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Spitfire2865

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Everything posted by Spitfire2865

  1. Thats what I normally do for 12V motors, however it doesnt let you observe running characteristics when the wheels are supporting the weight.
  2. That is precisely the drawing I built my D299 to. Of what Ive seen from drawings and prototype photos, the floor was not built to be a part of the body but to sit within the body snugly. Which explains the 2-1/2" plank at the bottom of the ends. Therefore, the entire weight of the end of the wagon was bearing on the end planks rather than the floor or end pillar bolts. The key detail for any wagon is the relationship between solebar and headstock and where the curbrail is placed.
  3. And be sure you watch for revisions. I have a works drawing for an L&Y tintab that was drawn before increasing the height 3" but the dimensions were changed to add those 3".Took me over an hour to figure out why my calculations werent matching up.
  4. According to his profile, he was last active on December 8th. His most recent post(on all threads) was also December 8th. So not sure what thread you are referring to.
  5. Well your thread is quite a bit easier to read than it is to build a wagon! And praise is certainly deserved. Your thread has not only demonstrated proper modelling but been the host to much discussion and spreading of historical information. Wagons look great, though Im surprised how little plank groove there is on the Mousa bodies. It looks almost raised.
  6. Dont trust any drawing thats not for works use. Line drawings are notoriously iffy as has been posted above. However proper professionally drafted drawings should be taken as true unless they have been reproduced by photograph rather than flatbed scanning. Ive turned down offered drawings in the past due to them being photographed. No use in it for me if I cant scale off of it.
  7. Well not modelling exactly, but itll help with things that require oiling for my large scale work. An old oil can I spent an hour this evening cleaning and scrubbing off 50 years of grease, grime, and ceiling insulation.
  8. Remember, when talking of Broad Gauge, everything else is narrow. If you want help with anything to do with broad gauge modelling, I can think of noone better here than BGJohn, however I see he hasnt been active for the past 4 months..
  9. Well perhaps this will help you. A pain to solder up, but if I decide to make some lamps for it, I have functional mounts. Working on those strange door window inserts now. I believe they were sash windows that would drop into the door, but as no photos show glass in place, I dont know!
  10. I have been working from the cutaways. Oddly, all known photos of D21s are on the same side, so I dont know what side the offside lamp socket should be. I could probably try to make the fixed lamp, but then Ill have to cut into the wall. Do you know when were they replaced?
  11. Interior is coming along. I need to get the lamp sockets sorted out.
  12. By that message, it sounds like hes trying to register a new account with his old name rather than requesting a new password?
  13. I wouldnt think a lamp would be allocated to a specific van. Much more likely they traveled around to different routes and vans, similar to how a wagon tarpaulin was treated.
  14. Current Nuclear tech could make that work far safer than in the past 60 years. Plus, it would allow electric traction without considerable infrastructure to power it reliably along many miles in areas less populated such as Middle America, Australia, Russia, etc. Only problem is the past 60 years of poor nuclear planning havent done much to its image.
  15. Problem with that is I dont like drilling metal if I can avoid it. Thats why all my metal parts are either lasercut or etched. Ive also never been very good at hand cutting metal sheet. It wouldve been interesting having it in 1/4 mil stainless though. Would make a strong body.
  16. Oh I considered it, however it would have to be etched. That wouldve skyrocketed the price for my etch sheet. I do regret it a bit though as the extra strength wouldve been welcome. What livery are you painting yours in? Do you know if the footboards were body colour or unpainted?
  17. Well its coming. Interior moving slowly along. Anyone know of any more photos or drawings for the interiors of these vans besides whats in L&Y Wagons Vol 2?
  18. Thanks. Ive since had contact from the Midland study center as well as HMRS whom both have access to the specific drawing I was looking for of the 1377 class. They both did say there would be several weeks until they could access them. Should probably check back with them... Thanks for reminding me!
  19. There is no shame in a tarpaulin. From what Ive examined from my scratchbuilding, the corner plates usually didnt have matching internal strapping for most companies, while the D299 had 5 separate plates inside to match the corner plate outside. Rather excessive if you ask me. Carriage bolts alone seem to have been enough to stop internal gouging on most wagons. So you are correct for most wagons.
  20. Id definitely like to see finescale wagon building in 3.5" gauge. Im doing similar in 2.5" gauge.
  21. For the Slaters D299, remember the slaters kits are smooth on the inside. And for some reason the Midland really went to town on internal strapping for this diagram. Check my workbench thread for my Gauge 3 scratchbuild of one if you need help deciphering the drawings.
  22. My problem with building one is finding the wheels for them in G3. Hope Slaters makes something similar.
  23. Skeh-neck-tedy. I have a friend from around there. Beautiful theatre there as well. As Id be building in G3, there aint anything off-the-shelf for me! Im thinking the Schenectady one simply due to the city. However I do like the 8 wheeled tender and minimal footplate.
  24. Well, Ive ordered the Midland Supplement book from Amazon. Now to decide which loco Id prefer to build, the distinctly American or the strange hybrid.
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