Spitfire2865

Ive never gotten along with acrylics. Ill use acrylic for landscaping or large unimportant expanses of colour, but never for detail work. How does one make acrylics work well without either leaving heavy streaks or not adhering to the material.

I believe the distinction is those companies which have "coming soon" or "in development" products also have a reputation behind them. Unlike Kickstarter or such sites where there is a level of anonymity, along with a history of many projects getting 'lost', These sellers which we trust have a history of good products. The likes of Mousa Models, where near half his 'products' are in development, you dont know if itll ever get made, but the deposit isnt much and he is willing to talk to customers and inform them on the goings-on. Not to mention when something is made, its widely praised and sought after. Coopercraft has long passed the point of crowdfunding mystery. His refusal to cooperate and communicate is clear. You choose what to do with your money in the end, but what Mr Coopercraft has done is abuse the goodwill of our community and prey off the ignorance and trickery that is his website.

Just open a window or have a fan going. We use model paints, not overly toxic materials. While its not good to inhale in large quantities, large is magnitudes bigger than a small pot of paint. Some people find the small amount of odor uncomfortable. I personally dont mind it except in certain cases. And there are things in our daily lives that have a significantly bigger chance of killing us than a bit of paint.

Wouldnt mind a modern kit of it. If Airfix can make a modern kit of the Boulton Paul Defiant, they can release that ugly duckling.

Shame as EKB doesnt have much selection of 14ba, and I believe Eileens does not ship to the USA if my memory is correct. Oh well. Ive used screwshop.com before. Very helpful man, and was more than ready to replace an order I thought had gotten lost in the post. Turned out it was thrown in the wrong mailbox!

Always love some Big Clive. Even if most of the electrical stuff goes over my head.

Mind posting any photos of what you have? Ive heard struggles making G3 portable, so Id like to see what youve accomplished with an inch more gauge. What scale is 3.5" usually built to?

Dont give me any ideas! I hardly have room for all the 1/72 Fighters I build, Let alone Germany's monstrosity there.

Oh Ive lost a dozen or so. Im rather careful. Ive found reverse tweezers extremely useful for doing up the nuts. If I may ask, Where do you source your hardware from? Ive found very few sellers online who do BA sizes in bulk quantities. I have one seller Ive ordered from several times, but if he is out on something, it could be a matter of months to restock.

Hot Damn, just what Ive been looking for all my life. And such a reasonable price as well. Surely it will be snapped up quickly if I dont jump on it now.

I use 14ba's in G3. Built similar to how youre doing it. I think the most Ive used at once was close to 500 on a single wagon.

I cant be of much help, but I have to say for scenic modelling, you didnt pick the easiest scale. G3 is almost always scenic, and G5 usually has prototypical rolling stock. Ive never actually seen prototypical rolling stock in 3.5" gauge. For you, it might be a case of making everything yourself.

You use overscale. I use underscale. Edit: Mine is also free, well the cost of my shampoo at least.

That looks great. Are those 12ba fixings?

Youre really getting use out of magnets recently. If I ever get back to building trains, Ill have to have a go at doing that.

Just finished rigging this evening. Was dreading it, and rightly so. Airfix 1/72 Fokker E.11 Eindecker. I managed to do it all in only 11 separate strands. Anyone know a good rigging wire thats around .05mm? Hair is a little too fiddly to work with and doesnt take CA well.

Ive thrown offers to sellers where I wanted two or so of something they offered, figuring one sale of x moneys or two sales of X moneys. Have gotten upwards of 30% on some things. I think the option is good if the seller wants to play, but if they are going to be stiff on their price, there is no point. Ive been to yard sales where the guy there was damn near unwilling to cooperate at all. Makes you not want the item at all in those cases.

A photo would be helpful. Wiring for a chassis is incredibly simple, one rail goes to one side of the motor and the other to the etc etc. Im not sure what you mean by both going to the "positive side of the motor". With insulated wheels both sides, you need wheel pickups on both sides, keeping the chassis as a whole insulated.

A CAN motor is a motor completely enclosed in a casing, as opposed to an open frame motor. Usually, CAN motors are better in the long run due to it being sealed from dirt, grease, grime, etc. Though I cant say anything about the reliability of the motor in the item you are looking at.

On my layout, though 4mm scale with I believe 2mm thick cork, all the points are by wire in tube in slots in the cork. rather tidy, but requires a good bit of planning and measuring to ensure it all lines up. Also, once track goes down you cant fix it if it breaks.

Of what I know, they were too good for the rest of the country. Similar to the downfall of Broad Gauge. Change almost everything or change some things. Conformity was more important than which design was better.

Did you screw down part 14 onto the needle? On my double action that is the only part that directly connects the trigger mechanism to the needle.

Youd think there would be an issue with tape wrapping, but thats honestly the most used solution aside from rewiring. I considered it but the plug end has Lionel moldings on it, so would be lost if I rewire fully. It wasnt falling apart either, just heavily cracked in some areas, but no missing chunks.

Well, a bit off topic. But over the weekend, I stopped by a local yard sale and found this buried in a box under some random tat. And it works fine. The only issues are the red handle is cracked and the cord was old and split (latter was fixed by wrapping in electric tape). And for $5! Less than £4 for those who dont want to convert. I now have a new transformer for the Christmas season.

I dont read this thread every day so I was unaware it was posted previously. All I saw was todays photo and a call for information.