Spitfire2865

Its definitely a train on a bridge. What appears to be a Midland 0-6-0 with inside frames, with a train of: loco coal wagon, unknown 5 plank, MR 3 plank, D299, MR brake van, D299, D299, D299, unknown 3 plank, unknown 3 plank, I assume 5x 5 plank PO wagons, 5x 7 plank PO wagons, and a MR 6 wheel brake van. A bit odd the first brake van is following 4 wagons, possibly the first van was from a train that was split and the 5 wagon rake continued in another train? Edit: The first brake van is probably the Kirtley design, and the unknown 5 plank at the front also appears Midland with very faded lettering. That, or a 3 lettered livery with a letter on the door.

The next generation wont have that issue. Unless the new content is way above and beyond todays comprehension.

Arguably, parental guidance and proper education is neccessary to function in any society, regardless of video games.

The problem isnt the game, but those people who possible cant discern between reality and fantasy. Video games give an outlet for those things which would be monetarily, physically, or legally impossible in real life. Thats the joy of interactive visual media, you can do all these things, and satisfy any of those "calls of the void", along with experiencing some sort if aspect of life which is either impossible due to technological limitations, or your own current situation. Its been shown time and time again that video games dont cause normal people to act out the actions in the games, however if someone is particularly off mentally, no amount of anything is going to stop or start any sort of trouble. Humans have always been voilent, horrible creatures, but video games can possibly offer an outlet to those who may find themselves drawn to those kinds of things. A healthy level of disconnect between virtual and real life is very necessary.

Spur 2 is actually Gauge 3, not gauge 2. While translation might work, rebranding of scales between different languages doesnt.

Most recent kit, Tamiya Zero in 1/72. My first experience with canopy masking. Playing with my camera I discovered the cowling has an interesting paint texture, almost like leather.

If you wish to have all track powered at any given time, regardless of point throw, (DCC and recommended Modern DC wiring), you need an insulated joiner at the ends of every frog rail, and feeds for all track sections. Yes its more wiring, but in most cases relying on point blade contact for frog polarity and track power leads to headache later on. If using Peco electrofrog, just make sure you snip the wires connecting the frog to the blades and its recommended to solder feeds from the stock rails to the blades to not rely on physical contact to keep the blades powered. Now you can power the frogs via a double throw switch. I would even recommend fitting power feeds to every individual section of track to not rely on rail joiners for power.

Well that's one way to get your luggage back. Also I like how nowhere in the "other examples" section is India mentioned.

In my experience, ditch the tape and just use a glue stick, spreading liberally over the area which will hold the print. Cleans up relatively easily with a scrub of hot water and soap, if its needs cleaning at all. But yeah, it definitely looks like a level issue, which might be stemming from your use of tape or incorrectly leveling the bed.

Well Ive had a bit of luck at my local hobby shop. Seemingly from someones personal collection/backlog is an old Airfix kit with a copyright year of 1975. Over 40 years old and from a time when the molds were still ok. Half of the dive brake holes have already been drilled so less work for me. Sadly for one of the most famous aircraft of WWII, this is the best kit on the market in 1/72.

Ive had issue with a lot of Amazon sellers who refuse to ship overseas, which is a little surprising considering Amazon doesnt seem as "buyer friendly" as eBay.

Penn isnt THAT bad....ok maybe its a little disappointing, and especially after the past "Summer of Hell", but I find it charming. But yes, Grand Central is very "grand" and has luckily held a lot of its original charm and atmosphere.

Wouldn't it just be easier to use the ballast you have as wagon loads? A piece of card with ballast glued on top can be cut to fit inside a wagon.

The comment at the end "he just hit a car". As if the train crew is at fault.

Now I may only be 22, but damn, would I like to have your eyes!

Definitely bent needle or bad seal.

Well if they are pressfix with lost tack, they can be done as methfix, however I am not aware if IPA would work.

Wow, a photo of a D17A I have never seen before. Though no doubt itll show up in LNWR wagons 3 whenever that gets published.

Cant stand using acrylics, so I stick to enamels. Have never managed a decent finish with acrylic. Ive tried brushpainting certain acrylics and it just does not stick at all, so I avoid it. (Yes I use primer) So the suggestion to "just use acrylics" isnt much help. Besides, with certain brands its less about the colors they have but the quality, especially when it comes to metallic colours or "brushability".

Excuse the multiple pictures. Been busy juggling multiple kits. Firsty, futher work on the Be-2. Managed to finish the wing rigging today and start on decals. Next, a 1932 Ford. Not a fan of my whitewall painting. And a bigger kit, a 1930 Le Mans Bentley.

Now could someone explain why enamels are banned from postage? Because its annoying to be cut off from a few paint ranges Id like to try. I once found an online shop based in Texas that supplied Humbrol...wish I could find it again.

Rubber pad printing. Its used in most manufacturing nowadays. Allows accurate printing on curves and around surface details.

On top of yesterdays kit, I also stopped by a model shop yesterday and found an AModels kit for an interesting prototype. Another Russian interwar biplane, a Beriev BE-2 with snowskates. Been getting a lot of use out of my airbrush. Always need more practice.

Heres something Ive been working on recently. Bandai kits put all other kits to shame with the fantastic part fit.

Id recommend London Road for anyone who can handle an iron. My first two (and only at this point) brass locos are from him and they went together very well. Arguably, I couldve done better, but thats due to my soldering at the time.