially before using superglue. Flux and Superglue do not work together!!! A soak in the flux cleaner and possible a sonic bath in it might do the trick. My sonic bath corroded within a year so i just use a brush. Flux Remover for PC Boards (Improved formulation) https://amzn.eu/d/jjaqyQ1 Ian

Use wet n dry sand paper. Fine grit would give a nice textured finish which can be dusted over with weathering powders or painted. The dark grey roll or sheet would work well for tarmac type surfaces. Disguise joins with drain channels or make them appear as expansion joints

Nice job there John. Handy bit of kit and did the job nicely for £30!! Will enjoy watching the re-build unfold in the next few episodes!!

Same temp range as mine and internals are probably made by the same folks. They all seem pretty generic. Not having tested this exact one its hard to say on the quality but i would think it would do the job you need. How long it will last is another thing altogether! Use the small nozzle to concentrate the heat where u need and add flux as u go. Whack it up full heat and give it quick bursts in frequent passss. Should stop the rest of the model heating up where u dont want it to. Good luck Ian

Amazon sells a single hot air rework unit for a few quid less as well. Hot Air Rework Station, Soldering Station iwth LCD Digital Display, Hot Air Gun Station Kit with Digital Display SMD Desoldering-Gun Station for BGA IC https://amzn.eu/d/hldKjzM Ian

I have one of these units that has a hot air gun attachment which is temp controlled. The heat gun is useful for flooding white metal into joints with no direct contact but also very useful at desoldering the joint when i screw up!! Had it for 4 years and used weekly and its been an excellent tool. YIHUA 862BD+ SMD Hot Air Rework Station and Soldering Station, 2 in 1 Station with Temperature Stabilization Function and Electronic DIY Projects Rework Repair https://amzn.eu/d/b03Sm8B