ianLMS

If the slower setting superglue is too slow, try an accelarator. The thicker glues are great for allowing time for adjustment and for gap filling but take ages to set. The thin glues set too fast so i tend to use an accelarator spray which reacts and causes the glue to set instantly. Helix is a good one.

I use A4 box files with thick card inserts to seperate the locos from each other. Can fit 4 large locos/standard coaches or 6-7 smaller locos in a boxfile. 15 or so wagons is achievable aswell. Packed well, there is no need for foam other than to fill gaps to pack them in tight enough to reduce movement. Just remember to store them flat, not upright!!!!

I believe the main reason for applying transfers to a glossy surface is to prevent tiny air bubbles under the surface which happens with matt or satin finishes. The air bubbles highlight the carrier film and can enable the transfer to lift off.

I use medium grade super glue. Gives you a good few seconds (15-30) to set in position.

Was this the green putty you referred to in the OP? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274273569306?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=KOcXdFU6Rlm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=h-I8RE2kQg-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY If so, Wayland Games has one left in stock! Thanks Ian

This one looks open but can imagine either open or closed would be fine. Mine is open top but you get a lot of dust on the "water"!! https://images.app.goo.gl/Nkyr4Q4m6UhWGNZQ9 Ian

Although not my preferred platform type, there is a laser cut mdf option, easily detailed with additional scoring, painting or adding texture/ slab papers. Gaps can be filled and sanded down. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253989846659?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bTXMS-6pQuW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=h-I8RE2kQg-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Other retailers such a scale model scenery or Lcut creative may do something similar. On a different note; My preference is for 18mm ply topped with chinchilla sand, painted grey and weathered (15mm is fine if you arent using cork underlay under the sleepers). Overhang is evergreen styrene strip scored with a compass. Side walls use Slaters plasticard. The ply is easy to cut to shape with a jigsaw. Just thought i would add it even though i note the OP is not after a scratchbuild option.

Not sure if this pic helps https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/5636865 I would say whatever is a common material found in the local area, covered with sawdust/hay and a lot of cow pats!!!

Thank you all for the info and for my layout, i have decided on the Ribble livery for the bus. It sits well with the area i am portraying and i ordered the Ribble gold Fox transfers at the same time as buying the kit.

I purchased an Anbrico kit so can do whichever livery i chooe with or without a wonky line!!

Looking at the cream line, it looks hand painted and you can see a feint raised area around the Ribble name. The model number used refers to the Western model, so my guess it was re-liveried. I will do the same! Ian

I wonder if this was a re-liveried model using decals?? https://images.app.goo.gl/X8VTrtNwub7pLZvt7

Thank you both for the reply. As i am not modelling a specific station, i think the Leyland would work. Not sure if they did a Ribble livery. Will do some more research. Appreciate the help. Thanks Ian

Good afternoon, I am looking for help with picking the right 1/76 scale bus for my layout. I am hoping to find a single deck (omnibus?) that would have served LMS stations in the West Riding/Lancashire area around late 1939. I have read LMS Road Vehicles and it looks like that by the early/mid 30's, LMS had pretty much passed on their fleet to their coorporation partners, so by 1939, you probably wouldnt see LMS liveried buses in the area i am modelling (I also havent been succesful in sourcing a suitable model of the buses they owned either). I have seen some nice EFE Leyland Tiger TS8's with various liveries including West Riding and Yorkshire which were introduced in 1938. Would one of these be suitable or can someone point me in the right direction? I dont mind building a kit if there is one available or re-painting a model if needs be. Thank you Ian

PM'd you the full instructions for the kit. Good luck and please post pics of progress! This is the one i built; Ian

I just built one. Will look tomorrow for you. Starting point depends on if u have built kits before or not! Might also be worth requesting this post get moved to the kit building section. Another tip (depending on how accurate you want the model to be) is to get one of the LMS Locomotive Profile books from Swan for the Royal Scot. Helpful with knowing which version you are wanting to portray. Some had Fowler tenders, some had Stanier tenders and several had other small modifications during their lifetime.

Not sure what is available in Germany but this tells you what to use and what not to. https://modelrailwayengineer.com/what-is-the-best-oil-to-lubricate-your-model-train-with-what-not-to-use/

There might be something suitable in this which could be modified http://www.knightwing.co.uk/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?cart_id=&product=Universal_Kits&pid=281

There will be trains one day!!!! Operation isnt my priority yet. Too much fun making stuff!!

Some pics of the new station part of the layout i have been working on since finishing a couple more loco kits (Jamieson Black 5 on Hornby DCC chassis and a SEF Royal Scot). Platforms are made from 18mm ply coated with chinchilla sand, rubbed down evenly then painted with emulsion test pots from Wilko's. Footbridge is a laser cut kit from L-Cut Creative. LMS Fencing is from Scale model scenery. Figures are from various sources and yet to be placed. Barrows, seats and trolleys are Scalelink and another source i cant rememver. Luggage is from Slaters, Merit and some 3d printed ones off Ebay. Lamps are Gaugemaster (formerly DCC concepts design) Terraced houses are Scalescenes modified with Slaters plasticard exterior instead of the paper.

You beat me to it 41516!! I just found that topic and was just going to add it.

You may need to get a book such as this; https://wildswanbooks.co.uk/Books/Midland-Locomotives-Vol3.htm which cover the locomotive you are planning to build. It "may" have drawings or other info which will help identify the parts you may need. I cannot say what this book contains so recommend you search books with the exact class you are looking for and make sure it has drawings. I have other Midland loco books so will look tonight for you. Alan Gibson, 247 Develpoments, Markits are my usual go to vendors for detailing items for loco's. Ian

Here is a pic of the System 2 boards. Top connector blocks are wires coming in from the dcc occupancy detectors. Bottom blocks are going to the leds on the mimic panel.

In the DCC questions topics page i asked about DCC occupancy detectors and feedback modules for hidden sidings and the need to have led's light up on my mimic panel when a loco enters the siding and when i need to stop it in the hidden sidings. I have tried infra-red but lighting levels and adjustments were very difficult to set up on all 6 roads due to the nature of hidden sidings etc. I have reversing cameras set up as well, but they arent clear enough to enable precise stopping of locos before they go too far and impact on merging roads. DCC feedback modules and occupancy detectors commonly found on the market (Roco, Lenz etc) are great if you use a PC or tablet and software to control the layout but they do not have the ability to light led's on a mimic panel. I prefer the tactile approach and still use a mimic panel and switches for point control. The answer came from a discussion with Dave from Megapoints at the Doncaster model railway show in February. I explained what i wanted, and he in return offered me the perfect solution. He was in the middle of developing the Megapoints System 2 boards for marketing after he built them for Pete Watermans layout dispayed in Chester cathedral. Even though they werent on the market yet, he told me what they could do for me and they fitted the bill perfectly. He provided me with 1 input and 1 output board (16 ch), 12 occupancy detectors and 12 blue led's and sent me basic instructions to suit my needs. The boards can do a lot more than just light led's and all will be revealed when he finally markets them. I installed them over the weekend and they work perfectly. I am sure they are expandable as well making them perfect for anyone looking for a similar solution. No links to Dave or his company just a very, very satisfied customer. Here is one of his videos explaining the work he is doing for Pete Watermans layout. Ian

It was possibly Ian Rathbone on the Right Track 3 dvd. He painted lines onto paper then peeled them off and transferred them to the loco for the boiler linings. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224765709712?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2w7lNT9GS8i&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=h-I8RE2kQg-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Ian