Mick Bonwick

I doubt very much if you're alone with that view. After all, everything was perfect when it was outshopped, wasn't it? ;-)

Exploring the blog concept with a view to maintaining a record of weathering processes, materials, tools and techniques. Entries will be sporadic and entirely dependent upon time and memory.

As well as making even more coffee than last time, I was able to sneak a mobile phone photograph while nobody was watching. I think. I was amazed at how good the result was - there is absolutely no processing involved here, it is reproduced exactly as taken. I know it's not straight and the tops of the chimneys are missing, but it's intended to demonstrate the ability of the camera rather than the camera user.

That first one looks familiar!

Caution. There's a very real risk of thread drift here. Either that or there's something fishy going on. Do you measure Jamesons with a gill, or is that the wrong scale?

Only if you've got a model of DP2.

Is that because you've just made one yourself?

Shaking the tube doesn't work. It really needs kneading, but that might split the tube, so it's best to expel the liquid - paper towel is good.

That will give it a bit of a lift.

With the Wilder oils you have to ensure that the liquid that forms at the top of the tube is fully expelled before applying the much thicker oil paint itself. Only very small quantities are applied at a time and the brush being used to manipulate the paint must be only damp, not loaded with white spirit. I recommend achieving the 'only damp' status by dropping a couple of drops onto an otherwise dry brush by using a disposable pipette or similar. Resist the temptation to dip the brush into white spirit because it will then be far too wet.

What is the Wilder product that you are using and what are you using it for? The application will dictate the way you use any particular thinning agent.

It was very tongue in cheek. I understand the way that exhibitions work, having attended a few as exhibitor and demonstrator, and would not expect anything like what I was suggesting would ever be seriously considered by any manager, let alone exhibitor. My attempt at humour evidently failed.

From your description I'd guess that was Hobby Holidays. Edit: Horsetan beat me to it!

I wonder what that might be for . . . . . .

Bob, Yes, he did come back, and couldn't understand why it was so dirty!

There were far too many people there who asked far too many questions and prevented me from watching trains. I think that this exhibition should be on for 3 days, 1 of them reserved for exhibitors, traders and demonstrators to walk around and watch each other do their stuff. Discuss.

You can safely put acrylics on top of enamels and vice versa as long as the underlying paint is dried hard. That means at least 48 hours for enamels and 24 hours for acrylics. As Spitfire2865 says, if you're not confident try a test piece first. I'm sure you'll have some scrap material you can use for that.

There are several manufacturers of display cases. Try Picture Pride Displays as a starting point. http://www.picture-pride-displays.co.uk/

Vallejo do a fantastic range of acrylic colours. There might be one which matches the beige of your carpet . . . . . . . . .

RMweb. I can use it for hours on end and never achieve anything.

For modelling purposes you would do well to use good quality brushes designed for use with acrylics. My favourites are from the Daler Rowney System 3 range, but that is purely a personal choice - there are many other ranges that might suit you better. The type of bristles will be determined by the size of your wallet. If you choose sable then your cleaning regime will need to be extremely rigorous. Never leave any residue on the brush at all. Ever. Synthetic bristles are more forgiving, and will stand up to quite harsh treatment. Mixtures are, as you might guess, somewhere in the middle. You don't mention whether these brushes are to be used for general painting, weathering or both, but you can cascade them to avoid unnecessary expenditure. Start their lives off with general painting and then as they get worn, cascade them to weathering fluids and finally weathering pigments. If you have a local artists' supplier or art shop then a conversation with them would help you in your task.

Plonked. Is that one of these newfangled technological terms?

MIG powders ceased to exist under that trading name a while ago. You can now buy the same product under the name Abteilung 502, most of the colours and packaging are exactly the same except for the label on the jar. Several online suppliers now list these products.