Mick Bonwick

Have you tried the Microset/Microsol combination? Softening and setting decals is what they're designed to do, and that's usually what they achieve. Not 100% successful from what you might read on here, but I've never had a failure with them.

Can we please have plenty of notice about the date of the next one? I want to be absolutely sure there's no chance of something else being booked on the same day. Please?

Only if I'm lying down . . . . .

Don't believe everything you read on this forum. Especially if it is written by Bonwick. In all the years I've been using this type of compressor it had never occurred to me that the real purpose of that ring had nothing to do with changing air pressure. I have just been and checked them and found, of course, that you are absolutely right. It wasn't that I disbelieved you, you understand, it was that I needed to see for myself. When you look at the ring closely it is patently obvious that it has nothing to do with anything except panel mounting. What a Wally! I owe you a debt of thanks for putting me right. I expect there are a few others whose faces are a slightly pink colour now that they have read this. . . . . . . .

Backwashing is usually used during the cleaning cycle to remove any small particles that could be clogging the nozzle by blowing them back into the cup, where they can easily be cleaned out. If any such particles are left in the cup and you continue to spray normally, they will just be sent back to block the nozzle again. I admire your perseverance.

The Oilbrusher work is particularly good, Martin. Nice effect.

It might have been better if you asked the administrator(s) before you posted it. They're quite accommodating and would have advised you where best to post it.

You could try writing to him care of Model Rail magazine. He might remember.

The parts most likely to give the trouble that you experienced are 3, 4 and 5 - nozzle, O-ring and needle. It is very easy for dried paint to build up inside the nozzle and prevent the needle from seating properly, and if the O-ring is damaged, however slightly, it will prevent the airflow from sucking the paint from the cup. If you aren't already doing it, I strongly recommend the frequent flushing of the airbrush with cleaning fluid (as opposed to thinners) during your painting session.

You have mentioned the name of the compressor (AS 18-2) but not that of the airbrush. Not having an instruction manual is a common problem with budget equipment. Can you provide a photograph of the airbrush assembled and then completely disassembled so that we can see all the parts? There are many causes of 'little to no paint from the airbrush!'

Thanks for posting this, Doug. I have one of these tools and would not have thought of this.

During the Railex 2017 weekend this was used as an exercise to establish the absolute minimum of materials and equipment required to achieve a basic standard of weathering. One jar of wash, one jar of pigment, one rigger brush, one filbert brush and a can of Testor's Dullcote.

In my experience neat PVA 'grabs' very quickly, although I do agree it takes time to dry completely. The latter is not a problem for me becuase I'm never in a rush these days! :-D For general support when building structures I make use of the excellent magnetic devices marketed by York Modelmaking, together with some engineers' squares. However, none of this intended to detract from your modelmaking - good work.

Why not use PVA?

No John, I haven't done that. The comparison was done in preparation for a Pendon Museum workshop on scenic detailing. The competitors were a Noch puffer bottle, a home-made fly-swat, a Noch Grasmaster 2, a Green Scenes Flock-it, a Peco PSG-1 and an RTS Greenkeeper.

Ah, but he's only done the planning so far. There's still an opportunity!

In my view the fine detail of these figures creates enough shadow around the eyes to render the painting of them unnecessary in 4mm scale.

I have done a comparison between several of these devices for use in demonstrations and workshops. I would not recommend the one marketed by Peco unless you can find a finer mesh grille for it than the one supplied, as Andy Y suggests, especially if you have large areas (greater than 12" x 12") to cover. It does not produce sufficient oomph (sorry to be technical) to make longer fibres (more than 4mm) stand up. Other people may well be satisfied with this. I'm not.

The phrase, 'As you were' is issued as a command at the top of the voice so as to be heard across the parade ground, and should therefore be written in capital letters (to be certain that the recipient understands the serious nature of the offence), thus: "AS YOU WERE!"

It's the observation of the real thing and its accurate replication that gets the results, and that's what it is that you always manage to achieve, Martin. Beautifully done!

You certainly made the most of your opportunity, Colin. Thank you for taking the time and trouble to show us your results, which must be an indication to others of just what can be achieved with the right tuition.

I was at the Salisbury & South Wilts Railway Society's exhibition this weekend just gone, and a very interesting layout I saw there was The Bath & District Amalgamated Fullers Earth Co. If it were not for the fact that I had other things to do I could quite happily stood and watched this being operated for at least 5 minutes. This layout fits just perfectly into the 'cameo' category - I'll let the photographs do the talking . . . . . .

If you're anywhere near Wilton this weekend, come and pay us a visit. http://www.sswrs.org.uk/page44a.html

The second shot is very interesting, Colin. Was that taken when Andy Y was mooning with his camera phone thingy?

More than just presentable, Tony. These show the 'night time' scenes very well. A note for those who weren't able to participate in this workshop - the opportunity to take photographs with the vale scene lights out was offered for the first time and, we think, was very successful. Nobody tripped over anybody else's tripod!