Spitfire2865

What it sounds like from OP, they were Atlas N scale track pins. I had a good number left after a small N scale layout years ago and Ive been using them since to represent rivets in Gauge 3. Strong pins they are, almost nails really. Where are you looking that theyre asking $25 to ship to UK?

That ramp turns a boring warehouse into an awesome factory.

Hey, they have to pay the software licenses somehow!

Regarding the unknown wagons, The L&Y had some 2,3, and 4 planked wagons with center drop doors, all to the same diagram even!

Yeah youll find most NYC stations have beautiful concourses and dingy platforms. At least theyre usually relatively dry. Ive been on one of the subway platforms where a pipe mustve burst in the wall because water was pouring down the wall onto the track.

Looks good. Hopefully soon Ill be able to start on my G3 version of it.

I have a n abandoned inglenook layout which I rather like the trackplan of. It was slightly shortened for a 4' length but would be perfect as 6'. Second link in my signature. An Inglenook often gives good play value but can lock you into a rather unprototypical setup. Mix it up with some aspects un-inglenook-ey and have a reason why it must be operated as such without looking the part.

Since I primarily build goods stock, a mix of greys across the board is a good start. But how I go about paint colors, the Railways mixed their paints by hand with crude measurments in huge batches. If I cant get a near enough color, they couldnt either. Their paint varied day by day, and discolored with age. Near enough is prototypical! Unless like Hendie here, youre going for a specific example in a specific condition.

Id avoid Michaels like the plague. My local one only ever stocked Testors paints and sprays, and in the past few years they have taken them all out of the locked cabinet they were in. Can you guess what the rack and product looks like now? Michaels more often than not has no respect for their own products and will let things be destroyed beyond sellable quality.

Check out Megahobby.com for a good selection of paints. Im in the same boat as you. My local model shop stocks very little in enamel but the whole line of MM acrylic, Tamiya acrylic, Mr Color acrylic, etc. Ive NEVER gotten along with acrylic paints and can never get an acceptable result with them. Ive accepted any decent selection of colors Ill have to order online. Do you have a reference to the cream color you need? Im not knowledgeable regarding Pullman stock.

I know of Ace, Im in the USA too. Id think your problems revolve entirely around decanting aersols. Usually aerosols around here arent purely enamel so thinning isnt simple. Most ive seen are either mostly acrylic or laquer paints, even model aersol paints. Get yourself some proper enamels from the likes of Model Master. Thin to a milky consistency and you should have no issues. Model Master "had" a great range of colors but have cut down in recent years. You can still often find it for relatively cheap. Maybe $4 for a 1/2 oz bottle. Lasts a long time going through an airbrush. Mixes very nicely too. The only downside is their metallics which dont seem to dry very well. If you tell me what colors you actually need, I can tell you the closest you can find in bottles. Or mix to your hearts content.

What brand paint are you using? Ive never had issues like youve described with enamels.

Id think one of the big issues is the lack of anything easily comparable. With something in preservation, you can take all the photos, measurements, and paint samples as you want. For us lowly PreGrouping modellers, we have to make do with sometimes basic drawings, limited photos of varying timeframes, and lacking scratch-aids. Id love to build a CR 670 class as I love the look of it, but I cant find anything better than a basic side view line drawing! Let alone making it to RTR quality levels. No wonder the major manufacturers wont try it.

Not to mention no M1 nuts!

Another American, welcome!

Shame they wont post to USA.

Ive avoided most of the RTR controversy by changing scales to Gauge 3. When there is no RTR, no one is angry about something not being made already. Though it might help I enjoy doing the design work to produce models as much as actually building them.

Very glad to see you have almost completed work. Shame Ive had a scale change, or else Id be ordering one.

Id recommend taking Geens body casting and fitting etched underframes. Of what Ive experienced, his kits are nicely detailed and satisfyingly weighty. Also noone produces what he has.

Whats the part for? Trying to make out whats in the photo.

If you want to try G3 track, which is code 250, check http://www.cliffbarker.talktalk.net/Gauge3Track.html He sells rail alone if you wanted to have a go at laying it yourself.

yes *certain restrictions apply read through shapeways material lists for info.

Id be weary of ever using photos deliberately taken of loaded wagons as proof of practice. Very often those photos were to demonstrate what NOT to do. Look at photos of wagons in any freight yard for typical loading. Davids kits are all whitemetal I believe, not to mention his D333 kit has been in the works for some time.

Not sure what Scale he means. He says 1/32 which is Gauge 1ish (Not going to open THAT can of worms) but then states its G scale (1/22.5 aka Gauge 3)